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Another sunny seaside town
Left Anne back in Villefranche for a rest day and hopped on the train this morning and eventually even got a seat… maybe the first time since we’ve arrived as the trains are always so crowded. But the short half hour trip is one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe as the tracks take you along the French Riviera coastline and allow for gorgeous views of the glittering sea below virtually for the whole journey. Todays destination- Menton.
Menton is a sunny seaside town overlooking a Mediterranean bay, not too far from where we are staying… between Monarco and Italy. And seriously, just look at this view!
With architecture similar to the Cinque Terre, the facades of the buildings along the streets are coloured in all sorts of wonderful pastel shades and have a very charming Italian feel… and they cascade down the hillside onto the long sandy shores of Plage Sablettes.
Combined with its lovely old port and glorious gardens that flourish in the warm microclimate… it is a dream to photograph.
The quaint centre of this 700-year-old town is truly a delight to stroll through. Walking around, I stumbled upon baroque churches, gothic houses, a medieval town wall, and even a town castle on the waters edge. The facades of the buildings along the streets are coloured in all sorts of wonderful pastel shades… and so much yellow.
The harbour is dominated by the bell tower of the baroque Basilique St Michel Archange, a beautiful Catholic Church which was built between 1640 and the 19th century.
The facade was updated and renovated in the 19th century with smooth columns added with Corinthian capitals. In 1999 the building was proclaimed a basilica by Pope Jean-Paul II. The plaza in front of it offers stunning views of the beach. You have to take a steep climb of stairs to reach the church, but even the stairs are stunning and the view is totally worth it.
Built on the site of an old medieval castle, the haunting cemetery is strangely scenic.
I hiked up to its hilltop location which had beautiful views across Menton’s terracotta rooftops, and out across the distant mountains and Mediterranean Sea… probably the best view in Menton.
The town apparently has oh-so-delicious food and is also home to Mirazur, the number one restaurant on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list… serving creative French dishes inspired by both the sea and the mountains while overlooking the sea. Don’t think I could get in without a booking… and don’t think I could afford it anyway 🤷🏼♀️.
Menton enjoys a warm microclimate- which means warm weather all year long- that allows them to grow their world-famous lemons in the winter. For which they hold an annual festival in February. They’re said to be so sweet you don’t need to add sugar. So… here you’ll find all things lemon… from vinegar to the oh do fabulous Lemoncello.
And I did have some delicious fresh chilled ‘lemonade’ that is sold everywhere as I wandered around the street filled with quaint cafes and restaurants, which provide plenty of opportunity to enjoy the fine Menton cuisine… except I didn’t as I wasn’t feeling 100% 🤷🏼♀️
I had planned on walking around the stunning Mediterranean coastline to Roquebrune-Cap-Martin… another beautiful medieval village built on a steep slope and the village where Coco Chanel had her villa. But opted instead to go home to rest (something that I’m not very good at when I travel but it can catch up with me in the end).
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A secret place amidst the hectic glamour and glitz
Ah- the south of France! I have no doubt that every inch of France is beautiful, but the south of France somehow just sounds so romantic doesn’t it? Its many villages and hill towns- not to mention stone castles, hillside olive groves, sidewalk cafes, and lavender fields (sadly it is the wrong season for that)… are places that travel dreams are made of. Most of that’s for a little later… but for now… travelling through on the train we have glimpses of what is to come after our week in Villefranche sur Mer. Our train journey takes us past many rolling hills with little villages and steepled churches, castles, vineyards… it really reminds me of Tuscany. We pass many endless cornfields that somehow feel familiar to me…
… and I realise we are passing through Van Gogh country bought alive to me in two visits to the Van Gogh Alive experience. I could almost feel his spirit here as the train rolled on.
Anyway… after another big travel day we arrive in our little piece of the South of France… Villefranche sue Mer on the Côte d’Azur (French Riviera)… where there are beaches galore, heaps of incredible resorts and unforgettable historic attractions that gaze out over the Mediterranean.
Villefranche-sur-Mer is a secret place amidst the hectic glamour and glitz of the French Riviera. A combination of modern and ancient, and it’s nestled against the steep villa-clad hillside on the Bay of Angels. This town is an explosion of colour! Red, orange, or even yellow come to mix with the oh so blue sky and the sea for a striking contrast. One of the most picturesque small towns in the French Riviera and I immediately fell in love with this place (I feel like I’ve said this before… but it’s true 😂🤷🏼♀️).
Located between the bustling city of Nice and the uber-opulent Monaco, the whole coast road from Nice to Monaco is incredibly beautiful with views to die for! But I’ll get to that too. We did have to stop in Nice to pick up the key for our apartment and felt a little intimidated by its size and big city feel, so were very pleased to arrive in the much smaller town of Villefranche.
While it might not appear so, we are travelling on a budget and most of our hotels have been average at best (see Shepherds hut in Cochem 😂). So despite the very steep walk from the station dragging our bags, it was delightful to arrive to this view from our apartment for the next week. Sitting on our balcony we can see the beach… yachts and cruise ships coming in and stately villa’s perched on top of the green hills.
We were tired and it was late so we quickly showered and went out for a quick dinner… the exploring would come later. Being a Saturday night, the town was bustling and it was difficult to find a restaurant that could accomodate us but we eventually found a leafy little tapa’s place along a cobbled alley… enjoyed some well deserved wine (all that dragging of our bags up through railways stations and train changes and uphills is exhausting) and some delicious food and it was time to go home to bed.
Passed a pumping nightclub on the way home…
And then just as we were hopping into bed we heard the loud and distinctive bang of fireworks. What a lovely welcome out over Jean Cap Ferrat that we planned to explore tomorrow. And the perfect view from our little balcony.
The Spice Girls music was pumping from the nightclub down on the waters edge and I wondered if it would stop me sleeping but I was quickly in dreamland.
As usual I woke before sunrise… I can actually clearly see the colour gradually creeping into the sky as I lie on the sofa bed in the living room.
So I get up for my morning walk, eager to explore this new place… and each morning I head for a different part of town. Villefranche has a picturesque Old Town (Vieille Ville), built on a terrace overlooking the sea with a labyrinth of streets and laneways with never-ending steps that are perfect for exploring.
Think cobblestoned streets, pastel colored shutters complementing the colorful houses…
… sailing boats bobbing in the harbor and the relaxed atmosphere of the Mediterranean Sea.
Add in a few palm trees
and slinking cats…
… some ancient fortifications and a few canons for some history…
… and some modern sculpture for good measure.
There are none of the bright and beautiful well cared for flower boxes and street decorations of all the previous places we have visited. Here it is much more rustic and lived in… with lots of greenery… and some bougainvillea (sadly past it’s best)… perhaps due to the hotter drier climate.
I miss the flowers but it very definitely has its own charm here and I wandered aimlessly completely lost clicking away and soaking it up.
Our little tapas restaurant from our first night here 
I found this cool old passage under the buildings, the Rue Obscure, which almost felt bit creepy and has a very medieval atmosphere. Apparently it was used as a bomb shelter during the war.
And while Villefranche sur Mer is home to the second most expensive house in the world- the Villa Leopold, built on the orders of the King of Belgium, Leopold II, and worth around $750 million…
…the town still feels authentic and not like you’re living in an episode of homes of the rich and famous.
On another morning I visit the colossal Saint Elme Citadel, which is a stone fortress from the 16th century that rises up from sea level and extends up the hill and has beautiful gardens. It guards the natural harbour of Villefranche, the deepest on the Riviera, called La Port de la Darse. It’s got the best view in town, as it’s high enough to look out across the bay, the town, and the coastline of the Cote d’Azur. Perfect for sunrise!
… and it has a beautiful garden…
I also checked out the Fort du Mont Alban… a sixteenth century military stronghold on the cliff top overlooking the sea and surrounding peaks… and I’m always a sucker for high places.
Had to climb 7000 steps to get there… actually, that’s just what it felt like but it was 734. And it was definitely worth it for the spectacular views of Nice…
… Villefranche and the entirety of Jean Cap Ferrat.
Woke up one morning to the most beautiful pink sunrise…
… and headed out to the little local seafront port… delightful with crusty fishermen, actual fish in the water and lots of little colourful boats- not nearly so glitzy as many of the other Côte d’Azur harbours.
Wednesday morning we visited the weekly farmers market and picked up a few bits and pieces to have for dinner tonight as nowhere in town has the amazing view we have… so why not stay in, drink something chilled on the balcony and enjoy some local produce.
While in town for the market, we visited the 14th century Roman-style Chapel dedicated to St Peter, the Patron Saint of fishermen… and its stunning decoration by Jean Cocteau… very cute.
We walked to Jean Cap Ferrat- the little peninsula that we can see from our apartment that extends out and helps create the harbor of Villefranche. Once a fishing village, Ferrat is now considered one of the most beautiful towns in the south of France. A place of quiet elegance where time seems to slow down… full of beautiful villas and palms and surrounded by the crystal clear turquoise waters.
We strolled the gorgeous Sentier Du Littoral coastal path- a scenic coastal trail that wraps around the entire peninsula and features stunning views of the Côte d’Azur’s sparkling waters…
… rocky cliffs, vegetation and one of its most beautiful harbors.
We found a spot to lay our towels and rest on the beautiful but pretty crowded, pebbled Paloma Beach known for its views of the nearby greenery, gorgeous houses and neighbouring Bealieu-sur-Mer. As we lay on the beach listening to the sound of the lapping waves, it reminded me of being at my mum and dads place back in Sydney that always had that Mediterranean vibe.
Later continued on to Plage de Passable…
…and then back into the cute village of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat …
… with its very pretty port with many expensive looking boats where we stopped for a bite and glass of wine.
It was a long walk back to Villefranche but on the high road this time with the most spectacular views…
Looking from above our beach looked very inviting…
… and after the walk, we very definitely needed a swim. Our small seaside promenade leads onto a clean pebble beach… not sandy like at home (we’re very spoilt), but also not rocky as it is in other places- instead there is a fine gravel where you can walk freely without water shoes that you need at many Mediterranean beaches. Cool, clear and refreshing- just what we needed after a day of adventuring.
After a week here staying in our little apartment with the spectacular view, soaking up the sun, adventuring and exploring the amazing region, we are so happy that we stayed here… a little away from that glitz and glamour of Monarco or Nice. But so much life and character… gorgeous views of the glittering sea… the wonderful colours of the buildings as they cascade down the hillsides… amazing little restaurants like the little tapas bar we went to on our first night and returned to twice…
… with delicious food, our favourite wine since we left home and wonderful service especially from the beautiful young Mae who just celebrated her 21st birthday and looked after us so well. Farewell Villefranche sur Mer- you’ve been wonderful… but it’s time for new adventures… in Provence.
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Two spectacular days
Nice is another charming city in the French Riviera- the biggest and one of the most famous. This in itself made me nervous about visiting as I don’t tend to like the bigger cities… but there was intent in this visit. I had seen a restaurant on social media a while ago that appealed to me and had made a booking for lunch at Le Plongeoir… which literally translates to ‘the diving board.’ The restaurant occupies an iconic location in Nice, hovering above the sea on the famous pillar of rock and the base of the diving boards themselves, the restaurant welcomes you in this most unusual setting, steeped in history.
The colour of the water was actually pretty insane I was pretty excited about this one… and was not disappointed. I don’t think you could go anywhere with better views or location… delicious food…
awesome cocktail (couldn’t stop at one)…
… and great service. Felt very privileged as we sat and enjoyed the moments and had a very memorable lunch.
So we figured that while we were here, we may as well look around. There is more to Nice than the world-famous shoreline… it is a city filled with history, culture, and art. So we walked past the harbour…
… and of course we headed first for the beautiful Old Town (Vieux Nice)… apparently a favourite with locals and tourists alike… as there’s few things I like as much as wandering an old town… colourful facades painted in orange and yellow hues…
… winding cobblestone streets, shaded alleyways, historical buildings and churches, and delicious smelling restaurants. We certainly didn’t need to eat so we wandered around taking it all in…
Including a visit to Saint Reparate Cathedral…
and the Opera.
We particularly wanted to check out the shopping. We were both desperate to buy something cool to wear. It has been so unseasonably warm and I brought nothing summery with me, and Anne had only packed a few bits of pieces… and we had been struggling in the heat… and most shops we’d seen where we’d visited were full of new season winter clothes. Not helpful. But we had done success- we both bough white linen dresses and Anne made a couple of others purchases too.
We wandered all over the place enthralled at the stunning facades of so many of the buildings, the gorgeous squares, fountains and gardens… including the Place Massena with its hypnotic checkerboard tilework, bright red buildings around the periphery, and a large fountain.
Passed through the Jardin Albert I … a delightful green space where there is an interactive fountain/splashpad area, a fantastically imaginative playground. It was pretty cool.
We felt we couldn’t miss that world-famous shoreline and strolled along the Promenade des Anglais (the English Walkway)- a very wide boardwalk right along the Mediterranean. It extends for miles and has access points down to the beaches (which are beautiful, but rocky).
As I’m always after gorgeous views, we headed to the La Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill), first grabbing a crème brûlée ice cream that had been recommended. I wasn’t even hungry but as a crème brûlée lover, I couldn’t leave Nice without trying it, I can tell you it was to-die-for! With actual chunks of brûlée sugar in it!
We were pretty tired by this time and didn’t realise it was quite a big walk up but even though the majority of the castle has crumbled, it is worth walking up to reach the peak of this hill for the sweeping views of Nice along with the Baie de Anges.
We then had to walk back down and a couple of kilometres back to the station and then back up the hill when we arrived back in Villafranche… and we were totally exhausted. I could hardly put one foot in front of the other. Anne had the state of mind to buy some baguette and tomato’s so we could eat something for dinner when we got home- or we would have gone hungry… and I don’t think I would have cared! Nearly 20 kilometres today and I could feel every one. Bed please!
Today I had decided to go to Eze, a charming medieval town perched high on a hill over the Mediterranean, not far from Villefranche, that I had seen pictures of. I was pretty excited about this one… as I just knew I would love it! Anne was planning on having a rest day after our huge day yesterday in Nice, but she changed her mind and decided to come with me. So we donned our new pretty white linen dresses and off we went. An hour after we left home I have no doubt that she wished that she hadn’t!
We hopped off the train and somehow decided to do the walk (if I can call it that) up. It’s not really a walk… more like a hike… and it’s not really a path… more like a trail for mountain goats! The distance is about 5km but the elevation of the route is about 500m… straight up! It was incredibly rocky and difficult to navigate in places with very large steps at times and slippery loose stones.
We were taken by surprise with how difficult this ‘walk’ would be and it took us about an hour and a half… in the heat… in our new pretty white dresses 😂. At least we had the right shoes… and awesome views on the way up! (Note to self- when there’s an available bus, sometimes it would be wise to take that option).
But it was totally worth it. My heart was beating out of my chest… and not just from my lack of fitness. This place was stunning… one of the most beautiful medieval towns in France- and yes… we only visit the most beautiful ones!
And the insane views of the Mediterranean made our jaws drop.
The village itself is stunning even from the road, as you can still see the old castle walls that date back to the 12th century.
But as we were so exhausted by our ‘walk’ up the mountain, we settled in Chateau Eze’s panoramic restaurant terraces for a glass (or two) of chilled wine and gave ourselves some time to cool down and replenish before exploring the gorgeous village.
This village is like a labyrinth- as we strolled its cobblestone alleys, we found ourselves lost amidst uneven stoned streets, ancient fountains, narrow alleyways…
… ivy blanketed stone buildings…
… and old stone houses, amazing archways…
… art shops, and galleries.
… and boutiques…
… and extraordinary street-light shades.
This village is over 1,500 years old and walking around it, we could feel and see every bit of that history- kind of like you have stepped back in time… if I could just get rid of all those pesky tourists 😂
We explored the Botannical Gardens Jardin Exotique d’Eze, perched above the village on top of the mountain where over 400 Mediterranean cacti, citrus trees and tropical plants from around the world surround the castle ruins.
It felt like a little oasis, complete with many gorgeous sculptures encountered on the garden’s stone and curvy path…
… and with stunning panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the hills below.
Seriously I think it’s the most stunning garden I’ve ever seen… and it doesn’t even have flowers as such?
We stopped for lunch in a tiny vine covered alleyway restaurant fir another wonderful memory.
Really I was totally seduced by the beauty of Eze, and it was easy to lose track of time. This is the first place on this trip that I really wished I could stay longer. Would love to have been able to wander the intricate passages at sunrise… alone with my thoughts… and camera (iPhone) of course.
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Too rich and famous
Monaco oozes wealth, glamour, and glitz. It’s where you’ll see some of the most expensive cars in the world (we did), drink some of the most expensive coffee in the world (we didn’t) and see the biggest super yachts in Europe (we did). Monaco beams with sun-kissed Mediterranean weather, a celebrity status casino, resorts, groomed gardens and beautiful beaches. From shopping (or window shopping depending on your budget) in the streets of Monte Carlo, to attending iconic events like the Grand Prix, there’s perhaps no place like Monaco.
Monaco is not a part of France although you’d wonder why it has retained its sovereign status since 1861, when it is bordered by France on three sides and the Mediterranean on one. But it is a seperate country- my number 50… and hopefully many more to come as my goal is 70 by 70. So for this reason alone we had to visit! And we figured that even if you’re not a billionaire with a megayacht, it would still be a very interesting place.
It is the world second smallest country… covering a mere 485 acres, but it packs a lot in its small square mileage and truly feels like a place that isn’t even located on Earth. Monaco is the world’s richest country due to its lack of income tax and residency requirements… and also has the highest number of millionaires per capita in the world… which you can see just by looking around. It’s also has the worlds lowest poverty rate… is the most densely populated country in the world… and had the highest number of police officers per capital (The country is packed with fascinating statistics such as these!)
So… we started the day literally being jammed like sardines onto the train. I’m surprised Anne could even breathe (reaching, as she does, only to most people’s shoulders!). The trains around here (French Riviera) are really crap and I totally cannot understand why in such a crowded tourist area they don’t either put on more trains or add extra carriages as every train we have caught has been pretty much the same. Bad start to the day!
Monarco is one country that can apparently be explored on foot entirely in a day- so we thought we’d find out. Our plan was to head straight to ‘The Rock’ which is the oldest section of Montecarlo, arguably the most picturesque and it’s quite simply a maze of alleyways perched on a rocky promontory rising steeply from the sea on both sides. It is also home to the Prince’s Palace… and our Monaco trip wouldn’t be complete without seeing where the royalty lives… would it? The palace was built in the 12th century and is the home of the current prince of Monaco.
So we left home in time to get to the palace in time to see the changing of the guards… which we thought would be an entertaining sight. But neither of us seemed to be able to get any internet reception to find our way there (it was super confusing just getting out of the train station)… so we got lost and subsequently missed it. No trumpeting, drumming and marching for us today! 😩
It’s a steep climb up to the palace along the Rampe de la Major, but we were certainly rewarded with some of the most incredible views of the city… ummm… country and over the Mediterranean Sea from up high.
As we’d missed the Changing of the Guard, the palace was not really our thing…
… so we just wandered the pretty streets of the old town which are filled with cafes and restaurants… and about a thousand souvenir shops- it felt like a real tourist trap.
I had heard of a really cool museum here and we strolled around looking for it. Wandered into a really beautiful park… filled with sculptures
… Jardins de Sainte-Martin that offers some incredible views over Port de Fontvieill with those luxurious yachts that Montecarlo is famous for… that iconic view of Monaco.
We were tired and looked for a seat to rest and eat some lunch which we had bought with us (yes we’re on a budget)… but there were so many tourists that a seat was impossible and we settled for some hard concrete steps that were at least in the shade. Yes it is still unseasonably hot and I still have nothing to wear!
The park is also apparently opposite the Cathedrale de Monarco… a stunning white Roman-Byzantine style building that we wanted to see (we both love visiting the churches and cathedrals)…
… but I hadn’t done my research properly and was confused about where it was and we missed it. So far… not so good!
We did find the museum we had been looking for earlier- pretty hard to miss actually but then, so was the cathedral. The Temple of the Sea, or better known as The Oceanographic Museum, located on a rocky cliff is one of the oldest aquariums in the world. The museum sits 90m above sea level and took 11 years to construct just the foundations to keep it from toppling into the water.
It focuses on everything involving the ocean and marine science and there are 3 aquariums inside with over 6,000 marine creatures across 100 pools.
We decided to catch the bus down as we had already walked about 10kms… and as we knew that our itinerary wouldn’t be complete without visiting the famous Monte Carlo Casino, we hopped off there. Fun fact: locals aren’t allowed to gamble in the casino, it’s considered to be illegal! Instead, the casino is entirely for visitors to Monaco. The Monte Carlo Casino is said to be the most popular casino in the entire world. This is probably because it’s featured in quite a few of the James Bond films, among other pop culture phenomena.
The casino dates back to the 19th century and is absolutely breathtaking on the outside, as I’m sure it is on the inside… although we didn’t even attempt to go in.
There was a constant procession of ridiculous and expensive cars coming and going from the Hotel de Paris in front of the casino… Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Porches, Audis, BMWs, Maseratis, Aston Martins… you name it! Just a magnet for 6-digit priced vehicles. I couldn’t personally tell the difference (although Anne could) but even I could tell they were probable worth more than my house and I know nothing about cars.
We then walked down towards the harbour, via a beautiful cascade of buildings everywhere we looked…
…to gape in awe at the enormous yachts… one even had a helipad complete with helicopter on board.
More than just super yachts, the harbour itself is very beautiful and is one of the most famous harbours in the world.
We were tired, thirsty and hot and thought it was wine time. Found a lovely little restaurant overlooking the harbour but they wouldn’t let us in just for a drink. They suggested we try the yacht club (quite a walk back in the direction we had come) but when we got there we were told it is members only. Trudged back down to the next suggested place and once again it was for meals only. No one wanted to give these two grannies a drink! Too tired and fed up to keep trying we found an ice cream place that actually served wine and sat by the harbour to rest and replenish. Our plan was to stay for dinner but both of us were really over it and we decided to head back to Villefranche sur Mer.
So… with buildings each more stunning than the last… manicured gardens filled with public art projects… wide boulevards along a waterfront vista rivaling any in the world… palatial homes, expensive cars, yachts filling the harbor… this is pretty much anyone’s definition of paradise. But honestly… I absolutely did not like it. Is it ok to say that? Am I the only one (although Anne felt the same)? Everything I read talked about how amazing everything was… and I get it… because it is. But it also isn’t! It’s noisy, fast-paced… hectic. A bit like the Gold Coast on steroids meets Europe. But beyond that, there is just something that you feel at every moment here… this is a place in which money rules, and where only the wealthy truly matter. The opulence everywhere you looked felt kind of immoral if I can use that word… at the very least it messed with my head. There are different kinds of beauty I guess… and this just wasn’t my kind!
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Why not?
Since my son Chris thought all the places we were going were pretty boring 😂, he sent me a friends recommendation to visit Chamonix and go on the Aguille du midi. So we thought… why not? There was nothing like that planned in our itinerary and it was not too far away. Always looking for a new adventure and experiences. e booked a bus for the following morning and we were off.
Trying to capture the stunning beauty as the bus sped along was difficult and frustrating.
Sheer rockfaces , waterfalls, snow capped mountains with low lying cloud, cute little Swiss-looking villages and lush green green green meadows with clear blue skies. Considering the weather was looking iffy and had poured last night, once again we were blessed.
We arrived in Chamonix… a stunning mountain resort town nestled in a steep valley between mountains in the Alps of France. The scenery around this little alpine town is phenomenal with views of majestic snow capped peaks including Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak… awe-inspiring glaciers (The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is the largest glacier in France, 7km long and 200m deep) and alpine meadows.
There’s no doubt that the biggest attraction in Chamonix is the mind-blowing nature around it but the town itself is also really gorgeous.
We enjoyed a little walk around Chamonix’s historic center… brimming with cute sidewalk cafes, restaurants, bakeries, artisanal food shops and stylish alpine hotels. Walk along the bustling pedestrian streets…
…visited a little church in an idyllic setting…
… and found the flower laden main square lined with quaint historical buildings with the Arve River running through its centre.
The river is fed by the glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif and you can hear it gushing as you wander the streets and even feel how cold it is when standing close by! So picturesque!
We then headed off to the Aiguille du Midi that had been recommended… the highest cable car in France! As we rose steeply into the mountain I was awestruck by the grandeur of the Alps.
The Aiguille du Midi leaves from the center of Chamonix. You start rising sharply up the mountain and feel like you’re suspended in air, about to skim the side of the mountain. The clouds drifted across a blue sky and cast shadows on the sparkling white snow. The granite Mont Blanc towered over the bustling village below, and as we reached the summit, it was as if we were viewing a dollhouse town, complete with a train set, from high above.
This cable car holds the world record for the highest vertical ascent! At the half-way point you’ll arrive at Plan de l’Aiguille, where we took a second lift to the top.
We travelled up to a staggering altitude of 3842m. It feels wildly unearthly for your body up there and bought back memories of treking in Peru at up to 5000m. It’s hard to breathe even with a little exertion.
Literally. Mont Blanc is the highest point in Europe at a staggering 4,807 meters (15,778 feet) tall. And this is the closest you can get to it without having to climb it! Aiguille du Midi means “needle of the Mid-day” and looks a bit like a needle pointing up to the sky.
The views are simply breathtaking. The illusive snow-capped peaks and jagged mountains are some of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen. Next minute… whiteout! Next minute… blue sky! The weather up here is extremely unpredictable.
Had we arrived a little earlier there’s the amazing opportunity to take the panoramic gondola that crosses from Aguille du Midi in France to the Pointe Helbronner in Italy. What an adventure that would have been… a gondola between countries… but sadly not to be (but probably good for my anxiety that can get a little out of control on these occasions). There was not enough time to get across and then back on the last of the day which leaves Italy at 2.30 🤷🏼♀️.
We did “Step Into the Void” a five-sided glass box at an altitude of 3,842 meters overlooking the mountain chasms. It felt a little like we were suspended in thin air over the Alps! Maybe not one for the faint-hearted (me), but I couldn’t miss the opportunity and the guaranteed awe-inspiring views.
We returned back to the beautiful square and found a restaurant… it was definitely wine time. We sat and had a few glasses, ate some delicious French onion soup and whiled away the time until our bus would leave just after 8pm to take us back home for our last night in Annecy. Big travel day again tomorrow with a huge change of scenery as we hear to the Côte d’Azur.
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There’s just something about swans…
Another day another storybook town… and our journey to get there was just as lovely. While it included four trains and three changes… potentially a nightmare… it was relaxing (Swiss trains are the best) and the hours went very quickly travelling through stunning Swiss countryside with its castles and villages, bright green pastures, vineyards, lakes and mountain backdrops. It is difficult to take pictures out of the train windows but I couldn’t help but keep clicking away.
Overwhelmed again by the beauty of where we are now staying- Annecy… another one of the most beautiful towns in France and perhaps one of the most romantic spots on Earth, nestled in the heart of the towering French Alps just over 20 miles from Geneva. Annecy has breathtaking views with its mountain backdrop and a crystal-clear blue lake (apparently the cleanest in Europe) in the foreground… a vision of pure tranquillity.
Nicknamed the Venice of the Alps because of its beauty and canals that help to give it a Venice-like feel. It is a perfect blend of nature and medieval architecture.
The old town itself is also ridiculously beautiful…
… but it’s a very different type of beauty than in Colmar- not in your face but quieter… softer… more peaceful. No more half timbered buildings but very historic and once again, looks like it’s straight out of a storybook…
… divided by little canals and tranquil streams that flow from the intensely blue Lake…
…small bridges lined with blooming flowers…
… colourful homes…
… and tiny shops with wares spilling out into the picture-perfect streets. The city is full of historical and architectural treasures…
The old bridges…
… fortresses, historical religious buildings and churches (there are several), give the impression of going back in time.
Wandering the cobbled streets at all different times of the day, we were enchanted by the winding canals that Annecy is known for… lined with colourful houses and pretty flowers… and the smell of fresh-baked breads and croissants that wafted down the street.
The Pont de Amours is a symbolic place of Annecy… a small wooden bridge overhanging a canal and overlooking the lake, it is apparently the meeting point of lovers. Legend has it that people who kiss on this bridge stay together for life. But no kissing here sadly…
If you’ve seen one photo of Annecy, it’s probably of Palais de l’Isle: this tiny, 12th century storybook kind of castle is located on a tiny island in the middle of the Thiou River and is Annecy’s best-known building.
While the structure has served many purposes since it was built in the 12th century… a residence and a courthouse… it is perhaps most notorious for being a prison- that was its function during times as far apart as the 13th century and World War II, and at many points in between! Doesn’t sound quite as romantic as it looks! Now it’s a museum exhibiting Annecy’s heritage.
What would a fairy-tale town be without a castle? The magnificent Chateau d’Annecy dates back to the 12th century and overlooks the landscape from a hill. It once served as the home to the Counts of Geneva- today, it’s a museum and home to a panoramic view over the town.
Of course I walked the Old Town at sunrise…
… and it was picture perfect.
But it’s not all about the Old Town. Considered one of the most beautiful and purest lakes in Europe, Lake Annecy is the second largest lake in France… a true marvel of nature and the towns most famous landmark. Surrounded by the mountains, the landscape is simply breathtaking and it’s part of UNESCO World Heritage List since 2008. I walked here at sunrise…
… and the colour was just amazingly turquoise… you just think it isn’t real. I was mesmerised once again by the swans gliding along on the lake…
… there’s just something about swans (although I do remember my daughter jade being attacked by one when she was a child so she may not agree with me). But to me they somehow just symbolise peace and elegance and grace. Just perfect for this place.
I came back later in the day with Anne with a loose plan to do one of the lake cruises offered but decided instead to walk the path part of the way around the lake. It was so lovely… a beautiful sunny autumn day, clear turquoise water… pure tranquility.
On our last full day, I rose early as usual to go down to one of the regular market mornings when the streets and even the bridges throughout the Old Town swell with stalls hawking their wares…
…anything from fresh locally made nougat, sooooo many cheeses, fresh bread and pastries, seafood, fruit and vegetable, rotisserie cooked chicken and other meats… through to jewellery and clothing. I was captivated by the atmosphere.
There were things I didn’t understand and things I did but had never seen before. I wanted to buy it all… and would have if we had more time… but as it was, I left with a few pieces of fruit.
I did manage to find myself a chai latte… my first since leaving home… and as I ate the best almond croissant I had ever tasted for breakfast and wandered the bustling market in the beautiful old town, I felt the weight and blessing of my privilege. Sometimes it’s the little moments that have a huge impact.
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Belle’s hometown
It rained and thundered all night… and was still raining in the morning and was expected to continue until lunchtime. No sunrise walk for me, but more disappointing was that we had booked a Four Wonders of Alsace tour for today.
The Alsace wine route (Route du Vin Alsace) is a designated section of the Alsace region that passes through some of the best wine-producing towns in France. Famed for its scenic vineyards and medieval villages, it is wonderful mix of French and German culture and food, with its wine also characterised by French and a German influences. And those flower boxes I’m obsessed with… apparently each town seems to be in competition with each other to have the best flowers. Flowers are everywhere… spilling out of flower boxes, lining the streets and adorning doors and windows.
Since we have decided to forgo the stress of driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road, we took the opportunity of a small group tour to explore some of this area. We were picked up in a very comfortable Mercedes minivan and headed off with a handful of others to our first destination. The weather was misty but the rain seemed to have stopped.
When I arrived in Colmar I thought it would be hard to imagine a place more picture-perfect. But only minutes away, Eguisheim is a village that outdid itself in charm and beauty. It is said that it was the inspiration for Belles hometown in Beauty and the Beast- and it certainly felt like we had stepped into the middle of a fairy tale (I know I keep saying that).
Wherever I looked, I was spellbound!
We visited the church of the only Alsatian popes- Pope Leon IX (1049) who was committed to reforming the church and apparently instrumental in preventing the marriage of priests. Good job Leon 🙄. A beautiful chapel bursting with a diverse mix of contrasts and colours.
Our second stop… another storybook town to discover was the medieval town of Ribeauvillè. Surrounded by ancient walls, vineyards, mountains, and pretty streets, Ribeauville is such a picturesque town, the first thing you notice as you enter the gates is how vibrant and colourful everything is. Of course the area is known for their colourful half-timbered houses with flowers dripping from every windowsill, cobblestone streets, and charming alleyways.
What puts Ribeauville over the top is the castles perched up on the hill overlooking the town, which is just so stunning!
It is also the home of the story of the Pied Piper…
… and to several wonderful cheese shops , in one of which we had the opportunity to sample many of their delicious (cow and goat) cheeses which included tomato pesto, stinging nettles, truffle, nuts and other interesting ingredients.
Just a short drive from Ribeauville and we arrive at ithe enchanting town of Riquewihr. We took a stroll and admired once again the beauty of the half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets and fairytale setting.
Mostly every windowsill is covered with flowers and kooky adornments… and many of the houses are even more brightly coloured than the other towns we have visited.
We continue through the narrow cobblestone streets and came across the 13th century Dolder tower. Standing tall, and of course festooned with flowers, the tower has been protecting its village for more than seven centuries!
We walk to the edge of the town and you can see the vineyards literally surround the town- so pretty.
Our guide then takes us up for a stunning view over the town and the surrounding countryside and vineyards.
Next stop was Kaysersberg… another one of the most beautiful villages in France.
Town view with the ornate sandstone Église Sainte-Croix 12th century church in the background 
The town’s name means “emperor’s mountain” in German… and Kaysersberg actually belonged to Germany for 48 years–between the Franco-Prussian War and the First World War. And this Alsatian village was the birthplace of Nobel Peace Prize winner Albert Schweitzer. And also the brothers Grimm.
Home of the Bothers Grimm This was also the town when Anthony Bourdain had his 5 star hotel (where he sadly took his life a few years ago) and 2 Michelin star restaurant.
Visited a church that had a gorgeous cross that I would have loved for my collection- although I don’t think it would have fit in my little granny flat. But I have been unable to find one to add to my wall at this stage.
We walked through town and came to a 16th-century bridge (Pont Fortifie), offering a stunning view of the Weiss River.
We walked through town and came to a 16th-century bridge (Pont Fortifie), offering a stunning view of the Weiss River.
In the distance, we could catch a glimpse of the Château de Kaysersberg, a castle in ruins.
Our last stop for the day was to a local wine cave to taste some of the local wines from Cremánt to Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. A long but awesome day so we decided to stay in our apartment for the evening and eat a lovely fresh baguette with some of the delicious cheese we bought in Ribeauville.
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Rapunzel, Rapunzel, let down your hair….
OMG- I am like a mad woman running around, smiling like the Cheshire Cat and exclaiming incoherently. Anne just kind of follows me peacefully around like her usual calm, angelic self but I have no doubt she is internally rolling her eyes.
From the moment I stepped foot in Colmar, one of Alsace’s most famous towns, I was smitten. Colourful half-timbered buildings that looked like gingerbread houses come to life lining twisting cobblestones streets…
… colourful wooden window shutters…
… flower boxes and street gardens spilling over literally everywhere with the colours of the rainbow…
… even a tranquil river (strangely bright green apparently due to a climate protest) flows through its medieval streets.
Add in French bakeries, wine tastings, boutique shops…
… and restaurants…
… and it would be seriously hard to imagine a place more picture-perfect.
Wandering its streets really is like stepping into a fairy-tale. There’s several turrets which would be just perfect for Rapunzel to let down her hair from…
… tiny cottages that would make the ideal home for seven dwarfs…
… and a candy-coloured bakery that Hansel and Gretel would love to get their teeth into.
But in a town full of beautiful things, I would have to say that Petite Venise is the most beautiful.
This group of half-timbered buildings lining the beautiful canals just oozes charm and feels purpose-built for tourism though, in reality, it’s looked much the same way for centuries (minus the heart shaped padlocks clipped to all the bridges).
I’m sure this is a big part of the reason that Colmar is considered one of the most beautiful cities in France. And we have three wonderful nights here.
While oohing and aahing we notice the most impossibly cute flower festooned little restaurant sitting right on the most picturesque canal. It is not open and I speak to an impossibly cute young waiter who tells me they don’t take reservations and we will just have to wait in line… he advised coming early. Anne decides to just stay while I run around and take another thousand pictures. Eventually they open and we pretty much get our choice of tables overlooking the canal. Such a magical experience with yummy food, including my first crème brûlée for this trip (my favourite dessert) and the most delicious Riesling we have had so far.
Apparently during Christmas, this area of Colmar turns into a holiday wonderland… as they take their Christmas decorating very seriously. In the picturesque streets, the succession of stalls, Christmas decorations and lights sweep you up in the magic of the Christmas season and it has been voted the best Christmas Market in France. I would love to come back for this genuinely exceptional Christmas experience one day!
But no point thinking of the future when I am in paradise now.
So many gorgeous details everywhere that I really love… from the stunning forged iron signs for the shops and restaurants… carved details in the timber of the half-timbered houses… historic lace balconies… hand painted details… to strange and random little windows…
… an enchanting carousel…
… beautiful church doors…
… and weird kitchy sort of ornaments (even big teddy bears) hanging outside many buildings and I’m not sure if they are awful or cute… or maybe both 😂🤷🏼♀️.
And I am totally obsessed with the window boxes so full of flowers and greenery that you wonder how they grow in such a small space.
On our last evening we take a little canal cruise. And, yes, a canal cruise in Colmar isn’t quite the same as a gondola ride in Venice- but it was a lovely way to relax and enjoy a slightly new perspective on the gorgeous architecture and green nature in Colmar’s La Petite Venise!
Canal cruises here take place in delightful little flat-bottomed wooden boats…
… that glide through the canals while a guide shares the history and charming details of this fairy tale village.
And it was just as lovely as it sounds as long as you duck to get under a couple of the bridges… and stop talking in the residential ‘silent zone’ (oops… be quiet Angela 😂) so as to not upset particularly grumpy neighbours (yes, people actually get to live here)!
Got up in the early morning again but a little too late for the beautiful pink sunrise that presented itself but it was still golden…
…and I could almost have Petit Venice to myself except for a few people rushing to work and some school children. The fairy-tale felt very real with perfect reflections at this time of day in the still waters of the canals.
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A tick off the (very long) bucket list…
After breakfast and an emotional farewell as we left family and friends behind, we headed off towards a new adventure… our shortest travel day of the whole trip, only one hour away. We enjoyed the stunning river views… with castles, churches and vineyards everywhere. You can certainly tell we’re in wine country.
Not the best photos taken through the trains windows Our destination- Cochem… a tiny town couched in the high, vine-clad slopes of the Moselle Valley that I had seen a picture of years ago and had immediately added it to my (very long) bucket list.
There may not be a lovelier scene in Germany than Cochem. The town of half-timbered houses, winding cobblestone streets and medieval gates is on a loop in the river, under the steady watch of the Romantic medieval Reichsburg castle… and once again makes you feel like you’ve stepped into a fairy-tale. I get the feeling I’m going to be saying that a lot as we continue on our journey! This castle is Cochem’s crowning glory, rebuilt in a fairytale style in the 1870s. No matter which route you take into Cochem your gaze will be drawn to this fantasy-like sight and its giant four-storey octagonal tower far above the river. The castle goes back to the start of the 12th century.
The effort to walk to the castle was quite intense, especially in the heat because it is located at the top of a steep outcrop… but walk we did.
And once at the Reichsburg Castle, the views of Cochem and the Mosel river were spectacular.
Back down again and we wandered through the town itself… a stereotypical fairy tale German village that oozes cuteness with its overhanging buildings, small and charming little boutique storefronts and medieval clock towers, city walls, and wooden timbered houses. Altschadt- pressed against the Moselle by the soaring valley walls, Cochem’s old town has undeniable charm and I just love the old towns.
Tracing the sloped alleys are gabled, half-timbered houses, several storeys high and topped with Moselle slate tiles.
The best example of these is in the old Marktplatz (or central square)… the centre of German cuteness…
… along with the Baroque townhall and flower laden window boxes.
A lot of the city’s wall has survived, including three of four of the 14th-century gates that serve as a passage into the city… all testifying to an eventful past when Cochem was an Imperial Estate. One in particular is the Endert gate Tower, with its adjoining Guard House dating back to 1332, and Martins Gate that was built a few years later… and then there’s the Fuchsloch (fox hole), a tiny passage leading down to the Moselle promenade and the city’s smallest gate.
We strolled along the streets of the old town and then down to the flower-festooned Mosel Promenade, packed with restaurants, shops, coffee houses, winemakers, and cake shops… which offered us the perfect opportunity to indulge in a glass of Riesling in a little vine-clad cafe while taking in the amazing views of the river and it’s slow traffic gliding by.
It looked so relaxing and we had really enjoyed our Rhine cruise the other day, so we decided to embark on a river cruise boat… chose a spot on the deck to sit, enjoy the view and enjoy the local wine once again. What is not to like about that?
We then walked up for the ultimate view of Cochem Castle on its high roost and then to the bridge for another superb vantage point.
We took the Cochem Sesselbahn, a steep gondola chairlift to the lookout point, where at 255 metres there are fantastic views of the loop in the Moselle, the precipitous vine-covered valley walls and Cochem… including the castle.
We then headed back to the old town and found another interesting looking vine clad multi- levelled restaurant complete with hanging wine barrels to have some dinner.
A quick look at the castle by night…
… before heading back to our ‘shepherds hut’ to sleep. We had chosen this place to compensate for the extravagance of the last few days… but this was next level 😂. A camping ground, share bathroom which was miles away (a bit of a disaster for me as I’m taking fluid tablets to try to keep my swollen ankles under control), no water in the hut itself and tiny narrow bunk beds. Don’t think we’ll be doing that again in a hurry!
I rose early after a pretty crappy nights sleep and decided to go for my sunrise walk. Once again- lots of mist but no sun… which was kind of cool anyway to see the castle surrounded by mist.
Walked to the other side of the river for another awesome view of the castle and colourful buildings lining the river…
…and watched the river cruise boats start arriving for the day…
… before heading to the station to continue our adventure. Farewell Germany… it’s been wonderful. France here we come!
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These are the hands…
We woke to a cool and misty morning… no sunrise for me on my morning walk today… and certainly no view up to the Dracenfels.
Today we head to Bad Ems… the town where the wedding will be held. On the way, the amazing Klaus (a true gentleman) took us to Sayn Castle to see a delightful butterfly garden. We walked in the midst of a tropical flora of palm trees, banana trees and blooming orchids with hundreds of beautiful exotic butterflies flying around us.
Bridges led over densely overgrown pools where turtles and koi romp.
Stunning colourful tropical birds…
… and quail (with tiny babies)…
… scurried through the palm and fern fronds and we even discovered a large iguana.
And it was like a dream when one of the big blue morpho’s landed on me.
The spectacular spa town of Bad Ems on the River Lahn, surrounded on all sides by the Nassau Nature Park, is Germany’s answer to Nice… where grand spa buildings and perfectly manicured gardens line the banks of the River.
It is apparently the place to go for modern medical marvels, natural remedies and Asian healing methods… as well as relaxation. And weddings!
Bad Ems, sometimes called “The Imperial Spa” was one of Germany’s most famous bathing resorts in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Kings, tsars, emperors, politicians, musicians and writers flocked here to enjoy this elegant town with its curative mineral and thermal springs. Boasting no fewer than 15 mineral springs, which are still used to treat respiratory diseases, the gastrointestinal tract, allergies and cardiovascular disorders and for improving blood circulation.
Had a little window of opportunity before a pre wedding ‘BBQ’ planned for tonight, and had noticed a couple of small lookouts on the ridge behind our hotel. So, of course I had to climb it… and it was well worth the effort to enjoy the magnificent panarama down to the river and over the town.
Had a quick walk around the town before heading back to our grand and elegant hotel to prepare for the evenings festivities.
We sat outdoors at a stunningly decorated long table for the most sumptuous feast. It may have been called a BBQ but unlike any BBQ I have ever attended (and certainly not your typical Aussie barby)… and with a generous side of cocktails and Riesling.
Woke up early and went for my usual sunrise walk… but once again, no sunrise to be seen as the area was enveloped in mist…
…always a good omen for the coming day. We all breakfasted together and then while Ina prepared for her coming nuptials we decided it was the perfect time for another walk around town (to walk off some of what we had eaten last night and what we knew was coming later in the day)…
… and to visit the spa for a relaxing hour or two.
And finally it was time for the wedding… the reason we found ourselves in Germany when the trip was originally planned for France.
From the beginning it was perfection! The small outdoor area where the ceremony was to be held looked so beautiful with a white carpet sprinkled with rose petals and showcasing spectacular floral decorations.
My precious friend Anne… looking stunning… walked her kilted son ‘down the aisle’ led by a piper.
Beautiful Ina and Klaus followed and the ceremony began… and tears flowed. Every detail was thoughtful and heart warming… from the mixing of sands from several important places in their journey together to the tying of hands or ‘hand fasting’ as it is known. Handfasting is a celtic ritual in which the hands are tied together to symbolize the union of two faithful souls. This cord is strong enough to hold them together during times of struggle yet flexible enough to allow for individuality and personal growth. As their hands were bound together, so shall their lives be bound as one. I loved the symbolism and the words of the poem read by the celebrant…
“These are the hands of your best friend, young and strong and full of love for you, that are holding yours on your wedding day, as you promise to love each other today, tomorrow and forever.
These are the hands that will work alongside yours, as you build your future together.
These are the hands that will passionately love you and cherish you through the years and with the slightest touch, will comfort you like no other.
These are the hands that will hold you when fear or grief fills your mind.
These are the hands that will countless times wipe the tears from your eyes, tears of sorrow and tears of joy.
These are the hands that will give you strength when you need it, support and encouragement to pursue your dreams, and comfort you through difficult times.
And lastly, these are the hands that even when wrinkled and aged, will still be reaching for yours, still giving you the same unspoken tenderness with just a touch.”
Very touching and romantic… as were their individual vows. My tears (and others) flowed… and stupidly I hadn’t thought to bring tissues 🤷🏼♀️.
We had drinks on a gorgeous leafy garden terrace with a stunning view over the old historical part of Bad Ems and the Lahn River… listening to tunes by an acoustic pop duo Neuton.
There was a little dancing…
Here Tim and Ina cut the cake…
… which we enjoyed, among many other delicious goodies while they disappeared to have photos taken. While we were sitting and enjoying the ambience Anne realised the zip on her beautiful dress had split (too much delicious food even for someone who usually doesn’t eat much) and so we dashed back to our room for her to make a quick costume change 😂.
Eventually we all made our way to the magnificent Renaissance Marmorsaal or ‘Marble Hall’ with its wall paintings, chandeliers and columns made of Lahn valley marble… absolutely spectacular!
for another sumptuous six course meal…
… and two wonderful heartfelt speeches by Klaus and beautiful Anne. So heartwarming to see how these families envelopes this couple with love. And very special to be included in this wonderful event.
And then it was time for dancing and cocktails… and more dancing…
… but not for long for these sixty something years olds. After a long but wonderful day, a soft bed definitely beckoned and we were both quickly in the land of nod.
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 