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Like a lamb to the slaughter- my first Hamam experience… and more
The marble slab in the centre of the room at the Turkish Hamam is like a sacrificial altar. Me, the ceremonial lamb, splayed across one edge ready to be slaughtered with an exfoliating mitt and bubbles at the hands of a burly Turkish woman.
I had heard about this but never actually experienced it as the last time I was here I was too afraid. More than ten years later… and ten years braver, it was one experience that I was looking forward to (sort of)… and as a lovely bonus, C&J had offered it to me as a birthday present.
But despite being a willing participant, I awaited my destiny at the Hamam, with a little trepidation and nervous laughter. This is nothing like a spa at home… if that’s what you’re thinking. There are no lounge chairs or soft rainforest music playing. No spa pools or soaking in the water of natural springs. There are no private rooms- Hamams are communal… so I am not alone lying virtually naked on the hard marble alter… with not too much idea of what’s going on.
It is a very traditional hamam… completely authentic… not glamorous and not an influencer in sight. No one speaks a word of English, so I really didn’t have a clue what to do… but after stripping off and wrapping myself in a Turkish towell I worked out, by watching another more experienced woman, I was supposed to throw a lot of water on myself before being grunted at to lie face down on the hard but warm marble slab.
My ‘attendant’ is a largish, middle-aged Turkish woman… very wet and half naked.
My fate is in her hands. The onslaught begins when the scrubbing mitt is swiped across my back in long sweeping motions, and I can’t decide if it feels like a wire brush or very course sand paper. I’m wearing underwear but I may as well not be as the woman is an experienced wedgie giver… and there is no room for inhibitions here.
A body tap signals me to roll over, where the process begins again, almost EVERYWHERE. I lie there looking at the ceiling thinking, this does not look like the pretty pictures I have seen on social media with pretty mosaic designs. No- this ceiling is plain white and well covered with mould (although everything else seems clean enough 🤷🏼♀️). Eventually she pulls me up into a sitting position and asks, “Face?” I almost laugh and quickly say no thank-you as the idea of having my face exfoliated with sandpaper like the rest of my body, is somehow not appealing. She unexpectedly douses me with a big bucket of cold water over my head and actions me to go and have a shower to wash the top few layers of my skin off which is now in dark rolls all over me. Any trace of a suntan that I may have acquired in my last two weeks in the sun vanish down the drain.
The next round is bubbles, and is strangely delicious and very soothing as my entire, now red raw body is doused with foamy goodness. The last time I remember being this soapy was when my kids put a full bottle of bubble bath into my mums spa and flooded not just her bathroom with bubbles but her bedroom.
I eventually leave after a rather oily massage, feeling relaxed and perhaps cleaner than I’ve ever been in my life. It’s completely impossible to find full clarity in this experience, no matter how much I try to explain it and I may be left with some profound mental images I will never forget. But I loved it… as a rejuvenating wellness experience and can’t stop laughing when I think about it.
So we are in Bodrum now… actual Bodrum city (ancient Halicarnassus), as opposed to somewhere on the Bodrum peninsula where we have been on and off for the last few weeks.
Bodrum. A town that smells of the sun, sea, gastronomy and history. One of the most glamorous of all Turkey’s seaside getaways, this white washed town beneath a castle is a lively mix of cool bars, restaurants and shops juxtaposed with quaint, quiet streets and pretty cafes.
We wandered the quiet white-plastered backstreets overhung with bougainvillea…
… past its glittering marina…
… and into the narrow, winding, cobbled alleyways of Bodrum’s Old Town… a maze of souvenir shops, flower-filled cafes, boutiques and fish restaurants… soaking up the local atmosphere and a respite from the sun, with narrow alleyways providing shade in the heat of the day.
We are staying at the amazing and quirky Ha La- a charming family run bohemian style place with an amazing tranquil garden. A centuries old Ottoman stone building surrounded by lush lemon trees and bougainvillea, encircled with high stone walls… An oasis which does not let the chaos in and harbors the tranquility of history and nature… all while being only minutes from the action. I love it from first sight (despite having to shower while literally sitting on the toilet as the bathroom is so tiny) and we regularly spend time relaxing in the peaceful garden… sitting under the lemon trees among lazy cats strolling around… eating breakfast or drinking wine.
The ancient ruins of the Castle of St Peter, perched on a natural peninsula in the bay, dominates Bodrum and its well-preserved walls, towers, and courtyards stand as silent witnesses to centuries gone by. Apparently built in the 15th century by crusader knights from England, France, Italy and Germany, who each constructed one of its four towers.
We walked around the remains and imagined what the castle was like originally and marvelled again at how structures like this were built all those years ago… and at the stunning views from all sides.
We hike up to the white windmills on the hilltops, standing in blissful silence above the harbour. Built in the 18th century… the derelict structures look every year of their age.
But the views of the water and harbour are pretty spectacular once again.
Stopped briefly at the historical site of Bodrum Amphitheatre, which dates from the Hellenistic periods and imagined a time when gladiators would battle until one of their opponents was brutally killed… more recently used for theatre and music concerts. Much more civilized!
We hung out at Yula bar, one of the coolest bars in Bodrum with its stone walls, rustic woodwork and arty decor… right on the beach with an unobstructed view of the medieval castle and the stunning clear waters of the sea… and immersed ourselves in the enchanting world of the Aegean, one cocktail at a time, as the sun set.
What a vibe! We couldn’t get enough… so returned again and again. On my birthday we sat on deck chairs with our feet in the water and sunned ourselves for the last time, swimming in the cool azure waters and soaked in the beauty around us.
On our last day, we had a unique experience visiting the village of Stratonikeia which is one of the significant archaeological sites in Asia Minor.
Now I have to say that ruins are generally not really my thing… or at least not for more than about half an hour but this place has been inhabited continuously from the Late Bronze Age (1500 BC) to the present day with structures and architectural marvels from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Turkish eras (including temples, public buildings, a huge gymnasium and private residences).
It really was an extraordinary experience… like stepping back in time… exploring the streets of the old village amongst crumbling Ottoman houses…
… and coming across the ruins of the ancient city. An ancient city within a living village! And excavations are still in process… the women excavating literally found a little round coin looking thing while we were watching (we weren’t allowed to take pictures as it hadn’t been documented yet).
And this is all set against a backdrop of stunning natural beauty with the surrounding landscape of rolling hills, lush vegetation, and clear skies… with huge wild pomegranates hanging from the trees all around us.
But the actual reason we were here was with the beautiful and talented Maya, who combined with two other artists, is planning an exhibition here next year, complete with opera… which all sounds incredible… if only it weren’t so far away.
We were welcomed into one of the other artists home (he lives here amongst the ruins) in the most gorgeous, truly rustic and authentic stone home.
Such a picturesque setting… with a beautiful garden… providing a serene and peaceful environment, perfect for reflecting on the history that surrounded us.
And perfect to enjoy the offered hospitality with delicious traditional Turkish dishes of fresh vegetables from the garden, olive oil, cheese, jams and a variety of herbs and spices. Even the fresh pomegranate juice was flavoured with basil. We finished with a meditation where we each held a small piece of history in our hands and made a wish (Johnny stay well 💗).
I am a little anxious as I say goodbye to the boys and continue on solo for the rest of my adventure. Still 2 weeks to go in new and exciting destinations. And I think to myself… what a wonderful world
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Left behind
I remember years ago reading the books Left Behind- the entertaining series about the rapture and end of the world loosely based on the book of Revelation which was written by the apostle John while living in exile on the island of Patmos.
So, Patmos, is sometimes called the Isle of St John or the Island of Revelation… and is a significant pilgrimage site. It is targeted by thousands of Christians who visit to see many of its churches and hermitages, but above all, to see the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian and the Holy Cave of the Apocalypse.
So, soon after arrival we decided to take the local bus up to Chora to explore the fortress like monastery dedicated to the saint, and the whitewashed houses on the streets below it. Only when we got to the monastery, it wasn’t open. We decided to wander anyway… and it was just the weirdest thing. There was not a soul around in the whole town… and it felt like literally every other person except us had been raptured and we’d been left behind.
The island of Patmos looks like a picture-perfect postcard of an idyllic Greek island- especially in the beautiful town of Chora which has the second most expensive real estate in Greece… and I can understand why. White washed houses and narrow cobbled streets fill this town set high above sea level overlooking an impressive sprawl of bays. It has it all! Wow!
Just strolling along the car-free maze of tiny alleyways…
… through vaulted archways… filled with Byzantine mysticism… covered passageways with gorgeous little nooks and details…
… cute and interesting shops…
… and past dazzlingly white and mostly immaculately maintained impressive houses with colourful shutters, makes you feel like you could be in the 16th or 17th century- which is when many of them were built. Small, charming and peaceful… where a rare mystical silence presides… especially because there was no people anywhere. This is in some ways a great bonus for me as usually I am waiting for ages trying to take photos with minimal or no people in them. But it just felt really strange.
We actually got lost in the cobbled streets but soon enough stumbled on the most charming but completely deserted little square, most likely a little bubble of busyness in open times. Cute traditional tavernas, colourful cocktail bars and a handful of elegant restaurants and boutiques comprise the social scene of the tiny town… when there are people there.
But we wandered the stunning and very chic town in spooky silence.
On the edge of town we walked to the three ancient restored windmills (I have a bit of a thing about windmills).
We did manage to make it back when everything was open and surprisingly the town was still almost deserted… despite the few tour groups at the monastery.
Perched right at the top of town, where it’s been since the 11th century, Chora’s crowning glory… the Byzantine castle and monastery dedicated to St. John, is still the home of monks today.
Within the monastery, the various chapels and monastic cells reveal the deep, religious significance of Patmos.
There’s also a museum with rare Byzantine icons and historical artefacts (several of which I would have been very happy to find a place for in my home).
There are tall church bells, domed corridors and pebbled courtyards.
But the most lasting memory will probably still be the panoramic view from every vantage point.
Located pretty close to the monastery and considered one of the most sacred places in the Christian world is the Cave of the Apocalypse where St John is said to have heard the voice of God, had prophetic visions of the Apocalypse and written the Book of Revelations. Inside the narrow cave, there is a magnificent rock with a triple crack on the solid rock, thought to be made by God when he spoke to Saint John.
We are staying in Skala and, even though the setting is not as unique as Chora’s, we found it to be a lively seaside village with lots of tavernas, cafes and boutiques in its squares and streets… and full of life all hours of the day.
And I finally got to eat the grilled octopus I had been hanging out for.
Our boutique hotel apartment… the Patmos Eye… is stunning! It simply did its magic and we always ended up glued to the verandah, amazed by the amazing view.
We decide to do a boat cruise to a group of neighbouring islands we heard about in Leros but were unable to visit. The Greek Islands have all been kissed by Mother Nature… but what a sensational day… a feast for the eyes… sun-drenched and plentiful. These Islands are heavenly… full of unspoiled beaches, rocky islets, turquoise-coloured beaches, outstanding crystal clear water and traditional Greek villages. The highlight could have been the crystalline beach of Tiganakia… where the colour of the water rivals the Maldives.
Or was it Makronisi with beautiful rock formations and caves where the water literally seemed to be luminous. I desperately wanted a waterproof camera to capture the amazing colour.
But I think my favourite was the “white” island Aspronisi. It rises from the sea as a high white bare rock with some low shrubs and a breathtaking and unspoiled beach of white rocks…
… with hundreds of stone towers made by previous visitors, surrounded by turquoise waters.
These places are all like the backdrops from my dreams and although I’m not usually much of a swimmer, I couldn’t keep out of the water.
Everywhere was amazing including our lunch spot on Arki island where we ate in one of the lovely rustic traditional tavernas on the beach, and savoured some delicious tender goat for lunch. Sensational memorable and long day.
Everywhere we go or look there are cute little churches and miniature chapels… on rocks, in the mountains… by the sea… everywhere! It is claimed that for the size of the island, there are more churches here than anywhere else in the world. And I’d believe it!
We had a few stressful and tense moments driving a hire car to be able to get to some of the more inaccessible sights. Poor Johnny (as Chrissy or I won’t drive)… with us getting lost and pretty stuck in tiny streets with no room to manoeuvre… or needing to reverse on a cliffs edge. At one stage we nearly drove down some stairs that we didn’t realise were there. That’s why I will never drive in Europe! Well done Johnny!
We decide to go to the recommended ‘best beach on Patmos’, Psili Amos. To many, this small paradise remains elusive as the only way reach it is by private boat or trekking… and we chose the latter.
On the way we briefly stopped at the rustic Petra beach, with the sound of goat bells tinkling on the hills opposite… to see the stone of Kalikatsou… a big rock connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land.
We then head out on a very rocky but well-trotted donkey track, over the cliff top hills… with extraordinarily barren but beautiful terrain…
… via a few stunning azure blue bays…
… to the picturesque cove of Psili Amos…
… with calm clear water, pure golden sand (unusual for a Greek island) and sweeping dunes, with many tamarisk trees providing shade. The lone taverna is the only sign of civilisation.
The goat stew had been recommended (we had noticed the goats all around the surrounding mountains as we walked) however, there was none left. But the food was amazingly well cooked with fresh ingredients. Very traditional. And the drinks were cold.
Despite being the busiest beach we visited, its unique character and tranquility persist, somehow avoiding the beachside hustle and bustle. The epitome of a rustic Greek island experience.
Patmos was a true “revelation”… not what we expected at all. We came thinking we’d find a small rustic island, but instead its found a stunning spiritually mystic island with a Cycladic chic sophisticated air.
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Are there different parts of heaven?
I’m in heaven. But I thought I was in heaven last week. And then, the week before. So I’m wondering if there’s different parts of heaven. Is there a Turkish part? And a Greek part? And do you have to choose… or is it just allocated depending on how good you’ve been (I think that’s my catholic upbringing coming out). I hope I don’t have to choose because… how could you choose? Everywhere is amazing!
Anyway- this part of heaven is called Leros and it has cool pristine water, lots of colourful fishing boats, blue blue skies that go on forever without a cloud and the cutest little rustic bars and restaurants you’ve ever seen.
This adventure began with a ferry from Bodrum to Kos where we had a few hours to kill before the onward ferry… so ate a pretty bad breakfast in another tourist trap… and had a little wander.
And then on to Leros via Kalymnos. The ferry stops at various islands along the way, much like a municipal bus service… and we will be using it again when we move on. It’s a lovely way to travel… if you could only skip the inefficient Greek immigration part.
There are a number of Greek Islands that you probably find on every top 10 list… Santorini, Mykonos… Milos… maybe Paros… but I think Leros island, which is quite remote, is never one of them! It hasn’t the landscape of Santorini or the nightlife of Mykonos, or the beaches of Zante or Kefalonia. But I think all the Greek Islands have been kissed by Mother Nature and Leros is a hidden gem that has an unexpected and authentic character and beauty… and chilled atmosphere that made me fall in love with it instantly. It truly exceeded all my expectations!
We are staying in Panteli village… a pretty seaside fishing village with that quiet, picturesque charm that has sadly disappeared from many Greek island resorts. There are boutique hotels and quaint beachfront tavernas lining the small pebbly beach… that are still bustling with people compared to most places we have been.
Surrounded by green trees and steep mountains and overlooked by the ancient Panagia Castle…
… and the six iconic restored windmills of Leros…
… this beach is just gorgeous. Swimming with the fish in the crystal clear shallow waters was just magical and we spent much of our time just hanging out here.
We watched the goings on at the tiny fishing harbor at the end of the beach and saw the fishermen tend to their nets and tiny colourful fishing boats.
And of course I rise early to see the sunrise and embrace the ephemeral beauty of changing light and moments in time.
We wander Agia Marina, the heart of the island- through the narrow picturesque alleyways filled with history, graceful old mansions with stone or wooden balconies decked with brightly colored flowers, whitewashed stone walls, colourful seaside cafes and houses lined up along the waterfront.
This is where we visited the recommended Mylos… the most famous restaurant on Leros Island, where the setting is as sensational as the food… located right by the sea in the center of the island overlooking an old historic windmill which seems to hover over the water right outside its window. Everything was superb.
I think it would be impossible to eat badly on Leros, and the food was often exceptional – prawn and pumpkin risotto at Pirofani Tavern… the Kataifi cheese or swordfish at Psaropoula where tables are wedged into the pebbled shoreline… or the aubergine and shiitake ravioli with sea-bass and baklava with a twist at Mylos. There is even a delicious bakery/ice creamery right next door to our hotel where we have eaten delicious pastries and traditional cakes like patsavouropita (a syrupy filo and yoghurt cake) for breakfast along with the occasional ice cream. And literally every single bite has been fantastic!
With all that delicious food, we need to do some walking so we went up to the Castle of Panagia… a medieval fortress above Panteli that offers stunning views of the island and the Aegean Sea.
The castle was apparently built for the people who found refuge in the event of raids by pirates or thieves and dates back to the Byzantine era and was later fortified by the Knights of St. John and was used as a military observation post. We explored the well-preserved walls, chapels, and the panoramic views from the top.
While on top of the hill we also visit the six famous, restored windmills that date back to the 17th-19th centuries.
I really wanted to visit Harris bar that I had read about… one of the six restored windmills converted into a cocktail bar with tiered terraces overlooking the Aegean and a perfect place for a sunset cocktail… but sadly, it was already closed for the season. We went up to have a look anyway and the view was absolutely mesmerizing; I was amazed by the beauty of Leros as we looked at the island from this hill.
Lime beach bar in Merikia beach had also been recommended so we taxied to its remote location and found a gorgeous very rustic private beach bar… pretty much the antithesis of the luxury resorts and nightlife we have been experiencing in Bodrum. There is no luxury here… but I prefer rustic character anyway. Loved this place with its cool music, great cocktails, basic but delicious food and chilled out vibes!
We visit the tiny church of Agios Isadoros… a super cute little chapel on a small islet joined to the main island by a causeway. Very picturesque!
And we wander the local village…
So hard to leave this place and that sensation of having sidestepped real life. But another island beckons and we are off once again…
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Bougainvillea paradise
In a bit of a nightmare of a travel day, due to flight delays and a resulting missed connection, two 90 minutes flights ended up taking 12 hours and we arrived too late for the planned welcome dinner. All part of travel I guess. But no matter the time, it was wonderful to arrive at the beautiful Maya’s house and catch up with her and Aruna… C&Js longtime friends. This is what this whole trip has been planned around and for me, has been a dream for many years.
When I’m travelling I always feel like I need to maximise every minute… waking up at sunrise to avoid the crowds… walking at least 10kms a day… watching the sunset every night and checking everything from the bucket list… which sometimes makes me into a crazy person. Sleep is for when you get home. I rarely stay anywhere for more than a couple of days… and if I do, there are big day trips planned into every moment. But this trip is different… with most of the activity planned around connection with people that C&J have befriended over the nearly 20 years they have been holidaying here. Relaxing on a sun-bed by the water, long lunches and dinners, music, cocktails or wine while the afternoon sun slants low, hazy as a dream, and paints the water gold… are all the order of the day… or week…
The Bodrum Peninsula, named after the seaside resort town near its centre, is world renowned as one of the Mediterranean’s most glamorous hangouts for celebrities and the jet-setting elite who flock here in the summer months to holiday on the beautiful Turkish Riviera.
And this place is a bougainvillea paradise, which if anyone knows me, will know that leaves me in a constant state of excitement.
And with a mix of exclusive luxury resorts and laid-back coastal villages, various ancient sites for sightseeing (not really my thing), exquisite bays, turquoise sea, mild Mediterranean climate and vibrant night life… there is something for everyone.
But strangely, there are few people around.
It is the end of summer and the season is all but finished. Which I don’t really understand as it seems like the perfect time of year to me- there is a slight chill in the air in the early mornings and the daytime maximums are 27ish° with a lovely light breeze instead of the blistering 40° or 45°c of a few weeks ago. Even the small number of people actually appeals to me even though it may lack the hectic vibe of the high summer that many people seem to thrive on. And there is the added advantage of being able to get in anywhere, at anytime… if they’re still open. If this were somewhere in Australia, it would be packed at this time of year, but not here… and within a couple of weeks, everything will be closed for many months.
We are staying in Türkbükü (or Göltürkbükü) in a stunning bougainvillea clad home…
… overlooking the sparkling crystal blue Aegean Sea.
Minutes down the road are up-market boutiques, an array of luxury resorts and hotels, world-class dining and beach clubs that cater to a sophisticated crowd with high budget tastes…
… a world very different from the one I usually inhabit. I walk ‘the strip’ at different times of the day… sunrise of course…
… sometimes later… clicking away as I do… past the array of stunning restaurants and beach clubs with their huge cabanas and daybeds available for rental…
… the beautiful people sunning themselves under the shade of undulating canopies.
So many boutiques selling clothing, home goods, souvenirs and jewellery… so much jewellery.
The beautiful little bay is dotted with luxury super-yachts (we notice one with a helicopter on the back)…
Look closely at the boat behind the beach club to see it’s helipad complete with helicopter … sailboats, speedboats and fishing boats bobbing along the coast…
… and white villas sprinkled on the hillside.
We continue strolling the peninsula to Golkoy beach… a little away from the glitterati of Türkbükü… and a little more laid back. I love it here with the crystal clear sea basically lapping right up to the rustic little boutique hotels and this is where I would stay if I was ever to come back again.
But back in Türkbükü, nestled perfectly into the bay’s lush Bougainvillea bushes with beautiful views over the whole bay,
… and literally just up the road from Mayas house, Maçakizi is one of most luxurious hotels… and we regularly visit it’s gorgeous and vibrant beach club for a swim.
Once again, I am so aware of my privilege as usually swimming here does not come free or even cheap. But as C&J have a friendship with the manager and we are welcomed. I love it here… authentically Turkish yet completely international, modern yet rustic, simple and unpretentious, every detail from the jet set inhabited private beach, to the fine dining restaurant… barefoot and sexy.
Whitewashed suites tumble down the richly landscaped hillside among bougainvillea and oleander;
… then deck after deck for eating and drinking and dancing or just hanging out… all the way to the sea.
It’s hard to explain how much I loved this place… and photos definitely do not do it justice… just lounging while taking in gorgeous views of the bay, listening to music, drinking rosé, swimming in the sea, and chatting with C&J. And each time we come, I just don’t want to leave. Literally heaven on earth!
One evening we head off to Gümüslük and I am thrilled as I have heard about this area over the years and know it is my kind of place… one of the hippest and hippyest spots to hang out in Bodrum. As we approached the bay, the first thing that struck me is the fantastic views… although there are fantastic views everywhere we go. That stunning Aegean Sea! Clear waters stretch as far as the eye can see, and gentle sea breezes carry the scent of salt and adventure.
And the first part of our adventure is the bohemian Limon cafe, hidden high in the green hills… with a hippy vibe and scenic landscape views heading out to sea.
This delightful ‘patched-together’ outdoor cafe has been decorated with relaxation in mind… with its mismatched eclectic mix of vintage wooden chairs and tables, sofas and big cushions laying on straw rugs scattered about the hillside… bright painted sculptures and festoon lighting strung tree to tree. I immediately love it!
The hillside is abuzz… it is a popular spot and it’s perfect to sip on a margarita…
… and watch the sun dip into the Aegean for a glorious Turkish sunset.
The heart of Gümüşlük is its seaside, and after sunset, we meander down a slope where rows of stalls of handmade art and craftwork, jewellery and knick-knacks, are tended by the artists themselves.
John hates shopping and there was no time anyway as we had a dinner booking at Mimoza… one of the many rustic lantern-lit fish restaurants that line Gümüslük’s sheltered bay filled with bobbing sailboats. The others have all been here before… back in the days when the tables were set literally in the water… but this is not possible anymore although I wish it were.
Lending to the romantic atmosphere is a spectacular trend of decorating the shoreline. Since this eclectic and bohemian town hugs the sea, Gümüşlük’s proprietors have put remnants of trees painted white and adorned with quirky decorations and colourful, twinkle light filled gourd lamps… which also strikingly hang from the ceilings.
Uniquely picturesque… a different world… fairyland. I’m even thinking of possibly trying to replicate a small part of this at home.
We had another spectacular evening where I was told we were going to a Thai restaurant to hear a friend, Hakan, play base with his jazz band. When we arrived I was stunned- I was not expecting an architectural, cultural and gastronomic experience and it was certainly not like any Thai restaurant I have been before.
Situated in the art village called Dibeklihan… with doors that smell of history, works of art, carpets, huge pots, accessories… so many treasures apparently collected from Anatolian cities, take their place in every corner of this village. They are part of the decoration and add soul to this special culture and art space. Doors, stones, ceramics and flower pots from ancient Anatolian houses greet you on the walls and floors. But the ambiance is its most striking feature and it felt like we were sitting in the stunning garden of an old stone castle. And the music was sensational with Turkeys top female jazz vocalist Sibel fronting Hakan’s band. What a night! Just wow!
What an amazing week… so much more than I have, or could possibly write about. So many dinners (at restaurants or in peoples beautiful homes)… or drinks (that weren’t just drinks). We celebrated Johnny’s birthday…
… and the sweetness of life… old friends… and new ones. So much generosity… memories to last a lifetime. We’ll be back briefly after our next escapde
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Where am I again? Switzerland? Canada? Scotland?
The colours of our world have changed from the dry browness of Cappadocia to the lush greenness of the Black Sea region… one of the more untouched parts of Turkey. I knew that our magical few days in Cappadocia would be a hard act to follow… that comparison is the thief of joy… but I had a bad attitude when we arrived and felt that there was little to redeem the city of Trabzon except that it is supposedly the gateway to a beautiful region. Realistically, when people come to Trabzon, it is not to see Trabzon.
A city tour has been arranged with our guide who is googly eyed, and has nicotine-stained mis-shaped teeth. We don’t know where to look… and to make it worse, I am left uninspired, if not completely bored.
Our lunch spot on the river I was happy to head back to our hotel… except that the hotel that our private tour organizer had placed us in was on the outskirts of town, with nothing in the vicinity including restaurants. Not happy Jan (I know Jade, I sound like a brat!)
At least it could only improve from here… and it did. We woke to a stunning blue sky and headed off with our new gorgeous guide Kaan to the ancient 4th century Sumela Monastery… which seems to be glued on the side of a sheer mountain cliff face nearly 4000 feet above the lush green forest (yes, you have to walk all the way up on hundreds of rather slippery steps). A magnificent sight.
This Orthodox monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary has a long history and has undergone many changes.
Today, it’s a museum… and we explored its ancient chapels, chambers and kitchens… and it’s most prominent structure, the Rock Church that features biblical frescoes of Christ and the Virgin Mary (many defaced by stupid tourists).
Crazy to think about how building this amazing structure on a cliff was even possible all those years ago.
We took a leisurely stroll back down the mountain… breathing in the fresh forest air… following the course of the river flowing down through the forest… gurgling over rocks and glittering from the spray of several small waterfalls fed by an abundance of rainfall… as this area is the wettest in all of turkey with rainfall 9 out of 12 months of the year. But thankfully not today!
After a delicious meal at a local fish farm, we headed to the Karaca Cave. This unique masterpiece of nature was meticulously crafted over millions of years but only discovered in 1960 and opened to the public in 1996. Taking a step into the cave you feel like you’ve journeyed to the centre of the earth…
… greeted by many travertines, stalactites, stalagmites, columns, dripstone pools, curtain drop stones and cave flowers (whatever they are)…
… all natural works of art that continue to evolve in different sizes, shapes, and colours… that transport you to a magical world. Standing mesmerized and awestruck, we are reminded yet again of our insignificance in the face of nature.
On our way back to the hotel we stop for a quick look around the city centre and our disappointment in where our hotel is located is confirmed. Why are we not staying in the city centre which is bustling with people, restaurants and cafes? We stop for tea and baklava (the best yet) and wish we could swap hotels.
The following day we head off to the romantic Lake Uzungol… sadly expecting some of that rain that the area is renowned for… leaving early, hoping to get a few hours before it sets in. The picturesque village of Uzungol is a stunning destination known for its cool, clean air, lush green landscapes (due to the heavy rainfall)…
…and calm, reflective waters…
… lying serenely in a valley surrounded by majestic mountains…
… a landscape that is said to resemble Switzerland, with its rolling hills, charming wooden Swiss-style chalets, waterfalls, and fat cows that greet you on your way to the shallow lake surrounded by woods. Except that the valley is dominated by the two minarets of the mosque standing on the edge of the lake. Definitely not Switzerland!
We strolled the lake taking in the tranquility before having tea and baklava at one of the many mountainside restaurants with the perfect vantage point to take in the epic beauty of the lake and its surrounding mountains from above.
And as carnival-style attractions and staged photos seem to be a popular thing to do in Uzungöl and surrounds, we figure “when in Rome”…
We continue driving to higher and higher altitudes towards the Seven Lakes… through the mountains covered by forests with rushing rivers and streams, cascading waterfalls… and apparently bears.
It now feels like Canada instead of Switzerland except… for the little roadside stalls selling handmade shawls and honey. The winding road provides stunning views of the valley although the rain has started and temperature has dropped substantially.
As we climb higher, treeless alpine pastures now surround us, replacing the pine and cypress forests… and it feels like we have arrived in Scotland (once again, except for the mosques).
And the fog has descended with the rain and looks like it’s not leaving in a hurry.
We arrive at the first lake… and no lake! At least not that we can see. A complete whiteout.
Disappointing but at this stage there is no point continuing, so we head back towards Trabzon for our final night and say goodbye to our lovely guide Kaan.
A new adventure awaits tomorrow… what we have talked about for years and what every other part of our Turkey trip has been planned around… and I am excited!
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A magical spectacle
I remember the first time I saw a photo of the hot air balloons dancing above the rooftops at sunrise in Cappadocia. From that moment on, I knew Cappadocia was a place I needed to see in my life. Add to the (very long) bucket list!
Cappadocia is one of the most fascinating places you could ever visit… a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its dreamy moonscapes with whimsical fairy chimneys, cave dwellings and peculiar rock formations (often quite phallic), which were shaped by volcanic activity over 60 million years ago. It’s a place where travellers sleep cave hotels, chase balloons at sunrise and frolic the conical valleys throughout the day. A true fairytale destination!
I think that all the YouTube videos and Instagram posts you might have seen about Cappadocia do not do it justice. This is one of those rare occasions when a place is better than it looks on the internet. And we were literally in awe from the moment we arrived.
With its unique lunar-like landscape and iconic fairy chimneys, the area offers some of the most beautiful views in the world. Cappadocia has an air of magic to it, which only becomes more obvious once the sun illuminates the landscape in its soft morning and evening hues.
The region of Cappadocia is known for its elaborate network of unique cave hotels… each one even more magical than the other!
Most are carved from the soft volcanic rock of the region’s iconic fairy chimneys, creating the ultimate storybook setting. Where else in the world can guests stay in a converted cave room with luxurious decor… with conical panoramas just outside their door?
Our hotel, the Sultans Cave… was a visual delight, each room, corner and terrace… literally every nook and cranny… is rustic and tasteful… decorated with simple artifacts showing the unique history of the area.
Built over the ancient cave dwellings used for centuries by locals, apparently all the original cave walls have been preserved and integrated harmoniously into the room designs.
Our gorgeous room in the Sultans Cave This hotel is Instagram famous (this is where I first saw pictures of it and wanted to stay there)… especially for its beautiful terrace which has the most beautiful view of the legendary hot air balloons floating over the ancient town of Goreme and through the valley… like a scene from a fairytale. At times you felt like you could almost reach out and touch them.
Completely surreal (despite having to fight for a position between all the Influencers)!
The view from the Sultans Cave was also stunning by night!
I have no doubt that there is simply no better place to see the sunrise in Cappadocia than on one of its the hot air balloon rides… although this was not quite to be for us. We arrived at the launching site only to be told that the days balloon flights were cancelled due to wind, which is apparently not really unusual. So disappointing… but God is good and next minute it was back on again but by this time the sun had already risen.
It really didn’t matter. As we serenely floated through the sky, the epic rugged landscape opened before us as the sun illuminated the rock formations and fairy chimneys that have made this region so iconic… and the entire area seemed magical from the basket. It’s an amazing magnificent sight to behold… other-worldly… no words could possibly do it justice.
I was overcome with emotion and cried happy tears… so aware of our privilege… overcome by the beauty of our wonderful world and being able to have this truly unforgettable experience with Chrissy and Johnny.
Visiting Cappadocia and watching the magical spectacle of the hot air balloons rising in the morning with the sun from the stunning rooftop of our hotel… and experiencing the magic of floating above this extraordinary landscape has been perhaps the most amazing traveling experience I’ve had to date.
We also wandered the town filled with fairy chimneys, and stylish cave hotels as well as shops…
… and many juice bars, restaurants and bars- all as gorgeous as each other…
… and to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Open Air Museum… a surreal wonderland of monastery caves and dwellings, impressive rock churches, chapels and well-preserved decorative frescoes dating back to the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries.
Not sure that these couple of days will ever be topped but it’s exciting to be onto a new adventure tomorrow.
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Feel-good vibes for a colour obsessed old hippy
I visited Istanbul years ago and remember it to be a magical city where east meets west… vibrant, exotic, friendly, cheap, full of historical sights, museums, and so many cafes, restaurants and cats. Thousands of cats, apparently owned by no-one, looked after by everyone. It is still all of those things… except cheap!
It’s a fascinating metropolis that bewitches travellers with its stylish streets… unique blend of cultures, history and modernity… celebrated for its rich tapestry of art, vibrant music scene, and breath taking views from every angle. It’s a city that awakens all your senses.
We wandered for several hours on our first day… jet-lagged and uninspired…
… although we did make it to the Basilica Cistern. We descended below the streets of Sultanahmet into a majestic underground reservoir which dates back to the 6th century. Also called the Sunken Palace, it is the largest cistern from Istanbul’s Byzantine era still standing. Its symmetry and sheer grandeur of conception were quite breathtaking!
Afterwards, we settled in for lunch in an obvious tourist trap. As seasoned travellers we should have known better (but jet lag) and had an awful bland meal at an exorbitant price and then made the wise decision to head back to our hotel (via that ridiculously steep hill again) to rest.
Headed out again later with more of a spring in our step… had a delicious dinner virtually at the foot of the iconic Galata tower… and later wandered the crowded and vibrant cobbled streets and pretty narrow lanes before heading back for the night.
I woke early and wandered in the glow of the morning light to watch the sunrise over the Bosphorus before heading out again with the boys.
Our plan for the day was to investigate Balat, the centre of modern bohemia in Istanbul… and as I had seen lots of pictures on Pinterest, I was looking forward to this one. While the neighborhood was historically considered the Jewish Quarter, it’s actually a mosaic of Jewish, Christian, Orthodox, and Muslim communities that co-exist peacefully today.
After some confusion with transport options, we made it and I was immediately mesmerised. Steep slanted cobblestone streets were surrounded with vibrant facades, so many funky cafes, restaurants, and design shops.
This old district filled with beautiful colored wooden houses and cafes… instant feel-good vibes for a colour obsessed old hippy like me!
This techno-colored cafe drew a big crowd with its rainbow staircase and so many patterns, bits and bobs along the outside of the cafe, and yet somehow it is all effortlessly pulled together. My kind of place!
Walked up to the Kariye Mosque/Khora church. Originally built as the Church of the Holy Savior during the Byzantine era and converted to a mosque during the Ottoman rule of Istanbul, Khora Church is now a museum with gorgeous colourful, well-preserved frescoes and mosaics.
Back to Galata for another afternoon nap before once again wandering down the narrow cobbled streets cascading down to the vibrant and cool neighbourhood of Karakoy. The neighbourhood is OLD but ALIVE. Age-old Byzantine and Ottoman buildings are now home to trendy cafes, boutique shops, and art galleries, while others still house old-school bakeries, corner shops or apartments.
The street art and unpretentious vibes give Karaköy a distinct artistic and bohemian atmosphere. I loved the random whimsical umbrellas over our little cocktail bar…
… and our little Italian dinner spot with the incredible view of one of the many local mosques (complete with very loud call to prayer).
Eighteen kilometres walked today… and an early start tomorrow as we head off on the next (and perhaps most exciting) adventure…
Watch this space!
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Sweet dreams are made of this!
Travel… beautiful places… people I love- sweet dreams are made of this. It almost doesn’t matter where… I want to go to Norway. But I also want to trek in Patagonia. But I really want to go to Iceland… and then I wanna go to the Faroe Islands. And how could I forget trekking in the rice fields of Sapa… all while on the plane heading to somewhere else. The crazy mind of an obsessed traveller. Me. But this trip is different and it’s been a long time in the making.. from nine years ago when cancer (f**k cancer) reared its ugly head for the first time in our beautiful Johnny… through the surreal Covid years… til today. It’s been a constant reminder that this very moment is the only one you know you have for sure… that life is short and the world is wide.
So this trip is particularly special. I’m heading for Turkey with two of my very favourite people in the world… my brother Chris and his partner John. As brother and sister, Chrissy and I obviously share history… memories… deep things. But we also share a passion for photography… for savouring life intensely… and for the beauty of nature… whether that be the micro details of a flower or some weird fungi, the change of seasons, the sound of the ocean, watching the sunset, the smell of rain or starry nights. And Johnny… well Johnny has been a wonderful constant for so many years. He’s just love and warmth and wisdom all wrapped up in one human. They both are. Love in action. And we all share a love for travel.
A lot of people think they’re burnt out because you’re doing too much. I believe it’s because you’re doing too little of the things that make you feel alive. And travelling makes me feel alive. I feel very privileged to be able to share this time with them.
First stop- Singapore… the ultra-clean and ultra-green city where old-meets-new in the most bewildering yet ingenuis ways. Even looking out the window of our hotel room we had the obvious juxtaposition of the old terra cotta roofs with the skyscrapers that are perhaps thought more typical of Singapore these days.
But Singapore does the “new” in the most spectacular fashion, and that’s why I’m here. It’s been years since the last time, and the main reason I wanted to come was to see the futuristic and unique Gardens by the Bay, which did not exist when I was last here. It is amazing what can be created when people have vision and creativity (and I guess, funds)… and I stood in awe at the amazing structures that are super beautiful and now so iconic! Gardens by the bay- Ferngully meets Avatar… with its supertrees measuring 25 and 50m tall resembling a massive garden of the distant future.
Visited the amazing Cloud forest… a stunning climate controlled tropical wonderland enclosed in a massive greenhouse dome. I felt like I had left Earth and stepped into an Avatar world amidst the huge waterfall, lush vegetation, orchids, exotic rare plants, and misty air. It looks as if it was transported from the early ages of Earth… or from the future.. or maybe just from some drug induced creative dream.
Next was the Flower Dome… a cool conservatory full of stunning flowers from all around the world. Currently housing the Impressions of Monet exhibition… which, of course would always appeal to me, despite having seen it in Australia.
Then onto Floral Fantasy… a magical escape among suspended bouquets and creative floral arrangements… including a 4D Path of the Dragonfly experience. Loved it all!
With all the walking, I definitely needed sustenance and so raced to meet Chris and John at the luxurious and grand colonial hotel Raffles for high tea. Superb!
After over-filling our bellies with scrumptious delicacies, we taxied to Mandai Bird Paradise and immersed ourselves in a symphony of colour. Wow- the beauty of Gods creation constantly thrills me.
We then wandered down the road only a few minutes from our hotel to the Maxwell Food Centre where you can taste a Michelin star dish on a budget at Tian Tian Chicken Rice. Yum… although we were still rather full from our Raffles experience.
Our day was not finished yet, although my body was wishing it was (19.6kms today). Headed back to Marina Bay gardens for Garden Rhapsody, when the whole place comes alive with colour and lights and sound… and people!
Beyond magical!
This was immediately followed by Borealis… another outdoor art installation that combines layers of light and cloud particles to recreate the magical splendour of the Northern Lights, illuminating the night skies of Supertree Grove…
accompanied by an atmospheric soundtrack. I’ve always wanted to see the Northern Lights but for now, this will have to do.
So ready for bed but instead headed back to the airport to continue on our journey…
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And that’s a wrap… random musings of an obsessed traveller
I’ve said it before- there’s just something about Paris! Yes there is! The romance! The art! The food! The fashion! And there’s just something about France! It has that je ne sais quoi! And maybe, for me, there’s just something about everywhere. This wonderful, wide world is blessed with an unlimited number of perfect, picture-postcard views… and experiences… and moments to remember… and I think I have a gypsy heart that’s made to wander. I was born a nomad… with a hunger for the undiscovered… a need to see what’s beyond in the distance… a postal code unknown. It’s my inner being with a passport for beauty and adventure and meaning. Life is good on the road. There is a freedom there… an empowerment. This is where I belong. Travel enriches you beyond measure and I’m so aware that there’s no way I can see it all in my lifetime. And so I feel a sense of urgency to see as much of the richness and beauty of this world as I can… while I can… and before my strong and capable but human body lets me down more than it already is.
I’ve lived in 6 cities and now been to 52 countries (and pretty much loved them all except 2). I guess that’s a lot… but I have the hunger to visit so many more… even many of the ones that most people would never consider. They say ‘there is no 7 wonders of the world to a child… there is 7000 wonders’. Perhaps I’m like a child in that I see wonder wherever I go. The world is full of wonder and I think the real magic of wonder is not necessarily in the thing or place itself, but in the fact that the more you look for wonder in the world the more the wonder of the world becomes a part of you. I see it everyday- even at home and it’s nourishment for my soul.
We are the only animal on earth, as far as we know, that can be filled with joy at the sight of the blue sky or glistening sea… moved to tears by a sunset or stain glass window or walking amongst ancient trees and listening to the babbling brooks and cascading waterfalls. … that marvels at the stars at night… that feels awe, and humility, at the achievements of our past… the gifts and talents and art that surround us in our present… and what is possible in our future. Wonder defines us as human beings. Our souls are alive if we feed them well with all the astonishments that our world provides. Travel certainly does that for me.
And I see my privilege. I am fully aware that what I have done and will do in the future is a blessing and is not possible for everyone. And I am so grateful. But I do also believe those astonishments are available everywhere… for everyone… if we have the desire, motivation and eyes to see.
Anyway… enough of my random musings. The last six weeks we have travelled through 5 countries… 40 different cities or towns including around 15 Les Plus Beaux villages de France… 5187 kms by train… on 49 seperate trains (and lots of local metro trains in Paris)… plus a few buses and tours and about 100kms by car. We have walked approximately 430 kms and climbed 800 floors. There was a sense of achievement in all of that… sometimes even sheer delight (and relief) that we made it onto the right train after a unrealistically short transfer time… or giddy disbelief at making it from point A to point B in one piece after 14 hours of travel and five train changes… and, of course, the satiating pleasure of a good baguette or croissant… and glass of wine at the end, or sometime along the journey. It is some of these little moments that may not be movie-worthy but are sacred in their own way and certainly memorable along with the staggering beauty of our world.
A few things to note… or to remember from this trip:
Whatever you imagine, France is probably not what you imagine… or is more than you imagine. One of the most beautiful countries in the world, France has an insane amount of diversity… from the Alps to the Mediterranean… from crazy turquoise coastlines to storybook villages, many stunning cities… to medieval views that will set your heart aflutter…
There is always so much to learn from other cultures… part of what is so amazing about travel… and why I don’t tend to travel to places like the US. I love French culture’s seeming ability to value balance and rest with the work hustle. I don’t think we always do that well here- work is too important… busy too glorified. As opposed to our society, I think the French do not believe in maximalism… and that includes the glorification of the work-life “hustle.” And while we have a reputation as laid back Aussies, I think the reality is most often not really like that. We need to take a breath… enjoy that coffee… or chai (actually really looking forward to one of those… not something that seems popular in France)… notice the details of that lace balcony or that light filtering through the trees or whatever it is in life that brings you great joy.
I love the confidence and effortless style of the French… there’s no big lips or lash extensions here as they don’t seem to have the ridiculous and cruel pressure to stay eternally young or the expectation of perfection in their culture that we have here in Australia. They seem to appreciate the perfection in imperfection and focus more on style… and looking good and healthy (and sexy) at any age!
There are worse things than waiting in line for a fresh baked croissant or baguette! Obviously the French do food well… amazing bread and pastries, nougat, pate and foie gras, truffles, duck, crème brûlée… not to mention wine of course. Life revolves around it here! As it should. And there’s no rush!
Yes they do food well… but they don’t do toilets well (opposite of what I commented on after my trip to Japan earlier in the year). When in France, always make sure you carry tissues… and sanitiser.
Always put the plug in the bath if you want it to fill (Anne I’m speaking to you here 😂)
Don’t overpack! Really. And I’m definitely talking to myself here. When you pack- take half of it out and close your bag. It makes life so much easier. And you really don’t need so much stuff. No one cares if you wear the same thing in most of your photos. Next time, I’m travelling light (famous last words).
Life is short and the world is wide. Travel does something really beautiful to your soul that nothing else can. So if it’s possible… just go! The world awaits!
PS- as this is a pretty random blog, there was no specific pictures to go with it. So I thought I would just put in all my favourite streetlight obsession photos 🤷🏼♀️
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Paris is always a good idea!
Ah Paris. The city of light. The city of love. There’s just something about Paris! I know I always say I’m not a city girl and prefer to spend time in the smaller places but there’s just something about Paris! Audrey Hepburn Once said, “Paris is always a good idea”, and I’d have to agree. I love it here and could imagine living here for six months… with always something new to discover… some secret passageway… a cool art gallery… or a pretty cafe. it’s hard to articulate what it really is that makes it magical… it is beautiful, colourful and delicious… jam packed full of gorgeous sights, beautiful architecture and views that are too good to miss. It feels like you are surrounded by art and people who live by it… it’s such a strong presence in the city. There is an energy here… it’s indescribable… different to anywhere we have been so far this trip… teeming with life (and tourists). It is fast paced, historic yet modern, and incredibly charming with amazing food and wine. And the people have an effortless style… there’s doesn’t appear to be lash extensions or lip filler here! I love the trees that line the streets literally everywhere…
… and the thousands of apartment buildings with their lace balconies.
The city of light certainly has so much more to offer than the beautiful glow of the Eiffel Tower at night (although that is still pretty cool)… and we have six lovely days and nights here (minus a couple of day trips)… to soak in that magical… romantic… bohemian…artistic… historical… wonderful vibe! So many things to see and do. So many possibilities!
And while the Indian summer has continued with hot weather everyday since we arrived, the coming autumn months have already brought the beginning of the autumn colours that bring out the beauty of Paris and make everything look even more scenic and magical. We visited both Jardin du Luxembourg and Jardin des Tuileries and so enjoyed taking a leisurely walk while listening to the rustling of the wind in the trees and the dead leaves crackling under our feet.
Particularly loved Luxembourg gardens with its tree-lined promenades, ponds, fountains, a profusion of flowers in every season, an artificial grotto and a 17th-century palace…
Classical statues from Roman and Greek mythology are everywhere… nymphs, cherubs, satyrs, and one weird tangle of human forms showing Silenus, foster father of the god of wine, naked and drunk, being helped onto his donkey…. and of course, a dash of whimsy- a game of pétanque, a vintage carousel, a dozen tiny boats sailing across a duck pond- doesn’t hurt either.
We wandered several times along the Seine at different times of the day, just taking it in…
… admiring the architecture of the bridges…
… and the surrounding buildings …
… and even managed to (accidentally) see the Eiffel Tower at sunrise and aglow at night.
Visited many of the stunning churches although one of my biggest disappointments was arriving at Saint Chapelle at our booked time to find that the same strike that stopped us going to Mont Saint Michel meant it wasn’t opening at all that day. And tickets for the following day were sold out. I was prepared to be mesmerized and overwhelmed by the beauty before me and it was one of the things I had most looked forward to in our days in Paris as I love stained glass… and the dazzling Sainte-Chapelle’s upper level has over 1,000 exquisite stained-glass windows, which tell the story of the Bible. I was so sad… but sometimes, I guess, that’s travel. Things can be unpredictable. Just like life!
With its carved wooden stairs, stunning facade, and surrounding paved streets the Church of St-Etienne-du-Mont is a beauty inside and out. It’s also much quieter than other more famous churches in Paris but just as beautiful.
The gorgeous old Saint Severin in the Latin Quarter
And there’s the always beautiful heart of Paris- Notre Dame cathedral… still in the process of repairs after the fire.
We spent time leisurely wandering the streets of Paris… finding the bustling little markets and random pretty streets… lined with cafes and restaurants and some beautiful old houses…
… whether in the outlying arrondisements or in the historic heart of Paris.
One little block full of charm and whimsy, with the small houses painted in luscious pastel colors… along an original cobblestone street. One of the most colorful spots in Paris, Rue Cremieux is a beautiful cobblestone street nestled in a residential area.
Visited many of the cities squares like the Place Vendome… one of the city’s most famous and beautiful neoclassical squares and perhaps one of the most luxurious in the world currently housing some of the most famous high-end stores, such as, Dior, Chanel or Cartier… not so much my thing. My favourite square was the beautiful and very elegant Place des Vosges… a very fashionable and expensive square to live in during the 17th and 18th centuries (and I imagine still), and one of the main reasons for the chic nature of Le Marais among the Parisian nobility.
Loved the Marais district particularly and would stay there I think if I was ever back in Paris…filled with hip boutiques, galleries, and bars. Once the city’s Jewish quarter, the area still hosts numerous kosher restaurants. Wandered through the most amazing passageways and alleyways… so grand and dazzling with golden walls and a glass ceiling turn this gallery into a photogenic palace.
The covered passages came into existence in the mid-1800s and were so popular by 1850 there were 150 of them! Each covered shopping arcade is unique and some of them are even historical monuments, that have trendy restaurants, fashion, ornate mosaic floors, and art galleries.
Found a beautiful and romantic passageway lined with trees, where each little shop is painted a different colour. Under a blue sky, the place glows, and there are potted plants dotted around everywhere.
And so many cute cafes! Paris is actually artificial flower crazy and there are soooo many shops and cafes decorated in a pretty OTT way…. even McDonalds!
Some just look a bit cheap and tacky and some are really pretty. When in Japan in April I had thoroughly enjoyed a visit to the Haute Couture cafe which had obviously taken its inspiration from Paris.
It’s hard to believe one of Paris’ most serene, picturesque and dignified restaurants is also located within one of its busiest train stations…
… but The Train Bleu restaurant is a Paris icon. It’s visually phenomenal, and beautifully, authentically French. It was built for a World’s Fair in 1900, features murals depicting different regions of France, as well as works from more than 40 prominent artists from that time. Every inch of this place drips with Parisian opulence in the best possible way.
France is obviously famous for its pastries… the croissant is the most famous example but visit any pastry shop in Paris and you’ll find a wealth of delectable confections to swoon over… and while I was at least attempting to be somewhat restrained, the hope is that the thousands of steps we are doing each day go somewhere towards combatting the inevitable weight gain that go with this deliciousness. Almond croissants have really been my go to… but there’s been many more… including Odette’s famous light and airy cream puffs with creams of different flavours like pistachio, lemon or praline … the best in Paris! They are light and airy and filled with flavourful creams of different flavours for you to choose from.
Or Anne’s favourite- the chocolate eclair from the Stohrer pastry shop which has delighted Parisians since 1730.
Citron tarts… macaroons… and while we’re on sweets, it’s not pastry but my favourite dessert is creme brûlée which I have indulged in more times than can be counted on one hand!
We spent a day wandering Montmarte… old-world Paris… a former artists’ village once inhabited by Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh and Dalí… where cafes have now taken over the main square with a few artists scattered… mostly rather cheesy caricaturist-artists painting right before your eyes. Certainly a bit of a tourist trap in some ways but with its stunning city views and winding cobble stone streets filled deliciousness and magic crammed with over 200 cafes, restaurants, groceries, chocolatiers, fromageries, bars and boutiques it is still one of the most picturesque parts of the city.
Visited the extremely impressive pristine white domed Sacré-Cœur basilica which is one of the most iconic attractions in Paris and sits atop Montmartre Hill, the highest point in Paris, overlooking the city.
The interior is nothing special. But the panoramic city views from the dome are sublime… so of course I had to climb it… via hundreds of steps like these…
… up and down… as there is no lift. Gotta work off those cream puffs!
One of the best views of the Sacre Coeur is actually by the beautiful Carousel in the Square Louise Michel. It’s one of the best hidden gems in Paris and I love the pretty old world carousels…
… so we walked down the hundreds of steps before realizing there were still things to see at the top… and so had to walk all the way up again. As Montmartre is the highest point of Paris, we encountered plenty of staircases… in total, 38 surround the hill, just adding to the picturesque quality and charm of the neighborhood.
We slowly ambled our way up and wandered the pretty tree-lined streets… many the epitome of what a Parisian streets should look like… a lovely escape from the hustle and bustle of the city, featuring cobbled streets, little squares and quaint houses and buildings… like this stunning little art deco street with real old English vibes… vines crawling up coloured buildings, cobbled streets, beautiful classic doors, and classic lantern streetlamps… reputably among the most expensive properties in Paris.
The pretty cobbled Rue de l’Abreuvoir running from the iconic and insta-famous pink La Maison Rose which is apparently the most photographed house in a Paris 🤷🏼♀️, once frequented by artists and now a hipsterized vegan-friendly cafe in a nostalgic setting.
The little road is lined with ivy clad houses which mostly date back to the 1930s…
… and at one end lies the lovely small square Place Dalida, with gorgeous views up the street and to the Sacre Coeur…
… named for the famous late singer-songwriter whose final resting place is in Montmartre Cemetery. Dalida was an Egyptian born singer who gained fame in the 1950s Montmartre. But her life was troubled and she died of a drug overdose in 1987. Despite her tragic life, her sculpture is the stuff of legends. The story goes that, if you rub her breasts, you’ll be lucky in love. As you can see, many visitors give it a whirl 😂.
The city drips magic and romance from every corner of its streets to the highest steeples of its many churches. So much to see and so many beautiful places to explore… and never enough time!
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 