Chasing Blossoms

I kind of feel like I’ve been surrounded by death recently… with the death of a very good family friend not so long ago… both my parents and my only two uncles deaths last year. And of course, working in aged care where death is perhaps expected… and while sometimes a blessing it is still confronting. But when another friend recently passed away, not so much older than me, I was particularly conscious of the fragility and impermanence of life… and how we have to live it while we can. I am always filled with wanderlust, so when I found out I had a week off work at Easter I booked a pretty impromptu trip to Japan to see the Sakura… which has long been a dream of mine.

Spring is a time of renewal, fresh starts and new beginnings, and as a symbol of springtime, the cherry blossom (Sakura) symbolises that beauty, impermanence and transience of life that I’ve been so conscious of lately. The flower has a very short blooming period, only a week or two each season- and the ephemeral nature of the blossoms is seen as a reminder to appreciate the beauty of life while it lasts… to savour the fleeting moments of joy and happiness… and cherish the memories they create.

Sadly the transience of the blossoms did not really work in my favor, with the earliest blossoming ever (hello climate change?) which meant that while I was meant to be here for the the peak blossoming season… it had actually passed. Disappointed is putting it mildly. But there are still blossoms… just not at their peak. So the glass is half full!

So I normally hit the ground running. Anyone who knows me when I travel will know that I suffer hugely from FOMO. I might miss one blossom if I don’t go out. Determined not to miss them before they fall, I planned to head out as soon as I got to my hotel- even if it were 10pm. Not so lucky! Arriving in Japan, it was not the efficient process that I had expected from a country whose trains run to the minute. It took just short of four hours to get through immigration. Then the Japan Rail office where I was supposed to pick up my rail pass was closed so I had to pay for a ticket that I had, in theory already paid for. No direct trains to where I was going and I would have to make a change on this confusing subway system and I was too tired to think about that. So when I got off my first train, I decided to catch a taxi the rest of the way to my hotel. $100 later and I didn’t care… I was just so relieved to arrive… well after midnight. No blossoms for me tonight. And no dinner. Tomorrow had to be a better day.

I set my alarm for 5 am despite that meaning I would only have about four hours sleep. Headed out with a spring in my step to Yoyogi Park which is one of the most famous spots for watching the cherry blossoms and during Sakura season this place is apparently swarming with people. But not at 5am- just a few yoga enthusiasts…

I had imagined watching the soft light shining through the cherry blossom trees- except that there was no soft light, just a general haze. And even worse, the cherry blossoms were few and far between. I wanted to cry!

My very first blossoms

Don’t get me wrong, it was a beautiful park… it was just my expectations that were the problem.

There were some blossom trees…just way past their best

I then visited the Meiji Shrine to feel the sacred atmosphere of Japanese historical shrines… and apparently a tranquil place to see some sakura in Tokyo. In theory! But no blossoms. I was also looking forward to visiting the inner garden which I believe is so beautiful. But the disadvantage of hitting the road early is that not everything is open. Including the inner garden. The day had not started well.

Sake barrels at Meiji Shrine. The connection between sake and shinto shrines lies in the belief that people get closer to the gods when they drink sake. The (full) barrels of sake are typically donated to the shrines by sake brewers from all over Japan 🤣

I decided to brave the intimidating subway system for my next stop but needed to go the the Japan Rail office to get my pass that I was unable to collect last night. But of course, it was closed. Pay for tickets again that were already paid for and eventually managed to make my way to The Meguro River, which is probably one of the most popular places in Tokyo to admire the beautiful blossoms. The entire river is lined like a promenade with hundreds of weeping pink and white cherry blossoms on both sides, which during peak blossoming cause the canal to become a sea of delicate pink blossoms. But not today 😢

The trees hanging over the narrow river are just so beautiful despite being well past their peak bloom and I loved how the shedding petals drift away in the breeze and into the gentle flow of the river water.

It’s a nice long walk with lots of gorgeous places for pictures. The day was looking up!

It was lunchtime and I still hadn’t had anything to eat since lunch on the plane yesterday so headed to my next destination- the Sensoi Temple…

… with its enormous paper lanterns and huge crowds…

… for some street food from the market there.

Tried some popular local snacks…

… nothing exceptional but it filled the hole and replenished my energy for the rest of the day ahead.

Sakura treats of all kinds are available everywhere at the moment

To escape the crowds I walked down to the banks of the Sumidagawa River where once again there are cherry blossom trees everywhere on both sides of the river.

The area features over 600 sakura trees along the riverside path, where you can catch glimpses of one of the most iconic landmarks in Tokyo- the Tokyo Skytree (the second tallest building in the world- 635m) between the blossoms.

From here I headed off for two amazing experiences with light and colour but they deserve their own blog. But after I was finished there, despite being completely exhausted, I found my way to Chidorigafuchi Greenway to see the night illumination of blossoms. This was apparently one of the most beautiful places to see the cherry blossoms… in gardens that were once a part of the Imperial palace. The beloved blooms put on an extravagant and captivating show along the 700m-long walkway along the palace moat. Covered by a tunnel of Sakura trees of different varieties, the walkways are tinted pink by the hundreds of cherry trees and the moat can be completely covered in petals, creating a illusion of an ethereal pink river. It is apparently especially beautiful at night when the night time illuminations light up the trees with the pink glow reflecting back at you. I was excited to see this (especially as I had missed out on the Meguro river illumination the previous night)… but arrived to find out that last night had been the LAST night. Again I could have cried.

Headed back Shibuya way on the subway for a lovely bowl of ramen (my first real meal since the night before I left home) and a hot bath for my tired bones, after walking nearly 30 kilometres for the day.


One response to “Chasing Blossoms”

  1. As usual so well explained I was almost walking your journey through such amazing vistas in the latter blooming of the Cherry Blossom trees.

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