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Pristine Silence
We were in the little village of Strahan on the wild West Coast to experience nature at its most raw. Set on the edge of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, Strahan is the gateway to Franklin-Gordon Rivers National Park and today we were booked for a day of relaxed adventure on the Spirit of the Wild… a 6 hour cruise on Macquarie Harbour, through Hells Gates and headed for the deep dark waters of the Gordon River giving us the opportunity to experience the dramatic and untamed landscapes up close whilst learning of its history.
The harbour cruise is unlike anything you’ve experienced anywhere else in the world. Mirror-flat water reflecting the vast Tasmanian wilderness, misty mountain peaks, densely forested riverbanks and ancient Huon Pines holding back the lush, green rainforest, tannin-stained rivers and the brutal convict history of tiny Sarah Island.
The weather was not what we wanted and there were certainly no blue skies but in some ways it perhaps just added more atmosphere with low cloud and mist sitting over the forest as we made our way down the river through the serene wilderness beauty. This beauty is one that you definitely can’t capture with pictures. It’s more about the pristine silence (even the boat travels in ‘whisper’ mode) and knowing you are travelling through untouched wilderness with global significance. You can feel the cultural and spiritual significance. Though freezing in the front of the boat, I was in awe as I soaked it in. It felt like I was in a sacred place.
As we cruised along the river, all i could think about was how good it would be to get off the boat and have a look around. Heritage Landing was an opportunity to do just that. Our boat moored at a landing and we went on guided tour around a boardwalk loop through the forest. It was a great chance to see and smell the forest up close once again, including the magnificent Huon pines, and I can’t get enough of it. It really feels like some kind of prehistoric ’land before time’ movie set.
Huon pines-,these are endemic to Tasmania and grow to be over 3000 years old making them some of the oldest living organisms on earth. They grow at only 1 millimetre a year. 
We then head to Sarah Island to learn the fascinating history of the convict and pioneer days and admittedly, i wasn’t all that fussed about the idea of convict history tour. But, the stop here and the stories of life on the island and how it ended up being a major ship building site was actually awesome- our guides was amazing and really brought the history to life.
After returning to Strahan, the girls return to our little BnB to warm by the fire while I decide to walk to Hogarth Falls. It is a pretty waterfall, cascading down the sheer, mossy rock face to the log strewn, tanin-stained waters below. A lovely short walk to the waterfall, the tree-fern lined walking track meanders adjacent to Botanical creek beneath stands of towering eucalyptus and through verdant temperate rainforest. It is apparently home to a number of platypus that frolick in the mornings or at dusk… but sadly, despite constant looking, I still haven’t managed to spot one.
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Frothing
Omg- what can I say. Maybe my favourite day so far- and that’s a big statement. But I’ve always loved the forest… and waterfalls… and moss. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
We leave Hobart- our earliest start so far as Mt Wellington was off the itinerary. More driving through impossibly scenic countryside including some snow kissed mountaintops. Wish my eyes could take photos as it’s often impossible to stop when you want to and very difficult to capture what you see while moving.
We head to Mt Field National Park to do our first waterfall walk. And I’m excited.
From the minute we enter the forest, we are ‘frothing’ (as my son Alex would say… meaning frothing at the mouth due to excitement)… the gnarled, fairy-tale mountain forest… the classic, soothing sound of gentle water… beautiful ferns including huge tree ferns, fungi and trees lining the path… the towering Swamp Gums, the world’s tallest flowering plant (just one of the many cool flora and fauna in Tassie!), glittering tannin-stained waters bubbling by your feet, the dripping mosses and lichens of every shade of green under the sun- and moss! Everywhere! I am obsessed with moss… it makes everything feel so alive with the intensity of its green green colour.
Forget Tasmania, it would have to be one of the world’s best short walks. And I haven’t even mentioned the actual falls yet!
Russell Falls… cascading down the rugged mountainside in three tiers and laced with swaying rainforest ferns, this curtain of shimmering water is a photographer’s dream. The symmetry, scale and sheer presence and beauty of this waterfall will stay with you forever. We are overcome with the beauty of creation and drink in the atmospheric scenery.
Next we walk up the many stairs to get to the top of the falls… that looks like just an innocent little stream which you wouldn’t expect to have such a giant and powerful drop at the end. It just does not make sense to me how it can produce enough water for how amazing those falls are, but I guess that is one of nature’s (Gods) little curiosities!
We then continued up many more stairs, and along the path to the gorgeous, tiered cascade waterfall Horseshoe falls. While the actual falls is not as spectacular as Russell Falls, the serenity and aesthetics of its tranquil surrounds with the vibrant green mossy rocks in the foreground make it perhaps even more beautiful.
As we had had an early start without breakfast, we call into the Waterfall cafe hoping to fill our empty tummies but find that the kitchen is not open yet… and we don’t have time to wait. So carrot cake it is and at least the girls can get their coffee fix (and chai for me) and then we are on our way again heading towards the wild west coast.
We pass through Derwent Bridge and as we were ahead of schedule, decide to make an unplanned stop at the Wall in the Wilderness which I had heard fantastic reviews on. It is Australia’s most ambitious art project undertaken in recent years, by creator/designer, Greg Duncan… a fascinating, one of a kind masterpiece, the Wall is an astonishingly realistic hand carved 100 metre stretch of wooden, mostly Huon pine panels. They depict the history of the Central Highlands of Tasmania as far back to when the area was inhabited by the indigenous people and forward through to the stories of pioneers and modern day hydro workers. The detail of each piece of wood that has been so lovingly crafted into a story in a way which brings incredible emotion into the art and to those who view it. It actually made me teary and was a truly fascinating experience, I was only frustrated that no cameras are allowed inside so photos are all from google.
Photo of Greg Walsh working on his labour of love. Staff there said it was like watching the grass grow 😂 
We thought we might finally get some food here… but no such luck as the cafe has not reopened since covid. There was however a selection of lovely Tasmanian wines to enjoy by the toasty warm fire. We weren’t even allowed to take pictures by the fire.
Our next stop is to Nelson Falls, Just out of Queenstown. From the beginning the walk is picturesque, with deep green ferns and ancient trees… with lush, dense rainforest which is typical of region but quite different from the earlier falls we had visited earlier in the day. There is also more moss to feed my obsession. The walk to the waterfall has brilliant ‘education signs’, that challenge you to go back in time, and imagine what the area would have looked like hundreds of thousands of years ago… and explain how the habitat has evolved, and how some of the plants unique to this part of Tasmania are in fact ancient species that have managed to survive due to the cool, temperate climate that the Nelson Valley rainforests require.
Little pink robin After a very windy drive through the mountains, we eventually arrive in Strahan, having basically not eaten all day. It is nearly dinner time and we are all starving, so I call the restaurant where I had booked us months ago on several recommendations, to see if we can bring our booking forward, only to find that they are closed and have been for a while. Apparently there are huge hospitality staffing issues in the area and very little is open. We find the local pub which has a queue and no available tables and start to think that we may be going to bed hungry… but they do eventually get us a table. We enjoy our meals immensely and head home for an early night. It’s been our biggest driving day, covering a lot of ground and tomorrow is another big day. Still so much to look forward to!
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One hundred thousand welcomes
Today was an easy day and maybe the only one of the whole trip with no time pressure. Mt Wellington is impossible to ignore, rising high above Hobart with its alpine cap, fluted columns and lush, rainforest-clad slopes. Originally I had planned to go to Up the mountain for sunrise to see the jaw-dropping view from the summit, with the whole of Hobart and the Derwent River spread out below. However, with the rain, we figured it was not worth it as the view would likely have been shrouded in cloud (and have since discovered that the road is closed with ice and snow so won’t be able to see it before we leave. Disappointing… but that’s travel.
This is what we missed 🤷🏼♀️ So, we started the day with a walk in the rain to breakfast at Daci & Daci which had been recommended to me… an opulent destination for all- things-sweet, an artisanal patisserie and an absolutely delicious start to the day. Yum!
Then it was off to browse the colourful bustling Salamanca Market. Basically the whole trip had revolved around being in Hobart on Saturday so we could be here. I love a good market and wasn’t disappointed. With over 300 stalls- bargains and buskers, everything from fresh produce to hot food, Tassie wines and spirits, designer clothes and artisan handicrafts… it’s one of the biggest drawcards in Hobart. More than a few purchases were made although mostly delectable food bought direct from the producers to add to a planned dinner platter in a couple of days (no room in our little bags to actually take much home to Brisbane). We couldn’t resist a mouth watering salted crème brûlée pavlova even though we were definitely not hungry. That’s what holidays are for right?
Then walked a few of those calories off with a leisurely wander on the fringes of Hobart’s center, in Battery point… the city’s oldest and one of its prettiest suburbs. Originally the location of Hobart’s defensive garrison and home to hundreds of sailors and soldiers, these days, the defences are long gone, but the gorgeous Victorian and Georgian style houses constructed for the officers still remain. With a palpable sense of colonial history, the narrow streetscape is lined with boutiques, high-end hotels, grand mansions, cute cafés and cuter cottages… weatherboard or sandstone, beautified by house-proud owners with green thumbs. I think Karen wants to sell up and move here… or at least get a home with a bigger garden!
We found the most delightful formal English style walled park in our wanderings. St David’s park was the site of the first cemetery in Tasmania and a memorial wall which is made up of many of the original headstones from the park still remains including many headstones for children from those days when children’s life expectancy was not very high. Huge stately old trees and spectacular blossoms, magnolias, camellias, azaleas (purple ones which we had never seen and teeny tiny deep pink ones also), rhododendrons fill the park… we keep saying that throughout Tassie the blooms really do seem to be in steroids.
Had lunch at The Whaler in the heart of the market in Salamanca Place as I had been hanging out to try a lobster roll since before we left Brisbane. Once again… delicious with a local Tassie chardy (gin for the girls).
We then headed to the New Sydney Hotel… a laid-back watering hole in Hobart’s CBD, with a roaring fire, welcoming atmosphere and an Irish music jam session that had been recommended. We all love Irish music and it’s hard to find in Brisbane. It was soooo good… so many talented musicians enjoying themselves and everyone else in the bar having a wonderful time as well. Apparently irrespective of ability or repertoire every player/singer gets a free drink. I doubt you could have a more fun Irish experience outside of Ireland than this. If I lived locally I think I would be here very regularly.
Lovely sign means one hundred thousand welcomes Walked home through the university rose garden and couldn’t resist more photos. Everyone’s probably sick of our flower photos but the blooms are seriously so amazing. Never seen a blossom tree so big and fully laden.
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Pushing the Boundaries
We had a comparatively quiet day today with one of our foursome still not well. Had a bit of a sleep-in and then headed off away from the Tasman Peninsula towards the big smoke- Hobart.
Once again passed beautiful panoramic scenery as we drove- it seems that everywhere in Tasmania has it in some variation.
Stopped on the way at the tessellated pavement at Eaglehawk Neck- a natural wonder that looks man-made and has to be seen to be believed. An inter-tidal rock platform where an unusual form of geological circumstances has resulted in a rare landform… much too complicated for me to understand or explain but it has something to do with salt crystals. Anyway, low tide exposes the geometric lines and angles of this bizarre rock formation- and it’s pretty cool. I would have loved to be here for sunrise or sunset as photos I have seen look stunning and is a photographers paradise. We have been so blessed with the weather so far but we knew it couldn’t last and the rain started to fall.
We continued on to Hobart and the girls dropped me off at Brooke St Wharf to go to MONA (Museum of Old and New Art)- something that I had been looking forward to but was of no interest to the others. A partly subterranean, privately owned museum that has been bankrolled by an eccentric local gambler: What’s not to love? Sounds intriguing at the very least… time to get weird and embrace the eccentric (poo machine anyone? Or how about the remains of a suicide bomber cast in chocolate. 😆)!
Accessed by a quirky ferry from Hobart and located within a winery, the eccentric, thought-provoking, envelope-pushing Museum of Old and New Art has some of the most outrageous, bizarre, interesting, artistically challenging, confronting and very adult art in Australia (works that please, confound and confront). But pushing the boundaries and poking a tongue out at the conventional art establishment is something creator David Walsh does not shy away from.
Once I arrived at MONA’s jetty, and climbed the 99 steps to the entrance, I resisted the temptation to enter straight away and instead spent time exploring the huge grounds with their quirky and magnificent sculptures, creative landscaping and architectural hardscaping… all with a spectacular view over the river to Mt Wellington.
The architecture and design of this massive building and precinct is mind-boggling and unconventional as it is predominantly underground. MONA is built into the landscape, tunneling down through the Triassic sandstone to create three subterranean levels. It is an artwork in itself so even if you’re not into art it is worth visiting for the architecture alone. It really is amazing!
MONA is set out as a maze of rooms, corridors, tunnels and open spaces. Unlike traditional museums there are no brightly lit rooms with art hanging on stark white walls; instead, there is interesting lighting that creates atmosphere. There are also no artwork labels as all info is provided by the museum’s phone app called The O.
This unique and provocative art collection definitely leaves an impression as you explore the three floors of subterranean architecture, art pieces and exhibits and is as much a sensory and interactive experience as it is a visual one. It is sure to shock, intrigue and even offend- and it is meant to. Its worth thinking about this quote by Cesar Cruz- “Art should comfort the disturbed, and disturb the comfortable”
I loved the Ladies Lounge. This is a women’s only space, without signage or fanfare on the exterior, but identifiable by expansive green velvet drapes and a female attendant ‘manning’ the entry. What you find inside apparently constantly changes. There was a male musician playing the saxophone… blind-folded- interesting touch.
There is a wall dedicated to vagina in MONA. The wall showcases sculptures of different shapes and sizes of vagina with an important message of inclusivity and diversity. I actually love this.
Loved a lot of pieces. Disliked or was kind of offended by a few. Indifferent to some. Some were funny. And many just downright weird! But generally loved the experience which finished after sitting outdoors in a hot pink bean bag sipping local bubbles and listening to some awesome and unusual live music
Inside the head 
The girls were also enjoying a wine or two, keeping out of the rain back home at our beautiful new BnB- a cottage in the grounds of a stately Victorian hilltop villa set in majestic period gardens- The Carinda Collection.
Our cottage- the old Coach House 
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An epic day
What an epic morning. It will be impossible to find the words to describe the amazingness we experienced. But God is good. In so many ways! I had been following the weather for the last 10 days and it was always going to rain. But we woke to a beautiful day with perfect conditions for our Pennicott Wilderness boat cruise- the sun was shining, there was virtually no wind and minimal swell.
Sunrise view from our BnB We started our day with a visit to Remarkable Cave. This geological oddity is aptly named- it really is remarkable! A sea cave that is actually more of a tunnel. In fact, it’s really two tunnels through the sea cliffs that join together. We visited at low tide for the best views and took the stairs down to see where the waves come through the cave.
Sculpting Tasmania. Can to see the shape of Tasmania silhouetted at the end of the tunnel? We listened to the energy of the sea as it continues to sculpt the cave… the rumble of the ocean surf outside… the rush of water being sucked through the tunnels and being slapped against the cave walls. We could feel and smell the cool, damp, salt-laden air rushing in through the cave tunnels. Magnificent and an amazing way to start the day.
While there we checked out the Maingon Bay Lookout with great views of the sea cliffs, where apparently you can often see surfers in the waves far below you. Wild!
Then we joined our unforgettable three hour Wilderness boat tour along the spectacular coastline between Port Arthur and Eaglehawk Neck through potentially one of the roughest bodies of water in the world.
Our captain Kane was interesting, informative and amusing giving commentary as we gazed in awe at the stunning coastal seascapes. Donned in our bright red ankle length raincoats…
… we set out with a group of three boats and travelled beneath the highest vertical sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere at Cape Pillar…
… explored off-shore islands…
… spectacular archways…
Tasman Arch that we walked to yesterday as seen from the sea 
… deep sea caves and fluted rock formations and platforms…
getting up close to the most iconic of which are the candlestick and totem pole at Cape Huay.
We even saw the waterfall we had walked to yesterday at Waterfall Bay from below.
Incredible photo opportunities were everywhere but the pictures could never show the breath-taking wild magnificence of that rugged coastline. We were constantly enthralled at the beauty, power and might of the southern ocean.
But if that wasn’t enough, we were also blessed to see migrating humpback whales including a calf, a large pod of dolphins that just decided to hang out with the boat for a while, rare sea birds like the Wilson Storm Petrel and the albatross wheeling on the wind (did you know that they can fly for five years without ever touching land- amazing!) and lots of playful seals. The water was the most amazing deep turquoise colour and so crystal clear that you could see below the surface.
Could be a seagull- but actually a rare large amazing albatross 
What an unbelievably memorable experience. So blessed!
I almost feel like I should do the second half of our day in a separate blog, as very soon our euphoria from the amazing morning left us as we visited Port Arthur. It’s hard to comprehend how a place of such beauty could have been the scene of our worst ever non-wartime massacre in recent times and Australia’s harshest and most brutal penal settlement. Only the worst of the worst were sent to Port Arthur, and while the conditions were unthinkable you can’t help but admire the stunning harbour, lush green lawns and intricate Georgian architecture throughout the sprawling grounds. It’s a fascinating, well-preserved site exploring the early convict history of Australia but we felt a real heaviness in our spirits and with one of our party unwell, were actually quite happy to leave.
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World’s best vanilla slice, driveway service and convict history
Awesome day today exploring quaint villages, talking to the locals, soaking in the scenery, and indulging in Tassie produce in rural Tasmania. We hit the road early to take in the abundance of towns and sites worth a detour on the way to The Tasman Peninsula. Definitely the long way round but that’s ok!
Our first stop was Ross- mainly because we had heard that the worlds best vanilla slice was waiting for us at the bakery. Definitely worth the trip- so creamy and delicious.
Vanilla slice aside, Ross is one of the prettiest villages in midland Tasmania. We walked across the sandstone carved Ross Bridge, which was completed in 1836, and looked back on the village to admire the steeple of the Roman Catholic Church in the background. There are over 40 historical sites in Ross and we ooo’d and ahhh’d our way through the town wishing we had more time.
We moved onto Oatlands where history looms large…the town with the largest collection of sandstone Georgian buildings in Australia… there are apparently 150 of them, mostly convict-built, including 87 along the main street… and behind the facades we found antique shops, cafés and bars. And there’s a windmill 🤷🏼♀️
Next was a visit to Richmond Village- a charming town in the centre of one of Australia’s fastest-growing wine regions, the Coal River Valley, making it a terrific hub for foodies and wine aficionados alike. And like Ross and Oatlands, it feels like stepping back in time… rich in history and architecture, with more than 50 historic buildings… including an old gaol. Plenty of shops and cafes have sprung up in the old lovingly restored Georgian buildings with gorgeous gardens. There is even a Pooseum- a unique museum dedicated to animal poo and all the things that can be learnt from it.
We even had the amazing experience of old- fashioned car service at the fuel station- can’t even remember the last time that happened.
What a wonderful town… would love to have stayed here. Even found the perfect accommodation in a beautiful restored old sandstone church. Next time!
We strolled down to the willow lined river and its stunning Heritage listed arch bridge, recognised as the oldest existing bridge in Australia and like most buildings in town, built by convicts.
Behind the bridge you can see St. John the Evangelist Roman Catholic Church. Built in 1836 it is considered to be Australia’s oldest Roman Catholic Church.
Throughout the day we drive through more beautiful rural scenery, with flowers, fruit trees, vineyards and canola fields lining the roads as we head south.
We stop for lunch at the recommended award winning family owned Bangor Wine and Oyster Shed for a wine tasting and lunch… including award winning pinot noir, chardonnay and Riesling. We settled in on the deck soaking up awesome views across Blackman Bay and had by far the best food we had so far eaten in Tasmania. Everything was amazing.
Roasted cauliflower hummus, hazelnuts, truffle oil, house made focaccia
Pan fried local Daly potatoes, Brim Creek truffle brie, fried leek and parsley
Roasted butternut pumpkin, smoked paprika roasted white beans, tourn, Tasman leaves and spiced green sauce.
Steamed mussels, leek, cider, saffron and cream
Morroccan spiced lamb soupWith very full tummies, we needed a walk so continue south onto the Tasman Peninsula… land of the highest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere. After crossing the Neck, we drove through the unique village of Doo Town, laughing as we notice all the names of the houses (“Love Me Doo”, “Just Doo It”, “Make Doo”, “Digeri-Doo” and the risque “Doo-Me”), before heading for the Waterfall Bay track.
This spectacular walk takes you right to the edge as you skirt the cliff-line from the Tasman Arch car park… with numerous stunning views of the tremendous coastline the peninsula is renowned for from platforms along the cliffs that plummet into the swirling sea beneath. Geology is the star here, with amazing formations, including arches and gulches worn through sedimentary layers by constant wave action. The trail kicks off with the aptly named Tasman Arch being the first attraction. This natural forest-laden bridge seems to float in the air above the treacherous waters of the Tasman Sea.
The Devils Kitchen is next- a deep chasm in the cliffs with huge waves crashing against the rocks below.
Following the cliff edge for much of the way, you’ll be stunned by the phenomenal views over the many notches and coves that have been carved out of the rock over the millenia.
Patersons Arch 
The walk ends at a high lookout with views across to a waterfall that drops over perpendicular cliffs into the sea. I’m sure this would be best viewed after heavy rain (which there hadn’t been), the waterfalls at Waterfall Bay fall spectacularly from over 200m up.
We then head home to our BnB in White Beach- home for the next couple of nights with stunning views over Crooked Billet Bay
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A million shades of red and orange and yellow
Rose early for the sunrise this morning and wandered the little secluded coves of Binnalong Bay. I was awed by the ever changing appearance of the stunning lichen covered boulders as they were touched by the first rays of the rising sun. The red orange and yellow hues really came alive as the sun rose, lighting up the landscape in a million shades of red and orange and yellow. These wild splashes of colour provide a surreal contrast to the cool blue waters.
We started todays journey down to the Freycinet peninsula with a beautiful coastal drive stopping briefly at Redbill beach recommended by my brother.
Cool, turquoise waters sparkling in the sunlight? ✔️ Pure white sand, squeaking between your toes? ✔️ Salt ‘n’ pepper speckled boulders, splashed in red? ✔️ Flowers spilling down the banks surrounding the white sand? ✔️ Could it be any prettier? No. But we couldn’t really stay and relax as our daily itinerary was long. So we snapped some pictures and were soon on our way south.
Next was the Cape Tourville Lighthouse Walk in Freycinet National Park- an easy short walk on a well-constructed walkway, perched high above the Tasman Sea, offering remarkable coastal views from the easternmost cape. Much of the walk is on raised boardwalks, which at times, took us right to the cliffs edge. Sights include the reffed granite peaks of the Hazards, Wineglass Bay and nearby offshore rocks known as the Nuggets.
From there we continued onto Wineglass Bay. This is one of the most iconic spots in Tasmania and one of the world’s most beautiful beaches- and seeing it from above took our breath away. This beach inside Freycinet National Park has been voted among the world’s Top 10, and when we emerged a little hot and bothered from the eucalypt-scented forest we could see why. It is simply stunning, with its pure, white arch of sand curving perfectly towards the horizon… and it’s shimmering, azure waters that gently surge and swell… and beyond to the pink-hued rugged granite slopes of the Hazards (that somehow reminded me of Meteora in Greece) that rise dramatically from the sheltered turquoise bay. Time permitting, we could have taken the 1000 step trail down to the beach which I’m sure would have been amazing, as would a beautiful catamaran cruise (with wine) but that will have to wait for another visit (which I’m starting to think is inevitable).
Our next stop was for a very well deserved break at the modern and popular Devils Corner Cellar door recommended by my friend Anne and recently featured on MasterChef. Named after a rugged patch in nearby waters, The Devil’s Corner Cellar Door is a striking piece of contemporary architecture with one of the best views of the Hazards Range anywhere. We enjoyed a tasting of the Devil’s Corner range of wines accompanied by a truffled cheese platter as we relaxed on the deck taking in the panoramic views of the Hazards and Freycinet Peninsula and Moulting Lagoon wetlands.
We headed to Bicheno- a tiny town full of holiday shacks, bobbing boats, and friendly faces, to see the impressive blowhole. For thousands of years the ocean has battered the granite to carve out a sea cave underneath the coast. The water, battening the inside of the cave with increasing force, found a weak spot in the ceiling to blow a hole in the granite. The water now rushes into the cave, hits the walls , swells with increasing pressure and it all erupts out of the hole in the ceiling. This creates a geyser effect for those standing on top of the cave. The geyser erupts with varying force and the water makes different shapes with every surge of the ocean. They say to never turn your back on the blowhole. Well I did and unglamorously went a over t and landed flat on my back. Luckily nothing bruised except my ego (but very wet) 😆.
We then had some fun taking silly pictures amongst the rich deep orange coloured boulders
We made our way to the famed Lobster Shack for an early dinner which we had been so looking forward to. Boasting arguably the best dining location in Tasmania, the Lobster Shack is a boutique, farm gate style eatery overlooking the majestic ‘Gulch’ in Bicheno, where Lobster really is the hero! Except that it wasn’t (they gave me mor bay instead of garlic butter). And neither was anything else really. Very disappointing.
While during the day Bicheno is a fairly sleepy place, at night it apparently comes alive as one of the best places in Tasmania to see fairy penguins. After dinner we sat waiting expectantly for the cute little critters to make their appearance walking up the rocks and past us. And we waited. And waited. Cold and tired (and me still wet from my fall) we gave up. And then, suddenly in our way back to our car- there they were in all their cute glory… not in the hundreds but we were happy that we saw any at all.
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A Providore’s Dream
After a lovely fresh fruit and yoghurt breaky at our BnB we headed north to the Tamar Valley in anticipation of beautiful scenery and delicious food and wine that the area is world renowned for. The rolling green hills of the valley and its rich agricultural land attracts many growers and producers including makers of artisanal cheeses, ciders, beers, truffles, walnuts, cherry delicacies and more, all committed to their craft- a providore’s dream. And we weren’t disappointed.
Our first stop was the Tamar Islands wetlands- a unique wetland ecosystem of mudflats gouged by tidal rivulets, vast lagoons teeming with wildlife and and tiny pockets of gnarled forest on the little islands that dot the landscape. Abundant with plant and animal life, the wetlands are a magnificent Tasmanian landscape and a haven for various birds, mammals, reptiles (snakes), frogs and fish. Along the boardwalk we wandered, flanked by tall native Tasmanian grass species… weaving through the grasses and over footbridges that reveal Kanamaluka/River Tamar in all its glory.
Our first stop was the Tamar Islands wetlands- a unique wetland ecosystem of mudflats gouged by tidal rivulets, vast lagoons teeming with wildlife and and tiny pockets of gnarled forest on the little islands that dot the landscape. Abundant with plant and animal life, the wetlands are a magnificent Tasmanian landscape and a haven for various birds, mammals, reptiles (snakes), frogs and fish. Along the boardwalk we wandered, flanked by tall native Tasmanian grass species… weaving through the grasses and over footbridges that reveal Kanamaluka/River Tamar in all its glory.
After a good few thousand steps it was time for wine (isn’t it always?). The Tamar Valley has been named one of the world’s top 10 wine routes and wineries line each side of the River Tamar on it’s journey to the sea. Dozens of magnificent little wineries (and gin distilleries- for the gin lovers in our group) hide along the valley’s rolling banks, offering gorgeous panoramic views and just waiting for us to pull up and have a taste of their delicious vintages and breathe in the essence of the Tamar. Tamar Ridge sparkling rose… yes please! I’m taking you home!
Stopped for a quick selfie at Brady’s lookout- once a hideout for the infamous Bushranger.
The views were gorgeous up and down the Tamar River with the vista extending over 120kms to Ben Lomond massif in the south and almost all the way to the coast and the Bass Strait to the north. Viewing platforms are set right on the cliffs edge with the escarpment falling away to the river below.
Headed over the Batman bridge and on to the little seaside town of Bridport on the recommendation of friends, to the Bridport Distillery for lunch of pizza, a delicious grazing platter and to die for date and prosciutto bruschetta- and more wine/gin.
Walked down to the beach briefly but it was cold and extremely windy so we quickly headed to our last stop for the day.
Over some pretty gravelly, pot-holed narrow back roads we made our way to Bridgestowe Lavender Farm where we (perhaps unrealistically) hoped there may be some flowers even though we knew it was not lavender flowering season.
Beyond a few pots, there were none! Oh well, it was worth a try- so we settled for a lavender latte and ice cream. No dinner for us tonight!
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Green green green blue blue blue!
The sun is out and we are happy. We head for Scottsdale for a recommended scallop pie (Tassie specialty) to find the bakery no longer exists. So we find another and are very disappointed with the result. Oh well, we will try again somewhere else at a later date. Luckily, nothing else disappoints today!
We pass through the most beautiful scenic countryside… green rolling paddocked hills, dotted with sheep, cows and cute farmhouse cottages with flower laden gardens – rhododendrons, magnolias, camellias. OMG the colour! The colours just seem so intense – even the flowers are brighter- red… pink… bright yellow wattle or daffodils and jonquils line the roads or clump under the trees. We kept exclaiming- “Wow- look how green it is!” Green green green! It seems unnatural somehow… green- so bright it’s almost luminous. Like I imagine the Garden of Eden! Life abundantly.
We have a quick stop at Sideling Lookout which offers sweeping views of the town of Scottsdale and the fertile countryside. So beautiful! And we walk on the mossy grass that feels like walking on clouds.
The road has plenty of twists and turns as it winds its way through the mountains. With no internet connection we are lucky that I had read a recommendation to download offline google maps or we might have been very lost.
We stop at Little Blue Lake which is truly a unique hidden gem tucked away in the northeast region of Tasmania. Gazing at the vivid aqua-coloured waters, once again we are exclaiming, “OMG- the colour!” A relic of the regions tin mining days- the lake formed in an old tin mine hole and the striking colour of the water comes from minerals in the lakebed. Blue blue blue… again it looks unnatural (probably because it is!😆). Other worldly! And so stunning- like a glacial lake. The photos really don’t do this place justice. The water is a spectacular vivid blue which is much more impressive in person.
Our ultimate destination for the day is the Bay of Fires, easily one of Australia’s most beautiful beachside destinations known for it’s incredible coastal colour palett. Stretching for over 50 kilometres the chain of beaches, bays and coves stretches all the way from Binalong Bay in the south to Eddystone Point in the north. Granite boulders scatter the coastline lighting up the landscape in a million shades of red and orange and yellow. These wild splashes of colour provide a surreal contrast to the green weathered windswept myrtles and gums that hang onto the banks of crystal-clear turquoise waters that sparkle in the sunlight… and the sweeping powder white-sand beaches that carve the coast as far as the eye can see… it makes for a phenomenal photo backdrop and I am in my element
The ochre boulders scattered along the Bay of Fires coastline are orange due to a combination of algae and fungus known as lichens. These lifeforms live together in a symbiotic relationship and create the orange colour you see on the boulders.
You might be mistaken in thinking that the name “Bay of Fires” originates from the unique orange boulders scattered along the coast. However, the name stems from captain Tobias Furneaux, who sailed past the Bay in 1773 and named it after the hundreds of aboriginal campfires that dotted the coast. Indigenous Australians named the bay Larapuna and recognised the place as an important area for gathering, fishing and conducting ceremonies.
We just drive around the coastline stopping at the many pull-over points and accessing the beach and headlands and quickly discover that there are hundreds of beautiful rock pools surrounded by orange ochre boulders- although we couldn’t find the ‘Mermaid Pool’ that I was looking for.
We stay in Binalong Bay- a tiny town full of holiday shacks, bobbing boats, charming cafes and friendly faces- and only one restaurant… overlooking the incredible white sand beach. Here we relax and watch the sunset with a wine or two, enjoy an average dinner and head home for an early night. Tomorrow is a big day!
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It’s a daffodil kind of day
After picking up our hire car, we made our way to Cataract Gorge for the first taste of Tasmania’s panoramic beauty. It was a lovely place to spend a few hours despite the pretty constant rain.
We wandered along the edge of the gorge to the gently swaying Alexandra Bridge, suspended high above the gushing waters and jagged rocks of the South Esk river far below. It was certainly not the peaceful scene of the tourist brochures but perhaps more spectacular as due to the recent rains the water torrents were powerful. Even the walkway that would usually take you across the river was completely flooded and closed.
Cataract Gorge with Launceston in the background We marvelled at the landscape of boulders that somehow allowed plants and trees to not only grow but flourish in utterly inhospitable ground.
We discovered the Victorian garden created with ferns and exotic plants and abundant with wildlife.
Army tree Multi-coloured peacocks strutted their way through the cool gardens…
and the abundance of daffodils delighted us no end.
Overall, the perfect way to start our little Tassie adventure.
Hiding from the rain We then made our way to our accommodations for the next couple of nights- the beautiful Windarra on High, owned by friends of ours.
Windarra is the original name of this beautiful heritage listed home built in 1880 by a prominent Launceston family. The Indigenous name means west winds, which is the prevailing wind direction here.
Had a huge and interesting dinner of Venison, wallaby and berry sausages and my first glass (or was it two?) of Tassie Chardy before heading home to the comfort of the fire.
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 