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Blossoms
If yesterday was all about chasing blossoms, this morning I finally caught some! Things are looking up.
I couldn’t face getting up at 5 am after my big day yesterday especially to see blossoms that no longer exist. I was definitely feeling that half empty glass. So I started wandering around 7.30 thinking I would get some breakfast somewhere before heading to my morning destination Shinjuku Gyoen. I decide to walk ( as I do) thinking it might loosen up my aching body… and in keeping with my day yesterday… I get lost… (as I do)… which in my own defence, is very easy to do in Tokyo without Wi-Fi and google maps. So… as it turned out, no breakfast, adding several extra kilometres to the morning and late to the garden. As a result, I am on a bit of a tight schedule now, with my sleep-in, needing to check out of my hotel at 11.00 and my booking on the bullet train to Kyoto. But I really think that an hour in the garden will be enough. How wrong I was.
As a former samurai family-owned-garden-turned-imperial-park, Shinjuku Gyoen is a massive space in the inner city where you can take a breather from Tokyo’s hustle and bustle.
I knew this beautiful park featured over a thousand sakura trees, but imagined they would be like the rest I had seen… well passed their best. Happily, I was wrong! As soon as I entered the garden I could see blossoms! Beautiful, fresh blooms.
There are so many varieties of cherry blossom trees and the sakura in Shinjuku bloom at different times for prolonged enjoyment throughout the season- and there were many in full bloom. Big beautiful fresh blossoms and lots of them. Perfect to satisfy my Sakura-longing eyes.
Not an ethereal pink sea of them but certainly more than I was expecting this morning. Be still my beating heart.
The main Shinjuku cherry blossom route winds leisurely through the grounds of this national garden, with sakura trees along the path. It leads up to open areas with plenty of space where you can relax in the sun admiring the cherry blossoms overhead… if only I had time. I didn’t want to leave but had to get back to my hotel…but will be back for the night illumination after my visit to Kyoto.
My trip on the Shinkansen was just what I needed. These trains are amazing- they look and move like a bullet reaching speeds of 320 km and had me in Kyoto within about two smooth and comfortable hours… gave me time to relax and blog and look out the window at the beauty of the mountainous regional landscape and small traditional Japanese villages… and I wished it were longer.
I arrived in Kyoto… and wow… so many tourists (don’t like so many tourists… even if I am one 😂). It reminded me of Santorini walking down the main street shoulder to shoulder with hordes of people… the perils of over-tourism! And the lines for a taxi felt nearly as long as my airport immigration wait. Eventually I arrived at my hotel… a new experience for me as I had decided “when in Rome”, to stay in a capsule hotel. And it’s actually very cosy and comfy.
As always I was keen to explore my local area. Sometimes the best way to explore a city is to just dive in head-first; no plan, no itinerary, just feet on the pavement, eyes wide and propelled by an unquenchable curiosity and wanderlust. I wandered through the atmospheric mazes of old-style Japanese buildings with their myriad of lanterns, whilst the day turned to evening… the lanterns giving it a magical atmosphere.
I had chosen to stay in Gion, with its shrines, temples and beautiful streets… one of those places where you can immerse yourself in the charming historic atmosphere of traditional Kyoto. Sounded amazing and was… and parts of it, once you venture a little outside the main tourist streets, were like stepping back in time… and it’s easy to get a sense of serenity and authenticity. Give me cobbled streets and picturesque machiya in Kyoto over the modern bright lights of Tokyo any day.
The Gion district was once the largest pleasure district in Kyoto and is known for geisha culture, even today… and you can spot a geisha or geiko as they are known in Kyoto, although it can be difficult to get more then a fleeting glance of these icons (I saw three at different times as I wandered the streets here).
I wander through streets that follow small canals, crossed by picturesque bridges…
…and lined by ancient, majestic weeping willow trees sagging under the weight of their own leaves and weeping cherry blossom trees (the first of this type I had seen)…
…and dotted with fancy traditional restaurants.
This is Kyoto at its picturesque best. On both sides of the main canal, the cobbled streets with their traditional wooden houses and tea houses seem to transport me into the past.
Historic and modern stores on sit side by side and sell everything from hankerchiefs decorated with cherry blossom motifs to pink and white coloured rice cakes and sweets, all trying to capture the beauty of the Sakura season.
Even the post office is adorable.
Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine is one of the neighbourhood’s most iconic destinations.
Standing proudly in its lantern lined glory, it is a popular cherry blossom location (a couple of weeks ago). I have a wander through it’s grounds filled with street food vendors and realise I am hungry… but also realise I have left my purse on my bed back at the hotel. So I rush back to pick it up before heading to Kyoto’s only castle- Nijo…
…that is holding A digital light art exhibition “Naked Flowers” that lights up the entire castle and garden complex.
There is also amazing display of illuminated Sakura.
Time for bed…exhausted again although only walked 18kms today (compared to 30 yesterday) and another early start planned for tomorrow.
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Fantastical Worlds
So I visited these two places yesterday amidst the blossom chasing, but thought they deserved their own blog… because they were both spectacular!
In the afternoon after my walk along the Sumidagawa River, I braved the subway again to see a random exhibition that I had seen on social media… which sounded right down my alley- the Art Aquarium Museum.
This is a modern art space set up on the upper floor of a swanky department store in Ginza that combines light, sound, and fragrance with traditional Japanese culture and artifacts to recall the appreciation of goldfish. Sounds random I know but it was AMAZING!
Here you can find thousands of goldfish (some very rare and unusual breeds that you don’t usually see)…
… swimming in glass vessels of different shapes and sizes and they are illuminated with moving projections and multicolored lights. Each room has a different theme of Japanese culture like origami, lanterns, floral arrangements, bamboo, the red lights district of the Edo period- that plunge visitors into fantastical worlds.
This special spring exhibition of course had the theme of the Sakura including the scent of cherry blossoms. Everything was magical- the goldfish, the sounds, the lights, the atmosphere…living works of art.
Next stop was TeamLab Planets that I have literally wanted to see for years… I had even contemplated flying to Tokyo just to see it. If the thought of going barefooted while climbing waterfalls, being surrounded by floating orchids, chasing Japanese koi carp that turn into flowers when trying to catch them, or even wandering through sparkling crystals in a distant galaxy sound like your sort of thing, then TeamLab is for you. And it certainly is for me!
TeamLab Planets is a museum in Tokyo, full of immersive art installations inviting visitors to explore a world of art through sight, touch, and sound.
Made by teamLab, there are seven sensory-filled artworks that lead you into a sensory- based artistic world accented with lights, water, and sound… closing the gap between art and viewer.
Toshiyuki Inoko created the teamLab project in 2001 in Tokyo. Inoko is a Japanese physicist and mathematician who decided to create a scientists and artists collective to explore the relationship between science, technology, art, and nature. His team comprises more than 500 professionals, including architects, programmers, mathematicians, engineers, physicists, biologists, and artists. Their mission: free the art from its physical realm and transcend borders thanks to digital technology. Go Toshiyuki!
So cool! I loved it so much! It’s all about the experience, getting to walk on water, different textures, and shapes.. and of course colour and light.
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Chasing Blossoms
I kind of feel like I’ve been surrounded by death recently… with the death of a very good family friend not so long ago… both my parents and my only two uncles deaths last year. And of course, working in aged care where death is perhaps expected… and while sometimes a blessing it is still confronting. But when another friend recently passed away, not so much older than me, I was particularly conscious of the fragility and impermanence of life… and how we have to live it while we can. I am always filled with wanderlust, so when I found out I had a week off work at Easter I booked a pretty impromptu trip to Japan to see the Sakura… which has long been a dream of mine.
Spring is a time of renewal, fresh starts and new beginnings, and as a symbol of springtime, the cherry blossom (Sakura) symbolises that beauty, impermanence and transience of life that I’ve been so conscious of lately. The flower has a very short blooming period, only a week or two each season- and the ephemeral nature of the blossoms is seen as a reminder to appreciate the beauty of life while it lasts… to savour the fleeting moments of joy and happiness… and cherish the memories they create.
Sadly the transience of the blossoms did not really work in my favor, with the earliest blossoming ever (hello climate change?) which meant that while I was meant to be here for the the peak blossoming season… it had actually passed. Disappointed is putting it mildly. But there are still blossoms… just not at their peak. So the glass is half full!
So I normally hit the ground running. Anyone who knows me when I travel will know that I suffer hugely from FOMO. I might miss one blossom if I don’t go out. Determined not to miss them before they fall, I planned to head out as soon as I got to my hotel- even if it were 10pm. Not so lucky! Arriving in Japan, it was not the efficient process that I had expected from a country whose trains run to the minute. It took just short of four hours to get through immigration. Then the Japan Rail office where I was supposed to pick up my rail pass was closed so I had to pay for a ticket that I had, in theory already paid for. No direct trains to where I was going and I would have to make a change on this confusing subway system and I was too tired to think about that. So when I got off my first train, I decided to catch a taxi the rest of the way to my hotel. $100 later and I didn’t care… I was just so relieved to arrive… well after midnight. No blossoms for me tonight. And no dinner. Tomorrow had to be a better day.
I set my alarm for 5 am despite that meaning I would only have about four hours sleep. Headed out with a spring in my step to Yoyogi Park which is one of the most famous spots for watching the cherry blossoms and during Sakura season this place is apparently swarming with people. But not at 5am- just a few yoga enthusiasts…
I had imagined watching the soft light shining through the cherry blossom trees- except that there was no soft light, just a general haze. And even worse, the cherry blossoms were few and far between. I wanted to cry!
My very first blossoms Don’t get me wrong, it was a beautiful park… it was just my expectations that were the problem.
There were some blossom trees…just way past their best I then visited the Meiji Shrine to feel the sacred atmosphere of Japanese historical shrines… and apparently a tranquil place to see some sakura in Tokyo. In theory! But no blossoms. I was also looking forward to visiting the inner garden which I believe is so beautiful. But the disadvantage of hitting the road early is that not everything is open. Including the inner garden. The day had not started well.
Sake barrels at Meiji Shrine. The connection between sake and shinto shrines lies in the belief that people get closer to the gods when they drink sake. The (full) barrels of sake are typically donated to the shrines by sake brewers from all over Japan 🤣 I decided to brave the intimidating subway system for my next stop but needed to go the the Japan Rail office to get my pass that I was unable to collect last night. But of course, it was closed. Pay for tickets again that were already paid for and eventually managed to make my way to The Meguro River, which is probably one of the most popular places in Tokyo to admire the beautiful blossoms. The entire river is lined like a promenade with hundreds of weeping pink and white cherry blossoms on both sides, which during peak blossoming cause the canal to become a sea of delicate pink blossoms. But not today 😢
The trees hanging over the narrow river are just so beautiful despite being well past their peak bloom and I loved how the shedding petals drift away in the breeze and into the gentle flow of the river water.
It’s a nice long walk with lots of gorgeous places for pictures. The day was looking up!
It was lunchtime and I still hadn’t had anything to eat since lunch on the plane yesterday so headed to my next destination- the Sensoi Temple…
… with its enormous paper lanterns and huge crowds…
… for some street food from the market there.
Tried some popular local snacks…
… nothing exceptional but it filled the hole and replenished my energy for the rest of the day ahead.
Sakura treats of all kinds are available everywhere at the moment To escape the crowds I walked down to the banks of the Sumidagawa River where once again there are cherry blossom trees everywhere on both sides of the river.
The area features over 600 sakura trees along the riverside path, where you can catch glimpses of one of the most iconic landmarks in Tokyo- the Tokyo Skytree (the second tallest building in the world- 635m) between the blossoms.
From here I headed off for two amazing experiences with light and colour but they deserve their own blog. But after I was finished there, despite being completely exhausted, I found my way to Chidorigafuchi Greenway to see the night illumination of blossoms. This was apparently one of the most beautiful places to see the cherry blossoms… in gardens that were once a part of the Imperial palace. The beloved blooms put on an extravagant and captivating show along the 700m-long walkway along the palace moat. Covered by a tunnel of Sakura trees of different varieties, the walkways are tinted pink by the hundreds of cherry trees and the moat can be completely covered in petals, creating a illusion of an ethereal pink river. It is apparently especially beautiful at night when the night time illuminations light up the trees with the pink glow reflecting back at you. I was excited to see this (especially as I had missed out on the Meguro river illumination the previous night)… but arrived to find out that last night had been the LAST night. Again I could have cried.
Headed back Shibuya way on the subway for a lovely bowl of ramen (my first real meal since the night before I left home) and a hot bath for my tired bones, after walking nearly 30 kilometres for the day.
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Until we meet again
Headed off for the country market back in Evandale to pass some time. Where else do you find fresh cherry pie and see people walking around with big bunches of Waratahs. Would so love to have taken some home 🤷🏼♀️
Then another stunning scenic country drive past mountains, rolling green hills, huge trees with their first bright green buds of springtime, vineyards and blossom laden fruit trees to Joseph Chromy winery for lunch. Since the friend I had stayed in Tassie to see was in hospital, I had decided to come anyway… alone. Not something I usually do (yes I usually eat alone but not in a lovely restaurant) but I had been looking forward to this and thought what the heck!
Do you dine alone? I think it’s something I should perhaps do more often when there is somewhere I want to go and have no one to go with.
Josef Chromy Wines cellar door and restaurant is a stunning location to experience Tasmanian wines and fine cuisine made with fresh local produce. Acclaimed as one of Australia’s top 10, the cellar door is housed in the original 1880s homestead. They even do fun experiences like making your own sparkling wine. I want to do that next time.
I was a little early so wandered their stunning gardens until my booking time. Set among old English gardens and stands of 100-year-old oak trees, and overlooking a picturesque daffodil lined lake, winery and a 61-hectare vineyard (bare now but would be beautiful when in season). The sounds of frogs and birdsong filled the air.
I had a sumptuous lunch of tiger prawns, soft polenta, lemon, chilli, bottarga (whatever that is) and crispy sage. It was heavenly!!! Then wood grilled octopus, saffron excabeche (whatever that is), radicchio, zucchini ghanoush and preserved fruit with pink ling. Again amazing. Awesome last meal before returning our hire car and heading to the airport. Time to go home and back to reality 😂
Had a mouthful before I remembered to take the picture 
Lutruwita/Tasmania… I am so sad to leave. Perhaps one of the most spectacular places in the world… picture perfect! Green and wild spaces linked by heritage streetscapes and thoughtful adaptions. Culture takes many forms and this part of the world has made life’s simple pleasures an art. Here the farm-gate is the local store, nature is the playground and the cellar never runs dry. Yay for Tassie wine!!!
Farewell lush green corners of paradise… picture perfect white sand beaches and open endless blue horizons… orange lichen covered boulders and snow capped mountains… breath taking ancient forests… flowing waterfalls and blue lakes… to the most amazing blossoms, camellias, magnolias, rhododendrons, daffodils and tulips that I could have imagined possible. Farewell to some of the freshest air on the planet… to the places that make you feel like you’re the first person to leave a footprint… to National parks filled with wonders and seaside towns filled with welcome. A gourmet food bowl bursting with the best local wine and produce straight from the source… farm stalls flanked by rich red soils and lobsters plucked straight from the ocean. Lush. Bountiful. Welcoming. Untamed. Generosity and token dairy cows come standard… as do cute, cuddly and curious wildlife.
It doesn’t really matter whether you love trekking into the wilds, sipping on a crisp Riesling or venturing deep into an underground museum, Tassie has something for you.
We take home so many wonderful pictures (those from our cameras and those in our minds that were impossible to capture) and so many wonderful memories shared between friends… and inevitably a few extra pounds.
Tasmania… until we meet again
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How many lichen photos does one girl need?
So I know that some people think I’m crazy. I’m obsessed with moss and lichen and fungi. If you want to impress me, don’t give me diamonds. Take me somewhere where there are gnarled and mossy tree roots…
… the classic, soothing sound of gentle water… a cascading creek that gurgles gently between the undergrowth…
… a flowing waterfall…
… amazing dripping lichens of every shade of green…
… and where a lush green layer of spongey moss blankets the forest floor.
There is certainly some special and powerful energy ju-ju that comes from these ancient rainforests- and I feel the life pulsating and drink the wild air. Here everything is magical.
In these magical fairylands, you find some things that look quite different from plants, trees and animals. They might look squishy…
… crusty…
… fluffy…
… lacey…
…or hairy…
…and they can often be found growing on other plants or trees.
These mysterious life forms might look a bit alien, but they grow throughout earth! They are called mosses, lichen and fungi.
So if you’re a crazy like me… I thought I’d look for an easy explanation of what they are.
Mosses are simple plants. They have small leaves on a single stem. Mosses often grow in groups because being clumped together helps support each plant, and they can gather more water when they work together.
Fungi are neither plants or animals; they are their very own kingdom with over a million species. Unlike plants, fungi are unable to create their own nutrients through photosynthesis, so they absorb nutrients from different materials such as leaf litter, dead wood, trees, and other plants.
Lichen are very fascinating organisms, with approximately 3600 species. They are commonly associated with mosses, but are actually very different. They don’t have roots, leaves, or stems like mosses do. They are not just one, but two living things working together to live! Lichen are made of fungi and algae. The fungi makes the structure of the lichen and the algae photosynthesizes to make the food! And they come in a rich variety of colors, ranging from bright yellow, red, and orange to green, black, brown, silver, and gray.
And then there is just pure aesthetics of these organisms. With their other-worldly qualities, they inspire wonder and creativity for me.
Sometimes I don’t know what they are… and I don’t care. I just love them!
How about you? Do you think I am completely insane 😆
And then there’s the epiphytes… but I think I’ll just stop there…
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Down the Rabbit Hole
As usual I woke way too early and popped my head outside for the sunrise.
After a delicious breakfast of spiced quince oats and truffle omelette with fresh squeezed orange juice and chai/coffee we sadly said our goodbyes vowing to be back again soon.
We drive just down the road to Latrobe to check out the recommended Reliquaire toy and gift store. This is one amazing store, massive…. and comparable to Aladdin’s cave with its trove of treasures with an old world quirkyess. Nutcracker soldier statues standing to attention outside give a slight hint that this will be no ordinary store.
Behind each door or around each corner you might find a hungry life-sized dinosaur, lion or polar bear… a magical Christmas wonderland… or fall down a rabbit hole! It is a gift and gadget paradise with lots of creepy dolls, a handpicked range of candles and skincare, clothing and handbags, jewellery, vintage furniture, games and science toys, puppets, soft toys, baby gifts, cool books, Disney and Alice in Wonderland collectibles, replica Medieval swords and helmets, kitchenware and cookbooks, games and puzzles, wooden toys, puppets, dinosaurs, fairy dresses, Harry Potter and Doctor Who themed areas. It blew my mind! What an incredible, fantastic shop. I cannot fully describe it, you must EXPERIENCE it for yourself.
The staff, who were all amazing, took us down to check out the Alice in Wonderland area, and the “Down the Rabbit Hole” carpet. This is a visual effect that can be unnerving, it truly looks like a hole in the floor… and took some wacky photos of us.
So, what did we buy? Sadly, as travellers with small suitcases we couldn’t buy much although Karen found an antiquey lead light lamp which was something she’d been looking for a couple of years and had it sent home. Me- several kids books. Seriously the best range of lovely kids books I have ever seen. You could easily spend hours within this store, browsing all it has to offer but on a definite timeline with flights to catch later in the day, we had to leave as there was still a couple more quick stops on our itinerary. What a kaleidoscope of joy! A must visit!
We then made a stop at Deloraine. The town might be small- with a population of only 2000- but it is big on character and stands in the shadow of the Great Western Tiers. The historic streets are lined with charming Georgian and Victorian era buildings, cafes, bakeries and art and craft stores.
We passed a park that was so beautiful… with the most amazing blossoms I have ever seen.
And then visited the three monthly country market before driving to Evandale. Like several other small towns we had visited, when you arrive in Evandale you feel as if the clock has been wound back 100 years.
It’s a National Trust classified Georgian village with unspoiled heritage buildings making it a popular place for tourists and easily accessible from Launceston. Clarendon House, just outside of the village, is said to be one of Australia’s greatest Georgian houses.
I then dropped the girls at the airport. And now they have gone back to Brisbane and my plans that were the reason I stayed an extra day have been thwarted by circumstances beyond my control. Feeling kind of sad and lonely and at a bit of a loss at what to do. So visited City Park and walked in the sunshine.
Seems strange to have monkeys in the park and I felt sorry for them having this life in an enclosure… thought we knew better these days although I guess kids love coming to see them.
Then headed back to Windarra for the night
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Saved the best for last
Stanley is an adorable little coastal town and we wished we could linger longer. With its quaint colonial charm, it is no wonder that Hollywood filmmakers chose it as a filming location for the old-fashioned drama ‘The Light between Oceans’ starring Michael Fassbender, Alicia Vikander, and Rachel Weisz.
The town has spectacular views over the coastline on both sides of town and there’s certainly no better place to enjoy them than from the top of the Nut. The good news is- we didn’t have to literally climb it… we cheated (only because we were time restricted 😂) and took the chairlift to the top.
Once on top, with the wild and woolly Roaring 40s in our hair we walked the easy, well-made trail that circles the ‘plug’ and gives excellent views from several lookouts. It goes without saying that the 360-degree views of the coastline were mesmerizing.
Short-tailed shearwaters- also known as mutton birds- love the secluded nature of the plateau and thousands have made their home here at ground level. These incredible birds spend their days at sea and return to their nests after nightfall and fly as far as the Artic every year, before returning to The Nut to breed.
From Stanley, we headed to the magnificent plateau of Table Cape to add some more flower power to our trip… with more stunning scenery on our journey…
…and deers…
… before arriving at Table Cape. Sitting at 180 meters high, this extinct volcanic vent dominates the coastline close to Wynyard a little like The Nut does in nearby Stanley. The volcanic soil on the cape grows a variety of crops and is regarded to be the richest agricultural soil in Tasmania. Its dramatic cliffs drop away into the Bass Strait, with Table Cape Tulip Farm perched at the top.
We had all been really looking forward to this day since I had discovered that the tulips would be blooming while we were in Tassie… and we were blessed with a stunning spring day. Apparently they are the largest tulip fields in the Southern Hemisphere that you can actually wander in, and so each Spring, when the rainbow of tulip fields explodes with joy and colour, people like us come from far and wide to see the spectacle. From a distance it’s like a patchwork quilt, but up close you start to see row upon row of colour stretching to the horizon. While not all were blooming yet, we delighted in tip toeing through the tulips and taking a million pictures.
We then headed for our final nights stop- The Truffledore… nestled in the foothills of Cradle Mountain and Mount Roland, it offers a little slice of truffle heaven. My beautiful friend Anne’s son Tim and wife Ina welcomed us to their stunning B&B to experience a little of their life on the boutique truffle farm… meet the animals… enjoy the beautiful scenery and unwind in the country tranquillity.
The Truffeldore offer’s black winter truffle and truffle products, tastings, a range of farm to table food experiences, tours and events, as well as farm stay accommodation. The converted barn now operates as a cookery school, farm gate, function centre and a place to discover and taste all things truffle.
In truffle season (June-August) they offer small group Hunt & Harvest tours, which are a four-hour experience that includes a tour of the truffiere with their harvester and truffle dog to see firsthand how they find and harvest their black truffles, followed by a four-course lunch lavished with fresh truffle! Sounds like a fantastic experience… pity we weren’t here in the right season. This place is amazing and what Tim and Ina have created is quite exceptional! Just another reason to return to Tassie!
We had the most awesome night in the restaurant. Tim made fresh goose egg pasta and gave Sue the opportunity to help him.
Combined with prawns, confit garlic, chilli and truffle oil- with grated cured goose egg on top. Absolutely delicious! Lots of conversation and fun and laughter (especially with Sue’s pasta making skillls)- just us, Tim and Ina and her parents who were visiting from Germany. What an experience… and a memorable last night.
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Watch out for that dinosaur
We have a late start this morning and amazing breakfast before leaving our amazing wilderness retreat heading north. Once again we drive through beautiful scenic countryside dominated by rich vivid green farming land dotted with cows and sheep and tiny flower lined roads through gorgeous villages… with cute little churches. It’s a long drive but all of it is lovely.
Our only stop today before our final destination is Trowutta Arch- a little off the normal tourist route but I had seen pictures and it looked worth the drive. This is our last rainforest visit and from the minute we walk in it is breathtaking .
After being lost in the wilderness the previous day, the graded pathway with a wooden border clearly defining the way was very welcome to us.
This forest doesn’t have quite the untamed wilderness feel of some of the other Tasmanian temperate rainforests we have seen but is still such a beautiful walk full of stunning scenery with huge Blackwood trees, myrtles and sassafras. But it’s the giant man ferns that dominate the landscape… the hugest ones I’ve ever seen. These majestic ferns create a much more open and airy feeling by allowing more sunlight to penetrate through their delicate fronds.
There are amazing tree roots and many fallen trees all covered in a blanket of thick green moss, adding to the beauty of this walk.
And of course, lichen and fungi.
The forest feels ancient and somehow like we’d strolled into Jurassic Park and I kept expecting a dinosaur to come running round the corner
Who’s that hiding underneath the tree roots? We wander through this stunning rainforest and it leads us to another world… a set of beautiful, still, vivid green, algae covered ceynotes, framed perfectly by a tall arch… the remnants of an ancient cave. The roof of the cave fell in leaving a section between two sinkholes. Wow! It’s prehistoric wonderland meets outer space.
As you walk through the arch your world changes from a sea of greens to a jagged wall of limestone that surrounds the ever so still, deep, murky water (apparently some 20m deep according to the sign).
If we had been looking for a place to swim, this wouldn’t be it… it seemed like it would be the last swim you’d ever take if you jumped in as you’d be taken by some huge dinosaur crocodile or monster.
Looking back once inside the cave the view was incredible with the light shining through the tree ferns and framed by the arch. Absolutely amazing!!!
We then head for Stanley where we are spending the night… located on the northwest coast of Tasmania. As you drive into the pretty village of Stanley, you can’t miss the enormous cliff edged and ancient volcanic ‘plug’ of rock on which it sits- called “the Nut”. Think a giant geological feature that rises 150 metres out of the water dominating the skyline of the small town. The Nut is one of the biggest attractions for visitors with the summit being reached by either a thigh-busting walk (2.9km circuit loop- 45-60mins) or by taking the chairlift that soars 95 metres above the ground. But that’s hopefully for tomorrow depending on weather.
We take a walk around the perfectly preserved colonial town with cute-as-a-button cottages, stately buildings, quaint boutiques, and cozy cafes… every single building is beautifully kept!
I continued on to the fisherman’s wharf which reveals the true heart and soul of this beautiful town. Fishing boats, lobster catching pots and the crystal clear water of the Bass Strait.
I then followed the Wharf road all the way to the end to the base of The Nut, where the rugged rock meets the water…
… and then walked around the waters edge as the sun began to set.
We had been warned that in Stanley, dining options are few and without a booking you would go hungry… so we had booked weeks ago and enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner. I had been craving a good seafood chowder since arriving in Tassie and got my wish here with definitely the best I have ever eaten. Yum! I so wanted the frangelico crème brûlée but just couldn’t fit in in 😩
We then, despite the weather having turned into a rainy gale, went out hoping to see the penguins that Stanley is known for. The Tasmanian coastline is true penguin heaven, with an estimated 110,000 to 190,000 Little or Fairy penguins living on the Tasmanian mainland and offshore islands
We headed for the designated penguin watching platform at the end of Godfreys beach and saw some in the light of our headlights before we had even parked our car. The platform is equipped with red lights that allow you to see the penguins in the dark without harming the birds. As nocturnal birds, penguins are very sensitive to bright light and will avoid it at all costs.
Adult penguins spend their days feeding at sea and return to shore at night, where their chicks are waiting for them. And this is how you watch them… waddling up the beach. They are quite noisy and even when we couldn’t see them we could hear them. Difficult to see well with the red lights and hard to get good pictures and as we were getting soaked, we didn’t stay long before heading home.
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The three billy goats gruff
Nestled high in the alpine reaches of the UNESCO Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, Cradle Mountain is a natural wonder. There are ancient pines within emerald-green forests, dramatic mountains, majestic lakes, and tumbling waterfalls to be discovered. We expected it to be cold here- the coldest part of our trip. It had even snowed within the last week and there was some snow on the mountain. We rugged up accordingly… beanies, scarves, puffers… and lots of layers. I briefly thought about putting on a tee shirt as one of my layers but thought I was being unrealistically optimistic even though it was a perfect day- probably the best of our entire trip with virtually not a cloud in the sky to start.
As we had very little time here, the obvious choice was to walk one of the jewels in the park- Dove Lake. We parked the car at the tourist information centre to catch the shuttle. After a quick pit stop, I realised I had left my phone in the cubicle but by the time I got back there, it was gone. Ominous sign for the day? But I’ll get to that later. Much later.
Dove lake is a stunning reflective glacial lake when you see it on a clear day… which we were lucky enough to do. Jagged prehistoric-like peaks protrude from ancient rainforest which reflect dramatically in the midnight blue of Dove Lake. It is clear why this area of outstanding natural beauty is the most popular outdoor attraction in Tasmania and by far one of Tasmania’s most beautiful walks.
As we traversed the 5.7 km trail below the towering, craggy spires of Cradle Mountain…
…we came across the impressive Glacier Rock…
…lakeside beaches…
… the moss-covered Ballroom Forest full of myrtle-beech trees draped in dropping lichen…
… and the dilapidated historic 1940’s-built King Billy Boatshed.
Native Tasmanian wildlife is everywhere… and we did see a few gorgeous fluffy moving rocks… otherwise known as wombats.
As the morning progressed, we gradually stripped off our layers, how I wished I had listened to my earlier optimism.
But despite how amazing the walk was, for me, it was still all about the forest (I know, I know- eye rolling all around). I’m sure everyone is sick of my verbose descriptions of the forest… but suffice to say we were all frothing once again.
After lunch at Cradle Mountain Lodge, we headed back to Lemonthyme Lodge to do another walk I had found in my research. Hidden among spectacular rainforest commencing from where we were staying are two breathtaking waterfalls – Champagne Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Supposedly an easy to moderate track, we knew we were pushing it to finish before sun down.
We headed off and didn’t bother registering our walk. Wrong choice. Right from the start the girls were ‘gruff’ and whinging as we walked up and up and up and the 4WD track was relentless for about 1.5km. Trying to be upbeat, I’m laughing and saying “adventures with Ange”. Little did I know how much of an adventure it would be.
We finally find the turn off for the falls thinking it would be easier from here- and downhill… and we are cheering. Finally! The track is a circuit so, in theory it doesn’t matter which waterfall you visit first. We chose to do Bridal Veil first. Wrong choice.
Along the way we passed the most incredible forest of giant myrtle trees, the largest ones I’ve ever seen… and then the track descended sharply for about 200m and we arrive on a bridge spanning the river. Here we were greeted with the most spectacular waterfall. The falls themselves reach to around 20m in height and are an awe-inspiring sight when the river is full of water, which it was.
To the righthand side of the falls is a small track, and we walked up behind the falls themselves to peer through the curtain of water. Treacherous, slippery and muddy- a sign of things to come!
Continuing on from Bridal Veil falls, the track winds its way through the forest.
Myrtle and sassafras trees dominate the landscape, with tree ferns and all the things we love… moss, lichen and fungi.
The forest is dense yet serene and very beautiful but the track is steep, uneven and muddy and gets smaller… and smaller.. and smaller until there is virtually no track… a billy goat track. Gnarly roots everywhere try to trip us up…
…and we stumble and slip and slide in the water and mud grabbing anything we can to stop ourselves falling. We could imagine we were the first people to ever visit this place… like the pioneers we heard stories of on our train journey yesterday… except thankfully there were orange ribbons tied to the foliage periodically to mark the track.
It was all kind of funny… until it wasn’t. We were laughing… but it was nervous laughter. Light was starting to get low.
Eventually we reached the turn-off for Champagne Falls and we were thankful that we must be nearing the end. Wrong. The treacherous track just got worse… so steep and like a mud slide with spots where the the ground gave way under our feet. I was struggling at times and feeling guilty as I knew the girls would be even more… we thought about just sliding down on our butts as by this stage we were pretty covered in mud. But that was now the least of our worries.
Finally reaching the bottom, the track opened up into a small gorge. Champagne Falls is a spectacular waterfall, surrounded by towering black cliffs, beautiful green vegetation and large rocks at the bottom.
But we now can’t find the continuation of our track so the falls becomes an insignificant focus and we start to panic a little as we contemplate spending the night in the forest (potential 6.00pm news flash- three women in their 60s lost in the Tasmanian wilderness… with no water (by this stage) and no food (except jellybeans) 😂
We realise we need to go back the way we came as at least we know there is a path there… but we also know that we would never get all the way back before dark. We start to try to scramble up the muddy slide which was difficult enough on our way down but virtually impossible to get up. We pull on branches and tree roots and eventually get back up and then have to scramble over an enormous mossy fallen tree… and Sue finds another orange ribbon. Relief! We thank God as we are now back on track. But light is fading fast and we are exhausted and we know there is still quite a long way to go. Karen’s levels are dropping and she’s feeling shaky which is potentially a big problem (hello diabetic coma). We stop for her to eat some jellybeans and then keep pushing back up the steep track until we finally make it back to the road for the still long walk home. A challenging afternoon to say the least but a big adventure we will likely tell stories about for a long time. Nothing like getting lost in the wilderness… Adventures with Ange 😂
PS- I did get my phone back- some lovely person handed it into the tourist office
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Triumph and tragedy
Today we stepped back in history to climb aboard a majestic Heritage train which journeyed through time, deep into the heritage of the wild West Coast, where tales of resilience and triumph showcase the iconic local spirit.
But first we started with a delicious breakfast and the best chai I’ve had since arriving in Tassie (I seem to have converted Sue away from coffee to chai as well) in the tiny “Coffee Shack” before heading off to the railway station. Funnily enough we were actually staying at ‘Station House’ BnB right across the road from the station.
Travelling in the exclusive Wilderness carriage provided us with a more luxurious experience… a little more space and a carriage balcony to allow us to immerse ourselves into the wildness and have unrestricted viewing & photo opportunities. Yay! We start with a glass of Tassie sparkling wine or and enjoy a series of small meals served throughout your journey (salmon and caviar canapés, scones with jam and cream, sweet potato, carrot and caramelised onion soup and homemade gin and pepper berry chocolates). And more wine!
The West Coast Wilderness Railway carves its way through Tasmania’s rugged western wilderness and ancient rainforest and took us to wild locations otherwise inaccessible. The train runs a 35-kilometre track between the towns of Queenstown and Strahan, retracing the steps of colonial loggers and miners and is of important historical significance for the area. Constructed in 1896 to transport ore from Queenstown’s mines to Strahan’s port, the railway was deemed impossible by many, who said this part of Tasmania was far too wild with enormous mountains, deep valleys, and seemingly impenetrable forest standing in the way.
During the journey, our guide told us some of the incredibly challenging stories of the railway… of triumph and tragedy and the resilient people who lived and worked along its length. Stories of the men who laboured to build the line… breaking through the rock by hand and through the cold damp wilderness forest too thick to swing and axe, in one of the wettest places on earth. And stories of those who kept the trains running… to the families and children that made a life in the forest…. and the two visionary Irishmen whose fierce rivalry and undaunted ambition, that combined with innovative engineering designs, brought the railway to life.
The railway is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Tasmania and 3 of the 5 original locomotives used on this fascinating 1897-built railway are still in operation.
We stopped at Lower Landing on the edge of the King River, and Dubbil Barril where you could watch the locomotive being turned by hand before the return to Strahan. Here we also did another unbelievable forest walk to see the incredible wilderness Huon pine, giant tree ferns and other native forest species… before heading back to Strahan. Another wonderful experience and would thoroughly recommend.
From the train we head straight to Cradle Mountain where Jo is leaving us to join her family in Launceston. But just before she does, we have our first ‘close’ encounter with a wombat. So cute. They have teddy bear faces.
We then completed the delightful Enchanted Forest Walk which was recommended by my brother who was here not so long ago.
It meanders through clumps of buttongrass and bearded trees, magical, mossy old-growth rainforest… where a cascading creek gurgles gently between the undergrowth…
… and a bright green layer of spongey moss blankets the forest floor…
… complete with wombat burrows, amazing dripping lichen and fungi.
It’s a short walk but there is perhaps no more perfect name imaginable for this place. Beaneath a light dusting of glimmering raindrops, this forest boardwalk was like stepping into a fairyland.
It is difficult to keep trying to find greater and greater superlatives to describe the beauty of what we have seen and felt. But this one was very special… And we breathe it in (although there is still no sign of the elusive platypus which inhabits the inky pools amongst the forests).
The beautiful walk finishes with a view over Pencil Pine cascades where the creek falls about 10m over a wide ledge into a deep pool.
We finish the day at our cute little wilderness cabin at “Lemonthyme Wilderness Retreat” where we have a delicious dinner and feed the pademelons before retiring for the night. Two big walks coming up tomorrow.
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 