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May the Hoards not be with you
“Walk your own path and let go of the path others have chosen for you. Love more. Forgive more. Embrace more. Live more intensely”- Pope Francis.
Day 14
I feel really conflicted about today… definite highs and definite lows.
We left early- our earliest yet. The early morning sunlight over the countryside is spectacular and it has rained overnight and everything is fresh.
We are definitely rural today, although still close to the coast, and I love it. Very quickly we are out among the vineyards and market gardens with fruit laden lemon trees…
… and the wildflowers are blazing their glory along our paths.
The countryside is dotted with pretty farmhouses and there are at times, beautiful views of the Vigo estuary.
But as we walk, we can hear blasting in the background (not sure exactly what it is but we have heard it on several other days)… and it makes me think of people in war zones where that blasting would be the sound of bombs dropping. And I think of something I read the other day and it devastates me…
“A Lament for the Weight of Reckless Power.
When bombs drop it is not the powerful who run. It is not their children we see dust-covered, wandering streets with no names, searching for a home that no longer stands.”
I feel the weight of this… an ache of grief… the world feels a little untethered at the moment and while I have been trying to disconnect from all these things while we walk, it is virtually impossible with the current world environment. I am so aware of my privilege that allows me this time and opportunity when others live in war torn lands.
Anyway… enough of that… back on track… back to our Camino
When we began our journey two weeks ago, I was afraid of today. It was planned to be our biggest walk day- around 23km… and I really wasn’t sure if I would cope, considering my body’s issues. Within the first few days, I was even more doubtful after really struggling on much shorter distances. But I feel so much stronger now after 2 weeks of walking. I think of the book The Salt Path that I am reading at the moment and think of how Moth walked himself to health in some ways… and I feel like that is me… my body getting healthier and stronger day by day.
But our day begins almost immediately with steep hills… up and down… which continues on and off all day. And just to make them even more difficult than yesterday, some of them are gravel, with loose stones… so easy to take a tumble… so very taxing on the body. And Anne struggles with the hills and is also struggling generally with achy legs and really sore feet including blisters… which makes the big day ahead really challenging.
But it is so beautiful… the sun is shining and the birds are singing and we pass through such varied terrain. We walk across an ancient Roman bridge…
… along narrow lanes, dirt roads, stony paths, paved roads, ancient pathways, the leafy forest floor… and areas with boulders and tree roots to navigate…
… through farms and people’s backyards…
… and stunning forests where nature and stillness surround us (at times… more on that later).
The moment I step into the forest I feel my stress levels drop and all my senses are awakened… the light is soft and filtered through the trees and we inhale the scent of the forest… I don’t know what it is but it is wonderful.
There is birdsong and the sound of the gently flowing stream that accompanies us much of the afternoon.
And little waterfalls.
And flowers… always flowers… and I am forever inspired by the untamed beauty of wildflowers… growing wherever the winds of life take them.
There are more and more little shrines along the way…
… and pilgrims have turned the waymarkers into a place to leave your stones. It is a Camino tradition that pilgrims pick up a pebble at home (or somewhere along the way), which they take with them on the Camino. The pebble symbolizes the pilgrim’s burdens, sorrows, fears, wishes, even a loved one, and somewhere during the Camino, they put down the pebble, and with it, all that it symbolizes. I love this idea and we have laid down several already.
So… what’s not to love, you ask? Why am I conflicted about such a wonderful day?
The hoards have made me seriously stressed. Our journey has been so peaceful most of the time up to this stage. But this morning there are SO many people on the trail- perhaps leaving early was not wise, although it’s because we have a big day ahead that it seemed a good idea. I knew this section became busy but I didn’t realise how busy or how it would destroy my feeling of peace. At times, there are people right behind me and I feel pushed to go faster and when the terrain is difficult it would be easy to fall. And there are people in front of us that restrict movement and slow us down. You can’t just go at your own pace anymore… and I find it all incredibly stressful.
And Anne and I have often walked in silence… lost in contemplation of life and the beauty of the planet and appreciation for where we are. But the crowds are noisy, constantly chattering and laughing… and I know that is their right… and they’re having a great time (and that is good), but I wonder what their motivations for being here on a pilgrimage are. Not that it matters… but it kind of does. And I feel like a cranky old person when we stop in to visit a beautiful simple little chapel and the people standing at the door are making so much noise… and it feels like they are somehow trampling on holy ground… with no respect. And all day this “noise” has messed with my head. I’m not sure if that makes sense but it was very real for me.
We come across a big school group of teenagers doing the Camino as an excursion- 5 days… 100 km… 150 kids. We spend some time walking and talking with a couple of the teachers- my heroes of the day. What an amazing memory as a school camp… I think it’s fantastic… for them. Perhaps not so much for others on the trail. So many people. Too many people.
Thankfully we stop for lunch at a kind of pub/cafe… well off the track and eat a HUGE sandwich…
… and we seem to lose the crowd… they have moved ahead of us and left peace and quiet once again in their wake. I am so relieved… and we breathe in the stillness. The forest is so alive.
Nothing clears the mind like being close to nature… always a source of delight for me. The afternoon is wonderful and mostly peaceful, but physically challenging.
We finally arrive in Pontevedra old town at our apartment for the next two nights… as we have a perfectly timed rest day tomorrow.
The city is gorgeous… the interlocking lanes and plazas of the compact Old Town are closed to cars and are abuzz with shops, boutiques markets, cafes and tapas bars and beautiful churches, chapels and convents.
The squares are full of locals and pilgrims… chatting and eating and kids playing with the pigeons … it’s a really cool vibe.
After a shower and rest we head out for a little exploration, wine and a wonderful dinner at a Michelin suggested restaurant just around the corner. The most delicious octopus I’ve ever eaten… pretty sure we will return tomorrow night.
Day 15
We have a good lie-in today as it is a well earned rest day. So amazing to not have to rush around and knowing today we don’t have to walk. Once again we were hoping to have a massage somewhere (third time lucky) but it seems it’s not destined to happen- everywhere is booked out. Anne finds a cute Frida inspired cafe where we have brunch.
Our apartment actually has a washing machine, which we were thrilled about. And before we left last night, we started a wash. When we returned home, it was still running, and was making a lot of noise. After about four hours, we realized that it would keep running forever if we didn’t turn it off. We couldn’t drain or spin the washing machine, and it still looked dirty. So, we took everything out one by one, wringing it as much as we could, and put them in a bag to take to a laundromat to start over. Trying to figure out what was what while everything was in Spanish was a bit tricky. We didn’t realize until a local told us after our items were washed and in the dryer that these were the machines reserved for pet laundry. In hindsight the little pictures of dog bones and fish skeletons could have been a giveaway but not to our tired non- Spanish speaking minds.
With chores done, Anne decides to stay home for the rest of the day to rest her sore feet. I will do a little more exploration.
I wander the streets and try to visit some of the churches and convents…
Convento de Santa Clara 
Convento de San Francisco- started by St Francis of Assisi when he passed through Pontevedra while on the Camino … but nothing is open, except the sanctuary of the Virgin de la Peregrina (the virgin of the pilgrims) which is the centrepiece of this section of the city.
The Church of Peregrina is a very distinctive rounded church, located on the Praza da Ferrería in the centre of town. Built in the 18th century, it is Portuguese looking in its style. The church is dedicated to the Pilgrim Virgin who is said to watch over those walking the Camino Portuguése. I climb of course to see the dome up closer.
And then it’s back to the square for Anne to see the church… to have a drink and to revisit the wonderful restaurant from last night before and early night. The sky is looking a little ominous and hopefully doesn’t bring rain while we walk tomorrow.
Rest day over, we set off again tomorrow but have several short days coming up as we head out on a new path.
Steps today (day 14)- 36,527
Kilometres today- 25.03
Flights climbed- 35
Temperature- 24°
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Everything is a miracle
“There are two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. And one is that everything is a miracle.”- Einstein
Day 13
We leave the earliest we have since we started our Camino. The weather is still cool, but the sky is clear and brilliantly blue, it will definitely be warm today… heading for a top of 30° and that is hot to walk in… so the more we can get done in the cooler hours the better. We move at a good pace, like good old pilgrims… although Anne tells me later that she had to run to keep up with my longer legs. Half the time I feel like I’m running to keep up with hers… even though they’re little.
It seems incredible that we are, in theory, now within the last 100 km. Santiago de Compostela is within easy reach, although we will be taking the Spiritual Variant which will add extra kilometres on. I feel now that the wandering has become really enjoyable… we are strong… fearless… we feel that we could be on the road for weeks. At least we feel like that when we set off… not always when we finish at the end of the day. But we are definitely stronger now than when we started.
We pass Bouzas where we were going to have dinner last night, but didn’t. It was once a village in its own right, but is now a neighbourhood absorbed into Vigo.
We then start passing through a busy industrial port area… brutal in terms of traffic, noise and local industry ugliness… and views of this port continue much of the morning. It is huge!
So different to the quiet beautiful beach areas we have spent our last few days wandering through. There were some very large good pieces of street art along the way though…
Vigo, the largest city in Galicia, has a rich and varied history. Its roots trace back to ancient times, with early settlements by the Celts and later development as a Roman port. Today, Vigo has grown into one of Europe’s largest and most important ports, particularly renowned for its fishing industry.
We arrive at Vigo’s Old Town… so we are now where we thought we’d be yesterday… and we’ve already walked 6km. We wander briefly through the cobbled streets where we find the Basílica de Santa María…
… and the Plaza de la Constitución, lined with historic buildings and lively cafés… and sit down to have some breakfast before setting off again.
There seems to be hoards of pilgrims in this city this morning… many just beginning the hundred kilometres necessary to get their Compostela certificate. I dread the trail being crowded with people.
We are headed to Redondela today where all routes on the Portuguese Camino merge. I have read about an alternative route (actually a cycle path) that avoids much of the busy city area… is green and traffic free… with far fewer people and great views of the spectacular Vigo Bay. So we ignore the “Camino police” who are sticklers for the “rules” and take this route, including the Halo Ascensor which saves us from some of the notorious Vigo hills.
But not all of them. When we leave this path to join the main route we are immediately confronted with a hill. And we climb. And climb… and climb some more. A never ending and very steep hill… and at times we feel we are almost horizontal to the ground and could put our hands down and crawl.
Anne struggles with the hills but does really well today. There was nowhere to stop and no facilities so we literally just sat on the side of the road on very uncomfortable bumpy concrete, and catch our breath and drink some water. A little further up this hill we find a seat and sit for quite a while- this is our 10km stop which is usually an important one for me if my body is going to have a good day. Because we’d climber so high, the panoramic view of Vigo and the Cies Islands is amazing.
One of the negatives of being the self proclaimed official photographer of our travels is that I rarely get my walking rhythm. I constantly stop to take pictures and then sort of half run/waddle to catch up with Anne and then I do it all again. Constantly. The walking rhythm is important when doing a long trek and I rarely get there. But I love taking the photos so it’s just the way it is 🤷🏼♀️
There was a fair bit of road walking (or should I say climbing) for the first part of the day but the path did eventually head into a wooded area where we soon passed a small waterfall. I find it so beautiful… the sound of the water… the ferns and moss covered trees and rocks. The beauty of Gods creation!
My husband had at times said to me that he couldn’t understand what all the fuss was about waterfalls. “It’s just water falling over rocks”. But Einstein apparently once said, “There are two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. And one is that everything is a miracle.” I prefer the everything choice… and even a little waterfall is a miracle that makes my heart happy. I climb some stairs through the forest to have a better look before continuing on our way. Pity about the toilet paper once again… it’s really disgusting.
Much of the way to Redondela we were in and out of lovely woodlands with beautiful dappled light and shade that kept the heat at bay, combined with a gentle breeze.
Though for most of the day we had the stunning views over Vigo Bay, it almost felt like we were back on the central route, away from the sea.
There were even vineyards and cornfield which we hadn’t seen since heading to the coast… but still no churches or shrines… or not until near the end of the day.
We eventually come across a lovely pilgrim cafe set high off the road with a stunning view of the bay… and we enjoy some kind of meat pie and a wine Spritz (Anne has a beer) for lunch. Here we have our 15km break ( we aim to have a break every 5km) and enjoy conversation with Aisha… our hero from a few days ago who is carrying her 16kg child on her back while she does the Camino. She travels with her parents who carry the packs. Amazing.
Not far down the track we meet a wonderful family of 4 doing the trek with not only a baby on the back but one in a pram as well. And that had to win our heroes of the day. Amazing Sam and Eddie with 2 year old Issy and 1 year old Olivia.
As they say, what goes up must come down so, not surprisingly, there was a steep descent into Redondela where my stick comes in very handy. It was then a pretty easy walk into town and our apartment for the night. We pass an old church with a beautiful old cemetary…
… a couple of little shrines which we hadn’t seen for a while.
And a couple of water sources… with wonderful quality water.
We continue into town and find our apartment. It is nearly 5pm… the latest arrival time so far… and it was our earliest departure. A big day and sadly, with the heat, my hikers rash has flared again. And there’s another big day tomorrow.
We explore the town a little although it is pretty unimpressive…
… and eventually bump into the Canadian brother and sister we met yesterday on the trail… and end up joining them for a couple of drinks. And dinner. Before heading home for the night.
Steps today- 36,285
Kilometres today- 23.5km
Flights climbed- 40 floors
Temperature- 30°
How pretty are these trees with both pink and purple blossoms. 
Some of the wildflowers today -
White sand and clear blue water
“All truly great thoughts are conceived while walking”- Nietzsche.
Day 12
We left our cheap hotel to the sounds of our neighbours in the throes of passion… something neither of us is familiar with for quite a long time. We did laugh 😂
Without my notes and calendar I don’t think I’d know where I was or what day it is. By now the Camino has eradicated all sense of time and space… but we hear church bells and realise it is Sunday. It’s really hard to believe it is a week since our wonderful Sunday on the central route… one of my favourite days so far.
Anne stops to get a coffee and we are given some inedible stale unsugared churros and, that is breakfast!
We are on the Litoral route again and hug the coastline, offering really glorious white sandy beaches all day…
There are lots of bathrooms (Anne’s doing a happy dance) and the area is dotted with cafes… some of them open… although we pass several closed beach clubs and empty beaches. It is Sunday so it is quieter than usual. The terrain is mostly flat with some VERY steep sections just to keep us on our toes.
We constantly drop into a new beach… mostly extremely quiet with lovely soft white sand and clear turquoise water. There are no waves… it is calm and serene… just the way I like it. The weather is once again, perfect and each little beach offers something different… and beautiful. I love this morning… feeling refreshed, renewed, and awakened by the presence of the ocean.
There are some sections that for the first time, actually lead us down onto the sand and it is amazing.
At one of these… Praia do Portiño, I can’t resist and pull off my shoes and socks and paddle in the cold clear Atlantic waters.
I could stay here all day… with only a few bobbing boats for company; although there is a small closed restaurant on one side, but otherwise, no services at all. But there is a Camino arrow! Few and far between lately.
Sadly now is not the time to stay at this stunning little beach… so we continue up stairs and steeply uphill into residential streets, climbing over another headland but this time we had glorious views of the Cíes Islands.
There has been a big increase in the number of pilgrims today as we are a little over 100km out from Santiago and many commence their walk around this time, needing to walk 100 km to get the Compostela certification of their pilgrimage. We meet and chat to John from New York who walked 50km on his first day- on a deadline to get to Santiago for a wedding and has his wedding outfit in his little pack. And a Canadian brother and sister on a much tighter timeline than us. We walk for a while with a Spanish woman from Seville who has joined a tour group of 40 people just starting today. That is a huge group so they obviously can’t all walk together and she is along for now.
The hydrangeas that have lined our paths right from the beginning are with us again today and make me anticipate our upcoming Azores escape… not so far away now. Which is kind of scary because it means the end is near.
More and more beaches… all beautiful with white sands and clear blue calm waters… one just melds into the next.
As we get closer to Vigo, you can just feel the city… the change in pace… more traffic… more people… big car parks and the beaches are getting busier.
I much prefer the quieter paths but the Camino is what it is and you just follow where it leads and take what it gives.
I decide to put our accommodation into google maps early to avoid backtracking and we realise it is actually a long way before we get to Vigo city. This is great for today but means we will be adding more than 5 km onto our already big day tomorrow… and it is expected to be 30°. It will be a tough day!
But for now we arrive in perhaps our most extravagant accomodation of our whole trip- chosen as it is a spa resort and we thought that at this stage we may well be in need of a good massage. But of course we are out of luck (as we were in the only other place we stayed that offered massage but was fully booked). It is Sunday and the spa is closed until tomorrow. Including the hot spa pool. 😩
It is beautiful though… a historical manor house with a stunning garden, pool and private beach… one of those places with a marble bathroom, huge fluffy white monogrammed towels and bathrobes… and we each have a big very comfortable bed with lovely pillows. Certainly different from our cheap hotel last night and we soak it up.
Once again when we arrive, our bags have not been delivered. While it’s annoying, it’s kind of enforced rest as there is not too much we can do before showering and changing. Eventually we head down to the pool in our Camilla’s, find a big day bed and enjoy some lovely cold Alberino wine.
We had planned to go into Bouzas, a charming area not far away with a strong maritime history, known for its seaside atmosphere and fantastic traditional seafood. But we are tired and unmotivated and have two of the biggest days of our trek coming up, so we decide to not leave the resort and instead, eat amazing Italian food in the resort restaurant and we’re home in bed by 9.30. Hoping to start a bit earlier than usual to beat the heat.
Steps today- 27,948
Kilometres today- 18.3
Flights climbed- 25
Temperature- 24°
Some of the wildflowers today. -
We’ve lost that Camino feeling…
Day 11
Shorter day. Shorter walk. Shorter blog today! Praise the Lord! And everyone said- Amen!
Starting from Baiona, walking the coastal route feels like walking through coastal communities that roll into each other, joined by sandy bays, headlands, and lovely beaches. No particular towns… just beach suburbs.
We follow the arrows, although they were very few today…
… across the river Miñor on the Ponte Románica da Ramallosa… and it’s a very easy flat walk. The medieval bridge, built in the 13th century, is believed to have replaced an older Roman one. Its ten arches connect Nigrán to Baiona… and I love old bridges.
And the Ramallosa natural area wetlands… known for its confluence of ecosystems where a river meets the sea, were lovely and a little different to the environments we had been passing through.
As we left Ramallosa, and walked along a path that headed over a headland. This was not the official route but because we had such a short walking day today we thought it might be nice. And it absolutely was… between beautiful old homes, that while perhaps not ‘lifestyles of the rich and famous’ were definitely owned by wealthy Spaniards…
… with amazing views and lots of security. The water was clear and blue and we could see across the bay to Baiona and its castle and harbour where we stayed last night.
After dropping down from the headland we arrived at a lovely long white sandy beach- Playa América, nearly two kilometres of soft white sand and calm waters and one of the most popular beaches in the area… and there are many. It is a beautiful day and there are many people enjoying the sunshine.
We decide for now to not stay but head to our accomodation as we have an early check in for the first time. It is a fair way from the beach, which is disappointing (who chose this place? 😂) but we figure we can shower and change and come back down. However, for the first time, our luggage does not arrive before us… in fact we are waiting for hours… which of course means we cannot shower and change. So we go down to the restaurant attached to the hotel and eat more bread, cheese and wine while we wait for our luggage.
We have booked a luggage service which transfers our main packs from accomodation to accomodation each day, allowing us to walk without carrying our luggage. This makes for an easier and more enjoyable experience, as we only have to carry a day pack. It’s been an amazing and reliable service and our bags have always been waiting when we arrived… but this was our shortest walking day and it didn’t quite work out the way we thought.
So, way later than we originally planned we head down to the beach for a lovely walk in the sand along the waters edge- my first earthing in ages. I love the feel of my bare feet in the sand and even the icy water of the Atlantic… much colder than the Pacific.
And then we go in search of a little restaurant I had noticed earlier as we first arrived here. An amazing meal and wine later and we start our walk back home. The beach is beautiful and the sun is starting to set and I would love to stay and watch it but it won’t be until 10.15 and that is just too late for these old Camino grannies.
Today there has been little indication that we are even on the Camino… there are few way markers, few pilgrims, few churches or shrines and today really just felt kind of like our regular walks at home… or maybe on holidays. Hopefully tomorrow will have more of that Camino feeling that is so hard to describe.
Wildflowers of the day Steps today- 24,782
Kilometres today-16.8
Flights climbed- 3
Temperature- 21°
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Camino Legs
Day 10
We set off this morning for the first time without any real breakfast. It was not included with our accomodation and there is nowhere in this village open at this time.
It is another perfect morning for walking… a cool 17° but the sun is out which makes me very happy as the water always looks so much more beautiful when the sun is out. It’s a wonderful quiet trail much like when we started yesterday. The path is easy and well-marked…
… and we walk between dry stone walls, passing cows and horses, and fields awash with wildflowers.
Several times today we end up back on the yellow brick road…
… and we have glorious sweeping views of the coast and the headland!
The arrows lead us onto quieter residential streets and greener trails. Along the way, we pass a cool art installation of painted rocks and pebbles.
From a distance we see a windmill and of course I take lots of pictures of it sitting above the stunning coastline.
When we finally get to it, we are very relieved to find it is part of a campsite including an open cafe… with food, drinks and bathrooms… perhaps the only one we will find all day. For a route dotted with small coastal communities, services are sparse. It is nearly lunchtime and we enjoy fresh squeezed orange juice and a bread roll. And it is always a thrill (particularly for Anne) to have access to a real bathroom.
My app shows there is two options for the next couple of kilometres and we decide to follow the coastal one. We find a lovely peaceful place to sit staring out at the blue horizon and feeling the peace and refreshing the ocean brings. There are hundreds of rocks and boulders smoothed over time by the power of nature and we have great appreciation for the ocean’s vastness, power, and beauty.
The only negative here is that the little path to get here is lined in toilet paper… which is a common issue on the trail as there are very few facilities. I carry a little plastic bag for paper any time I need a bush wee… and I wish everyone else did too😂🤷🏼♀️
Eventually we continue on one of my favourite paths of the whole trail so far. Walking along with the ocean on our left there are wildflowers lining both sides of the trail… sometimes quite high. It is totally enchanting and I am completely delighted… and of course no photos could ever do it justice.
Wildflowers from today We arrive back at the road and find we need to climb a mountain… or at least it feels like it. It’s actually our introduction to the Gallacian hills and the arrows guided us up and over the headland along a rocky trail with incredible sweeping views of the coast.
A beautiful garden just before we started climbing. 
The path begins with a soft trail underfoot, but it quickly turned rocky as we climbed higher. We just took it slowly, taking a moment to soak up the views and realise how far we had come. This really was a glorious little path but it is steep and challenging. In some areas it really reminded us of the Australian bush with lots of gum trees and eucalyptus.
A trekking pole assisted Toyota jump in triumph as we made it to the top 😂 On the way down, we meet and chat with a lovely breast cancer survivor from Florida who is actually running her Camiño. I think that gets my hero of the day.
We make our way back down past some dry stone walls, and into a village. Keeping an eye on the yellow arrows as we end up on the yellow brick road again and on another big hill. It’s a long climb and left us puffing a little, but we did really well and from the top, we had a great view of Baiona, where we are staying tonight. And from here it was all downhill.
One of the main reasons I had chosen this route coming back to the coastal area was because I had heard about a sea-glass beach between Oia and Baiona and was really looking forward to seeing it. This area of coast used to be a landfill site but over the years pieces of broken glass bottles have been smoothed and rounded by the sea. The tide has pushed these colourful crystals onto land and created a green hue to this tiny, gravelly beach. But I only realised when it was too late, that to do that, we would have had to go off the Camino trail where we headed up the mountain… and instead continued on a cycling path at sea level which would have taken us past a lighthouse and to the beach. But our mountain trail completely cut across the headland and didn’t surface again until we arrived in Baiona… which was about 4km too late. And in a 20+km day- going back another 4km and then back again was not an option. 😩
But I have realised that happiness is not about reaching a particular destination but finding a way to embrace the moments that make up every day. If I judge an experience only in relation to whether I get the outcome I want, I completely miss the opportunities for joy in front of me. And so I missed something I really wanted to see but also experienced a wonderful and beautiful challenge that was perhaps more valuable in the end.
”The last 4 kilometres of any day always seem the longest, and the walk into Baiona was no exception. We meandered down the big hill that we’d just climbed, making our way back to sea level, walking through residential streets. When we reached the bottom, I looked for details of our accomodation and put it into Maps… and yes, you guessed it… it was back up that hill… as if we hadn’t climbed enough hills today.
After a bit of a rest and a shower we head out to do a little exploration of the town. It is a medieval port town and is much bigger than our tiny village we loved so much last night.
We visit the Capela de Santa Liberata and the Colexiata de Santa María de Baiona…
… leading us into the narrow streets of the medieval quarter filled with well-preserved small buildings, cobbled streets and Galician-style terraced houses.
The area is filled with restaurants, bars, and shops. Being a port city, many restaurants serve a menu focused on the local seafood… which we did eat later for dinner.
We stroll around the old town and then find ourselves at the main harbour and wander the waterfront…
… with lovely views of Baiona’s most prominent building… the 12th century Monterreal Castle which dominates the promontory perched dramatically overlooking the sea.
Its impregnable defensive walls once repelled the attack of the English, who disembarked here in 1585… and still stands, though there’s not much old left inside it now.
Within the precinct today is the luxurious, medieval-castle-style Parador hotel Baiona. We walked around this impressive place and I climbed the ramparts for excellent views of Baiona and the surrounding coastline from its elevated position.
They say it takes a while to get your “camino legs” and sadly that doesn’t mean slim, shapely ones. It refers to the physical adaptation and resilience of your legs after walking long distances on the trail. It encompasses the physical changes, like muscle strengthening and increased stamina… and I am very proud of us both today… by far our longest walking day… and I still had the desire and energy to climb the ramparts… very different from some of the earlier days when I barely had the energy to shower and dress after the days walk. That’s progress.
Dinner and the long walk back up the hill to our home for the night… and bed. But always blogging first.
Steps today- 38,374
Kilometres today- 26.27
Flights climbed- 33
Temperature- 21°
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Hola España
“It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you, but no one can walk it for you.” – Rumi
Day 8 and 9
I feel a little sad to leave the central route with its beautiful villages, rural pathways, vineyards and cornfields… and am wondering if we made the right choice. We hop in an uber to start our day as we are switching back to the Litoral/coastal route that was always our plan. The car is very comfortable and the driver is lovely and very chatty the whole way. He tells us he much prefers the central route which again makes me doubt my choices.
Although we also know now that had we continued on the central route, our next stage would have been the most difficult stage of the whole route with a lot of climbing and in 30°+ temperatures… which Anne would really struggle with. Our struggles are very different. Anne struggles with the hills and heat. Those are not such an issue for me except that the heat exacerbates my hikers rash and swelling. I struggle with downhills and the length of our walks each day. The reduction in temperature will definitely make it easier all around. And it is what it is, and we have to believe that we have been guided to choose the route we have and that the Camino will provide the experience, lessons and blessings that we need.
We arrive in Caminha where we will catch the boat over the river to Spain. The main ferry apparently got stuck on a sandbar two years ago and is still there. So now everyone uses what they call water taxis and once there is enough people they leave… and go back and forth all day. It is a small dinghy boat and we drag our big bags over the sand and climb in.
Someone even has a bike with them. We are all handed big dirty life jackets as we push off towards Spain… crossing the Mediterranean in a small leaky boat. Not really😂… but Anne does comment that it feels like we are boat people sneaking our way across rough treacherous seas… towards a new life. Actually it is a 10 minute boat ride across the Mino river … but it is blustery and a little rough and we can’t stop laughing and end up with everyone else laughing too.
We make it to the other side… alive… and with our luggage wet but in one piece and we drag ourselves off the boat.
My life on a pastel de nata diet has come to an end. Hola España- we are now in Spain.
I google our accomodation and it is 3km away uphill. No problem… we will call an Uber. But… no cars available! I now believe it does not operate in the area we are in. Oh well… we follow our Camino arrows up… up… up and eventually make our way to our accomodation for the night which is situated in a beautiful old convent… the Hotel Monumento Convento de San Benito in the small city of AGarda. We are pretty impressed with ourselves that we managed the walk with barely a heavy breath despite dragging our 15kg+ packs and our daypacks.
Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and presided by the Miño river and the Monte de Santa Tecla hill fort, the town of A Guarda is famous for its lobsters. They even have a lobster festival next month. Hopefully we may get to try some later. For now we head off looking for a sandwich or something and end up with a kebab and a wine from the restaurant next door.
It is later than expected as we have moved an hour forward crossing into Spain and the sunset is now not until 10.15 so sadly, as that is well past Anne’s pumpkin time, it is very unlikely we will see another one.
We spend some time exploring the charming town with a rich history and strong fishing heritage, which is evident in its gorgeous little harbour and seafood restaurants that line it. I love it immediately with it colourful buildings…
… and little beach with clear turquoise water.
Had it been a couple of days earlier there is nothing I would have wanted more than to jump in but the temperature has dropped by more than 10° since we moved back to the coast and there is a strong and very chilly breeze. Not swimming weather for me no matter how tempting it looks.
We have an afternoon rest and we both sleep… not good for me as it almost ensures that I will not sleep well tonight… and eventually head out to the piano bar that is part of our convent accomodation. There is no piano music tonight but there is wine and we have a lovely conversation with Jill from Melbourne before heading off to one of the many restaurants along the harbour for some delicious and huge prawns for dinner.
After little sleep for me, we set off on a cool and misty morning. The low cloud that was with us all day yesterday has descended even further so you can barely see the hills behind the town.
But we are blessed that the high winds of yesterday have died down and the conditions are perfect for walking.
Our route follows the coastline to Oia which is about 15km away. If I told you that today you could walk along a wild and rocky coastline, paddle in shallow waters in a few sandy beaches, eat a fabulous seafood lunch overlooking the Atlantic if that took your fancy, and wander around a long since abandoned medieval monastery, would you want to rush? Well we didn’t want to either! Which is why I cant understand why so many people choose to walk double our kilometres on this stage and continue all the way to Baiona… which is our destination tomorrow.
This is our first full day walking in Spain, through the Celtic lands of legends and ancient peoples. It’s not a day to be rushed. And I just love the first stages of our walk today with its tiny little beaches. Most people I know love the long sandy beaches so common back home… but I have always found the tiny ones (like Froggys on the Gold coast) to be so much more picturesque.
Although I do just love the beach… any time… any size… despite that I am not much of a swimmer. I am drawn to it… the wind, the salt, the seagulls… and am overtaken by the sensations of peace and happiness. I feel at one with the world and at peace with myself and all that is happening in my life—chaos included… at least for now. It’s like a natural antidepressant.
Marine biologist Wallace J. Nichols believes that we all have a “blue mind… that is a mildly meditative state characterized by calm, peacefulness, unity, and a sense of general happiness and satisfaction with life in the moment.” According to Wallace, this is triggered when we’re in or near water. “We are beginning to learn that our brains are hardwired to react positively to water and that being near it can calm and connect us, increase innovation and insight, and even heal what’s broken.” Makes total sense to me… but back to the trail.
The trail itself is straightforward, and it feels like you’re miles from anywhere… hugging the coast with stunning views for much of the way. There is a few sections of road walking, I called the yellow brick road… though it’s not brick it definitely is yellow. It’s safe and easy to navigate compared to some of the roads that we have journeyed on.
It is a beautiful stage with a little more elevation than we expected as the path at one stage was closed due to apparently being blocked with water and mud… thus sending us up the hill to bypass this area. But this did give us plenty of opportunities to soak up the scenery.
Much of the time, the only sounds were the crunch of our footsteps on the gravelly path, the chirping of the birds and the calm ocean as a background to it all.
There was a little café about halfway with stunning views of the sea, where many pilgrims stop… but we weren’t in need of sustenance at that stage although we did take advantage of the bathrooms.
I was advised to always use them when available as you never know when the next opportunity will come. I have only had to do a bush wee once but have had to be lookout for Anne on many occasions.
Anne had our first fall today. It seemed like slow motion watching her as she hit the ground and I felt like an angel had caught her and put her softly down. She didn’t fall hard and was completely fine… but we do have to constantly watch the ground… so many different and changing surfaces… dirt, gravel with loose stones, rocks, tree roots… all sorts of things that can trip you up.
Can’t imagine doing it in crocs but we did see a girl walking in them today. We also saw one with a toddler on her back… our hero for the day.
Nearing the end of the days walk, we turn off from the yellow brick road and head steeply downhill on a quiet meandering path that led us to the Ermita de San Sebastián. This tiny old chapel, overlooking the sea, is dedicated to San Sebastián.
It was a lovely simple little chapel where you could leave prayer requests with the promise that they would be prayed for. You can also light a candle there if you want to and there is a stamp for our credential.
Not sure if I have explained this but we picked up our Camino “passport” or credential at the Porto Cathedral. The pilgrim’s official credential is a sort of passport which must be stamped on each stage of the route. Its origins date back to the Middle Ages and the document which was given to pilgrims for use as a safe-conduct. There is a space at the top for the seal of the place that issues the Credencial – for us the Porto Cathedral… at the bottom of the same page, the date and the Cathedral’s stamp will be placed after completing the pilgrimage… in Santiago de Compostela. It must be stamped at least two times a day during your journey as proof of the pilgrimage, allowing the pilgrim to request the Compostela certificate upon completion. These stamps can usually be found at your accomodations, some cafes and restaurants, churches and random places… like one day walking in the central route I noticed a sign that said, “stamp behind the tree” and there we found a little shelf with the stamp as well as pilgrim memorabilia.
Just 600 meters further from the little chapel we entered the glorious little village of Oia, dominated by the Monastery of Santa María de Oia, a 12th-century Cistercian monastery perched beside the sea. The town is tiny but so gorgeous… the old town a maze of cobbled streets to explore filled with beautiful stone buildings all overlooking the dramatic rugged coastline below.
The majority of pilgrims and tourists walk straight through this place, not even stopping to enjoy a coffee or drink. As far I am concerned, what a mistake they are making… the Camino is not a race… and so much beauty is missed by treating it like one.
A particular restaurant had been recommended and we stopped by to book for dinner… but liked it so much we decided to have some cheese and wine there for lunch as well… with unspoiled views of the small bay, parts of the town and the monastery.
Afterwards we continue on to the historic Santa maria de Oia Monastery located right on the coast and currently being restored… which means you can’t actually see it inside but it is still so beautiful overlooking the bay.
Our accomodation at Casa Arrabal is stunning- a 2 bedroom stone country house with all the modern cons… but right on the street and we can hear every words of the passers by. Hopefully it’s an early-to-bed town.
We head back to our lunchtime restaurant for dinner, when in walks Jill who we met last night and joins us for dinner. We end up inviting another woman sitting alone to join us- Veda and we have a long and lovely meal together…
… staying long past pumpkin time and watching as the day bleeds into night fall.
There are lots of things about the Camino that are a little difficult to explain… the emotions involved is one of them. You can walk a day and feel like it was really lovely (or not) and you can walk a day with tears constantly in your eyes without any real explanation. Today was one of those days. I felt so totally blessed. And grateful.
Steps today- 24,429
Kilometres today- 16.80
Floors climbed- 7
Temperature- 20°
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The Camino always provides
“Walking is a man’s best medicine”- Hippocrates (ancient Greek physician)
Day 6 and 7
And today I needed medicine. Yesterday afternoon I started with tummy cramps and the resulting many visits to the bathroom overnight does not bode well for a long walk… but we head off as usual… a little earlier actually as today is going to be hot.
We say good bye to our beautiful friends Constance and Matthew… though we have bumped into them so many times, this may be the last time as we are having a rest day once we reach Ponte de Lima whereas they will continue on their journey. It has been so lovely connecting with this couple over the last few days.
We pass a tiny church and then, leaving Balugães behind, walk through vineyards and lush green countryside.
Our destination today is Ponte de Lima… an ancient little town along the Lima river. It is a beautiful day on the Camino… peaceful and quiet… passing vineyards, orchards, pretty homes with beautiful gardens that are a riot of spring flowers…
… with the last of the springtime wisteria still blooming. The sun is shining and the birds are singing. Walking along a mixture of dirt tracks, cobbled paths and, occasionally, some paved roads, we really enjoy the morning although there is a little more climbing than in previous days and the sun is hot. I am using the walking sticks as it was a challenging route for much of the day.
We miss an arrow but very quickly realise when we come to a T with no arrow and I check my app which shows it was only a few metres back. Constantly looking for arrows to keep us in track.
More cornfields… always more cornfields… and grapevines. At one stage we pass a literal wall of jasmine that just keeps going and the beautiful fragrance lingers.
I notice monuments to those walking the Camino- from tile depictions to scallop shells hanging from a post above the roadway as a form of greeting to those who pass below it.
The powerful and protective symbol of the Ways to Compostela, the scallop shell has its beginning according to tradition in the sandy beaches we have already passed on our first few days walking. It represents pilgrimage, guidance, and spiritual transformation. It signifies the journey, with its lines converging towards Santiago de Compostela, and symbolizes the interconnectedness of pilgrims. Historically, it served as a practical tool for pilgrims to eat and drink, and has become a widely recognized emblem of the Camino, used on markers and worn by pilgrims. We have one hanging on our packs.
It is very quiet today and we don’t come across many pilgrims although as we rest beside a church an Australian passes and stops for a chat. Deb from Melbourne on her second Camino, walked 37 km yesterday. Wow! When I hear things like this it can make me feel a bit pathetic when I’m struggling to walk 18km. But comparison is the thief of joy and I have to be grateful that my body is allowing me to do this at all.
The rest of our walk took us through more lovely countryside and small villages where there were more shrines at frequent intervals along the way. Some are decorated with colourful ribbons, prayer cards, a pair of boots, signs, a small stuffed animal, shells, statues, flowers, photos, a rosary, bits of this and that.
At one point, walking over a pass between valleys, we came upon what can only be described as a Fairy Glen; on the lefthand side, the forest filled with wild calla lilies…
… on the righthand side the orange-yellow trumpets flowers you see in the picture below, faces turned down towards us. It was magical, and refreshing, and unphotographable.
Quiet paths, byways and cobbled tracks, peaceful landscapes, woodlands, vineyards and quaint Portuguese villages with rich histories and legends.
There were sections where trees provide some shade, but others where the sun was beating straight down on us and as the day went on and got hotter, it became more and more difficult. And we ran out of water. There had been no bathrooms, no shops, no cafes or bars at all today… and suddenly… like an oasis in the desert, there was an esky outside someone’s home with bottles of water and a donation tin.
We couldn’t have been more grateful and gulped that precious liquid before making our last push towards Ponte de Lima.
The Camino always provides.
At one point we were under a grapevine arbour walkway and of course, more cobblestones. And then… an ethereal entry to Ponte as elegantly arching sycamore trees made a stunning sun-dappled veil overhead like a shimmering illusion. To overheated exhausted pilgrims, it was so welcome. There was a huge market under the trees along the river and we walked through the middle, not even looking, just wanting to get to our hotel as quickly as possible.
We could see in the distance the famous Roman bridge from which the town gets its name.
The oldest village in Portugal, Ponte de Lima, turned out to be just lovely… after showers and rest. And we have a great view from our room.
Full of character and charm…
… the town sits on the slow-flowing Lima River, and has been the primary river crossing since the Romans constructed a bridge here in 1AD. The age of the town is reflected in a delightful assortment of medieval houses, pretty plazas and ancient religious buildings throughout the town… and it has stunning natural scenery, which all together creates a wonderful little town.
We make ourselves presentable and go out for a wine. We google restaurants nearby and read the reviews and decide on a little tapas place. When we put it into google maps, we realise we are already sitting in it having our wine.
So we stay for dinner and head home for bed. It is nearly sunset and we aren’t usually around at this time, so I leave Anne to go to bed and go out to watch the sunset- nothing spectacular but such a pretty place.
I also decide to get up soon after sunrise. I knew it would take a while for the suns rays to actually come over the town and hit the gorgeous old bridge- just beautiful.
We have a rest day today, planned months ago for practical reasons… but another little blessing of the Camino as today is forecast to be around 37° and I would hate to have been walking in that heat… yesterday at 34° was bad enough. We spend the day resting and doing chores- washing clothes✔️…bank ✔️… send parcel home to lighten my main pack✔️… chemist for more nurofen, chapstick and something for my hikers rash (yes it’s a real thing)✔️
And I do a little exploring through the town and visit some of the churches.
I’m actually disappointed to be leaving this town tomorrow. Preparations are being made everywhere for the Corpus Christi “party” that starts tomorrow night and goes into the next day. It’s actually hard to envisage this place in party mode as it is such a quiet town. But there are lights and sound systems being set up all over town and huge bars ready for copious amounts of drinks. They are testing one of the sound systems as I write. Apparently people come in from towns for miles. It’s a pity to miss it although we had plenty of music blasting in the middle of the night in Lisbon. What would have been a huge highlight would have been to see the streets of the historic center adorned with intricate floral carpets, created by residents using flowers, sawdust, and other materials. The carpets are made for the Corpus Christi procession, where the Blessed Sacrament is carried through the town.
I remember being in Guatemala for something similar and it was amazing.
Anyway, it is not possible at this stage and it’s a new adventure for us again tomorrow as we head into Spain.
Steps today- 30,328
Kilometres today- 20.39
Floors climbed- 14
Temperature- 34°
Some of the wildflowers today
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The church bells are ringing
Day 5
The church bells are ringing… nearly all day. It’s Sunday… and in every village, they’re chiming us in and out… and then just keep ringing all the way in between. I love the sound of church bells and as we walk today I wonder how many people over the centuries have heard those bells, and here we are… walking through more sleepy villages, cornfields and vineyards listening to those bells.
I remember going to see the Powerhouse exhibition “1001 remarkable things”. There was this huge really old bell there, I think from the 14th century or something and I read that according to Buddhist tradition, the sound of a bell can gladden the heart of immortals, stop ghosts from their evil-doings and break open the gates of hell to bring relief to the suffering and the distressed. No wonder I love the sound of church bells.
Today is Mums birthday… heavenly birthday for those who might not know me. And it somehow seemed quite poignant for me today, walking the Camino, listening to those bells when it was mum that had really started my journey towards the Camino.
Doing the Camino is a deeply personal and transformative journey… and it’s different for everyone. Many walkers seek spiritual growth, a sense of accomplishment, or a connection to nature and community. Many don’t really know why they’re walking and I would likely place myself in that category but I felt it calling and I guess any chance for self-discovery and reflection is positive.
Things come up inside you when you walk – sometimes it’s grief about people you’ve lost or disappointments in how your life has turned out… maybe missed opportunities… fear of the future. Other times, it’s sheer delight at being alive. It’s about coming to terms with your own story. And that’s what pilgrimages are about. Breaking open your heart. And I felt a bit of both today… grief and joy.
I felt a connection with mum… even though our relationship was always difficult. And maybe that is part of why I am here… coming to terms with never having the relationship with her that I might have expected… the disappointment of what never was and never can be. And as I was thinking about this, I came across a gardenia bush… which I hadn’t seen in Portugal before. Gardenias were mum’s favourite flower and what we threw on her coffin before she was buried. I picked one and attached it to my pack and had that beautiful fragrance with me all day. One of the small blessings of the Camino. They say “the Camino always provides”… whatever it is you need. Even if it’s a gardenia.
There was also sadness as we heard of the passing of a beautiful friend back home… happy knowing she was ready and had been with family… and grateful for a life well lived…and for generational friendships but sadness knowing we will never see her again this side of heaven.
I also felt joy from just being in the right place at the right time. It was a glorious morning and lovely to be walking in the sunshine, through the countryside with its valleys and hills, along ancient pathways, through vineyards, farms and brief patches of fragrant pine and eucalyptus forests. The path was clear and easy to read with lots of well-maintained signs, arrows and way markers and very little need to stop and read a map.
Far off in the distance I could hear drumming and wondered what it was… probably some kind of festival as there has been one in nearly every place we’ve been. We continued to walk and it didn’t stop. Eventually we got to the tiny village of Lijó where the drumming was coming from and it seemed like the whole town was walking towards something. We were going this way anyway and followed… just in time as everyone descended on the little chapel of Santa Cruz… built in 1843 after a cross appeared on the ground. Some kind of celebration was happening apparently associated with the Festival of the Crosses (Festa das Cruzes), which takes place in June, specifically at this time.
There was a small procession carrying the cross of Jesus covered in flowers…
… and a narrow carpet of flowers leading to another cross covered in more flowers.
I had no understanding of what was happening but it was quite beautiful and gave me an unexpected moment of joy.
We passed a few little churches as we always do and then heard some lovely singing coming from a modern church… so we called in and sat down, just in time to hear a beautiful rendition of Hallelujah in Portuguese… a song we both love. Another of the many small blessings of the Camino.
Passing through more small villages we reached Ponte das Tabuas, a twelfth century bridge that passes over the Rio Neiva. I sat on the bridge with my feet hanging over watching the water flow by slowly thinking about what a beautiful day it had been… and wondering how far til we could stop.
And thankfully from the Ponte das Tabuas it was a walk of only about a kilometre or so before getting to the tiny hamlet of Balugaes- a place so small that it can’t even be described as a village… and then we saw the blue door of Casas da Quinta da Cancela in front of me.
We were lucky once again as our home for the night was right on the Camino path. What a treat! As soon as we opened the door we said “Wow”… there was such a sense of serenity and beauty with grapevines everywhere.
Idyllic old farm with stone buildings kept mostly as it had always been and now used as accommodations for pilgrims… a peaceful place surrounded by nature… and we were staying in the actual original farmhouse.
Checking in with Alex, the host, we arranged to have dinner onsite. It was a Sunday, we were exhausted and weren’t sure what, if anything, would be open in Balugães so it seemed like a good (easy) choice. As it turned out, our friends Constance and Matthew were once again staying at the same place and we could have dinner together… probably for the last time 😢…
Steps today- 25,044
Kilometres today- 16.42
Floors climbed-6
Temperature- 24°
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Dirt roads and great conversation
“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” John Muir
Day 4
Today was a very good day… and much like what I had actually expected of yesterday. Looking out my window I could see that the sun was shining really for the first time since leaving Porto and I was looking forward to getting on the road after yesterday’s disappointments.
We began with wonderful conversation at breakfast with our friends Constance and Matthew whom happened to be staying at the same guesthouse… and another American, Chris who is on his 7th Camino in 8 years. Chris was a gentle and wise deep thinker with a passion for people less fortunate than himself who has spend much of his life working for NGOs. We talked about all sorts of things… one of those positive and inspirational conversations that leave you feeling a little more hopeful for the world… but one thing particularly stayed with me. We had discussed how negative words have so much stronger impact on people than positive words… they seem to stick. He agreed and wondered why, we can’t replace post traumatic stress disorder with post ecstatic joy remembrance… and in the moment it seemed like such a wonderful idea… to focus on the wonderful memories and experiences of life rather than the traumatic ones.
The mornings route took us through back roads, dirt farm paths, young vibrantly green corn fields, forested areas and a fragrant eucalyptus forest which I didn’t expect here in Portugal. Nature and stillness surrounded us… and the only sounds were our footsteps crunching on the ground… the buzzing of bees and the ever persistent bird song… an occasional moo or rooster crow… and the sound of our own breath.
Grapevines abound and wildflowers bloom everywhere.
It was good walking weather- warmer than it has been previously and no jackets or jumpers are needed. Apparently hot weather will very soon be upon us.
I hadn’t used my poles since leaving Porto… actually hadn’t even taken them out of my large pack until today as we would be walking a variety of road surfaces and hills… and as I remember from my Machu Picchu trek, they were very helpful for the downhill stretch and took some of the weight off my knees.
On the coastal route, the yellow arrow “waymarkers” are few and far between because the general rule is to follow the sidewalks or boardwalk along the ocean. On the central route, the arrows become essential as streets wind through farmlands and villages, beside homes and businesses. Not all arrows are on formal markers. Many are painted on the backs of signposts, sides of walls or on the pavement.
Every kilometre or two there are also the official Camino marker, telling us how many km left to Santiago although it will be more for us with the route we have decided to take. These waymarkers are often made into little pilgrim shrines with mementos and small stones left here.
We come across a giant brightly coloured rooster, the symbol of Portugal, basically in the middle of nowhere.
The Barcelos rooster is the country’s emblem because one of these creatures supposedly saved an innocent pilgrim from death. In the same place there is an area where pilgrims have left personal items, abandoned shoes (some with plants growing in them), momentos… a makeshift memorial… and this is a common practice on the many camino routes through Europe.
Anne squats behind a wall for a wee with me on lookout, as bathrooms are few and far between… and just seconds after she is presentable, an Italian man walks past. Lucky this time 😂
We see other pilgrims throughout the day… and there is always the greeting, ”bom caminho” as we pass them (or they pass us) at rest stops. We see Constance and Matthew several times during the day and meet others from Hungary, Colombia and walk for a while with a young girl from Germany who dreamed of doing a Camino since she was 15.
We walk for the rest of the day, through farms and the Portuguese coutryside… full of churches…
… shrines… lemon trees and villages where the paths vary between narrow lanes, cobblestone streets and rocky dirt roads. And wildflowers… always wildflowers.
We finally arrive in Barcelos… an old town famous for the legend that lies behind the Rooster of Barcelos the painted statue we saw earlier and the colourful souvenirs that are prolific throughout the town and actually all over Portugal.
The town is bigger than I expected… and more awesome… with a vibrant medieval vibe. Almost as soon as we walk over the historic medieval bridge…
… it becomes obvious very quickly that there is some kind of medieval festival on and you can tell who the tourists are because all the towns people are dressed up in costume.
It’s huge… with markets covering the town which is buzzing with tourists.
We quickly go to our hotel to shower and change so we can explore the town.
This ride was not mechanised- the guys would hold the seats and then run to get it going. The city’s historic center features monuments and landmarks that reflect its rich history.
We check out the Archaeological Museum of Barcelos which occupies what remains of 15th century Palace of the Counts of Barcelos, after the 1755 earthquake.
The flower filled plaza surrounding the main Barcelos cathedral was a visual delight after a day filled with dusty roads and cobblestones.
Mother church of Barcelos (Santa Maria Major), Romanesque from the 14th century
I fell in love with Solar dos Pinheiros with its pretty windows and sand-coloured stone and flowers.
Temple of Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz was a unique, octagonal building dates back to the early 18th century, and its interior is a nice example of Baroque architecture with some lovely azulejo tile work.
We then sat in a lively outdoor bar and enjoyed a glass of wine and some chips… which then filled us up so our plans of having a lovely dinner at a nearby restaurant went out the window. Home to bed. This Camino business is exhausting!
Steps today- 29,578
Kilometres today- 18.5
Floors climbed- 7
Temperature– 30°
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Much of today actually really sucked
Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R.Tolkien
Day 3
But we kind of were… lost, I mean. Or at least heading in the wrong direction without realising it. Much of today actually really sucked… although it started well
It was a bit of a cool blustery morning blowing off the Atlantic coast as we set off from our wonderful guest house and said goodbye to the beautiful Ana.
We start once again along the coastal route of the Senda Litoral and the long stretches of sandy beaches remind me in many ways of some of the beaches at home.
Our plan is to move inland at Vila do Conde and meet the Central Route of the Portuguese Camino, which we will continue on for a few days for a different sort of experience… but that comes later in the day. For now it is all gorgeous coastline.
The first stretch was lovely- a brand new boardwalk through an eco reserve where once again we were surrounded by wildflowers of many varieties… the sounds of nesting birds (I think under the boardwalk where we walked) and croaking frogs.
A few small areas of the boardwalks were covered in sand which wasn’t the easiest to walk on but thankfully those stretches were very short.
We passed a few pilgrims with the “Bom Caminho” regular greeting and plenty of local runners and dog walkers
Turning inland briefly there were cobbles, which are hard on the feet and legs but by now we should be pretty used to them after Lisbon, Sintra and Porto. And I do love cobblestones. Sadly my ankles don’t and where I thought my crappy knee would be the issue… or even my hips, it is the crappy ankles that are causing me grief. Oh well- it is what it is.
Before long we were crossing the bridge over the Rio Ave to Vila do Conde. This town is one of the oldest settlements in Portugal with evidence of human habitation as early as 100,000 years ago. Theres also a striking 17th century aqueduct…
… and a host of old churches and buldings from the 16th and 17th centuries and Ana had suggested we check out the old monastery with its great view over the town and river…
and Igreja de São João Batista which we did.
We wandered a little around the vibrant town…
From here we could have continued on the Coastal route but this is where we planned to turn off and continue on the Central route towards Rates where we were staying tonight.
I had a few concerns about finding our way to the central route today as I had read that the markers weren’t great and knowing me, we’d get lost. Directions are certainly not my strongest talent. But in hindsight, I wish I had followed my gut and Google maps as my Camino Ninja App doesn’t seem to switch between routes. Anyway, we ended up following the shells and walked and walked and nothing seemed to really change. By now I was expecting to be walking in the beautiful Portuguese countryside where wildflowers grew in the meadows, cala lilies flourished in big clumps under grape vines and every town or village seemed to have an ornately patterned chapel. This is what I had read about today’s journey but it just wasn’t happening. Eventually I checked google maps just to see where we were and realised we had been following the waymarkers for the Senda Littoral or coastal route where we were meant to have turned off. We are now an hour past the turn off and it’s no point going back so I just resort to google maps to find our way to Rates.
I am so angry with myself for not following my intuition and am in a VERY bad mood. Not only have we added several kilometres to an already long day but we have replaced the beautiful rural villages we were supposed to walk through with seemingly unending suburbs, industrial areas and fairly major roads with lots of traffic… with nowhere to stop, nowhere to sit, and nowhere to even walk at times as there were no paths or shoulders on the sides of the roads leaving us very vulnerable and nervous. It was actually dangerous at times. And then, just to top it all off, the rain set in! I actually wanted to scream or cry.
There was some rural areas
… and we did pass some pretty shrines…
… pretty gardens with stunning hydrangeas that are prolific here… even in colours I have never seen before.
But my eyes weren’t really seeing beauty at this stage and I stomped on… and on… and on. I think the relief of peeing in a cornfield might have been the highlight of the afternoon 😂🤷🏼♀️.
We continued for what seemed like forever and by the time we arrive I am stumbling like a drunk old woman I am so tired and in pain.
We were booked into Casa Anabela for the night which was right on the camino and we arrive shortly before 4. Such a relief to pull off the shoes after walking 23km and have a hot shower. We ask for restaurant recommendations and find there are only three restaurants in town… one is a bar that doesn’t look like it welcomes women. We take a little time to look around the village… it’s very small so we don’t need long to explore. The historical centre had an interesting collection of buildings including a Roman church…
…. and the 18th century chapel of senhor da Praca but it is very quiet although it looks like perhaps there are preparations happening for something. We don’t think much of it and continue on to find somewhere for dinner. A while later we are happy when the lovely Constance and Matthew whom we met yesterday, wander in and end up joining us for dinner. And there was a pretty sunset.
Lovely ending to a not so lovely day.
And the preparations for the thing that we noticed earlier… whatever it was went noisily into the night including very loud fireworks at midnight.
Steps today 33,172
Kilometres today 22.45
Floors climbed 8
Temperature 22°
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And I think to myself what a wonderful world 