We cross into Bulgaria today- country number 55 and counting. Our first destinations- Veliko Tarnovo… a quaint cliffside city which was the old capital of Bulgaria for over 2 centuries and more recently has been awarded the prize ‘The Most Beautiful Town’ in Bulgaria. A Medieval fortress, an unbearably charming Old Town and amazing views over the town, the surrounding green hills and the Yantra river, are some of what this place has to offer. It’s one of those special places where natural and man-made wonders seem to complement each other effortlessly. 

The town is gorgeous with its beautiful houses, layered amphitheatrically along the river banks; the historical cobblestone streets lead you past the colourful flower-decked houses and the red rooftops cascading down the cliffside look like something out of a fairy tale. It’s also a vibrant and artistic city that still sustains local traditions, crafts, and architecture… for me, a perfect recipe for an amazing couple of days!

We strolled the charming, winding handicraft street with its old-time cafes, local craft shops and “workshops” where the artisans make their woodcarvings, knives, jewellery, art and other traditional pieces and here, nearly everyone in our group was tempted with one thing or another by the time we moved on. 

We visited the small sky walk that gives amazing panoramic views not just of the cliffside city but also the winding river, nearby hills, the monument across the other side, and more.

We continued on through the beautiful streets filled with rickety houses…

… while enjoying amazing views,

… down steep staircases to the river Yantra and across the Stambolov Bridge…

… which brought us to a beautiful viewpoint where I could snap gorgeous hillside photos of Veliko Tarnovo as the sun was setting. 

Our lovely guide Alina said she had a surprise for us before dinner so we headed out with no idea where we were going or what we would see. So, I mentioned at the beginning that there was a fortress… well… in the evening, when it gets dark, there is an impressive “Sound and Light” show over the Tsarevets fortress. The whole fortress is lit up and the show tells the history of Tsarevets and the Second Bulgarian Kingdom through sound and light. And anyone who knows me knows that, as a lover of colour and light, I eat this stuff up. And so completely unexpected in a random little place in Bulgaria. Amazing! 

And then onto dinner for some delicious Bulgarian staples… one of the best meals I’ve had on this trip complete with traditional donuts with all things pumpkin. Yum!

Early next morning after getting up for the sunrise…

… we set off for Arbanasi, for a little more of Bulgarias culture. The ancient village, set on a high terrace above Veliko Tarnovo, is steeped in history and basically a giant living museum… with preserved magnificent architectural monuments of the Age of the Bulgarian Revival, old churches and monasteries 

… and beautiful yards filled with flowers and greenery, and of course, cobbled streets… and where people still living relatively traditionally. Perfect for wandering and enjoying a bit of peace and tranquility.

From the outside some of the buildings were not even recognisable as a church, unlike the orthodox churches seen in most other places.

But inside, every square inch was covered in frescoes representing different Christian stories and parables.

From Arbanasi, part of our group taxied home while the rest of us trekked the steep and at times rocky and slippery cliff top path back down…

… with incredible views of Veliko Tarnovo and the Balkan mountains… via the “Love swing” which was a highlight. 

After crossing the bridge and admiring the gorgeous view…

… it was time to explore the most significant monument in Veliko Tarnovo… the medieval fortress Tsarevets, sitting on the peak of the same name, surrounded on three sides by the river Yantra. This is what had been featured in the spectacular light show we saw last night. The imposing surrounding walls wrap around the hillside guarding the ruins of the remaining houses, royal palace and churches of what was a medieval town… and transport you back to Medieval Bulgaria. 

Here, the main attraction is the Patriarchal Cathedral Of the Holy Ascension, right on top of the fortress…

… and it was certainly not what I expected. In fact, it was one of the strangest churches I’ve ever been in, with extremely unusual religious artwork inside. Whereas the outside of the church is very traditional, done in the Byzantine style with a traditional stone exterior, the inside is just weird… somber…macabre… depressing… creepy… featuring modernist murals painted in the 80’s. Usually I love these orthodox churches, but I couldn’t wait to get out of this one. 

The interior of the church wasn’t always so strange. It used to be incredibly ornate, with floor mosaics of multi-colored marble and gemstones like sapphire. The walls were covered in more traditional Orthodox frescos. However, the interior decor didn’t survive the years, and during the reconstruction efforts in the 20th century, the church got a decidedly unusual facelift. Because of these strange murals, the church has never been re-consecrated and lis no longer in use today, except by curious tourists (like us).