• Dragons Rock

    After a very long travel day that included on-time trains… delayed trains… trains that terminated before they were supposed to and left us having to use local buses… grumpy people not helping us with the trains and lovely people helping us with the trains… more delayed trains… and Rhine River castles and vineyards out the windows of trains… we finally navigated our way successfully to Königswinter to meet up with Anne’s family for pre- wedding celebrations. Better late than never.

    The charming wine-growing town of Königswinter is known for its picturesque scenery along the Rhine river and its rich cultural and historical heritage. Today we had the opportunity to experience the sights and sounds of the Rhine river on a half day cruise organised by Ina’s family who live in the town. Despite waking to a very dull and cool day, we were confident it would improve as the day went on. After boarding our boat, we relaxed together chatting… drinking a cocktail…

    … and taking in the scenic panorama of the majestic castles, churches, and vineyards along the shores of the Rhine.

    Dracenfel ruins can be seen on the top of the peak and Schloss Dracenburg further down the slope.

    We then explored a few of the towns charming cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses and quaint shops…

    … as we walked to the station to ride the oldest cog railway in Germany…

    … up to the Drachenfels (Dragon’s Rock), featuring the ancient ruins of Drachenfels Castle on the cliff…

    …overlooking the Rhine Valley’s magnificent views. On a clear day, apparently you can see all the way to the towers of Cologne’s Cathedral but it was still quite hazy so that wasn’t possible. We sat and had a drink and bite to eat admiring the panorama.

    Afterwards we walked down to the Schloss Drachenburg… a modern and impressive interpretation of a castle three-quarters of the way up the slope.

    This ‘Fairytale castle’ is in a stunning location with amazing views, with beautifully tended gardens…

    …and tastefully decorated interiors.

    During WWII the castle was damaged by allied bombing but was eventually restored and listed as a monument. Apparently It has had numerous private owners, each leaving an eccentric twist on the castle (think potential Zeppelin landing pad, amusement park, and 1970s disco parties).

    A lovely dinner followed at a local restaurant as more travelling friends and family arrived for the coming celebrations. Tomorrow we head to Bad Ems… the location for the wedding.

  • Whimsy and Splendour

    It is hot. And I have nothing to wear. Not that I am really complaining about the amazing Indian summer weather we are having but the top temperature during our trip was supposed to be 20-21°… and it is 29°! And I have nothing to wear. And yes, it could be a good excuse for shopping, but I have no room in my bag… and everything in the shops here is for the coming winter or traditional Bavarian costumes. Not really my thing!

    Anyway… we headed from Füssen to our new destination- Rothenburg ob der Tauber. I was pretty excited about this town as it is probably one of the most famous small towns in Germany, particularly known for the wall that surrounds it and is considered to be Germany’s best-preserved walled town. And I love walled towns! Possibly Europe’s best example of medieval glory, with charming fairy-tale spires, ingenious fountains, and neo-Gothic churches… it sounded like my perfect place. And it was!

    Oh my gosh you guys… This place was lifted straight from the pages of a fairytale. So colourful! So charming! So picturesque!

    Whimsy and splendour! Frozen-in-time, pretty cobblestone lanes, intact ramparts, turrets, stone archways, clock towers, taverns and medieval architecture- including beautiful half-timbered houses as well as leafy views from all sides. It was the inspiration for the village in “Pinocchio” and a filming location for Harry Potter. Lots of tourists come with the enchanting territory, but even crowds don’t dim the shine. It is literally ‘picture-perfect’.

    With some train delays, it was quite late in the day when we arrived at our sublimely cute little hotel after dragging our bags over the cobblestones for quite a way from the railway station.

    So we had a quick general wander and I was constantly oohing and aahing at this seriously magical place- in fact I was feeling some anxiety due to my excitement and I know Thats probably a bit weird. But anyway? Decided it was wine o’clock and found a gorgeous little bar/restaurant with overflowing flower boxes…

    … right at The Plönlein which is supposedly the most charming spot in town. This is one of Rothenberg’s most iconic streets and it’s most famous photo opportunity.

    We then made our way to the old but beautifully preserved 14th century stone fortification walls that surround the town… (with no less than 40 towers and six gates)… much of which you can walk on… for fantastic views of the old town centre…

    … and ambled the 2.5 kilometres as the sun went down… bathing the surrounding lanes and alleyways with their half timbered houses and gardens in a rich, warm light. So cool!

    By this time we were definitely ready for dinner, so wandered around looking for somewhere to eat until we arrived at the centre of the town- the Marktplatz or town-square with its giant Town Hall, grand staircase, Renaissance facade and surrounding romantic timber-frame buildings. It is absolutely stunning.

    On top of that, we have two young, incredibly talented musicians were playing their violin and accordion for quite a large gathered crowd who were chilling, drinking and soaking up the atmosphere. We joined them and luckily nabbed a rare seat in a restaurant. Felt so incredibly blessed by this amazing evening.

    I rose for sunrise as usual and wandered around enjoying time without the tourist hordes…

    … and eventually made my way to the town square… then climbed the tower to get the best view of the town. It’s a long way up… 220 steep and narrow steps and 52 meters to be exact, but I always want to climb to the highest point everywhere I go, despite the fact that I am scared of heights. It’s always worth it- and I found myself at quite an impressive height with an even more impressive 360-degree panoramic view over the old town.

    We spent the rest of the day strolling around the town and visited the Käthe Wohlfahrt Christmas Village where Christmas, or at least Christmas shopping is a year- round season. It’s pretty hard to put into words but with apparently over 1000m2 of Christmas baubles, nutcrackers and Christmas trees, it sparkles at every corner and as a big Christmas lover, I was totally into it.

    We then picnicking in the peaceful Burggarten, which literally translates to “Castle Garden”… which is a bit of a hoax as you won’t actually find any castles here in Burggarten. A few centuries ago, maybe, but not today. Nevertheless, this garden is one of the most romantic places in the entire town and has a stunning view of Rothenburg and the surrounding countryside.

    Later… we sat in the lively Town Square once again for dinner and a lovely sunset…

    … before a final evening walk through the now quiet town. There is no apparent night life here as it is not overly well lit so after dinner most head home.

    We are moving on tomorrow and will be sad to leave this gorgeous little town but so glad I had the opportunity to visit.

  • The King of the castle

    So I feel like literally EVERYONE has been in Europe this past summer. Every time I open up my newsfeed, it is full of amazing pictures of people I know enjoying some stunning location. And I’ve been soooo envious… but I knew my time was coming. So here we are- six lovely weeks in Europe with my precious friend Anne.

    While I have heard that Munich is a fabulous city, my choice will generally be to quickly move out of the major cities to the smaller towns. I’m sure if we’d stayed the night and walked the old town it would have been a blast, but straight from the airport we boarded the train and headed for the fabled ‘Romantic Road’… only a couple of hours’ train ride from Munich.

    Packed with turreted fairy-tale castle studded valleys, built by mad kings, along with grand palaces, historic cities and medieval walled towns where flowers spill from balconies of timbered homes, rolling vineyards basking in the sun and lake studded countryside sparkling against towering mountains… the Romantic Road really lives up to its name.

    After about 38 hours travel, we arrived in our first destination… exhausted but ready to explore. Our first couple of days are in the gorgeous setting of Füssen- a picture perfect 700-year-old medieval town nestled amongst a cluster of majestic mountain peaks and an idyllic lake landscape… with a sparkling turquoise river that runs through its centre. It could never fail to captivate anyone.

    The first stop on any trip will always be exciting and from the moment I stepped onto its cobblestoned streets, I loved it. The quaint centre of this 700-year-old town is truly a delight to stroll through. It has centuries-old streets and buildings and walking around, we stumbled upon baroque churches, gothic houses, a medieval town wall, and even a castle right in the middle of town.

    The facades of the buildings along the streets and lining the river banks are coloured in all sorts of wonderful pastel shades, making it a dream to photograph.

    And of course there are cobble-stoned alleyways. And flowers everywhere. And I love cobblestones and flowers!

    Unbelievably, this little town has not one castle, but two. Perhaps the singular showstopper of the whole Romantic Road is Neuschwanstein, a dramatic castle with towering turrets floating against an equally stunning landscape of craggy mountains and piercingly blue lake. The ‘mad’ King Ludwig II’s reign was defined by a love of art history and architecture, the latter of which included the construction of several great fairytale castles, including this one that was so fantastical that Disney modelled Cinderella’s castle after it. This earned him the nickname Märchenkönig, or the fairytale king. These construction projects cost vast amounts of money; money that King Ludwig did not have. The borrowing caused bankruptcy and the eventual removal of Ludwig from his monarch’s perch.

    Ludwig was an intriguing and tragic person… certainly eccentric, reclusive and emotional, and increasingly out of touch with the political realities of his diminishing kingdom. He was just 18 when he became king of Bavaria in 1864, utterly disinterested in politics and rather than live with the frustrations of a modern constitution and a feisty parliament reining him in, he spent his years living in a dream… lost in Romantic literature and operas… hanging out with the composer Wagner, with who he was obsessed… (or perhaps in love), as only a gay young king could… even financing his whole life and career.

    Loved by his people, but hated by his ministers, his heritage is more about culture than of great victories in battle. He was declared insane in 1886 and deposed. Neuschwanstein would also be his last place of residence before he was taken to Berg Palace on the banks of Lake Starnberg. On June 19, 1886 he mysteriously died in the lake. To this day the circumstances surrounding his death are unknown. Was it an accident while Ludwig was trying to escape, was it suicide or even murder by his political opponents? And sadly, the construction work was not completed until after his death.

    I wanted to see this beautiful castle at sunset, so hopped on the bus to the nearest village to catch the shuttle up to the castle… only to find that they had stopped for the day and we’d have to walk 40 minutes up the steep, rocky goat track to see it. Exhausted, having had basically no sleep for two days, this was not ideal, especially since the last bus back to Füssen was not too far away. So I pretty much had to run up and back (my poor body) if I wanted to to see it. And I did… and it was worth it.

    Hohenschwangau castle- Neushwanstein’s less famous cousin

    Afterwards we went to a lovely little character filled old wine bar that we had noticed earlier while wandering, where we enjoyed a delicious antipasto and a glass of wine and then headed to bed.

    After a well-deserved great nights sleep I was awake early and decided to go for a sunrise walk along the river. Simply stunning as the sun rose above the mountains and turned the mist to gold.

    We then headed off to the Tegelberg cable car for another stunning view of the ‘mad’ king’s castles.

    At the top we were greeted with panoramic views over the stunning Bavarian landscape… which was also a very popular spot for paragliding (not on my plan this time).

    Our plan was to walk down but after looking us up and down, we were strongly advised not to attempt it. Not completely sure if this was an ageist judgement or the fact that we were not wearing actual hiking boots and had no hiking poles but we decided to listen to the advice and cable car’d down again. At the bottom we discovered the next bus was not for two hours so we joined a lovely young American couple and wandered through the stunning green countryside…

    … to the nearby Alpsee where we walked around the crystal clear blue lake…

    … (which took much longer than we anticipated) for more stunning panoramic views of the castles.

    If we had swimmers, it would have been very tempting to jump into the freezing water but didn’t think anyone would appreciate two naked sixty-something years olds disturbing their serene lakeside relaxation.

    Just loving all the traditional Bavarian homes and hotels with window boxes full of cascading displays of colourful flowers.

    Decided to visit Lechfall on my way home… a man-made waterfall not too far from our apartment. I walked along the turquoise river Lech to reach the falls and somehow managed to get lost… and again on my way home 🤷🏼‍♀️. The gorge and falls were beautiful and well worth the short walk with a wonderful panorama view of the colourful waters of the Lech River seemingly held up as a lake just upstream of it.

    We had somehow managed to skip lunch so with all the walking today (17kms for me) we were starving and headed out early for some delicious traditional German food before an early night. A new destination beckons tomorrow. Stay tuned…

  • Unique and pretty crazy… even alien

    So I’ve been home for a few days now and thinking about my time in Japan. Lots to think about… and some of it quite conflicted. What an amazing destination! Unique and pretty crazy. On many levels. Japan has it all, blossoms, sacred temples, mysterious mountains, sushi, anime, fantastic combination of science, technology and art, extraordinary street fashion, and people, lots of people everywhere. And did I say blossoms? You can be pretty much shocked and amazed all the time. I have been to about 50 countries, but so far I think Japan is the most surprising and unique of them all. Certainly nowhere else will you see a girl dressed in kimono being served by a robotic sales assistant. Here, even taking the subway becomes a hectic intense adventure… as does navigating the famous pedestrian scrambles.

    But perhaps because it is over the top, unique… even alien, I found it the most physically and mentally exhausting trip I have done. And yes, a lot of that is my own fault… not knowing my limits (or overestimating them)… walking 125kms because of the FOMO I suffer from when traveling. But partly my exhaustion is because it is just so hectic! At least Tokyo is. Tokyo in some ways blends the traditional and modern culture of Japan, but it’s technology and skyscrapers overshadow it’s quiet side. And in the end, I know I am not really a big city girl. I find it exhausting… and at times overwhelming. When I travel, I do like the smaller, authentic places and the road a little less well travelled.

    And I had been feeling some anxiety about this trip even before I left home… it’s been a while since I travelled overseas… and I was traveling solo. Not that that is a new thing… and I know that much of my future travel will be alone. Don’t get me wrong- that’s not necessarily a bad thing but there is certainly anxiety that goes with it… having to make ALL the decisions… and so often rely on the kindness of strangers.

    So would I go back? A million times yes. Perhaps planned a little differently… or at least knowing what to expect. Perhaps with a companion… someone to process the experience with? And I want to see the autumn leaves next time as I believe that Japan puts on a spectacular show… something I have never seen before.

    But it’s a little unpredictable as nature doesn’t always abide by a strict schedule… as I well found out this trip with the Sakura. Was I disappointed with what I saw? Yes and no. The blossoms were so beautiful but I still didn’t get the full Sakura experience from my dreams… that I would have had I been a couple of weeks earlier.

    I never experienced one of the canals covered by a tunnel of hundreds of sakura trees becoming a sea of delicate pink blossoms… almost completely covered in petals, creating the illusion of an ethereal pink river…

    … with the walkways around them also tinted pink. This had been one of my dreams…

    … as was traveling on the Romantic Railway.

    I missed the main night time illuminations that light up with a pink glow reflecting back at you as you row or stroll along.

    And I didn’t get to see one of the huge single weeping cherry trees that can be hundreds of years old… some even over 1000… natural monuments… their heavy old aged branches supported by wooden poles… quite similar to us who need support from others at old age.

    But none of that takes away from the beauty of what I was privileged to see. I particularly loved the ‘cherry blossom snow storms’… when the pink petals are blown off by the soft winds, it is gorgeous sight to see them rain all over you and everything around you.

    A few other plans never eventuated as there are only so many viable hours in each day… and I certainly did take as much advantage of my time as was humanly possible. I had planned to go somewhere high (I usually do when I travel)… to see Tokyo from above… ideally at sunset. I particularly wanted to go to Shibuya Sky, which I passed many times… 360° open-air observation deck located on the roof of the Shibuya Scramble Square skyscraper. Shibuya Sky, however, is more than just an observatory: it spans three floors and has an indoor section which incorporates dazzling digital art displays to encourage you to see the city in a different way. It features hammocks for cloud watching And on the 46th floor, there is a café and bar, where you can sit back with a drink as you enjoy the aerial views of Tokyo at any time of day regardless of the weather. Never quite got there… definitely on the list for next time.

    There was some observations I made… funny, different, unusual 🤷🏼‍♀️

    🌸The Japanese are obsessed with ‘cute’ or ‘kawaii’ culture… the culture of celebrating all things adorable as well as embracing fictional characters as the embodiment of positivity. Kawaii can refer to items, humans and non-humans that are youthful, cute, childlike and is based on the sweet physical features of young children and animals… think Pikachu. But it’s not just for kids. It is everywhere in Japan… in store decor, in fashion, in colorful restaurants and cafes…including 3D latte art…

    … in sweets and pastries (there is a whole chain of Miffy bakeries around Japan)

    … theme parks and in every type of merchandise you can imagine.

    There is even a Hello Kitty bullet train complete with a merchandise store.

    🌸I love a country where you never need to worry about finding a toilet when you need it. And always clean! Even cute. And they are rarely a basic toilet like we would find at home. They can be quite complicated- at my hotel in Kyoto they had no less than 18 buttons… and that didn’t include the flush. The seats are usually heated. One I used started a recording of a bubbling brook the minute you closed the door. Many play music. Very cool.

    🌸There is actually a KitKat world. Japan offers a variety of unique Kit Kate favours, including a series based on foods and flavours found in cities and regions across Japan. It has been said that more than 300 highly unique flavours of Kit Kat have been found in different parts of Japan- pistachio, melon, vanilla, orange, brown sugar syrup, matcha, soy sauce, sakura mochi, banana caramel, cheesecake, peach, mango, apple, pudding, berry, purple sweet potato, salt lemon, coffee, cinnamon, mint, marbled, wasabi, sake, Rum Raisin, Swiss truffle, salted white choc, Chesnut autumn, high cacao, red bean… the list goes on.

    🌸Japanese are very patient. Perhaps that comes from living with such a large population. So… they don’t jay-walk even if there’s no cars at all. And they don’t get upset even if you have to wait a very long time in a queue. I think I’m reasonably patient but four hours standing on a queue to get through immigration is not ok- no matter where you are.

    🌸There are no garbage bins on the street. Anywhere! You have to carry your own and dispose of it later.

    🌸They eat strawberries and cream sandwiches 🤷🏼‍♀️

    🌸The people still nearly all wear face-masks.

    🌸Their bakery/cafes don’t open early like ours which was really frustrating when I wanted early breakfast.

    🌸They don’t give you change into your hand or take it from your hand. It goes on a little plastic tray.

    🌸They have a word for the sound of the wind rustling through the bamboo- so poetic!

    🌸There are vending machines everywhere and for everything- even beer and sake.

    🌸You have to take your shoes off when entering many places (walking on tatami mats or inside people’s houses in your shoes is considered extremely dirty as people sit on the floor).

    🌸Speaking of shoes… shoes like this are everywhere and they actually wear them (I guess because they are not tall). Not sure how they walk in them.

    🌸You will be glared at if you try to touch taxi doors (they are automatic and taxi drivers don’t like them being touched).

    🌸You usually have to pay with cash… which seemed really strange in a modern technology based country who’s trains run to the minute.

    🌸It is considered impolite to blow your nose in public, eat while walking down the street, block the escalator or stand your chopsticks up in your rice-bowl.

    But strange or not strange… there was always a sense of awe and excitement wherever I went. In a culture so different from my own, which is something I love about travel, there’s something new to see, discover and experience at every turn and Japan was certainly a destination I would recommend.

  • Fuji

    So, I’ve been staying in Shibuya but have never got around to writing anything about it. Shibuya is a shopping and entertainment district in central Tokyo that never sleeps, much like Shinjuku… and exactly what your Lost in Translation dreams are made of. The bustling crowds of people and neon signs will leave you mesmerised. It is known for it’s “scramble crossing”… one of the most famous intersections in the world and said to be THE busiest. You need to witness it and be part of it to understand what it is like… I crossed here many times. At peak hours, up to 3000 people all cross 7 crossroads simultaneously when the lights turn red. Pedestrians pour onto the street

    … and observing the mass of humanity cross all at once is mesmerizing.

    I stopped for an obligatory photo with the statue of the world’s most loyal dog… the Hachiko Memorial statue (apparently the most popular meeting point in all of Tokyo. There’s always heaps of people hanging around here (although not early in the morning).

    I love the story about this dog, told in the movie Hachi- a dogs tale. The Akita dog earned his statue by waiting for his owner every day after his daily commute from work. One day the owner suffered a fatal cerebral hemorrhage and never showed up. This did not stop Hachiko though, as he continued to wait every day at the same location every day. People tried to take Hachiko in, but he kept breaking free to wait for his master. The station staff also tried to shoo him away because they didn’t like the idea of a stray dog lurking around. But nothing could keep Hachiko away… in fact he kept going and waiting for his master for a full ten years until he passed away.

    My destination for today was Ashikaga Flower Park, just out of Tokyo. I have seen pictures of this place for years and it totally looks like something out of a fairytale. And I always wondered how I could incorporate seeing the cherry blossoms and wisteria on one trip as they flower at different times. But it occurred to me that since the cherry blossoms flowered early, perhaps the wisteria did too. Perhaps missing the early blossom season was a blessing in a way as it would allow me to see something that otherwise would not have been possible. So I thought I would go and see for myself, knowing it would definitely not be in full bloom but hoped it would still be worthwhile. And it definitely was!

    Couldn’t not try a wisteria soft serve- it was delicious!

    The Japanese love flowers, and wisteria are among their favorites. They are called fuji in Japanese, like Mt Fuji, but unlike the mountain, the flower is pronounced by stressing the second syllable (and is written with a different character). Ashikaga Flower Park is one of the best places to see wisteria in all of Japan and features lots of blue, white and pink wisteria, as well as yellow laburnum (kingusari) which look like yellow colored wisteria… as well as many other seasonal flowers including cherry blossoms.

    Three massive wisteria trellises extend for more than 1000 square meters, in addition to a large trellis of rare double-petaled wisteria. Absolutely stunning although not in full bloom.

    A photo from Google taken during full bloom

    One large fuji tree is 100 years old and its branches are supported to create a huge umbrella of blue fuji flowers.

    What the magnificent tree looked like when I was there
    Like the Tree of Souls from the movie Avatar… this is what it would look like in full bloom- from Google

    They actually have tunnels of the fuji flowers and photos of this are part of what made me want to visit here. And no, they were not really flowering enough yet to get the effect…

    What the tunnel was like when I was there
    What the tunnels look like in full bloom from Google

    … but the garden was simply stunning and the beautiful sweet smell of wisteria wafted through the air with the classical music that is played here. My senses were filled.

    On the way home I made a quick stop in Harajuku… often described as the heart of Japanese youth culture… with its Harajuku girls… colourful sweets, unique fashion stores and purikura (photo booth), small boutiques and cafes that do 3D latte art at Cat Street…

    … and luxury shopping at Omotesando. I had walked through here early in the morning when nothing was open so thought it would be good to see how it usually is.

    Takeshita st is the most famous and you need to take a deep breath, and enter into the chaos of the street.

    You’ll see so many interesting shops selling all sorts of ‘kawaii’ (cute in Japanese) clothing, items, and food!

    You also see the local youth and adults dressed in the latest Harajuku fashion! They certainly have their own sense of style.

    They have whole stores just selling ‘capsule toys’- whatever they are

    The glass archway entrance of Tokyu Plaza is cool. A puzzle of mirrors greets visitors and frames the escalators that take you inside. It produces a unique collage of reflections. The picture you get kind of mimics the inside of a kaleidoscope.

    Takeshita Street in Harajuku is known for its colorful characters and fashion, however, it is also known for its colourful and fun food!

    The Japanese are obsessed with sweets and I couldn’t believe how many exclusively sweets shops there are… literally everywhere. Crepes are one of those sweets and there are little shops all over the place… usually with huge queues. One of the strange things I have observed here is that so many restaurants and fast food outlets have fake displays of their food options at the front of their stores so that you know exactly what the finished product will look like when it’s fresh. This little cute place I snapped early one morning before opening… the crepes are certainly beautifully presented although I didn’t try so not sure if they are as delicious as they look.

    And then there’s the ultimate fun food- giant rainbow fairy floss. This fairy floss has to be seen to be believed! I didn’t want to buy one as I don’t actually like fairy floss, but it did look really cool and I just snapped a picture of someone else’s.

    I had thought about visiting one of Tokyo’s many animal cafes- puppies, kittens, micro pigs, penguins, owls and probably more. It was porcupines I wanted to see (as I’ve never actually seen one) and while I yearned to squeak with joy as I held one of these cute little balls in my hand, I just couldn’t get past the ethics. Keeping these animals in glass tanks, continually picked up and put down by people, exposed to sunlight despite being nocturnal, and crowded into hedgehog-filled rest areas while they’re typically solitary creatures… just doesn’t feel right even if they are well looked after. So in the end I decided not to go.

    But now it was basically time to head home for the last time…

  • Mind-blown!

    Warning- expect a million pictures because I can’t choose!

    Catching a glimpse of the beautiful Mt Fuji on my journey between Kyoto and Tokyo whetted my appetite and I wanted more. And as the area is a colder climate area, the blossoms bloom later… so there was a good chance I could see Mt Fuji again (the weather report looked good) and possibly see full gorgeous bloom cherry blossoms… what this trip was all about.

    I’m not normally one to do tours as I find them restricting. I like to do what I like to do. But I looked into doing this myself on the bullet train but it all seemed too hard. I’m really tired after walking 100km in the last 6 days so a tour actually seemed like a good option. So I booked. Very last minute.

    Mt Fuji, called Fuji-San by the Japanese, is the iconic painting-like snow capped highest mountain in Japan… or more accurately volcano. An active one… although it hasn’t erupted in several hundred years. And it’s considered to be a sacred place. And it’s beautiful!

    So that meant another early morning on the subway before our tour spirited us away from the tourist bustle of urban areas to tranquil countryside with magnificent mountainous views… and before I knew it we were arriving at our first stop- Arakurayama Sengen Park. If I wanted a gorgeous spot to admire Mount Fuji, then Chureito Pagoda sounded perfect… and there is a big chance that you’ve seen this location pop up on Instagram or somewhere else before.

    The iconic Chureito Pagoda is a five storied pagoda on the mountainside overlooking Fujiyoshida City and Mount Fuji as the perfect backdrop. The pagoda is part of the Arakura Sengen Shrine and was built as a peace memorial in 1963 nearly 400 steps up the mountain from the shrine’s main buildings. Now, I didn’t even notice the steps as I was so excited by the blossoms… literally hundreds of trees!

    And when you get to the top… the most spectacular and iconic views. Even more breathtaking in real life than in the pictures.

    We move onto another one of the most majestic views in Japan. Lake Kawaguchiko is the most accessible of the five lakes and the scenery is particularly breathtaking as cherry blossom trees virtually surround the lake with their soft white and pink hues. One big perfect pastel palette!

    And Mt Fuji looms large.

    There we had a lovely sunny day walking around this beautiful place with Mount Fuji as the backdrop.

    Next stop was Oishi Park on the Lake with another superb view of the lake and Mt Fuji. Flowers bloomed in profusion The 350m-long Flower Street shows off its seasonal blossoms starting with tulips in late April along with moss phlox. And of course, cherry blossoms

    And our last… and perhaps my favorite stop was Iyashi no Sato which stands on the site of a former farming village on the western shores of Lake Saiko. The village was destroyed by a landslide during a typhoon in 1966. Forty years later the village’s traditional thatched roofed houses were reconstructed and reopened as an open air museum and traditional craft village where people can learn about the culture and try out and purchase different local handicrafts. I thought it might be a boring hard sell… but it was the exact opposite. OMG- I was in heaven.

    Traditional thatched houses… cherry blossoms everywhere with Mt Fuji rising up behind the picturesque village, making for spectacular scenery. Could it possibly be any more picturesque?

    The village is now made up of more than twenty houses that have been converted into shops, restaurants, museums and galleries. Each of the shops specializes in a traditional craft such as pottery incense or weaving. Some of the handicraft shops, provide hands on workshops for visitors to try making traditional products, including washi paper, charcoal and soba noodles. There is even a portrait studio where visitors can try on kimono or samurai armor for a small fee and take photos. If only we’d had more time 😂

    So from one extreme to the other, we went from the peace and tranquility of the mountain countryside to the buzz of Shinjuku. Our bus dropped us back in Shinjuku and I decided to hang out with another single woman I had met on the tour. If you’re looking for the busiest, liveliest, brightest, craziest area to visit while in Tokyo, Shinjuku is probably a good option.

    It’s what many people imagine when they think about Japan. There’s even a giant Godzilla head on top of one of the hotels.

    It is home to the world’s biggest railway station, where more than two million passengers flow through their hallways daily… just a taste of the immensity of this mini-city.. So Shanta and I just strolled around and admired the bedazzling neon lights. Part of the quintessential Tokyo experience, the neon lights are iconic symbols of a city that never sleeps… it kind of reminded me of the bright lights of New York’s Times Square. It’s a lot of fun and kind of overwhelming. It is also the epicentre of Tokyo culture and cuisine!

    Our first stop was in Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho… aka Pee Alley. While the blossoms that you see on this street in my pictures aren’t real, it remains one of Tokyo’s most beautiful streets… if you can call it a street. A tiny alleyway is more to the point.

    This tiny place is filled with even tinier restaurants and bars that fit a max of about 8 people each… mostly locals.

    There are apparently about 280 of them and each one is so full of character and made me feel like I was in some kind of movie or something! It was like Pontocho in Kyoto… and we stopped and had a drink in one of the tiny bars.

    We then headed off to Shinjuku Golden Gai which is another small area in Tokyo with a lot of character. It has a unique and alluring nightlife scene. Small bars are clustered together and weave through narrow alleys and passageways.

    The lanes are only wide enough for a single person to pass-through and we found a little place to eat some delicious ramen

    Bed time for me after another long day walking another 18 km. Tomorrow is my last day in Japan and I have to make the most of it.

  • Blossoms… and blossoms of a different kind

    This trip has been all about the cherry blossoms… that’s what I came for. But I actually love any blossoms or flowers and today I planned to see something different.

    Started my day on the subway again heading to the sprawling Ueno Park, which boasts a zoo, art galleries, museums, a pagoda (the Kaneiji temple) and quiet repose from 5am; although I wasn’t there quite so early.

    A couple of weeks ago this place would have been teeming with people, as one of the most popular places for sakura viewing in Tokyo. Big groups line the pavements to gaze at the cherry blossoms, gathering with snacks and friends to enjoy leisurely hanami parties in the spacious park grounds. Apparently it becomes very crowded with people flocking from all over to enjoy the area’s 1000 sakura trees, so one of the advantages to the blossom season being at an end is that the crowds are also at an end. And there were some beautiful late blooming blossoms…

    …and swan boats on the pond.

    Happened across a peony garden which was a lovely bonus.

    But the real reason I was here was just passing through from the subway on my way to Nezu Shrine. This Shrine is one of the Tokyo’s oldest and most beautiful places of worship but remains largely under the radar. Bunkyo Tsutsuji Matsuri or Bunkyo Azalea Festival is one of the most popular festivals in Tokyo, held at the Nezu Shrine as of next weekend… but the azaleas were ready to go… and I love azaleas!

    The Shrine is set in lush greenery, with ponds of vibrant koi fish…

    … and elegant, beautifully colored, wooden structures that reflect Japanese culture in all its age and beauty.

    It also features a tunnel of vermilion torii gates just like Kyoto’s renowned Fushimi Inari Shrine that I visited a few days ago in Kyoto. It may not be as grandiose as Fushimi Inari, but Nezu Shrine is beautiful in its own right.

    But the gates were not what I was here to see.

    Nezu is at the peak of its spring beauty when the Shrine’s thousands of azalea bushes of over a hundred different varieties bloom on its spacious hillside garden in April. Bursting with colour is an understatement as the colorful flowers turn the shrine’s lush green garden into a sea of red, purple, pink and white. Just spectacular!

    From here I made my way back to the Meguro river that I had visited on my first day here. And I was still chasing blossoms… of a different sort. I had managed to get a booking at the always booked out Haute Couture cafe.

    I know some people might find this sort of thing a but cheesy or cutsie but I eat this stuff up. Haute Couture Cafe was made for Instagram (they even provide each table with a pink selfie stick), with the themed decoration being truly OTT.

    The interior décor of the café changes according to the seasons, so the walls and ceilings were completely covered in cherry blossoms at the moment (and will soon change to wisteria and then later to summer garden or autumn leaves). It doesn’t matter where you sit, as each table was made to be the ideal photo spot.

    Specialising in afternoon tea sets (high tea), the menu here also changes with the seasons. I was here for the special sakura afternoon tea and it felt like I was in fairyland. And it wasn’t all show… the lineup of delicately prepared and presented seasonal sweets was delicious and certainly the best high tea I have ever had… and all with such a magical atmosphere.

    I walked off some of the sweets as I headed home for a little rest and to blog before going out again to the Sakura Night Garden at Shinjuku Gyeon… a beautiful way to appreciate the cherry blossoms after dark. This popular Tokyo garden has an incredible 900 cherry trees, covering 70 varieties, many of which are late blooming… and have collaborated with the digital art collective NAKED for their first ever night illumination event.

    I was given my own cute lantern that reflected Sakura shapes onto the ground …

    … to take with me around the park and walked along the path lit up with colorful lights before emerging in a large field complete with both real and digital cherry blossoms and calming background music.

    Man people say around enjoying hanami on little pink Sakura shaped picnic mats. The Japanese really love their cherry blossoms. And so do I!

  • The lady herself…

    Yesterday was a rest day (only walked 10kms 😆). I really needed it even though I had sort of planned to go to Nara for a day trip to see the roaming deer amongst the cherry blossoms…

    … but since I was pretty sure the blossoms would be few and far between, I decided not to. That will have to be for next time.

    Had a bit of a late sleep and ventured out to Maruyama Park, a stunning oasis of beauty and charm, which draws a lot of people during cherry blossom season, although only later in the day. At 7 am there were only a few locals practicing their Tai chi and an occasional photographer. The park has hundreds of cherry blossom trees but I specifically went to see one amazing huge weeping cherry tree…the centerpiece of the park… hoping that it may be one of the late bloomers. But not to be… not a blossom in sight.

    My picture

    Now I know people are thinking that I have posted photos of such beautiful blossoms… how can I say that there are gone. Am I never satisfied? Perhaps the answer to that is probably no I’m not. But just to give you an idea of what the tree looks like now compared to what it looked like a few weeks ago might give you an idea.

    And the blossoming trees are few and far between- for every one in flower now there were probably 20 or 50 before.

    Another couple of examples of one of the streets near where I was staying- literally called cherry blossom street and the Philosophers Path…

    Cherry blossom street when I saw it
    Cherry blossom street a couple of weeks ago.
    Philosophers Path when I was there- still stunning with an occasional Cherry blossom tree
    Philosophers Path a couple of weeks ago

    But that’s life and the tree was beautiful anyway.

    I went back to my hotel to pack up and check out and spent some time in the lounge doing my blog. Then at lunch time I headed for the amazing Nishiki Market- a very busy, narrow, five block long marketplace/shopping street lined by more than 100 shops and restaurants.

    Rich with history and tradition, the market is renowned as the place to obtain many of Kyoto’s famous foods and goods- from giant soy marinated scallops to black sesame and 3 colour dango, grilled eel, huge and delicious tempura crab legs. The list goes on. If I had somewhere like this near home I would eat here everyday I think!

    Back on the bullet train to Tokyo and was super happy and surprised to get this view out of my window- the country’s most iconic landmark and Japan’s highest mountain/volcano… the lady herself Mt Fuji. It was certainly a highlight as very often she cannot be seen due to clouds and poor visibility.

    My new hotel is certainly interesting… a women only capsule hotel. I wanted to have a shower and couldn’t find one and didn’t have a towel… so went to reception to find out that there are no private showers. Instead there is an ‘onsen’ or public hot spring. It’s very Japanese thing and there is some basic onsen etiquette to follow: You should thoroughly wash before getting in the water. The bath is shared by others, so it is essential you are completely clean. There are open showers and low stools nearby to sit on and wash. You will be completely naked no matter how many others are sharing the space. I did not expect that- but totally enjoyed soaking in the very hot bath.

  • The coolest temple that no one’s ever heard of

    Again I headed off bright and early as being a weekend, I had read that the crowds are even worse than usual. So I made my way to Arashiyama and arrived by about 7am. It was actually lovely to head out of the city to a more rural setting to get some fresh air. And it certainly was fresh… about 4° and I was relieved to have my teddy jacket with me which up until now, I had wondered why I even packed.

    I headed over the Togetsukyo Bridge…

    and up the Main Street which a couple of weeks ago would have been surrounded by a pretty impressive number of cherry tree in full blossom.

    The mountains behind the bridge are dyed in shades of pink when the Sakura bloom… but you guesses it… pretty much no blossoms. And no people. There was barely a soul to be seen and nothing was open.

    I had been hoping to have some breakfast somewhere but as has generally been the case, that seems impossible in Japan as cafes and bakeries don’t open until around 10. So I passed the Kimono forest- an art installation of 600 clear cylinders with Kyo-yuzen kimono designs around one of Arashiyama’s railway stations…

    … and then headed straight up to the famed Arashiyama bamboo grove.

    Arashiyami Bamboo Grove is a beautiful place full of tall bamboo trees. If you’ve seen a photo of Kyoto, there is a big chance that you’ve seen the Arashiyami Bamboo Grove.

    But I have no idea what all the hype is about. It was a lot smaller than I would have thought… in fact I’m sure I’ve seen more impressive groves elsewhere. But it was still lovely… paths lined with endless rows of towering bamboo… other-worldly, serene and dreamlike… with the sound of the rustling bamboo (which btw apparently the Japanese actually have a word for that- how poetic) but there were already quite a few people here trying to capture the feeling of standing in the midst of this sprawling bamboo grove and I could imagine what it would be like once the tourists start pouring in. No tranquility then, that’s for sure.

    I had planned to take a ride on the very popular retro Sagano Romantic Train, which offers picturesque views and runs along the majestic Hozu river, passes through a veritable tunnel of Sakura for 7.3kms from Saga to Kameoka station.

    Image from google- thus is what it was supposed to be like

    Except obviously there was now no point. And then there would have been a river boat down the Hozu River to Arashiyama… all surrounded by cherry blossoms. But not this time!

    So I took a taxi down to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple that I had heard about and knew I would love… with it’s collection of 1200 unique and whimsical statues called rakan… the followers of Buddha…

    … created by everyday people who made a pilgrimage to to learn carving under the guidance of the Buddhist monk Kocho Nishimura. He urged them to bring forth the unique, personal figures that were hiding in the stone. And so they did!

    Each one is completely unique and many have humorous or whimsical expressions… some in prayer, some cute, scary, serene, laughing, bizarre.

    What a wonderful eclectic mix… and all covered with moss and lichen… like some weird fluffy green hair covering their faces.

    I spent ages amongst the sculptures and kept noticing new things. No one may have heard of it as this place is definitely off the tourist path… a rarely visited and interesting place that rewarded my adventurous spirit. It was so peaceful… and I made so many new friends 😂

    I then walked through the lovely back streets of Arashiyama to Gio-ji Temple and Moss Gardens- and everyone knows how much I love moss.

    A mossy carpet coloured in different emerald shades almost completely covers all ground surfaces under canopies of shady trees, while a small number of stone footpaths help to immerse you in the tranquil setting. And virtually not a soul in sight once again.

    And another bamboo grove.

    So when I walked a bit further down the road and turned the corner, I was totally shocked at the hordes of people that had packed the bamboo grove and the main street since I left for my few peaceful hours on my own. What a transformation!

    I was told to expect it to be busy… but this was next level! Buses packed the car park and it was difficult to walk down the main street now. I would hate to have been one of those people trying to get a photo amongst the bamboo.

    I stopped by a cute cafe- the eX cafe that I had read a recommendation for- with no idea of the menu.

    Of course there was a queue but I didn’t care as long as I could sit down. Eventually I was called to a seat and handed a menu. It was all very unusual and not what I was hoping for but I saw the girls on the next table with something that looked cool… so I ordered that. Japanese sweet odango (which is a kind of rice dumplingy thingy on skewers that I had to brown on a little traditional charcoal burner and then dip in black honey and red bean sauce). It was ok but more about the experience… and to rest.

    Back to Kyoto now to see the Fushimi Inari Shrine… a definite top drawer here that does not include cherry blossoms. This place is massive.

    There are 30,000 red torii gates or shrines that span four kilometres up a mountain. These gates symbolise the separation between the secular and sacred world … and seem to go on forever… leaving plenty of space to thin out the crowds. And there were crowds…

    … bottlenecked at the base of the shrine. But I had heard that there would be so just continued up the trail… up and up and up. I think everyone had the same idea because the crowds didn’t thin out nearly as quickly as I expected.

    Apparently most visitors only hike ¼ of the way, so if you climb just a little further the people start to dwindle away… and eventually it did happen. There were still plenty of people but not the crowds at the bottom.

    There are plenty of amazing photo opportunities a bit further up… and a lovely view over Kyoto.

    Did I make it to the top? I would usually pride myself on getting to the top no matter what, but just couldn’t do it. I probably got three quarters of the way and knew that what goes up must come down. With my knees and hips at the moment, it was going to be hard enough getting down from where I was.

    More subway time and then a walk to a little temple I had seen pictures of Yasaka Koshindo- often referred to as ‘Koshin.’ Colourful, eye-catching “Monkeys” adorn the temple.

    Visitors write a wish, the date and their name on the monkeys of their favourite colour. That, combined with letting go of one desire, is said to make the wish come true. The monkey is considered a godly messenger. Whatever… but I love colour and thought this temple was very cool.

    I had walked past it several times without even realizing it as I had been there in the early morning and late night when it was closed. The area was now teeming with people- very different to when I had been to the area before… and I couldn’t wait to get out of there…

    … although I did see a couple of beautiful Japanese girls posing for some photos in stunning kimonos.

    I was tired, struggling to walk and craving wine. I hadn’t had one since I arrived…everywhere has beer but it’s not my thing. So I hobbled back to Pontocho and found a little bar. The bars and restaurants on the right side of the alley offer seasonal outdoor patio or window seating with a view of the Kamogawa River and I was lucky enough to be given a window seat right next to a river and the setting was beautiful. And so was the wine.

    The bar was in one of these traditional Japanese buildings on the river.

    End of day 4- and today I walked 25kms. Tomorrow is pretty much a rest day as I head back to Tokyo.

  • Philosophy and Blossoms

    I wake around 5 as I know this is the best time to escape the crowds in this very busy tourist haven. It is raining, as I knew it would be. I had been watching the weather for the last week and the forecast kept getting worse- 50mm rain expected today. But what do you do… that’s just part of travel. The most beautiful place I believe I have ever been to (Plitvice National Park in Croatia) I spent 6 hours walking in pouring rain in a partly flooded and closed national park. You just do it anyway! And today I was headed for the famed “Philosopher’s Path” and of anywhere in Kyoto I had been looking forward to this. I had purchased a Seed poncho specifically for today… so rain or no rain, here I come.

    Firstly I wandered the streets around the Kiomizudera area for some of Kyoto’s most picturesque scenery at Ichinezaka, Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

    These sloping streets are lined with historic Japanese style buildings that typify Kyoto. Traditional buildings (private homes and shops selling souvenirs and various Japanese products to sweet shops and restaurants) line the narrow streets. Of course nothing is open and there are barely any people around… except a couple having wedding photos taken (that poor wedding dress)…

    … no one else is silly enough to wander the streets in this pouring rain at 5.30am. But it is perfect for me… without the crowds, here I can immerse myself in the atmosphere of Kyoto, with Hokan-ji’s three-tiered pagoda overlooking the perfect scene- just as I would a have imagined in my dreams.

    Except that I wouldn’t have been wet… as I have come to the conclusion that my new poncho is totally not waterproof! Shame Seed! I am already soaking wet and there is a long day ahead.

    I continue my wandering to Gion Shirakawa- perhaps Kyoto’s most beautiful street.

    Shirakawa district is found along the small Shirakawa Canal, crossed by picturesque bridges and lined with weeping willows and cherry trees.

    The majestic willow trees are indeed a sight, their long strings of leaves danced and swayed in the breeze as they dripped with droplets of rain. The pale pink of cherry blossoms and the green willows form a delightful contrast. An old, small and very quaint stone and wood bridge crosses the canal towards some homes and is the perfect spot to take pictures.

    I had briefly passed here yesterday afternoon and there were throngs of people vying for a spot to take a photo, many donned in beautiful kimonos. Now there is no one- not even one person to ask to take a photo 😢. It provides the perfect setting for nostalgia with its dark wood houses, overhanging branches and a softly babbling brook. Picture perfect!

    Next… the Philosophers Path… although I made a short pit stop to buy myself a very needed umbrella. This intimate two kilometre path gets its name from the prominent Japanese philosopher Nishanda Kitaro who is reported to have said that the path was a good place for meditation. The Sakura blooming along the canal which cover the path like a canopy and the fallen petals underfoot make this the most popular spot in all of Kyoto during the Sakura season… maybe all of Japan.

    As I meandered the Philosophers Path, I certainly contemplated what the hell I was doing on a tiny back path in the outskirts of Kyoto in the pouring rain? Beauty was all I could come up with. I am a lover of beauty. When I chase blossoms it’s about beauty. When I chase waterfalls it’s about beauty. What a beautiful world we are blessed to live in…

    I want to experience as much of it as is possible in my one life. And open others eyes to the possibilities. Even when things don’t necessarily go the way we envision them… like walking in the rain… and not having the blossoms I had hoped for to bathe the path and canal in cascades of pink. But it is simply stunning anyway…

    … and there are a few late blooming varieties around to brighten up the very grey day.

    I absolutely loved strolling this path… it was just so pretty… captivating… and I soaked up the meditative ambience. The rain was persistent and heavy and the path was beginning to flood in parts… and little gushing waterfalls were forming and cascading down the hills into the canal… but still I walked. The sound of the water was all around me… which I loved. The advantage of the weather (and being early once again) was that there were no huge flocks of crowds and I virtually had the path to myself.

    I stop for brunch when I am finished this part of my wandering… I have already walked well over 10 kilometres and need breakfast. And a break from the rain. I have a seasonal crepe breakfast with cherries, sakura ice cream and chocolate and it is delicious. And a hot chocolate as now that I have stopped walking and am quite wet, I am cold. Actually shivering. I need to get walking again to warm up and there is still plenty planned for my day.

    I wander back through the sprawling grounds of Nanzen-ji Temple To the hidden gem of Tenju-au-Zen temple, a sub-temple nestled within the complex and boasting a beautiful Japanese garden. Tucked away from the crowds, there are two distinct gardens to explore, with the first being a karesansui dry garden and the second featuring a narrow wooden bridge leading to a bamboo grove and a large koi-filled pond.

    Another shrine…the Heian Shrine is next on the agenda and it’s definitely not to visit the shrine. I’m actually not that into the temples and shrines although I love their cultural importance… but you actually can’t avoid them even if you wanted to… with over 2000 just in Kyoto. They are pretty much on every corner and street. But many of them have the most spectacular gardens… particularly during cherry blossom season. And of course, this is what I love.

    Now to some extent I am no longer chasing the blossoms… I have had to accept that I am too late generally for the extravagant shows of blossoms that would have enveloped Kyoto a couple of weeks ago. But Heian shrine features a large number of late blooming pink weeping cherry trees throughout its gardens. And they were stunning!

    I then walked to the tongue-twisting Konkaikomyoji Temple, known as Kurodani for short. This is a sprawling temple complex with a variety of impressive buildings all at different elevations. And cherry trees… past their bloom. And beautiful misty views.

    In the middle of Kyoto. With seasonal beauty. It’s the one place I have managed to get to that gives views over Kyoto. Even if it is not clear.

    It is still raining… and there’s still no one much around. I was planning on visiting another temple close by that had great views… but I got lost (yes again) and was so tired I ended up eventually finding a taxi and came home for a short break to rest my weary body before dinner.

    I head to Pontocho… quite early to try to beat the crowds that make it almost impossible to get into any restaurant. There are always queues… and I don’t have the energy to stand for an hour in a queue. This time of the day is my favourite time here… just after dusk, before the bulk of people arrive for dinner and the light is just so beautiful. Golden hour.

    Pontocho is a very popular, tiny alley with an extensive restaurant selection, just near my hotel… and I love it! The buildings along the alley tried to retain their historical character and there is a delightful moody ambience… you feel as you are again transported to another time. When I come out after dinner, the rain has finally stopped. Yay!

    My last stop for the night was Kodaiji Temple for the Night Illumination- apparently the best overall night-time illumination in Kyoto thanks to its range: a high-tech projection mapping show, illuminated buildings…

    majestical bamboo pathway…

    … cherry trees…

    … and illuminated garden. Plus an envelope-pushing art exhibit inside– one you’d never expect at a temple.

    As I am just up the road, I decide to head back to the Kiomizudera area that I loved so much this morning, to see it in a different light…

    … and then head home to my capsule to sleep. This body is tired- 21 kilometres today. But worth every one.