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It’s a long way to the top
I always love Europe… the history, culture, Medieval castles, charming cobblestone villages, amazing churches, captivating cities, idyllic scenery and golden beaches, fantastic food and plentiful wine. But I’ve never been to Portugal… until now. And I’m thrilled … and looking forward to the whitewashed walls, narrow laneways and seemingly endless blue skies of summertime Portugal… one of the sunniest countries in Europe, with over 3000 hours of sunshine per year on average. Sounds like heaven!
We’re starting in Lisbon- one of the world’s most scenic capital. I have heard so many good things about this place and I love it at first sight. Seven iconic hills overlook its postcard-perfect panorama of cobbled alleyways, stunning red roof vistas, white-domed cathedrals and grand civic squares- a captivating scene built over centuries. And it’s not just a city… it’s a feeling. It’s the sound of the trams rattling through the narrow streets…
… that first bite of a warm pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart to you)… the golden light reflecting off the Tagus River…
…the charm of old buildings and their stunning azuelo tiles with endless stories to tell… be still my beating heart.
But I’m not entirely sure if that beating heart is my excitement… or all those bloody hills… and stairs. They really are no joke and make a 10-minute walk in Google maps feel like you’re trekking Mt Everest. It’s a long way to the top and I’m feeling every step! Especially dragging our bags in the heat on arrival as our Bolt (Uber) couldn’t drive into the area we are staying as the streets are too narrow and there are too many stairs. But I guess it is good training for our upcoming Camino hike and I know that the best way to really get to know any city is to walk it… its quiet side streets and cute corridors…
… and to the many spectacular miradouros (viewpoints to you). And Oh my goodness, the views everywhere make it all worthwhile… terracotta roofs, many churches and cathedrals, all the way to the Tagus River.
Sunrises. Sunsets.
And I’ve always been a sucker for a beautiful view. Especially with a glass of wine in hand.
We are staying in Alfama- one of the oldest and cutest parts of the city, which really is maze-like… with lots of pedestrian stairways and steep, narrow cobblestone alleyways, tons of small neighbourhood cafes…
… and lovely restaurants, grocery stores, and whitewashed houses decorated with the most gorgeous tiles, wrought-iron balconies and laundry strung from the windows and window sills dripping with bright flowers.
How could we not fall in love with it and its village atmosphere and local vibes without the tourist gloss. And luckily, Google Maps has it pretty much all figured out as directions have never really been my forte! Thank God for that technology that is now so easily accessible.
From the moment we were dropped off by our Bolt, it was obvious something was going on in the the narrow alleyways we were dragging our suitcases through. I eventually googled to find that for the entire month of June, Lisbon celebrates its biggest festival in honour of the city’s patron saint, Saint Anthony (also somehow known as the Lisbon Sardine Festival- not exactly sure what the relationship between the two is. Maybe Saint Anthony liked sardines 😂🤷🏼♀️). At the heart of the celebrations, Alfama’s narrow streets are the centre of the festivities… filled with colour… balconies, doorways and winding alleyways are brightened with paper garlands, lanterns and multicoloured flags. And at night the narrow streets fill with people celebrating together… drinking, dancing, music everywhere… lively street parties and the unmistakable scent of grilled sardines. Stalls pop up on street corners, serving beer, shots of ginjinha (local cherry liqueur) in chocolate cups, soft drinks, and plenty of home-cooked snacks. There are parades and apparently each year, even a big group wedding.
We walked up the many stairs to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia- one of the many viewpoints in this hilly city. Found a lovely little cafe overlooking the view and relaxed over a glass of ‘green’ wine and some regional cheese. We then wandered around the miradouro… flanked by the Church of Santa Luzia whose walls have two beautiful azulejo panels painted on them.
Pink and red roses and bougainvillea cover the entire terrace… just stunning.
And then we were off exploring the streets of Alfama before finding a tiny local restaurant, sat in tiny stools balancing on the cobbles and ate some basic but very tasty local seafood before heading off to bed
And did I mention street parties earlier? The LOUD music was still going when I woke just after 2am (thanks jet lag) and finally stopped soon after 4… I was still awake btw.
Day 2 we head to Lisbons most popular attraction… the Castelo de Sao Jorje which sits on the highest hill in Lisbon… above the beautiful Alfama district with one of the most beautiful views in Lisbon from the terrace. Only walls and courtyards remain today and we climbed up and down all the ramparts and admired the many gorgeous but very noisy peacocks.
We wander Downtown and see the main square Rossio, and took our time to appreciate the ambiance, the architecture, the beautiful Portuguese cobblestone work and the stunning jacaranda trees that frame the most iconic buildings, so reminiscent of home in the springtime.
We couldn’t miss the stunning and unique architecture of the Santa Justa lift… one of the truly unique tourist attractions of Lisbon- apparently it has an amazing view from the top, but as gorgeous views are a dime a dozen in Lisbon we couldn’t see the point of paying for one.
We continued down the bustling Rua Augusta to the gates of the city… the stunning Arch of Rua Augusta that was built to commemorate Lisbon’s triumph over the 1755 earthquake.
Through the arches is the Praca do Comercio… Lisbon’s most beautiful square and was once the site of Lisbon’s Royal Palace. Rebuilt after the earthquake, today, three sides of the square are surrounded by earthquake-resistant buildings. They are yellow and white and flaunt the most beautiful arches.
We strolled Chiado’s staircases and alleyways that showcase the quintessential charm of Lisbon.
Nestled in the historic district, it is known for its quaint houses with colourful tiled facades adorned with blooming flowers…
… and vibrant street art…
… and a tranquility away from the bustling more touristy city hotspots. More sweeping views of the city, including the iconic rooftops and the mesmerising Tagus River. The atmosphere was alive with the sounds of locals and the faint strumming of traditional fado music in nearby cafes, providing a taste of Portuguese culture. We tried to stop for lunch in a little restaurant that looked cute and authentic but they had even shut off their waiting list.
We climbed the steep cobblestone streets of bohemian Bairro Alto to visit the lavish Sao Roque Church and take in more stunning Lisbon views.
Have I mentioned the stairs of Lisbon? It is seriously like a never ending staircase. Just when you think you have finally arrived at the top, you turn the corner and there are more stairs as far as you can see. Today we did 19,678 steps and it feels like every one of those was an actual stair!
Apparently after sundown, a diverse crowd fill the hip, quirky bars in this area, while the evocative sound of Fado music is heard from traditional restaurants and we thought we may come back after our Food and Wine tour that we had booked (didn’t happen). But it’s still in the plan before we leave.
We meet back at the jacaranda square for our Lisbon foodie tour of the vibrant neighbourhoods of Baixa and Chaido where we explored family run eateries, historic cafes, and specialty shops that have helped to shape the cities culinary identity… gaining a deeper understanding of the city’s culinary traditions, history and the stories of the people who keep these traditions alive.
We strolled through the lively streets and paused at no-frills local spots and bustling bars for more food and drink that we could possibly finish… red wine, green wine, port wine, beer, local cheese and barbecued chorizo, salt cod rice, bifana and more that I can’t even remember. We finished with a shot of ginjinha, the city’s beloved sour cherry liqueur…
… on the street before stumbling home for a very early night of well earned and much needed sleep.
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Graceful Gentle Giants
Meemee duties over, I am heading off for a couple of days exploring somewhere that’s been on my radar for a while now… Nusa Penida. It’s a spectacular island off the coast of Bali that has retained its wild, natural beauty with uncrowded pristine white sand beaches and vivid aqua-blue waters set against the lush greenery and rugged coastal cliff formations. Looks amazing!
And this beach paradise is not just about the views… it is a sanctuary for a rich variety of marine life including the majestic manta rays at Manta Point.… all while staying relatively undeveloped.
So for my Balinese touch of adventure and one of the most epic things to do on the island, I decided to book a tour to snorkel with the majestic Manta Rays.
I only realise, when I get a message from the tour company that they are waiting to pick me up at my hotel, that I have booked for the wrong date. And I am still in Canggu. I am so angry with myself for not being more thorough and I try to contact the company to see if they will add me to the following days tour when I will actually be on the island. They ignore my messages and I have no idea, as I head to Nusa Penida, if I am booked in a tour for tomorrow or not. Not knowing what is happening gives me a bad attitude and as I get accosted getting off the ferry by hordes of taxi drivers wanting to take me to my hotel, I am not feeling great about this little expedition. I find that my hotel is a million miles away and wonder how the hell I ended up booking this when I am usually so careful about staying within walking distance of everything. As we drive further and further into nowhere I am feeling more and more negative and contemplate changing my hotel booking for the following night to somewhere a bit closer to civilisation. I also decide to call the tour company rather than message and finally am told that they will not honour my booking as it was my mistake. Generally, it’s not a great start to this little solo venture.
Until I arrive.
And just wow!!!!
I have booked at an eco-friendly luxurious resort, nestled in the cool green hills of the islands centre… between rice fields, forest, and authentic Balinese villages. The location is peaceful and surrounded by nature, perfect for relaxation. My bungalow was cozy, full of Balinese warmth and actually took my breath away. An enormous bed swathed in mosquito netting dominates the room and the huge shutter in the bedroom completely opens to nature with no glass barrier. It is the same in the shower. My living room is actually outdoors overlooking the jungle.
It all blends so perfectly… and every stone walkway leads me through lush greenery and tranquil moments. I take some time…take off my shoes to feel the earth beneath them… breathe deep… and feel the islands calm wrap around me.
I sit by the beautiful pool, drink a couple of pina colada’s as the sun sets and listen to the rustling leaves in the gentle breeze, creating a soothing melody that eases my mind. I rebook and repay for my tour tomorrow and all feels right in my world again.
I dined in the open air restaurant and enjoyed the company of another solo traveller who I invited to join me.
Walking back to my bungalow there is something magical about the night sounds in nature made by a myriad ever-present nocturnal insects and frogs. But the dimly lit shadowy paths combined with those noises of the jungle has my imagination running wild and it felt like a tiger or some other creature could come bounding out of the forest…
… even though I know there are no creatures like that here. Definitely time for bed… as I have a big day tomorrow.
I am a little nervous as we head out this morning but I guess that is all just part of an adventure.
After a lot of waiting around we hop on our boat and head off. The water is a little rough but blue and clear and beautiful and as I’m not one to get seasick I enjoy the ups and downs of the sea, the sun, the salty spray and drinking the wild air. The coastline is spectacular with sweeping views all around of the cliffs and large rocky outcrops soaring out of the turquoise blue water.
Our first stop is Manta Point and I have my fingers and toes crossed as I have read many reviews from others on these tours who don’t get to see the mantas. Nature is always unpredictable. But as soon as we stop I can see quite a lot of people snorkelling in one area and hear the shout, “Manta, manta, manta”.
I quickly don my flippers, goggles and snorkel and ungracefully jump into the water. What a thrilling opportunity… swimming alongside these gentle giants as they gracefully glide through the clear waters creating an unforgettable moment for me in the heart of the Indian Ocean. Luckily our guide has a go-pro to capture pictures of the day.
We continued to another couple of bays with excellent snorkelling… known for their vibrant coral reefs and diverse marine life and we explored underwater gardens teeming with colourful fish and various coral. Having snorkelled many many years ago in Fiji, this does not compare (at least to my memory) as much of the coral worldwide is bleached and dead. It’s very sad and so do feel so grateful that I saw stunning coral reefs in the days before climate change wreaked its havoc. In theory there are also sea turtles but we didn’t manage to see any today. The water was unbelievably clear and blue and the perfect temperature and it would have been perfect even just for a swim. Exhilarating!
Back at the port we leave most of our group behind and the exploring then continued through the rugged and picturesque west side of the island. We have dropped down to only three plus our driver and I am accompanied by two cute young German guys.
The roads are abysmal… narrow and poorly maintained, extremely rough and potholed but still busy with tourist traffic and progress is slow and challenging… we were often down to 10km and hour.
Nusa Penida island is all about wild, exotic viewpoints and our first stop for this part of our tour is Kelingking Beach. A picture I had seen on social media somewhere of this place is what originally attracted me to come to this island… with its iconic T-rex-shaped cliff and stunning panoramic views of turquoise waters and white sandy beaches. A breathtakingly beautiful landscape and a perfect opportunity for one of my very favourite pastimes… taking pictures.
We continued onto the small but impressive tranquil cove… Broken Beach or Pasih Uug Beach, a natural rock formation with a dramatic archway formed from a collapsed sea cave many years ago… that frames the sweeping turquoise waves below.
We walked over this geographical marvel… a bridge made by nature… that offers a unique perspective on the islands rugged coastline and a perfect example of the powerful forces of nature. Unique!
Nearby, Angel’s Billabong awaited… an exquisite, super clear blue, rocky, natural tidal infinity pool where we could relax and soak in the stunning ocean views while taking a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters… or so we wished. It was very hot and humid but there was no swimming allowed.
It had been a long, tiring, hot and exhilarating day but I looked forward to getting home… showering… having a cocktail and dinner with my new friend from last night. And as a perfect ending to an awesome day… and week, I have booked a Balinese massage in my room after dinner, hopefully to give me a good nights rest. Huge travelling day tomorrow- basically travelling all day (9hours) just to get to the airport for my 6.30pm Etihad flight to Abu Dhabi and then two more legs before I touch down in Lisbon… over 19 hours of flight time and about 5 hours between the flights so I will have been on the move for 33 hours when I arrive. I’m exhausted just thinking about it. But it’s country number 56. And I’m definitely excited!!!
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A perfectly magical holiday feeling
She is working on three things right now.
Her life. Her peace. Her next trip!
She is me!
I’m always working on my next trip. And even the one after that. And right now, I’m not just working on it. I’m finally on it. Yay!
Embarking on a journey is always so exciting- travel is my very favourite thing. For me, it’s a feeling; a feeling I carry from one place to another. It’s hard to explain but it’s excitement and awe and a little bit of crazy… and an awareness of my privilege. Every destination holds new adventures. Whether I’m exploring hidden gems in bustling cities or finding peace and tranquillity in untouched landscapes, it’s not just about seeing new places… although I love that. It’s about experiencing the world in all its vibrant diversity… the thrill of experiencing cultures different to my own. New flavours and traditions await everywhere. And on this trip, I will be wandering through ancient streets, feeling the history beneath my feet as well as standing in awe before natures breathtaking creations. I hope this adventure will also be about making connections with people as I walk a Camino trail, and I am anticipating the stories that will be shared, and the memories we will create along the way. I will let my curiosity lead me to places I’ve never dreamed of, and let the journey shape a part of who I am. The world is vast and full of wonders and I’m very ready to explore again. Another adventure of a lifetime is just beginning.
My first stop is somewhere I have been several times, but not for many years- and it is very much changed. I can see that from the minute we arrive… the airport is now big and impressive and pretty organised where it used to be more “shackish”.
BALI!
Some see it as a paradise, and some see it as a nightmare. I tend to err on the side of paradise… maybe with a little bit of nightmare thrown in with its soul crushing traffic jams, rubbish everywhere and unclean drinking water. But these things are common to much of Asia and the third world. And there’s something about arriving in these places… a shift in sensory perception and cultural experience. It’s kind of a mix of overwhelming and intriguing as you encounter the vibrant street markets and chaotic environments, bustling crowds, loud noises and strong aromas… diverse traditions and symbols. It can be a bit of a sensory overload when you’re used to a calmer Brisbane setting. It doesn’t really have that Eat, Pray, Love feeling to me, but you have to surrender to a new place and embrace all the feelings that it brings. And I love it… from the chaotic powerlines growing like wild vines ready to collapse under their own weight…
… to the often bougainvillea covered shrines on every second corner and the little offerings left everywhere on the streets… to the curved archways and the intricate handmade details of the penjors that line and decorate the streets… a Balinese symbol of gratitude, prosperity and the connection between heaven and earth. These details somehow speak to me on a deeper level.
Such a contrast with the often stunning boutique stores…
… beach clubs, resorts, cafes and restaurants…
… that are also now commonplace in modern Bali.
This enchanting restaurant Penny Lane had a kind of Moroccan fairyland vibe and was just up the road from our hotel… and I did drag the kids here one evening because I couldn’t possibly leave without experiencing it’s ambience.
We also visit the famed Motel Mexicola… a vibrant and colourful Mexican restaurant that is right up my alley. Its exterior is an incredible riot of colours, instantly transporting you to the streets of Mexico and beckoning you with promises of fiesta and fun… and I’d heard it gets pretty wild here. As we walked inside, we were greeted by the lively beats of Mexican music and I was wowed once again. Anyone who knows me knows I love colour and detail and embellishment… and the interior of Motel Mexicola is a visual feast, with every inch adorned with Mexican-themed decor. It felt like I had stepped into an authentic Mexican hacienda, complete with ceramic tiles, vibrant textiles, and flickering candles… there’s even a beautiful picture of the Lady of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico.
We had an early night, leaving before the evening transformed into a lively party venue… but Alex and Liz and friends returned late on another night when the music was louder and the energy levels up and they danced the night away literally on the tables (apparently this is normal here) soaking up the vibrant atmosphere… and the spicy margs.
I think Bali really is a place that offers something for everyone… adventure… parties… nature… spirituality… culture…massages… awesome food… cocktails. Although this won’t be my usual kind of adventurous trip… or even one filled with rejuvenating spas as I am here as a meemee/babysitter 😊…for Harvey and Grace while Alex and Liz enjoy adult only activities centred around their besties’ beautiful destination wedding.
We are staying in Canggu, which I don’t think even existed when I was last here… but it is a paradise famous for its long stretches of black sand beaches with perfect waves, clear blue waters, and chilled vibes… amazing beach clubs, street art, markets, rice fields and of course an endless number of cafes and restaurants… and day spas… and sunsets! With cocktails! And I can definitely be very happy in this humid climate to just swim everyday in our lovely resort pool and drink a cocktail or two while I watch the kids. With an occasional therapeutic aromatherapy massage thrown in.
I don’t know about you, but one of my favourite parts of traveling is checking out local markets! Give me a good market any day over a big soulless mall. I love browsing through the artisan goods and chatting with local vendors. And there are lots of markets here selling everything from organic produce… clothing and accessories and cool home decor items (although strangely I have been unable to find a shell cross for my cross wall at home, when they used to be everywhere in Bali)… There just happened to be an amazing weekly market on at La Brisa the day we visited, which supports local vendors selling a vibrant mix of local handcrafted products and organic goods… all set among the palm trees and other tropical vegetation with definite beachside/jungle vibes.
I am included in the weddings welcome party and Liz has hired a local nanny to accompany us and watch the kids so we can all relax and enjoy the “white” party at The Lawn… one of Canggu’s many beach clubs.
More cocktails, nibbles, surf and music… breathing in the fresh ocean air, with the soundtrack of the waves rolling in… and the slowly setting sun.
I have a very early night but many of the fit30s beautiful people definitely don’t… and end up decidedly worse for wear the next morning.
So fantastic… but so crowded…
… and I was in awe’s even before I stepped foot into the beach club itself.
Surprisingly I was very self controlled and didn’t buy anything at all… although maybe it wasn’t so much self control as being too rushed and sadly, having no room for extras in my luggage. Travelling light is not conducive to shopping!
La Brisa- seriously one of the coolest and most stunning places I’ve ever been!
It’s HUGE… with two pools…
… and offers comfy beanbags or cool individual group seating areas…
… delicious cocktails….
… mouthwatering tapas or pizzas and a unique blend of vintage, hippie, nautical and artistic design styles- sounds weird but it so worked for me. This enchanting rustic decor includes shells, hand-crafted materials, fishing nets, and reclaimed timber from more than 500 old fishermen’s boats. And it just radiates a perfectly magical, holiday feeling especially combined with the sun, the ocean breeze, the rolling surf and the swaying palm trees.
It is just breathtaking and I would have loved to stay for the sunset but… so much to do and so little time.
One day I take the kids to Legian for some ‘cousin time’ as Chrissy, Danique and the kids happen to be holidaying here this week too. Mookiland keeps them busy and happy for several hours.
We also go to a local play cafe- Mai Main to pass some time without being in the pool and sun all day.
And just like that, my meemee duties are over and I’m off on a little solo adventure before flying again to Europe and meeting up with my beautiful friend Annie.
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Full Circle
I’ve come full circle… back in Istanbul where this amazing odyssey began. Europe’s biggest city and one of the world’s great metropolises, Istanbul is an incredible city and I’m happy to be spending some more time here. I think how ever long I am here, I’ll always be left wanting more… and that’s a good thing. It’s an exciting city… vibrant, exotic, unique… straddling two continents… an intoxicating jumble of histories, cultures, architecture and influences. Blending history and modernity in such a magical way. You feel alive here.
We are staying in Sultanahmet where the main concentration of historic sights, shopping precincts, hotels and eateries are… all pretty much within easy walking distance. Ideally suited to exploring on foot, the neighbourhood is a showcase of the city’s glorious past, full of mosques, palaces, churches and houses dating from Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. I have visited many of these sights before but I’m happy to do it again as it was many years ago.
You can’t avoid the famed mosaic filled Aya Sophia Grand Mosque as it is not just Istanbul’s most famous monument, but it’s also the most iconic and visited! A stunning building which I saw in daylight and at night. Once a church, then a mosque, then a museum, and then, since 2020, a mosque again, Aya Sophia has surely seen a turbulent history. I did not actually visit inside as the queues are so long but perhaps I should have as the apparently stunning Christian mosaics that remain face an uncertain future with Aya Sophia having become a functioning mosque again.
Right across from Hagia Sophia (and perhaps inspired by it), the Blue Mosque, stands proudly as a masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. It’s an awe-inspiring and dominating element of the Istanbul skyline with its cascading domes and 6 slender minarets…
… and I still remember how breathtaking it was inside from when I was here 10 years ago. When you step inside, the scale is hard to comprehend and you’re treated to a shower of light filtered through around 200 stained-glass windows illuminating the intricate architectural details. Blue İznik tiles featuring gorgeous floral patterns and calligraphy, adorn the interior and give the building its unofficial but commonly used name… although it is not nearly as blue as I remembered. Funny how time can play tricks on your mind. It really is awe inspiring and it is architecture like this that inspires me to want to visit Iran.
Our next stop… the Grand Bazaar and there’s nothing quite like it for an authentic Turkish experience! The Grand Bazaar is the world’s largest covered market, with about 60 streets and over 4,000 stores- it really is like a maze in here…
… where you can find everything from silk garments and gold jewellery…
…to souvenirs, leather goods, carpets…
… Turkish lamps…
… and Turkish delight…
…and timber embellished boxes. I’d been looking for a box for my bathroom cabinet for ages and I finally found one, beautifully inlaid with mother of pearl.
The bazaar is crowded and frantic and does feel a little bit more like a huge mall than I remembered but I still loved the experience once again including the hand-drawn paintings on the arches and the walls. Love those details that I think many people don’t even notice.
Just a stone’s throw away, we continued onto the Spice (or Egyptian) Bazaar for a colorful array of spices and fragrances. It’s amazing, with so many exotic herbal teas and mountains of spices and soaps and I want to buy everything, although I’m not even sure if Australian customs will let them through.
We stop for a street food lunch of balik ekmek (grilled fish wrap) amongst the colourful nets on the waters edge not far away. Pairing charred pieces of boneless fish with lime and finished with a basting of chilli paste before serving, balik ekmek is an absolute flavour bomb- so delicious!
So… now that it’s finished, how did I find the tour and will I do another? Actually I’m still in two minds but can certainly see the positives. I guess group tours have insider knowledge and may take you places that you wouldn’t discover on your own, although I am a pretty avid travel researcher so that doesn’t seem too much of an advantage. It’s also nice to not have to worry about the logistical details that can be quite stressful… and at times in the past I have suffered from decision fatigue when travelling in my own. Having someone speak the local language is most definitely an advantage
And we were blessed with an amazing tour guide, Alina… lovely, well organised, efficient, willing to go above and beyond… and also quite smiley, which is unusual for a young Slavic woman (as many people notice and comment on the lack of smiles in Slavic countries, she did explain that culturally, the people tend to save their smiles for close friends and family- so does that make us family now Alina?)
It was also lovely to share many wines, cocktails and meals with the other people on the tour… eating alone is not always fun.
But, being a free spirit, I still struggle with keeping to someone else’s schedule and itinerary… I think I like my freedom and independence too much. We’ll just have to see what the future holds… and I know one way or another, it will include more travel because it enriches me beyond measure and my gypsy heart just needs to wander. Much of the world still awaits!
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The worse the cobblestones, the better the town
Plovdiv- Bulgaria’s second-largest city, is situated along the banks of the Maritsa River. Like Rome, the city is built on seven hills, but it’s much older. Actually, Plovdiv is the oldest continuously inhabited city in Europe and the sixth oldest in the world! Amazing! The city is famous for its UNESCO World Heritage Old Town with its beautifully restored 18th-century houses in Bulgarian National Revival architectural style.
I just adored this place full of creative charm, ancient ruins…
… amazing artisan antique shops (photos sooo don’t do it justice)…
… a romantic old town, packed with colourful and creaky colorful 19th-century mansions that are now house-museums…
… craft workshops…
… galleries and guesthouses…
… all brimming with delightful details like decorative windows, vibrant facades, elegantly curved wooden beams, ornate wooden decorations and intricate touches like birds and floral designs…
… creating a one-of-a-kind architectural mix. Everything seemed to be a one-of-a-kind mix as Plovdiv seamlessly mingles vibrant nightlife and restaurant culture among millennia-old ruins.
One of the well-preserved ancient sites is right in the Main Street of Plovdiv- The Stadium… originally built in the 2nd century AD and could seat around 30,000 people. It has been restored and simply blends into the city centre although, at the moment, only part of the stadium is uncovered, meaning that ancient ruins are below many buildings in the city.
We wandered through the charming, quiet streets of the Old Town and it all felt kind of impressively surreal and the narrow, winding cobblestone streets gave this place a unique charm. The streets make for some difficult walking and I thought that somehow for me (just like in Sighisoara), “the worse the cobblestones, the better the town.” So much character.
Inside the Old Town we came across Hispar Kapia Gate, once the main entrance for the city fortress- hard to imagine what it was like back then! The gate is made from stone, brick and mortar and once again, history just hangs over this archway and these narrow and winding cobbled lanes.
The magnificent Ancient Roman Amphitheatre was once able to seat around 6000 people and it was the place where people gathered to watch gladiatorial games and theatrical performances and it is one of the best-preserved ancient theatres in the world. It is now one of Bulgaria’s most magical venues… hosting concerts and opera- and I can only imagine what a breath taking spectacle that would be sitting on ancient marble seats overlooking the whole city centre, with the Rhodope mountains in the distance.
We even came across a traditional dance troupe about to perform, which I would love to have seen, but sadly, it was a private event.
Loved the new building with the church of the “Holy Archangels”- the mosaics were amazing even though they weren’t ancient… and the view was fantastic.
We strolled through the newer part of town and felt the liveliness of the city, pulsing with ideas, creativity and spirit. Kapana, also known as the creative district is an artisanal hub turned modern, artsy quarter alive with beautiful street art…
… galleries, interesting shops, colorful cafes and restaurants…
… with incredibly good food and pretty streets with hanging little flags and lights.
The atmosphere in Kapana is awesome, especially in the evenings – people love meeting up and having a few drinks in the streets, and there is nothing but good, artsy and chill vibes everywhere around. Loved this area where we had a bottle of wine and delicious food similar to what I might get in a trendy cafe at home.
I must be tired because I didn’t even think about getting up for the sunrise. And now I’m kicking myself, imagining how beautiful it would have been over those Roman ruins with the city and mountains in the distance. One of my few regrets on this trip. 🤷🏼♀️
Loved this place maybe the most of all our stops on this tour… one night was not enough. But we move on again tomorrow… almost like a long haul flight but on a bus… back to Istanbul where this whole adventure began.
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Follow the Yellow Brick Road
We leave the beautiful Veliko Tarnovo the following morning bound for Sofia, the nations laid-back capital. Sofia is no grand metropolis, but it has an undeserved reputation as a hard-edged post-communist city, full of concrete and grays. While actually, It is a modern, youthful city full of turquoise and gold domes, flowers, and yellow brick roads- yes, really!
For more than a century the famous Yellow Brick Road has stood as a unique pathway that winds through the heart of the city (there’s a long story behind that but I won’t go into that now).
Although it does have some of those stubborn Red Army monuments… combined with the mosques…
…and Orthodox churches…
… some fine architecture, lush parks, museums, galleries and theatres…
… cool restaurants and cosy cafes, street art, vintage trams and some really cool details on the buildings that give it an eclectic, exotic feel…
… all with the Vitosha Mountain looming in the background. Sadly we did not have enough time here to really experience enough of it (and there are some really cool free tours here if I’d had time… food tour with Balkan bites and a street art tour) and I felt it was lovely but a little ‘average’ as European cities go.
Sofia is a city with a long history and is one of the oldest cities in Europe, founded around 2500 years ago and was even briefly the capital of the Roman Empire. So I was a little disappointed to find that there is no ‘Old Town’ as such, and that these days there are only a few remnants of these great times… although it’s not difficult to find them right in the center of Sofia.
Excavation work carried out during construction of the metro unveiled a treasure trove of Roman ruins from nearly 2000 years ago, when the ancient city was called ‘Serdica’… and there are impressive excavations to be found in and around the Serdica metro station. So strange … but amazing to think that if the metro system had not been expanded these impressive ruins would have never been excavated!
When you Google ‘Sofia’, the first image to come up is Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It’s become a symbol for the city… an awe inspiring church and one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world! Apparently it can hold an astonishing 10,000 people at one time.
Disappointingly, after seeing so many amazing churches, the interior of this one was not nearly as impressive as the exterior.
Although Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is Bulgaria’s landmark, I really loved the quaint St. Nicholas Church. The Russian church has five golden domes and is in an inviting small green paradise of a garden.
We happened to pass the Presidents Office at the time of The changing of the guards, and while not as elaborate as in some other European capitals, it was worth a stop nonetheless. I always imagine tradition dictates serious, unsmiling faces for these ceremonies, but one of the guards looked like he was trying to stop himself laughing… kind of funny really. I wonder if he was in trouble 😂.
St. George Rotunda is another one of the Sofia treasures as it is the oldest building in the city. It was built in the 4th or 5th century AD and turned into a church in the 6th century, but the surrounding Roman ruins are even older than that. It is hidden in the courtyard of the Presidency.
Bulgaria is a land of thermal activity and bubbling mineral springs, something I had no idea about before my time here. These colourful hot public baths were used for the locals for decades but sadly they’ve been closed for the past 40 years; a shame as I could imagine how it would have been in the past and I’d have loved a dip.
St Sofia is the symbol of the city and the monument is hard to miss due to its height! The lady high in the sky is a fairly new addition to Sofia, made in the year 2000. Sofia stands for Wisdom and St Sofia is the Goddess of wisdom!
On we go… to our last Bulgarian stop… Plovdiv. I’m looking forward to this one as I believe it’s amazing.
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The Love Swing
We cross into Bulgaria today- country number 55 and counting. Our first destinations- Veliko Tarnovo… a quaint cliffside city which was the old capital of Bulgaria for over 2 centuries and more recently has been awarded the prize ‘The Most Beautiful Town’ in Bulgaria. A Medieval fortress, an unbearably charming Old Town and amazing views over the town, the surrounding green hills and the Yantra river, are some of what this place has to offer. It’s one of those special places where natural and man-made wonders seem to complement each other effortlessly.
The town is gorgeous with its beautiful houses, layered amphitheatrically along the river banks; the historical cobblestone streets lead you past the colourful flower-decked houses and the red rooftops cascading down the cliffside look like something out of a fairy tale. It’s also a vibrant and artistic city that still sustains local traditions, crafts, and architecture… for me, a perfect recipe for an amazing couple of days!
We strolled the charming, winding handicraft street with its old-time cafes, local craft shops and “workshops” where the artisans make their woodcarvings, knives, jewellery, art and other traditional pieces and here, nearly everyone in our group was tempted with one thing or another by the time we moved on.
We visited the small sky walk that gives amazing panoramic views not just of the cliffside city but also the winding river, nearby hills, the monument across the other side, and more.
We continued on through the beautiful streets filled with rickety houses…
… while enjoying amazing views,
… down steep staircases to the river Yantra and across the Stambolov Bridge…
… which brought us to a beautiful viewpoint where I could snap gorgeous hillside photos of Veliko Tarnovo as the sun was setting.
Our lovely guide Alina said she had a surprise for us before dinner so we headed out with no idea where we were going or what we would see. So, I mentioned at the beginning that there was a fortress… well… in the evening, when it gets dark, there is an impressive “Sound and Light” show over the Tsarevets fortress. The whole fortress is lit up and the show tells the history of Tsarevets and the Second Bulgarian Kingdom through sound and light. And anyone who knows me knows that, as a lover of colour and light, I eat this stuff up. And so completely unexpected in a random little place in Bulgaria. Amazing!
And then onto dinner for some delicious Bulgarian staples… one of the best meals I’ve had on this trip complete with traditional donuts with all things pumpkin. Yum!
Early next morning after getting up for the sunrise…
… we set off for Arbanasi, for a little more of Bulgarias culture. The ancient village, set on a high terrace above Veliko Tarnovo, is steeped in history and basically a giant living museum… with preserved magnificent architectural monuments of the Age of the Bulgarian Revival, old churches and monasteries
… and beautiful yards filled with flowers and greenery, and of course, cobbled streets… and where people still living relatively traditionally. Perfect for wandering and enjoying a bit of peace and tranquility.
From the outside some of the buildings were not even recognisable as a church, unlike the orthodox churches seen in most other places.
But inside, every square inch was covered in frescoes representing different Christian stories and parables.
From Arbanasi, part of our group taxied home while the rest of us trekked the steep and at times rocky and slippery cliff top path back down…
… with incredible views of Veliko Tarnovo and the Balkan mountains… via the “Love swing” which was a highlight.
After crossing the bridge and admiring the gorgeous view…
… it was time to explore the most significant monument in Veliko Tarnovo… the medieval fortress Tsarevets, sitting on the peak of the same name, surrounded on three sides by the river Yantra. This is what had been featured in the spectacular light show we saw last night. The imposing surrounding walls wrap around the hillside guarding the ruins of the remaining houses, royal palace and churches of what was a medieval town… and transport you back to Medieval Bulgaria.
Here, the main attraction is the Patriarchal Cathedral Of the Holy Ascension, right on top of the fortress…
… and it was certainly not what I expected. In fact, it was one of the strangest churches I’ve ever been in, with extremely unusual religious artwork inside. Whereas the outside of the church is very traditional, done in the Byzantine style with a traditional stone exterior, the inside is just weird… somber…macabre… depressing… creepy… featuring modernist murals painted in the 80’s. Usually I love these orthodox churches, but I couldn’t wait to get out of this one.
The interior of the church wasn’t always so strange. It used to be incredibly ornate, with floor mosaics of multi-colored marble and gemstones like sapphire. The walls were covered in more traditional Orthodox frescos. However, the interior decor didn’t survive the years, and during the reconstruction efforts in the 20th century, the church got a decidedly unusual facelift. Because of these strange murals, the church has never been re-consecrated and lis no longer in use today, except by curious tourists (like us).
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Orthodox churches, Art Nouveau palazzos and Communist megalomania
After visiting the somehow fairy tale-like scenery of the medieval towns in Transylvania, we arrive in a Bucharest… a big unpolished modern grimy city… which is not generally my thing and seems a little bleak at first. So I immediately slip out alone as most of the others are going to the Romanian Palace of Parliament building for a tour. It is apparently the world’s largest civilian building with an administrative function… the world’s most expensive administrative building and the world’s heaviest building… none of which impress me or makes me want to see it. But each to their own.
I am headed to the cobbled Old Town that I know will be much more my scene… where you can escape the gloomy grey communist atmosphere… the part of town where the streets are filled with history and beautiful architecture. The Old Town is the historic center of Bucharest and was once the court of Vlad the Impaler (yes- him again 🤷🏼♀️). It is also a popular tourist destination, as it is filled with restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops.
I happen across the glass roofed Macca Vilacrosse Passage, filled with cozy cafes, restaurants, and shisha smoking places. I stop at a gorgeous cafe and sit in a turquoise velvet chair and have a drink, just soaking up the bohemian vibe… my kind of place. Pity about everyone smoking… one of the definite downsides to this part of Europe.
I then rejoin the rest of the group for an organised city tour with a local guide, which started with shots of palinka (for those who can stomach it- not me 😂).
He then led us on a captivating walk through the old town… full of surprises… sharing the fascinating history of Bucharest from its early days to more recent events that have shaped the city caught between the influences of the West and the East.
You cannot really talk about Bucharest apart from its rich and complicated history. The city was subject to devastating happenings throughout the years… in addition to several earthquakes, a fire started in one of the churches in Bucharest in 1847 and around 2,000 buildings caught fire leading to a third of the city being destroyed. The communist period and Ceauşescu regime also took its toll as it sought to erase all traces of the city’s history in the early 1980s, deciding that a fifth of Bucharest city was to be torn down to make way for Unirii Boulevard and the presidential palace. They demolished big parts of the old city center, including many priceless architectural buildings, among them, various churches (although seven churches were actually moved to keep the peace… the church of St. John is now tucked away in-between two big apartment buildings).
What you can see and visit as today’s historic center of Bucharest is apparently only about 20% of what it used to be.
But while there are plenty of Brutalist grey square communist era buildings, these do not define the character of old town Bucharest… it is a city of contrasts and is known as the Paris of the east due to its architectural style and strong French influence and in parts of the old town you really do feel you could be walking in Paris… just a little bit different… a little more rough.
We stop by the beautiful Stavropoleos church- beautifully artistic and perfect for finding a little tranquillity away from the chaos of the city… admiring the typical orthodox iconography covering the walls of the church and the cloister with its beautifully decorated arches. Very peaceful.
Always a sucker for an umbrella street…
We finished in Revolution Square where there are still bullet holes in the walls of the buildings which act as a reminder of how far Bucharest has come in recent years.
The Memorial of Rebirth, commemorating the victims of the Romanian Revolution of 1989, which overthrew Communism. While classical music is not really my thing, we have the opportunity for an evening of music with the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra, at the stunning Romanian Atheneum…
… the ornate domed circular concert hall with its massive marble columns, spiral staircases, amazing intricate ceiling, mosaics and decorative sculptures… and beautiful frescos. Conducted by the brilliant Gabriel Bebeselea with the internationally famous pianist Bruce Liu gracing the stage as the soloist. Certainly not my usual night out but the venue was amazing and I actually particularly enjoyed the pianist (although two hours sitting in a fold down, dicky seat with no back was a bit much).
Next morning before we head off again, I go out Orthodox Church hunting. I just love these churches with their deep spiritual beauty, high ceilings, chandeliers and decorative borders, ornate gold alters and crosses and painted iconography covering the walls. I think I will do a little blog just on the stunning churches of Bucharest as I enjoyed them so much.
I didn’t realise that Saturday mornings is when they have their services… and so enjoy beautiful chanting at several I visit while I am mesmerised by the stunning iconography.
I wander through Cismigiu Gardens… a beautiful atmospheric spot…
… before heading back to the hotel to move on again. Country number 55 coming up.
So, in the end, I’ve decided that I really like Bucharest despite its gritty exterior… even because of it. The people have a lot of heart and passion and you can feel the cities modern, progressive vibe mixed with its incredible history and it’s all part of its charm. The city overflows with character with its continuous clash of architectural styles and combination of cobbled streets, quirky statues…
… Orthodox churches, Art Nouveau palazzos, Communist megalomania and Parisian feel. The communist era buildings were a reminder to me of how lucky we are living in Australia, so far removed from war, revolution or dictatorship.
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Vampire lore
For most people, Transylvania is a stereotype… a fictional place of horror. Driven by vampire lore and mystery appeal, Transylvania has become Romania’s most popular region for travellers. But legends aside, it is a real place… where you can spend hours at a time … or even days (as we are)… without seeing a vampire or a werewolf. It is actually a magical land of abundant castles, medieval bastions and old-world villages with unique architecture. “The land beyond the forest” is the literal translation of Transylvania’s medieval name… and it is a paradise for nature and adventure seekers, the vast wilderness of the Carpathian Mountains preserves some of the last virgin forests in Europe and a simpler way of life… and are home to a huge variety of wildlife, from wolves (not werewolves) and lynxes to Europe’s largest population of brown bears – some 8000 of them, a number that has significantly increased. Buyer beware if you’re out after dusk.
Our first night stop is at the guesthouse of the lovely Balla Géza winery for a winery tour, wine tasting and traditional Romanian dinner. Here they work to bring back legendary wines lost in the region… and the wine (mostly red) flowed… until the early hours of the morning.
We move on to the gorgeous old town in the heart of Transylvania, Sighisoara… a UNESCO-protected town that has the distinction of being Europe’s last remaining inhabited medieval citadel. Visiting this place was like stepping back in time… straight into a fairytale filled with the most colourful well-preserved medieval houses, stone towers, steep staircases and stunning squares.
Many of the colourful burgher houses have now been turned into hotels, restaurants, cafes and souvenir shops covered in flowers and vines…
… but wandering into the smaller streets there was still many of the fairytale like houses inhabited. People actually live here and I loved just wandering the winding cobblestone streets soaking up the historic atmosphere, wishing there were places like this in Australia.
For me, there is just something about cobblestones. I know they have their difficulties but I just love them… they just create such a charming feel, and these were the most ‘cobbled’ cobblestones I have ever seen… very difficult to walk on… but still, I love them.
The fortified walls of the citadel are lined with the guild towers of Sighisoara… the most famous, and most stunning of which is the clock tower. You can just feel the history hanging over this part of town and I feel a little of my ‘travel crazy’ coming on as I run around clicking away on my iphone.
There are also some spectacular views… beautiful red roofs as far as the eyes can see, surrounded by hills of green.
And a beautiful cemetery connected to the Gothic church on the hill.
Lurking behind the gingerbread roofs and turrets of this gorgeous old town is the history of Vlad Ţepeş, the bloodthirsty, 15th-century Wallachian prince. He was allegedly born in Sighisoara, in a house that is still visitable… although most of it has been converted into a touristic restaurant. Ţepeş is best remembered as Vlad the Impaler, or Dracula, fuelling a local industry of vampire-themed souvenirs… everywhere you look. More on that later.
I really loved this place and didn’t feel ready to move on but there is a schedule to follow. So off we go the next morning… touring the surrounding countryside with its rolling hills, to visit some medieval villages, with their authentic Saxon houses wonderfully restored in bright colours…
… and get a true sense of life in this less visited region. Here horses and carts are still the norm, traditional crafts are still practiced and the smell of wood smoke wafts through the crisp morning air.
Life seems so idyllic and we have a discussion about “progress” and whether it is really progress at all. In Mâlâncrav, we stop to watch a traditional rug maker, weave her magic with wools all dyed with natural dyes made from beets, mint, grapes, walnuts, red onions and stinging nettles.
Here we also visit a fortified church with fascinating 14th century frescoes decorating the walls and a unique altar… all obviously dearly loved and cherished by the village.
We move onto another fortified church… one with a UNESCO listing. Biertan’s late-Gothic church, ringed by concentric walls and flanked by towers, is among the largest and most impressive in Transylvania (although it’s often the smaller ones that I love the most). The triple-naved church has superbly preserved Renaissance artwork, an intricately carved pulpit and mosaiced door.
Inside the grounds are many buildings, but the interesting/amusing one was a small bastion, which is famous in local lore: couples wanting a divorce were supposedly locked in here for two weeks as a last attempt to resolve differences. There was only one bed, one table and one set of cutlery. The method has been so successful that stories claim that only one couple decided to go through with divorce in more than 300 years.
The next couple of days and nights are centered around one of the best-preserved fortress towns, Brasov… picture-perfect with its tall Gothic spires, medieval gateways and watchtowers, baroque buildings and churches, cobbled streets and alleys and orange-hued rooftops.
Bustling cafes and restaurants line the main square where we enjoy local wine, food and the delicious Romanian dessert specialty Papanasi… and good company. There’s certainly a medieval charm here although, for me, Sighisoara is a hard act to follow. I always seem to prefer the smaller towns over the larger…
There’s a weirdly Hollywoodesque sign sporting ‘Braşov’ in huge white letters on the forested backdrop of Mt Tâmpa just so there’s no mistake about where you are. Just why…?
We take the cable car to the top for sweeping views over the nearby mountains and the city below…
… and then take the long, narrow, rocky, slippery walk with lots of switchbacks… and a bit of scrambling, back down to town… really lovely shaded beneath the cover of the forest canopy, and much-needed after many hours sitting on buses.
We visit the close by town of Bran where you find the picturesque Bran castle (also known as Dracula’s castle), impressively situated on a rock outcrop…
… the most visited attraction in Romania… due to a tenuous link with Dracula. I have never understood the general attraction to horror (isn’t there enough horror in our world without looking for more) or specifically to Dracula but obviously many people don’t agree with me as apparently there have been 431 movies made based on the book by Bram Stoker. And the Dracula angle clearly serves as a good marketing hook for tourism in Romania… it’s admittedly quite fun although even after our tour with an amazing and amusing guide… I am no closer to understanding the link.
Dracula aside, Bran Castle is quite small with many tight corridors; I’m told it gets awfully clogged up with visitors in the August high season, but as we were pretty much first through the doors, I really loved exploring the castle in the offseason. It is actually very rustic and beautiful with its imposing towers and turrets, secret passages and winding stairways.
We visit a traditional Romanian farm… Catean in Rotbav, worked by the same family for six generations. Run by three big thinking, well educated innovative brothers with a passion for what they do, the farm produces products of excellent quality using traditional recipes.
After our farm tour we savoured the flavors of their locally crafted cheese and indulged in a delicious homemade lunch, including wine and the dreaded palinca (Romania’s traditional fruit spirit)… a truly authentic and memorable experience and a fitting end to our Transylvanian journey.
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A mystically exotic place
Budapest is undoubtably one of the most beautiful cities in Europe although a surprising number of people don’t realise this. I remember on my first visit, around ten years ago, being amazed at the architecture, romantic castles, world famous thermal baths and delicious food. This is the starting point for my next adventure and this time, I am here for less than 24 hours- so I have decided to not race around too crazily and only visit two places that I didn’t see last time around.
The New York Cafe Budapest claims to be the most beautiful cafe in the world, wowing thousands of travellers every year. So as a lover of beautiful places who needs no excuse to say yes to a fancy 24k gold hot chocolate, I was, of course, dying to go.
This place looks like Versailles with its sparkling interior, gold trim, giant marble columns, ornate ceilings with intricate frescoes, glistening chandeliers, beautiful detailing on the walls and fancy AF staircases.
The setting is simply gorgeous… opulent… extravagant… lavish (although it’s not really my style)!
The tinkling piano melodies, gently float over the noise of tourist chatter, providing a delightful ambience throughout the whole, very busy cafe. There’s definitely a vibe… and a big queue as you can’t book (except for dinner).
And yes I think it was the best hot chocolate ever!
Next morning, as usual I slip out early… in theory to see the sunrise… but today there is a heavy fog over the city which makes everything difficult to see and photograph. I do love a bit of fog… it’s so atmospheric… but you couldn’t even see the river.
But that’s ok as my destination is the impressive and majestic St Matthias church… one of the most unique churches in Europe.
When I arrive, it is not open yet so I spend some time wandering the Fisherman’s Bastion, which I remember from my previous trip as looking like something out of a fairytale with its turreted towers, decorative arcades, and elaborate stone carvings.
It also offers amazing views over the Danube to the iconic and stunning Parliament building and the city below. If it wasn’t for the fog.
Also known as the Church of Our Lady, this holy building founded by the first Hungarian king and constructed in the Gothic style has more than 1000 years of history. Used as a coronation church by Hungarian kings for centuries, it has also been the site of two royal weddings before being transformed into a mosque for over 150 years by the Ottoman Turks… was once owned by Franciscans, the Jesuits… and is now a thriving Catholic church with holy masses, concerts, plenty of weddings… and thousands of tourists. I can only imagine how amazing it would be to experience a concert here.
While the outside of Matthias Church is in many ways a traditional Gothic church with its spires and delicate turrets…
… the coloured ceramic tile roofs already give away that this church is not following the usual recipe…
… and entering inside the church I was immediately speechless at the breath taking interior. Warm lights, shadows and colours with pink, orange, blue and brown, stunningly rich golden hewed frescos reaching from floor to ceiling… every single wall and ceiling surface hand painted…
… like the whole of inside was wrapped in a colourful exotic fabric.
I simply could not take my eyes off the details…
… beautiful stain glass windows…
… far reaching arches…
… century old wooden pews, medieval remnants and stunning doors.
Full of surprises, mysteries, and treasures, a mystically exotic atmosphere… this colorful character of the church is due to the beautiful cultural interchange of East and West. I always love visiting the churches when I travel but this stunning masterpiece is one of the most beautiful churches I have been blessed to see. Sadly my pictures can not possibly do it justice.
When I came out of the church, the sun was out and sky was blue… no fog to be seen.
Raced back to my hotel for my tour bus which was leaving at 10.30. Tours are generally not my thing… so let’s see how that goes. One last stop before leaving Hungary- Nem Adom Fel Cafe whose proceeds help fund a non profit by the same name, which means “Never Give Up”. Most of the employees at this social enterprise cafe are living with a disability, and the charity advocates for rights for the disabled all over Hungary. Awesome!
And now we’re off to Romania, a new country for me… number 54.
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 