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Camino-ing
“A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” – Lao Tzu
Day 2
Today was a really wonderful day!
We started with a fabulous breakfast at a hotel around the corner from our inn, included with our accomodation. Here we met another couple of lovely woacas Dana and Bobbie… from the USA before we headed off.
Rain is expected at 9 and right on time it arrives. Not heavy but making everything a little misty and bit miserable. And I can never seem to get my temperature right- jumper on, jumper off, shirt on, raincoat on, raincoat off. Maybe we need ponchos that will cover our packs… but I am believing for little rain as we journey on.
It didn’t take long to find our first arrow… looking for these will be an important part of our day for the next few weeks, ensuring that we stay on track… along with the Camino Ninja App and Google Maps.
We walked through town, crossed the Rio Leça, and then walked a few blocks to the Atlantic Ocean, which we would follow all day long.
Leaving Matosinhos, which is really an outer suburb of Porto, makes today feels like our first real stretch of walking… the first real Camino-ing. And it’s beautiful despite the slightly blustery and rainy day. Not far from Matasinhos, Anne stops for the bathroom where we meet another lovely couple from the US who are currently living in Singapore and not sure if they’ll ever go back. Here we also run back into Dana and Bobbie and end up continuing our journey with them for much of the day until they stop for their booked accommodation. We have great and easy conversation as we walk about family, life, the universe and everything. It is exactly what I had been hoping for on our Camino… connecting with random strangers from all over the world.
We pass plenty of cafes as we are still on the outskirts of Porto… pass a lighthouse… several old forts and chapels along the way between here and La Bruge. For much of the day our pathway is boardwalk, with a few cobbled sections and the day is a mixture of nice little towns and rugged but lovely coastline. We walk through Praia de Angeiras, with a tiny little colourful fishing village that feels really authentic…
… and eventually stop for a break to rest our weary legs, take the shoes off and eat a snack which we carried with us from breakfast this morning. Another young girl Bethan, from Wales who we have bumped into several times, joins us as well.
As we continue on we pass lots of beautiful beaches where you could probably stop for a swim if you like cold water and swimming in the current conditions (which I definitely don’t) but I do love the sea… and here I am, walking by the ocean in Portugal.
And, as I look out at the endless ocean and along the coastline that stretches into the distance, I feel: this is all ours to soak up and enjoy… the road that lies before me is a gift, and here in this vast space I am also a part of something bigger. That I get out not only from the 4 walls of my everyday life, but also from the problems in my head.
One of the things I’ve been hoping for on this journey is to unplug a little from some of the issues in our world that have been really messing with my head… but inevitably when in conversation with people from the US, some of these issues seep into our conversations (prepare for a rant!).
My thoughts at the moment which I know sadly, some of you will disagree with:
The rise of facism and authoritarianism is wrong and it’s wrong that white men horde power and dominate in every area of society. It is wrong that a small handful of billionaires own so much of this planet’s wealth and resources and that they get tax breaks when many cant afford food or healthcare. It is wrong to kill children, to bomb hospitals, to starve people to death and to block humanitarian aid. It is wrong that men kill women every single day in every single country of the world and no one seems to care enough to actually do anything about it. It is wrong that in some parts of the world people seem to care more about their guns than their children. It is wrong to stigmatise gay people. It is wrong that our beautiful earth is constantly destroyed for profit. It is wrong to ban books just because you don’t agree with ideas held inside them and it is wrong to erase or distort history. It is wrong that a morally bankrupt convicted felon is able to hold the most powerful position in the world… and that as he tests the waters of dictatorship, he defies the Supreme Court, pushes to send people to concentration camps, uses racism to gain power, scapegoats the vulnerable to keep the majority afraid and angry, mocks the weak and uses his power waging petty vendettas, exalts himself and preys on the innocent. Win at all costs. Cruelty and corruption seem to be the flavour of the day and it’s making me cynical and despondent… and I’m kind of obsessing. And what makes it all so much worse is that so much of it is done under the guise of Christianity… using Scripture to justify bigotry, when most of these things are in direct contradiction to the teachings of Jesus.
And yes- Im woke! Woke to me means awakened by compassion, guided by truth, committed to justice. I seek compassion for humanity as the people of the world have lived through enough cruelty, violence and war. And as Pope Leo XIV said, “To be called “woke’ in a world that sleeps through suffering is not an insult, it’s the gospel”. Mercy isn’t ’woke leftism’. It’s literally the gospel of Jesus. Denying mercy is Antichrist.
And I think that we were never meant to know about all this stuff happening everywhere all at once. I don’t think we were built for this much information. We were never meant to wake up and immediately scroll through war zones, natural disasters and political madness. It’s not normal (although it kind of is now… but shouldn’t be). I don’t believe we were designed to carry the grief of the whole world in our minds or bodies… and yet sometimes that’s how I feel. We’ve got the weight of billions beamed directly into our faces 24/7 through our phones or TVs. It burns you out. It numbs you. Or worse- it makes us think that this chaos and cruelty is normal. And makes me cynical and despondent… makes me feel helpless… and hopeless, when I know that I need to try to lean towards hope and empowerment instead of despair… to focus on what is right with the world. I will not allow the steady maddening onslaught of insanity to wear down my humanity. I will keep knowing the truth, my truth… keep telling the truth. I will try to do my small part every damn day to stay human, to stay awake and tender, so that the world does not wear away at my humanity.
And I do still regularly “think to myself what a wonderful world”, but it’s been getting more difficult… so this trip will I hope, be a big reminder. And apparently looking at the sea for just 5 minutes has a calming effect equivalent to a week of therapy…it serves as medicine to many. So I’m in the right place. And it’s part of why we chose to walk mostly the coastal route on our journey to Santiago de Compostela. There is just something about the ocean…
… refreshing, renewing, calming and awakening. And I feel and smell the salt in the air and the wind on my skin and gaze at the grey muted line of the horizon allowing my mind to wander and peace to come.
Continuing onward after the girls leave us, the path remains much the same as before… boardwalks and wildflowers, endless coastline, blustery seas. I think I have forgotten to mention earlier the wildflowers that have so wonderfully surrounded us all day lining the boardwalks. Orange nasturtiums, yellow and white daisies of many kinds, purple lobelia, something that looks like Queen Anne’s lace and others like large pig face flowers… there are foxgloves and huge areas of wild pink roses… hydrangeas and so many others that I didn’t have a clue what they are. Abundant beauty surrounds us.
There are a few weird and wonderful and arty things as well we happen across as we walk…
… we met up with Bethan once again at this place she was exploring… not sure what it was but it felt a bit witchy.
Near the end of the day, the Camino turned inland a bit, and we found our way to the town of Mindelo where we are staying tonight at the On the Way guesthouse… which turns out to be just perfection. Our hostess Ana was just beautiful and friendly and went out of her way to make sure everything was just perfect- right down to chocolates and freshly brewed herbal tea. She recommended a fab family run restaurant for dinner which was close by and served delicious BBQ fish again and lovely wine. And we were very ready for bed.
Steps today- 30,757
Kilometres today- 19.4km
Floors climbed- 5
Temperature- 21°
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Just Why?
“Don’t be afraid of the path. Be afraid of not walking”- Paulo Coelho
Day 1
Pretty much every single time I told anyone that my holiday in Europe would revolve around walking 300ish kms from Portugal into Spain, they looked at me like I was completely insane. “Just why?” “That’s not a holiday”… and different versions of the same sentiment. But “Rust out or wear out”- my osteopath once told me. And If I have to choose, it’s definitely going to be to wear out.
It was actually my mum who planted the first seeds for me walking the Camino. She said she could really imagine me doing and enjoying it, as I was “my father’s daughter”….adventurous like him. I didn’t even know what the Camino was, and so I watched the wonderful 2010 Martin Sheen movie “The Way” that had exploded the popularity of walking these sacred paths. And then I didn’t really think too much more about it for a few years… until it suddenly started calling me… and now I am answering.
And I do love to walk… regularly walking with Anne at home, stopping for food and wine along the way… as is our plan for the next few weeks. I love the sensation of peacefulness and exhilaration that comes with moving my body forward, rather than hopping into a fuel-burning car. I feel strong, energised and empowered that I am still able to do this. But with my body starting to regularly let me down, now is the moment. Or maybe it would never happen.
But it’s about much more than walking. Yes- it’s a challenge to my mind and body… about endurance and resilience. But it is considered a pilgrimage and the best definition I could find defines pilgimage as “a journey often into an unknown or foreign place, where a person goes in search of a new, or expanded meaning about self, others, nature, or a higher purpose found through the experience. It can lead to a personal transformation or healing, after which, the pilgrim returns to their daily life with profound wisdom.” Sounds profound… and hopefully it will be.
It’s also about cultural immersion as we pass through diverse landscapes and historical sites, giving us an opportunity to experience Portuguese and Spanish culture and history.
And perhaps most importantly, it’s about connection… with God… connection with other adventurers we will meet along the way as the Camino fosters a strong sense of community among pilgrims, with shared experiences and mutual support … connection with my own heart, goals and desires… and connection with nature. Combining my love of walking with my love for getting out in nature… experiencing the awe, happiness and connection that nature brings… breathing in the beauty of God’s creation, away from life’s demands and lose myself in the present moment for a while. And whatever it ends up offering, I will try to have an open heart to all the experiences and encounters that await me while walking the Way.
So, what is the Camino… for those of you who don’t know? The Camino de Santiago (aka The Way of St James) is an interconnected network of ancient pilgrimage routes stretching across Europe leading to the Cathedral of St James in Santiago de Compostela, where the remains of St James are said to be buried. Since the 9th century, millions of seekers, adventurers and pilgrims have walked these routes from all over Europe to Santiago.
Of the many available routes, we have decided on a combination of the three Portuguese routes starting in Porto… much of the time we will hug the Atlantic coast of Northern Portugal… think white sands, crystal clear waters, stunning blue skies and beautiful fishing towns. And while many pilgrims walk this route in 10ish days, seeking the physical challenge… wanting to conquer it the same way that some people want to climb Mt Everest… we were sure that we didn’t want to do it that way… to rush… that we wanted to enjoy the scenery… the gorgeous seafood and fresh produce… to stop and smell the roses… to notice the small miracles that we believe will be part of our Camino. And so, we are walking this route over three weeks… starting today.
So- I surrender to the journey and create space for whatever comes… accepting whatever “the Way” brings as part of my growth. Here’s to the journey, whatever it may be!
Day 1
Obviously we are beginning in Porto. We start at the cathedral, the official starting point for the obligatory photos, and we are off.
We stop for a quick fresh orange juice and pastel de nata. The weather is not wonderful but probably perfect for walking… it is quite cool as it has been most of the time since we arrived in Portugal. Apparently this is not the norm and we have not really been prepared for these cooler temperatures. Perhaps now we may appreciate them.
Our first day was definitely city walking the entire time… mostly on cobbles… and we never fully left Porto. From the cathedral you walk down to the Ribeira district and follow the river all the way..
…until it meets the Atlantic Ocean.
And then, the rest of the day follows the coast for a relatively scenic route with plenty of bars and restaurants along the way… as well as a couple of lighthouses, forts, sculptures and some gorgeous flowering local trees.
We are wished “bon voyage” by an American man in a tour group… I know he meant “bom Camino” which is the greeting used for pilgrims walking through Portugal… mean “good Camino”… so it was a lovely moment… our first such greeting.
We are staying in Matosinhos, which is basically a suburb of Porto, on the coast. It’s right on the main port area and really is a big fishing town that brags about having the world’s best fish. We arrive exhausted and hungry just in time for lunch and go looking for some of that fish. And while there are many small restaurants along the streets with hot braziers grilling the day’s catch, we venture to the actual fish market and find a small restaurant there. The host tries to send us to buy our own fish which they will then BBQ for us… but we are too exhausted and he offers to do it for us. We order wine while he purchases us a lovely sea bass, cooks it and debones it at our table. Combined with a rainbow salad which included blackberries and oranges… we were in heaven. Just what we needed.
We went to find our accomodation which turned out to be a gorgeous little inn with a very warm and friendly hostess and we collapsed on our beautifully comfortable beds.
I spent some time blogging while Anne rested and eventually couldn’t keep my eyes opened and succumbed to a little nap. Woke a while later and decided to venture out into town where we had been told was a celebration for the Feast of the Lord of Matosinhos… including a market, rides and lots of street food. Anne was pretty much still non compos mentis so I wandered out alone and found a HUGE market with all sorts of yummy local street food. I noticed a long line up and watched the girls making, kneading and rolling dough… adding chorizo and cheese and then rolling them up like a sausage roll. They then went into a large wood burning stove and came out looking delicious- so I joined the queue.
I think it was called a Pau artesanal com Chouriço and was quite yummy and all I needed for dinner.
Bought some lovely fresh cherries for Anne and headed home for much needed sleep.
Steps today- 26,491
Kilometres- 17.83
Floors climbed- 11
Temperature- 21°
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Eyes half shut
Our first impressions of Porto were not super positive. Dilapidated… ruined and abandoned buildings everywhere… graffiti…
… scaffolding, scaffolding, scaffolding… complete facades of building covered… and huge areas cordoned off… making it difficult to find your way around, even in the prime tourist areas.
There is construction/reconstruction all around and so many cranes across the skyline it’s crazy… I guess at least they’re trying to improve the current situation.
And as I walked the city… I started to see the beauty… and it was everywhere. Weirdly, there’s something about delapidated building that has always appealed to me in some way… so much character… decaying beauty. And really…isn’t graffiti just street art?
And I love the authentic touches of real life like washing hanging outside the windows.
Sometimes you just have to keep your eyes half shut!
Because in many ways, Porto is painted in magic. There’s something about it that feels like stepping into a postcard… narrow cobbled streets that whisper stories of the past…
… azulejo tiles turning every corner into art…
historic baroque churches to fuel my obsession…
… terracotta roofs…
… plentiful street art…
… and café/bar-dotted plazas everywhere leading the eyes down to the Duoro river and its landmark bridges and golden sunsets… the taste of port wine making everything better… full of life, history and art. There is always music coming from somewhere: talented street musicians play guitars or other instruments and sing…
… the countless churches bells are ringing, so the music is continuous, as if we were walking around in our own musical.
As we explored Porto we noticed the eye-catching azulejo tiles decorating everything from benches, street signs and fountains to the walls of train stations, houses, churches and cathedrals. These are my new obsession… I really love this very Portuguese decoration… so individual and unique… and so gorgeous. There are even azulejos adorning huge boulders and public art in Porto.
Pretty much our first stop after arriving and dropping off our bags to our lodgings, was the fortress like Porto Cathedral (Se de Porto)… one of the city’s oldest monuments.
We bought our pilgrims passport and our symbolic shell to attach to our backpacks, ready for our upcoming Camino and got our first stamp- yay!!
We walked the beautiful cloisters decorated with intricate azulejo tiles from the 17th and 18th century, which depict scenes from the Song of Songs about the mystical dialogue between God and the Virgin, and the cathedral’s patron saint as well as scenes from Portuguese history.
The azulejos are considered some of the finest examples of this traditional Portuguese art form and they contribute to the cathedral’s rich cultural heritage.
And, as I do as someone who is afraid of heights, I headed to the roof for stunning views. From there, the panorama on the historic center, the Douro River, the Dom Luis I Bridge and the municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia is quite simply breathtaking.
Our first evening we visited the Igreja dos Clerigos for an imersive light show inside the church… so my kind of thing and completely spectacular.
Porto is a small city with MANY churches and we visited several of them to feed my obsession… particularly my new azulejo obsession. The 15th century Igrega de Santa Clara is one of Porto’s hidden treasures. Nestled in its historic heart, the church appears modest from the outside, but when we stepped inside we were enveloped by lavish baroque woodwork adorned in gleaming gold leaf. Not at all my thing but still amazing.
Much more my thing was the absolutely stunning Capela das Almas or Chapel of Souls… with its soulful beauty and vibrant facade… a stunning testament to Portuguese artistry.
This remarkable chapel, adorned with more than 15,000 striking blue and white azuelo tiles… tells a story of devotion and beauty… its walls depicting scenes from the lives of various saints, including st Francis of assisi and St Catherine. Each tile is a brushstroke in a larger masterpiece, weaving a rich tapestry of history and faith.
On our first day in Porto we came across this stunning church with a grand tile panel on its side facade. What I didn’t realise was that it was two churches side by side separated by a narrow, 1-m-wide house in the middle… known as Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelitas. Pretty as a postcard.
And then there was the church of Saint Ildefonso. The 18th century church facade is covered in nearly 11,000 azulejo tiles and is considered to be one of the most important examples of Baroque architecture in Portugal. The tiles were added to the church in 1932, courtesy of the Portuguese painter Jorge Colaço. The church is a UNESCO World Heritage site and on the day we saw it the colour of the sky mirrored the blue of the azulajos perfectly.
Porto has several of “one of the most beautiful…. in the world”… if that makes any sense. It is home to “one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world”… the historic San Bento railway has one of the most famous examples of the azulejo tiles, also painted by the artist Jorge Colaço. You enter the station and there is an extraordinary soaring atrium with 20,000 tiles adorning the walls depicting Portugals history and culture. Just stunning.
We booked to visit Livraria Lello: “one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores in the world”… and yes, you have to book and pay to visit this book store. But seriously- just wow! Its stunning neo-Gothic interiors have been said to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s descriptions of Hogwarts. Pretty on the outside…
… but that doesn’t give away what’s hidden inside!
The massive staircase is one of the highlights but so spectacular all around… except for the crowds which we pretty horrific.
And of course, “the most beautiful McDonalds in the world”- with stained glass windows and many chandeliers.
In the evening, we wandered the Ribeira district (downtown Porto) below the cathedral… which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods along the banks of the Douro River.
I really loved this area, known for its colourful, ancient houses many of which have that dilapidated look to them which adds to their charm… and a jumble of narrow streets filled with lively street cafes and bars where you can wine and dine with a gorgeous view. I thought this area could be a bit of a tourist trap for dinner, so instead we crossed the river.
To do this we used the lower level of the iconic double decker metal arch Dom Luis bridge that spans the river offering stunning views of the river and city to Villanova de Gaia.
This level is for cars and pedestrians whereas the upper level is for the metro and pedestrians. The views from either the top or the bottom are incredible, and especially when the sun goes down, the city looks even more beautiful!
There is plenty of street art around Porto and Gaia- and I’m a huge fan. There are lots of quirky pieces in and around Ribeira district from decorated electrical boxes to a huge blue cat which peeps out from a wall… not the easiest to photograph as it’s the smallest street in Porto but anyway 🤷🏼♀️.
After we crossed the bridge, I went looking for the 3D Half rabbit by Bordolo II whose work we had already seen in Lisbon… made of recycled materials and looming over the corner in Gaia.
We shared a cheese platter and some wine as we watched the sunset … just perfect. There’s something magical about watching the sky turn shades of gold and orange and pink over the Duoro river. The city slows down, the lights start to twinkle, and just as the sun disappears… for a moment everything feels still- just pure magic. A front row seat for natures masterpiece. No camera can really capture it or any sunset for that matter. And I’m always the girl that gets excited for a sunset.
Or a sunrise. I decided to get up early as I had been rather lazy since our arrival with my early morning walks. I headed to the Miradouro do Morro da Sé, near the Porto Cathedral, as I had googled the best place to see the sunrise… terracotta rooftops, the sound of seagulls, historic churches and the morning golden light hitting the city just right- Porto at its finest… except it wasn’t. I didn’t realise until I was out and about that it was actually quite foggy and there really wasn’t any sunrise to be seen.
I started to walk home but saw the fog was lifting and went back. Nothing spectacular but still lovely.
We visited the World Heritage Monastery of Serra do Pilar, via the top level of the bridge… with even more spectacular views over the city. We were hoping to go inside to the round church and cloisters but discovered that it is closed indefinitely due to maintenance works… still worth the climb up for the view alone.
We had a couple of memorable meals at two wonderful restaurants (The Door and Babel) with creative and delicious food… and amazing staff.
I literally think I had the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten… foie gras cutlets on thin apple slices with port wine and red fruit reduction, almonds, ginger and lime zest. Only a mouthful but I was in raptures. Seriously.
On Sunday night quite late I could hear a lot of noise and cheering… sounded like a football match and I thought it must have been the local football club or something- I even googled if there was a local match on and it said there was (Inter Miami vs FC Porto). But the cheering got louder and louder and then it seemed like all hell broke loose. People were cheering and yelling and cars were honking their horns and then messages came though on my family chat that Portugal had just won the Nations League (whatever that is), which is apparently big news for Portugal. It certainly got a little wild and reminded me of ten years ago when I was in Barcelona with Jadey and Barca won the Champions League and there was the hugest party and ticket tape parade for the players. Just being in the right place at the right time 🤷🏼♀️
And so tomorrow we leave Porto for the beginning of our big Camino adventure. I must admit I leave with some trepidation of what is to come but also a great excitement in my spirit. Let the journey begin with whatever it may bring.
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Alas, there was port to be drunk
I generally don’t love tours but figured that it was really the only way I could get to the Duoro valley, especially in the available time frame… so today was the day. And we’d been really looking forward to it.
The Douro Valley is one of the most stunning areas of natural beauty in the whole of Portugal and the breathtaking landscapes have earned it a UNESCO’s World Heritage listing. It runs from Porto all the way across to the border of Spain and is the oldest wine region in the world. The Valley has a spirit of its own and is renowned for its outstanding wine culture and wine tours, the Quintas and wineries. It’s also the origin of port wine and in order for a wine to be labeled a true “port,” its grapes can only come from the Douro region.
And I think that the Douro Valley could easily be called the Enchanted Valley, because of the beauty and magic of its landscapes and I clicked away, mostly unsuccessfully, as we drove as it was all so stunning. The hilly landscape is peppered with sleepy rustic wineries…
… small villages, century old family run vineyards with hand tended terraced hillsides…
… large Quintas and scenic miradours everywhere we looked… with the Duoro river snaking through it all.
We were given the opportunity to visit two emblematic places in the Duoro, learning about the wine production methods that make valley’s wines unique in the world… and of course enjoyed partaking in a little port tasting or two… or three. We took a guided tour of the first winemaking cooperative with an expert guide and learned about the rich history of the estate and the intricate processes that have been passed down through the generations.
As a bonus, it was full of cool art.
Afterwards we sat down for a traditional lunch where the wine flowed and our glasses were never empty… maybe because apparently the Portuguese drink more wine per capita than any other country.
Then back on the bus for a very funny almost dance party sing-a-long led by our fantastic guide Ricardo… all the way to our next stop where we boarded a small boat for a few moments of relaxation along the calm waters of the Duoro river.
We wound down and took in the stunning landscapes… Quintas perched on the verdant hillsides covered in their terraces, a constant breeze working its way between the hills, the occasional rural train chugging along the riverside tracks.
The boat trip was only an hour, but we would have been happy to stay there all day. But alas, there was port to be drunk, and more of the region to explore on our Douro Valley tour.
We then followed a part of the famous ‘Miradouro da Estrada Nacional 222’ road; known as one of the world’s best drives. We were driven up a very narrow winding road with steep dropoffs down to the river… to the very top where we stopped at a vineyard for one of our tastings…
… and to see their spectacular view of the river.
From there, the birthplace of port stretched out in front of us in every direction, and the Duoro River, which had been up close and personal just moments before, was now just a glistening ribbon snaking between the slopes.
A long but wonderful day with some lovely people from all over the world… a great and really fun guide who was knowledgeable and made a huge effort to make sure everyone had a great time… food to fill the bellies and more wine than was probably wise… and the stunning landscape in every shade of green you could imagine and more.
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The Portuguese Sistine Chapel
A few years ago I came across a photo of a small church in Portugal which I thought was perhaps the most beautiful church I had ever seen. Those who know me know that I can get a little obsessive about things and this became one of those obsessions (like the tiny chapel in Nazare but worse). And today I finally saw it and it was as beautiful as I imagined. But more on that a bit later.
We decided to catch the train to Aveiro as we’d heard it called the “Venice” of Portugal and Anne had never been to Venice. And while that name may be a bit of an exaggeration, Aveiro is a charming coastal city, on the shore of a lagoon with water in its soul. And the “Venice” thing comes from the fact that the town is renowned for its network of picturesque canals that you can navigate on traditional painted gondola-style boats known as moliceiros. These were originally made to harvest seaweed from the lagoon, that was then used as fertiliser in the local sandy soils.
The canals are what give Alveiro its character and so… when in Rome (or Venice… or Aveiro) you do what everyone does and we did a little relaxing moliceiros boat tour.
Each boat is uniquely decorated and the paintings on these boats depict traditional scenes around Aveiro and on the tour, in theory, you get a good summary of the city and its history etc etc… except we could not really understand a word our guide was saying… even though he was speaking English.
Oh well, it didn’t really matter and we enjoyed a leisurely 45 minutes gliding through the canals, watching the world go by… and observing the charming Art Noveau houses in pastel shades along the quaysides in the older part of the city. We strolled along the city’s main streets and admired their pretty pastel facades… curved lines, floral motifs, decorative ironwork and intricate details all from an era when beauty and craftsmanship shaped urban design.
Forgot to mention that the railway station that we arrived at was absolutely stunning with the typically Portuguese blue and white azulejos.
We wandered around through the colourful streets full of flowers…
… and stopped for lunch in a great little street restaurant and had some delectable mussels and cockles with wonderful homemade bread and wine.
And then to “the” church. It was pretty out of the way so as we’ve been a little lazy this trip with public transport, we decided to Bolt. It was actually by far the most expensive Bolt we’ve had on the trip (and we’ve used them ALOT) but I didn’t care. We arrived and I was immediately in awe.
Válega church is a true masterpiece of tile painting art and surely one of the most remarkable churches in Portugal!
It has also been known as the “Portuguese Sistine Chapel”… lol a bit like calling Aveiro the ”Venice of Portugal”… but I do get it. Seriously so beautiful with its facade, completely adorned with hand-painted tiles depicting biblical moments… and the entire interior of the Church is also painted, with the Ave Maria prayer being mainly represented. Looking up, it’s impossible not to be dazzled by the ceiling, made with wood from Brazil.
It also had the most beautiful and well kept cemetery I think I have ever seen. Every single grave had fresh flowers.
I actually felt quite overwhelmed and teary… I am a lover of beauty in its many forms and it can make me quite emotional. Feeling very blessed as we continue on our journey.
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Pure magic- Part 2
We wake and have a good nourishing breakfast before heading out to the UNESCO World Heritage Pena Palace that apparently inspired Disney’s fairy-tale castles… and is one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. We have tickets for this one so as not to wait in long queues as this is what the majority of people come to Sintra to see. There are huge crowds everywhere bustling for position to try to get the perfect picture… or two… or hundred 🙄.
The Palace is of course located high on a hill and stands out for its bold colours and whimsical shapes… an eclectic blend of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Islamic styles and from its location provides a wonderful lookout point.
The colourful eclectic terraces are a highlight of Sintra- all the dreamy pictures I had seen while researching this place, came to life right there on the terraces of Pena Palace.
The terraces uniqueness is due to the colourful and unusual palette mix of yellow, red, blue and white.
There were pretty yellow arches…
…exquisite onion domes and a plethora of interesting sculptures…
… a very crowded chapel with stunning details…
… plus gorgeous views of the valley and the Moorish castle. And did I mention crowds?
It was cold and windy being so high and so we continued on down and walked some of the stunning and huge palace grounds and then up again to Cruz Alta… from where Google had said you get a good view of the palace. Wrong! There are only glimpses through the trees…
…but there was a lovely view and a large cross marking the hill.
There is always more to see but limited time and limited leg power… yes I was really feeling it today after our big day yesterday. So instead of exploring the gardens further, we moved onto our final destination… the Castle of the Moors… and inevitably it is VERY high on a hill. Built in the 10th century by the Moors, this castle was once a strategic viewing point. We hiked up through stunning huge boulders and greenery
… to the fort walls and the views were just amazing.
I found a second wind to climb right to the top… which was at this stage, very difficult but worth the effort. Wow!
Stunning views of the valley, rolling hills and the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. And Pena Palace.
And then the climb down… kind of scary and very hard on the knees with so many stairs.
We make it back to the entrance and try to get a Bolt home but it seems impossible so we decide to walk down. I know I joke about everything being uphill both ways but for anyone with bad knees you will know that the downhill is actually much harder than the up… and the walk down is much more full on than we realised. I really struggle although we do walk through a stunning garden full of climbing roses and other blooms… and gorgeous views.
When we do finally reach Sintra town, Anne continues on to our B&B to pick up some medication and I find a find a lovely family run restaurant for a nice long lunch. We had passed and commented on this place yesterday and I realise that it is also on my list of recommendations- Tascantiga. I sit with a wonderful glass of wine and peruse the traditional tapas menu while I wait for Anne to return. We are hoping for a long late lunch as there is nothing else planned for this town… so I am disappointed when the owner tells me they close at 4… which is in about 40 minutes… and Anne isn’t back yet. When she does arrive we enjoy an excellent authentic meal of Portuguese tapas with a creative take and wine. Exactly what we needed… if a little rushed.
Sintra- a place full of history, beauty, mystery and pure magic. And of course any magical place has the danger of over tourism… which sadly really is an issue here with traffic jams everywhere and wall to wall people at any of the main tourist locations, which can be uncomfortable, frustrating and overwhelming. Despite this, it really is magical in many ways… a fairytale land perhaps more than anywhere I have been… nothing quite seems real and it’s definitely worth the negatives that inevitably come with visiting tourist destinations like this one.
And so we move on…
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Pure magic- Part 1
One of my goals when I left home was to write my blogs with fewer words as they take so much of my time. Well that’s been an ultimate fail! And I have a feeling this might be a long one- so… apologies in advance. 😂🤷🏼♀️
How many times can I say wow! Beautiful. Amazing. Spectacular. Stunning. Picturesque. Breathtaking. There’s not enough superlatives for this place. Sintra.
Less than an hour by train from the Lisbon, Sintra feels like another world… a magical fairytale world rich in history, filled with imposing, colourful castles, misty forests, charming cobblestone streets, centuries old monasteries and strange, historical mansions with exotic hidden gardens… all framed by mountains, where steep cliffs drop down to the Atlantic Ocean. Sintra truly is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever laid eyes on. A real-life fairytale.
We took a Bolt from Lisbon and arrived early enough for a full day of exploration. Dropped off our luggage at our beautiful rustic 19th century manor house B&B…
… and headed straight off as we had a big day planned. We walked to our first stop Quinta de Regalia and the first thing we notice is, just like Lisbon, everything is uphill. Both ways.
We go straight to the ticket office only to be informed that there are no tickets left for the next few hours so we purchase tickets for late in the afternoon and change our plan. You have to be flexible. We head to Palacio De Monserrate- an elegant and exceedingly stunning palace with a unique and whimsical mix of Gothic, Indian, and Moorish architecture, surrounded by exotic botanical gardens and set in lush, forested hills. It really did defy the imagination. OMG we loved this place and spent way longer here than we expected… wandering the serene lush garden where species from all over the world grow…
…filled with birdsong and the sound of water. I felt like they were playing one of those relaxation rainforest soundtracks except it was real.
There is a water lily filled pond…
… several springs and waterfalls…
… fountains and grottoes, and the most delightful chapel ruin that seriously felt like it was a fairy’s playground. It reminded me of a small version of Ta Prohm temple in Cambodia with the overgrown vines and tree roots taking hold of the foundations. I couldn’t believe how enchanting it was.
We were reluctant to leave the garden but did eventually make it to the palace … and were completely in awe. It’s hard to imagine that people actually owned this amazing place but it was the traditional summer resort of the Portuguese court… built from the ruins of a former palace.
The details were so extraordinary I have no words to explain… rose marble columns…
and patterned plaster… on all the walls.
Wandering around the many rooms, we ooo’d and aaah’d at the gorgeous intricate decorations adorned with gold…
… carved archways…
…marble relief and the most stunning ornate decorative ivory ‘lace’ arches.
The ceilings we all ornate and absolutely stunning.
Seriously there are no words. My kind of heaven…
… all combined with gorgeous panoramic views overlooking the Lawn and wider estate..
And just to make it even better I discovered an interesting fact- Monserrate Palace is completely self-sufficient and uses 100% renewable energy produced through wind power, hydropower, and solar power. I love it when heavily touristed places are doing their part to mitigate the footprint of all of those travelers!
But what really astonished me is that this place is frequently overlooked by visitors to Sintra in favor of some of the more renowned (but not nearly as captivating) attractions. Ironically, it’s one of the least visited palaces in Sintra!
As we dragged ourselves away, our plan was now to take a path through the beautiful forest between Monserrate and the Capuchos convent… a humble 16th century monastery nestled in the forest offering a serene contrast to Sintra’s grand palaces. I was looking toward to this but found out that a big storm a few months ago had closed both the track and the convent. So we headed into the historical town centre of Sintra.
The historic center is small but nice, with lots of restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops…
… street musicians, horse-drawn carriages… and crowds… and the National Palace in the center of the main square.
We wandered the narrow cobbled streets. It is bustling with tourists with many of the shops selling tourist crap but still charming.
Even the street signs are beautiful hand painted tiles.
A quick trip back to our B&B and we were off again, walking uphill back to the mysterious Quinta de Regalia where we had attempted to visit first thing this morning. This is a historic home dating back to 19th century, built in a fusion of architectural styles…
… and as soon as we stepped into this place it felt like entering a secret world… filled with interesting sculptures, stunning towers everywhere looking like something out of Romeo and Juliette or maybe Rapunzel…
… fountains, benches…
… grottos…
…lakes…
… paths that lead to nowhere… twisting tunnels.
Hidden doors, moss-covered walls and of course the famous mysterious (super crowded) initiation well- where every step down feels like unravelling a mystery.
It was quickly dark and wet and is a little unnerving to realise that these wells were never used for storing water.
Was it for secret rituals connected to tarot mysticism, Templar myths and Freemasonry? A passage to another realm? No one really knows but the magic here is undeniable as the winding Gothic spiral led us deep below to underground galleries and a beautiful enigmatic garden. Sintra is full of beauty… but this place? Its pure mystery and wonder.
The gardens were spectacular… like walking into the Fern Gully movie!
The sun was shining through the canopy and there was beautiful greenery all around us. Flowers were blooming…
… lily pads, moss covering all the rocks, and the sound of running water everywhere. A gorgeous chapel…
… and, as always, stunning views.
I’ve been watching the many influencers around Lisbon and Sintra and think I’ve become pretty good at capturing Annie looking gorgeous. I think she needs to get onto social media- don’t you think? 😂
We walk back to Sintra town to a little bar with a panoramic view over the National palace and stunning villas all around, and have a wine before finding a traditional restaurant where we could sit inside out of the cold (yes the weather is very different from the conditions we arrived in Lisbon to) and then back to our B&B and a long hot bath for me. My body is really feeling every year of my age with 22,485 steps today… on cobbles… all uphill. Definitely in need of a good nights sleep.
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“The Town of Queens”
I think Anne had decided after our not so successful escapade to Nazaré, that she wouldn’t follow me on my next one. But oh I wish she had… because it was really picture perfect despite arriving in the rain. It actually reminded me a little of some of the beautiful medieval towns we had visited in other parts of Europe in previous trips.
Just an hour from Lisbon, Óbidos is a gorgeous walled town… one of the most intact medieval villages in Portugal- with picturesque colourful artists houses adorned with bright flowers…
… Gothic passageways and quaint cobblestone streets.
White-washed houses surround its imposing 12th century castle and I meandered down to the historic centre of the village to discover a labyrinth of ancient, cobbled streets with busy squares, inviting cafes and restaurants and a myriad of quaint shops.
Yes it’s a bit of a tourist trap but the city is so pretty that one of Portugal’s kings gave this village to his bride to be, resulting in being nicknamed as “The Town of Queens”.
The minute I arrived at the town gate, the Porta da Vila I was already in love. I could hear the mournful sounds of fado folk music even before I walked inside and then I was awed by the artwork of the gate itself.
Adorned with stunning blue-and-white azulejo tiles from the 18th century depicting the Virgin Mary and other religious motifs, it symbolises the town’s strong connection to faith and artistry. I stayed for ages listening to the wonderful buskers tunes and to take in its beauty and character of the gate… imagining the many travellers, merchants, and soldiers who have entered the town through this historic gateway.and just to make it even more amazing, it is also a chapel. On the second storey, you can see the famous azulejos tiles that make this town gate one of the most beautiful in Europe!
Dominating the town’s skyline, the magnificent Moorish Óbidos Castle is one of Portugal’s most iconic medieval fortresses. With walls so impressive that it was chosen as one of the “seven wonders of Portugal”, The walls are 13m high and an incredible 1.6km in length once a defensive stronghold and royal residence, the castle has been loop transformed into a luxurious pousada (historic inn).
I immersed myself in the history, walking along the castles old but well preserved, fortified walls… like stepping back in time, into the shoes of medieval guards who once watched the town… except I had a camera… that I couldn’t stop clicking.
The views from the top are breathtaking, giving a bird’s-eye perspective of red-tiled rooftops, lush vineyards, and rolling hills stretching into the distance.
The walls encircle the town, creating a nearly 360-degree panoramic view of the countryside. The walk was steep and uneven, with some sections with no guard rails, and I do have a fear of heights… but I’ve never been able to resist a pretty view.
Indulging my church obsession, I visited the Igreja de Santa Maria… a beautiful 16th-century church located in the main square. Its understated white walls contrast with the stunning intricate blue-and-white azulejo tiles adorning the interiors, depicting biblical scenes. The church has a beautifully painted ceiling that inspired local embroidery patterns and also houses a significant Renaissance tomb and exquisite artwork. The atmosphere feels sacred and timeless as you step inside, reminding you of the ceremonies and prayers held here for centuries.
Óbidos is a UNESCO City of Literature, and I stumbled upon unique bookstores in unexpected places, like the Livraria de Santiago, located inside a 13th-century church.
I had a little lunch and then hopped on the bus back to Lisbon as I had organised to meet Anne at the national Tile museum. I imagine that does sound super boring and odd and I’m not really one to spend a lot of time in museums, but the azulejo tiles of Portugal are AMAZING and I was really looking forward to it.
I didn’t really think of tiles as an art form until I traveled to Lisbon, where the buildings are famous for their stunning azulejo tiles. And this museum is the grand central station of azulejos and celebrates their history, creation and artistry. It was quite fascinating to visit with some beautiful examples of tiles from different parts of Portugal’s history.
The museum is inside an old 16th century monastery…
… with a chapel inside decorated in full Portuguese baroque splendour, with gilded and carved wood, paintings and tile panels.
And there was also a gorgeous café inside appropriately adorned with 18th-century tiles.
I couldn’t believe after five days in Lisbon, we hadn’t made it to the Se Cathedral so we made a quick visit… which perhaps we could have given a miss. All cathedrals are stunning in their own way… their enormity, ornate details etc etc but have to say I found this one quite uninspiring.
We dined at the Time Out Market… a very bustling, well-curated food court with lots of delicious options: essentially the top restaurants and chefs of Lisbon each have a booth here.
On our way home back in Alfama, Anne felt like a port so we stopped in a little restaurant and once again listened to some wonderful Fado music, which I have really developed a taste for.
A new adventure tomorrow as we leave Lisbon for Sintra, which I believe is magical. Watch this space.
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You might almost hear their footsteps if you listen hard enough
I remember years ago when I was travelling in Rajasthan India with my sister Lou. We were in Jaipur for the Elephant festival and thought we’d visit the iconic pink palace… that looks like this.
Except it didn’t. It looked like this instead.
Well our day today started a bit like that… as we headed towards Belém. Our first stop was the Tower of Belém… a stunning 500-year-old castle like fortress, standing next to the Tagus River, and one of the most iconic sights of Lisbon. This UNESCO site is a wonder to behold… without scaffolding. The bane of a travellers existence (well one of them)! Oh well… 🤷🏼♀️
So we headed off to the famous pastelaria, Pasteis de Belem, which in theory, serves the most delectable Portuguese tarts in the world… the very original makers of what is now a delicacy all over the world… and a definite personal favourite. At home, I love to go the The Farm near Byron Bay whenever possible, to savour one of their delicious and huge versions of these tarts. Pasteis de Belem began making them in 1837 following an ancient recipe from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. That secret recipe is recreated daily. We took a seat and enjoyed the café’s beautiful tiled interior and I, of course, devoured a pasteis de Belem and Anne a croissant… neither of which were a favourite. But you never know until you go.
Our main stop for this part of town is the UNESCO listed Jeronimos Monastery. We arrive right on opening having been advised to come early and there is already a huge queue. It doesn’t move quickly as they seem to give priority to group tours and only let people in small numbers, so as not to cause overcrowding. This is both a blessing and a curse. While we wait I buy a pretty scarf from a gypsy- probably paid too much but everyone has to make a living.
The outside of the building is stunning so at least we have something to look at as we while away the hours.
Finally, after 1 3/4 hours, we get to the front of the queue and present our online tickets purchased just a few hours ago. We are told that the tickets have expired and we would need to leave the queue and go across the road and repurchase tickets from the ticket office… and try to get our money back from the scamming company that sold them. Another 15 minutes and they allow us back to the front of the queue and we finally enter after 2 hours. This had better be worth it!
And Oh my goodness, was it ever! My brother Anthony loved this place and I can certainly understand why… an undisputed heart-stealer… the stuff of pure fantasy. Wrought for the glory of God, the mosteiro was once populated by monks of the Order of St Jerome, whose spiritual job for four centuries was to comfort sailors and pray for the king’s soul. When the order was dissolved in 1833, the monastery was used as a school and orphanage, until about 1940.
It is amazing architecturally and there’s nothing like the moment you walk into the honey-stone cloisters… their staggering size… dripping with organic detail in their delicately scalloped arches, twisting turrets and columns intertwined with leaves, vines and knots… plus gargoyles and fantastical beasties.
It simply wowed us…
… but there was such a sense of tranquility and spirituality here…
… you could feel the presence of times past and I could just imagine the monks in their robes wandering prayerfully all those years ago. You might almost hear their footsteps if you listen hard enough. We wandered in awe… photographing and admiring every detail and enjoying the feeling of silence that once ruled.
There is a church attached to the monastery apparently with tree-trunk-like columns that seem to grow into the ceiling, which is itself a spiderweb of stone… and where Superstar Vasco da Gama is interred. I also really wanted to see this but we would have had to join another long queue to get in and sadly, we decided to continue on with the big day I had planned.
We jumped a Bolt to the LX factory… a huge mid-19th century abandoned grungy textiles factory turned hip, creative, cultural and gastronomic precinct filled with start-ups, shops, restaurants, cafes and bars with terraces spilling out onto the sidewalk alongside fantastic gift stores and studios with small makers, artisans and creatives. The outside walls of many of the buildings and walls are covered in awesome street art with murals by some of Portugal’s top street artists…
… including Bordallo II, whose art I had read about before the trip and had seen other pieces around Lisbon. He uses our waste that would normally go into landfill, to create sculptures with an important message of sustainability. Amazing!
We struggled to decide where to eat but choose a little modern Mexican cantina where we had a bite and indulged in margaritas (spicy of course for me).
We walked to The Rainbow Underpass… an incredible rainbow tile mural I had heard about…
… and then continued on to The Estrela Basilica or the Royal Basilica and Convent of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus… a minor basilica and ancient Carmelite convent. We noticed signs for “The beauty is a choice” exhibition and decided we may as well check it out. So glad we did… a most wonderful art exhibition set around the old cloisters and garden of the basilica.
We met the lovely artist Veronika Blyzniuchenko, who was painting onsite.
We just loved this exhibition and thought of our art addicted friend Glenda who would also have so appreciated the beauty here. I wanted to purchase a tiny Mary painting but found it was already sold… I seem to be strangely drawn back to my Catholic routes in this land with a bit of a Mary obsession- I already picked up a cool Mary medal necklace in a little market we visited.
Described as “Ornate, Baroque, 18th-century church with twin bell towers, housing Queen Maria I’s tomb”, Estrela Basilica is beautiful from the outside…
… but the inside is breathtaking. I am a little obsessed with visiting churches and last year, my tour guide in Romania said she’d never met someone in her years of guiding that so much wanted to see churches. There is so much beauty in them… so much history… so much prayer and so many tears. I regularly admire the beauty and majesty and even marvel at the workmanship but some really touch something deeper in me. And this was one of those… such a beautiful building with incredible detail and a wonderful presence.
We stroll through the Estrela parklands opposite and then once again climbed the gorgeous cobbled Lisbon streets with their sparkling azulejo clad buildings… and endless panoramic views and blooming jacarandas… where everything is somehow uphill both ways for our daily cardio session.
Eventually we make it to the Convento do Carmo… and you’ve likely never seen a place like this before. What a wonderful historical site. Undisputed wow!
This old monastery dates back to the 13th century but is now a cool museum. But the special thing that gives it uniqueness is the missing roof which was completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1755. It’s basically more a ruin than an actual convent now but still, a very cool place to see!
It feels kind of magical and I could imagine wonderful candlelight concerts or even extravagant parties here under the stars and I believe there has been a light show here with images, sounds and special effects. So my kind of thing.
We stop in a little street cafe just outside the convent for a wine- also my kind of thing…
… before heading home for a quick shower and change. I had been wanting to hear some Portuguese folk music, known as fado, and tonight we decided to go to a little local restaurant with a live performer. Originating in Lisbons bohemian neighbourhoods, the mournful melodies are still popular in the Alfama district where we are staying, and we have heard the soulful singers often vaguely in the background. An enjoyable cultural experience.
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The Chapel of Miracles Memory
Today was perhaps not our best day… or at least not the first half. I had planned to visit the Tile Museum (I know it sounds super boring, but there nothing boring about the Azulejo tiles of Portugal) but turns out it’s closed on Mondays. So we decide to head to a small town about one and a half hours from Lisbon. I book our bus tickets, google where the bus leaves from and we begin our walk there picking up a little breakfast pastel de nata on the way. Of course no walk is easy in Lisbon and we have our now expected cardio session on the hills and stairs of Lisbon. When we finally get to our destination, we find it is not where we need to be and is in fact a long way from it. We decide to call a Bolt (Uber) as it is the only way we could possibly make our bus on time, only it literally gets cancelled on us about 15 times. Frustrated, I quickly go back online and cancel our tickets, booking a later bus and eventually a driver arrives and gets us to the other side of the city. So much wasted time which means that we are only going to arrive at our destination after 2pm which gives a very small exploration window. Oh well- that’s how it goes sometimes.
Nazare is known worldwide for its record-breaking monster waves ridden by professional surfers (sadly not to be seen at this time of year) and holds the record for the largest wave ever surfed in the world- over 80feet.
Not my picture- it’s from Google as there were no waves today This little beach town remains a quintessential fishing village and as we wandered along the beach I noticed one of the many remnants of its fishing days… a series of colourful fishing boats that take pride of place on the sand by the promenade. Each has a distinctive paint job, but all bear the name “Nazaré”. Cute.
We eventually hopped on the funicular that since the late 19th century has connected the lower town (in the centre by the beach) with the clifftop SítioDistrict. As we ascended, we enjoyed stunning panoramic views of the Atlantic and the town below.
Almost immediately after exiting the funicular, we arrived at Mirador del Suberco which offers more sweeping views of the terracotta roofs of the city and coastline below.
There was a nice looking restaurant/bar that seemed perfect for a little wine but we thought that with so little time, it wasn’t our priority. At least not yet. A few vendors hawked their tourist nicnacs, drinks and snacks and we passed a cute little shop with surfing memorabilia and art and craft.
And then on the edge of the mirador we saw the chapel of Our Lady of Nazare (also known as the Chapel of the Miracles Memory) which is actually what had brought me here.
I had seen some pictures of the tiny chapel and I’d been obsessed with it ever since. I’m sure many people would think I am crazy to spend all day to get to a little chapel that literally takes two minutes to visit but that’s the travel crazy in me 🤷🏼♀️.
This tiny chapel is packed with history and religious significance with an intriguing legend about the Virgin Mary saving a nobleman from a fatal fall. It is also stunning! The interior azulejo tiles had me awestruck and stepping inside truly felt like being hugged by history.
The 14th century Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazare was our next stop… a typical Portuguese church…
… with a beautiful wooden ceiling and extraordinary decorations…
also housing a statue of Mary breastfeeding baby Jesus. This wooden statue is traditionally from the 1st century and is believed to have been carved by St. Joseph and painted by St. Luke. It also had extraordinary azulejo tile work like the tiny chapel visited earlier.
There was more to see but time was already moving on so we decided to stop by the restaurant seen earlier for a drink and a nibble… no such luck as it was just closing. So we headed back down the funicular and found a little bar on the beach where we could soak up the laid-back, beachy energy and have a wine and cheese platter before our bus journey home.
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 