So I know that some people think I’m crazy. I’m obsessed with moss and lichen and fungi. If you want to impress me, don’t give me diamonds. Take me somewhere where there are gnarled and mossy tree roots…
… the classic, soothing sound of gentle water… a cascading creek that gurgles gently between the undergrowth…
… a flowing waterfall…
… amazing dripping lichens of every shade of green…
… and where a lush green layer of spongey moss blankets the forest floor.
There is certainly some special and powerful energy ju-ju that comes from these ancient rainforests- and I feel the life pulsating and drink the wild air. Here everything is magical.
In these magical fairylands, you find some things that look quite different from plants, trees and animals. They might look squishy…
… crusty…
… fluffy…
… lacey…
…or hairy…
…and they can often be found growing on other plants or trees.
These mysterious life forms might look a bit alien, but they grow throughout earth! They are called mosses, lichen and fungi.
So if you’re a crazy like me… I thought I’d look for an easy explanation of what they are.
Mosses are simple plants. They have small leaves on a single stem. Mosses often grow in groups because being clumped together helps support each plant, and they can gather more water when they work together.
Fungi are neither plants or animals; they are their very own kingdom with over a million species. Unlike plants, fungi are unable to create their own nutrients through photosynthesis, so they absorb nutrients from different materials such as leaf litter, dead wood, trees, and other plants.
Lichen are very fascinating organisms, with approximately 3600 species. They are commonly associated with mosses, but are actually very different. They don’t have roots, leaves, or stems like mosses do. They are not just one, but two living things working together to live! Lichen are made of fungi and algae. The fungi makes the structure of the lichen and the algae photosynthesizes to make the food! And they come in a rich variety of colors, ranging from bright yellow, red, and orange to green, black, brown, silver, and gray.
And then there is just pure aesthetics of these organisms. With their other-worldly qualities, they inspire wonder and creativity for me.
Sometimes I don’t know what they are… and I don’t care. I just love them!
How about you? Do you think I am completely insane 😆
And then there’s the epiphytes… but I think I’ll just stop there…
As usual I woke way too early and popped my head outside for the sunrise.
After a delicious breakfast of spiced quince oats and truffle omelette with fresh squeezed orange juice and chai/coffee we sadly said our goodbyes vowing to be back again soon.
We drive just down the road to Latrobe to check out the recommended Reliquaire toy and gift store. This is one amazing store, massive…. and comparable to Aladdin’s cave with its trove of treasures with an old world quirkyess. Nutcracker soldier statues standing to attention outside give a slight hint that this will be no ordinary store.
Behind each door or around each corner you might find a hungry life-sized dinosaur, lion or polar bear… a magical Christmas wonderland… or fall down a rabbit hole! It is a gift and gadget paradise with lots of creepy dolls, a handpicked range of candles and skincare, clothing and handbags, jewellery, vintage furniture, games and science toys, puppets, soft toys, baby gifts, cool books, Disney and Alice in Wonderland collectibles, replica Medieval swords and helmets, kitchenware and cookbooks, games and puzzles, wooden toys, puppets, dinosaurs, fairy dresses, Harry Potter and Doctor Who themed areas. It blew my mind! What an incredible, fantastic shop. I cannot fully describe it, you must EXPERIENCE it for yourself.
The staff, who were all amazing, took us down to check out the Alice in Wonderland area, and the “Down the Rabbit Hole” carpet. This is a visual effect that can be unnerving, it truly looks like a hole in the floor… and took some wacky photos of us.
So, what did we buy? Sadly, as travellers with small suitcases we couldn’t buy much although Karen found an antiquey lead light lamp which was something she’d been looking for a couple of years and had it sent home. Me- several kids books. Seriously the best range of lovely kids books I have ever seen. You could easily spend hours within this store, browsing all it has to offer but on a definite timeline with flights to catch later in the day, we had to leave as there was still a couple more quick stops on our itinerary. What a kaleidoscope of joy! A must visit!
We then made a stop at Deloraine. The town might be small- with a population of only 2000- but it is big on character and stands in the shadow of the Great Western Tiers. The historic streets are lined with charming Georgian and Victorian era buildings, cafes, bakeries and art and craft stores.
We passed a park that was so beautiful… with the most amazing blossoms I have ever seen.
And then visited the three monthly country market before driving to Evandale. Like several other small towns we had visited, when you arrive in Evandale you feel as if the clock has been wound back 100 years.
It’s a National Trust classified Georgian village with unspoiled heritage buildings making it a popular place for tourists and easily accessible from Launceston. Clarendon House, just outside of the village, is said to be one of Australia’s greatest Georgian houses.
I then dropped the girls at the airport. And now they have gone back to Brisbane and my plans that were the reason I stayed an extra day have been thwarted by circumstances beyond my control. Feeling kind of sad and lonely and at a bit of a loss at what to do. So visited City Park and walked in the sunshine.
Seems strange to have monkeys in the park and I felt sorry for them having this life in an enclosure… thought we knew better these days although I guess kids love coming to see them.
We have a late start this morning and amazing breakfast before leaving our amazing wilderness retreat heading north. Once again we drive through beautiful scenic countryside dominated by rich vivid green farming land dotted with cows and sheep and tiny flower lined roads through gorgeous villages… with cute little churches. It’s a long drive but all of it is lovely.
Our only stop today before our final destination is Trowutta Arch- a little off the normal tourist route but I had seen pictures and it looked worth the drive. This is our last rainforest visit and from the minute we walk in it is breathtaking .
After being lost in the wilderness the previous day, the graded pathway with a wooden border clearly defining the way was very welcome to us.
This forest doesn’t have quite the untamed wilderness feel of some of the other Tasmanian temperate rainforests we have seen but is still such a beautiful walk full of stunning scenery with huge Blackwood trees, myrtles and sassafras. But it’s the giant man ferns that dominate the landscape… the hugest ones I’ve ever seen. These majestic ferns create a much more open and airy feeling by allowing more sunlight to penetrate through their delicate fronds.
There are amazing tree roots and many fallen trees all covered in a blanket of thick green moss, adding to the beauty of this walk.
And of course, lichen and fungi.
The forest feels ancient and somehow like we’d strolled into Jurassic Park and I kept expecting a dinosaur to come running round the corner
Who’s that hiding underneath the tree roots?
We wander through this stunning rainforest and it leads us to another world… a set of beautiful, still, vivid green, algae covered ceynotes, framed perfectly by a tall arch… the remnants of an ancient cave. The roof of the cave fell in leaving a section between two sinkholes. Wow! It’s prehistoric wonderland meets outer space.
As you walk through the arch your world changes from a sea of greens to a jagged wall of limestone that surrounds the ever so still, deep, murky water (apparently some 20m deep according to the sign).
If we had been looking for a place to swim, this wouldn’t be it… it seemed like it would be the last swim you’d ever take if you jumped in as you’d be taken by some huge dinosaur crocodile or monster.
Looking back once inside the cave the view was incredible with the light shining through the tree ferns and framed by the arch. Absolutely amazing!!!
We then head for Stanley where we are spending the night… located on the northwest coast of Tasmania. As you drive into the pretty village of Stanley, you can’t miss the enormous cliff edged and ancient volcanic ‘plug’ of rock on which it sits- called “the Nut”. Think a giant geological feature that rises 150 metres out of the water dominating the skyline of the small town. The Nut is one of the biggest attractions for visitors with the summit being reached by either a thigh-busting walk (2.9km circuit loop- 45-60mins) or by taking the chairlift that soars 95 metres above the ground. But that’s hopefully for tomorrow depending on weather.
We take a walk around the perfectly preserved colonial town with cute-as-a-button cottages, stately buildings, quaint boutiques, and cozy cafes… every single building is beautifully kept!
I continued on to the fisherman’s wharf which reveals the true heart and soul of this beautiful town. Fishing boats, lobster catching pots and the crystal clear water of the Bass Strait.
I then followed the Wharf road all the way to the end to the base of The Nut, where the rugged rock meets the water…
… and then walked around the waters edge as the sun began to set.
We had been warned that in Stanley, dining options are few and without a booking you would go hungry… so we had booked weeks ago and enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner. I had been craving a good seafood chowder since arriving in Tassie and got my wish here with definitely the best I have ever eaten. Yum! I so wanted the frangelico crème brûlée but just couldn’t fit in in 😩
We then, despite the weather having turned into a rainy gale, went out hoping to see the penguins that Stanley is known for. The Tasmanian coastline is true penguin heaven, with an estimated 110,000 to 190,000 Little or Fairy penguins living on the Tasmanian mainland and offshore islands
We headed for the designated penguin watching platform at the end of Godfreys beach and saw some in the light of our headlights before we had even parked our car. The platform is equipped with red lights that allow you to see the penguins in the dark without harming the birds. As nocturnal birds, penguins are very sensitive to bright light and will avoid it at all costs.
Adult penguins spend their days feeding at sea and return to shore at night, where their chicks are waiting for them. And this is how you watch them… waddling up the beach. They are quite noisy and even when we couldn’t see them we could hear them. Difficult to see well with the red lights and hard to get good pictures and as we were getting soaked, we didn’t stay long before heading home.
Nestled high in the alpine reaches of the UNESCO Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, Cradle Mountain is a natural wonder. There are ancient pines within emerald-green forests, dramatic mountains, majestic lakes, and tumbling waterfalls to be discovered. We expected it to be cold here- the coldest part of our trip. It had even snowed within the last week and there was some snow on the mountain. We rugged up accordingly… beanies, scarves, puffers… and lots of layers. I briefly thought about putting on a tee shirt as one of my layers but thought I was being unrealistically optimistic even though it was a perfect day- probably the best of our entire trip with virtually not a cloud in the sky to start.
As we had very little time here, the obvious choice was to walk one of the jewels in the park- Dove Lake. We parked the car at the tourist information centre to catch the shuttle. After a quick pit stop, I realised I had left my phone in the cubicle but by the time I got back there, it was gone. Ominous sign for the day? But I’ll get to that later. Much later.
Dove lake is a stunning reflective glacial lake when you see it on a clear day… which we were lucky enough to do. Jagged prehistoric-like peaks protrude from ancient rainforest which reflect dramatically in the midnight blue of Dove Lake. It is clear why this area of outstanding natural beauty is the most popular outdoor attraction in Tasmania and by far one of Tasmania’s most beautiful walks.
As we traversed the 5.7 km trail below the towering, craggy spires of Cradle Mountain…
…we came across the impressive Glacier Rock…
…lakeside beaches…
… the moss-covered Ballroom Forest full of myrtle-beech trees draped in dropping lichen…
… and the dilapidated historic 1940’s-built King Billy Boatshed.
Native Tasmanian wildlife is everywhere… and we did see a few gorgeous fluffy moving rocks… otherwise known as wombats.
As the morning progressed, we gradually stripped off our layers, how I wished I had listened to my earlier optimism.
But despite how amazing the walk was, for me, it was still all about the forest (I know, I know- eye rolling all around). I’m sure everyone is sick of my verbose descriptions of the forest… but suffice to say we were all frothing once again.
After lunch at Cradle Mountain Lodge, we headed back to Lemonthyme Lodge to do another walk I had found in my research. Hidden among spectacular rainforest commencing from where we were staying are two breathtaking waterfalls – Champagne Falls and Bridal Veil Falls. Supposedly an easy to moderate track, we knew we were pushing it to finish before sun down.
We headed off and didn’t bother registering our walk. Wrong choice. Right from the start the girls were ‘gruff’ and whinging as we walked up and up and up and the 4WD track was relentless for about 1.5km. Trying to be upbeat, I’m laughing and saying “adventures with Ange”. Little did I know how much of an adventure it would be.
We finally find the turn off for the falls thinking it would be easier from here- and downhill… and we are cheering. Finally! The track is a circuit so, in theory it doesn’t matter which waterfall you visit first. We chose to do Bridal Veil first. Wrong choice.
Along the way we passed the most incredible forest of giant myrtle trees, the largest ones I’ve ever seen… and then the track descended sharply for about 200m and we arrive on a bridge spanning the river. Here we were greeted with the most spectacular waterfall. The falls themselves reach to around 20m in height and are an awe-inspiring sight when the river is full of water, which it was.
To the righthand side of the falls is a small track, and we walked up behind the falls themselves to peer through the curtain of water. Treacherous, slippery and muddy- a sign of things to come!
Continuing on from Bridal Veil falls, the track winds its way through the forest.
Myrtle and sassafras trees dominate the landscape, with tree ferns and all the things we love… moss, lichen and fungi.
The forest is dense yet serene and very beautiful but the track is steep, uneven and muddy and gets smaller… and smaller.. and smaller until there is virtually no track… a billy goat track. Gnarly roots everywhere try to trip us up…
…and we stumble and slip and slide in the water and mud grabbing anything we can to stop ourselves falling. We could imagine we were the first people to ever visit this place… like the pioneers we heard stories of on our train journey yesterday… except thankfully there were orange ribbons tied to the foliage periodically to mark the track.
It was all kind of funny… until it wasn’t. We were laughing… but it was nervous laughter. Light was starting to get low.
Eventually we reached the turn-off for Champagne Falls and we were thankful that we must be nearing the end. Wrong. The treacherous track just got worse… so steep and like a mud slide with spots where the the ground gave way under our feet. I was struggling at times and feeling guilty as I knew the girls would be even more… we thought about just sliding down on our butts as by this stage we were pretty covered in mud. But that was now the least of our worries.
Finally reaching the bottom, the track opened up into a small gorge. Champagne Falls is a spectacular waterfall, surrounded by towering black cliffs, beautiful green vegetation and large rocks at the bottom.
But we now can’t find the continuation of our track so the falls becomes an insignificant focus and we start to panic a little as we contemplate spending the night in the forest (potential 6.00pm news flash- three women in their 60s lost in the Tasmanian wilderness… with no water (by this stage) and no food (except jellybeans) 😂
We realise we need to go back the way we came as at least we know there is a path there… but we also know that we would never get all the way back before dark. We start to try to scramble up the muddy slide which was difficult enough on our way down but virtually impossible to get up. We pull on branches and tree roots and eventually get back up and then have to scramble over an enormous mossy fallen tree… and Sue finds another orange ribbon. Relief! We thank God as we are now back on track. But light is fading fast and we are exhausted and we know there is still quite a long way to go. Karen’s levels are dropping and she’s feeling shaky which is potentially a big problem (hello diabetic coma). We stop for her to eat some jellybeans and then keep pushing back up the steep track until we finally make it back to the road for the still long walk home. A challenging afternoon to say the least but a big adventure we will likely tell stories about for a long time. Nothing like getting lost in the wilderness… Adventures with Ange 😂
PS- I did get my phone back- some lovely person handed it into the tourist office
Today we stepped back in history to climb aboard a majestic Heritage train which journeyed through time, deep into the heritage of the wild West Coast, where tales of resilience and triumph showcase the iconic local spirit.
But first we started with a delicious breakfast and the best chai I’ve had since arriving in Tassie (I seem to have converted Sue away from coffee to chai as well) in the tiny “Coffee Shack” before heading off to the railway station. Funnily enough we were actually staying at ‘Station House’ BnB right across the road from the station.
Travelling in the exclusive Wilderness carriage provided us with a more luxurious experience… a little more space and a carriage balcony to allow us to immerse ourselves into the wildness and have unrestricted viewing & photo opportunities. Yay! We start with a glass of Tassie sparkling wine or and enjoy a series of small meals served throughout your journey (salmon and caviar canapés, scones with jam and cream, sweet potato, carrot and caramelised onion soup and homemade gin and pepper berry chocolates). And more wine!
The West Coast Wilderness Railway carves its way through Tasmania’s rugged western wilderness and ancient rainforest and took us to wild locations otherwise inaccessible. The train runs a 35-kilometre track between the towns of Queenstown and Strahan, retracing the steps of colonial loggers and miners and is of important historical significance for the area. Constructed in 1896 to transport ore from Queenstown’s mines to Strahan’s port, the railway was deemed impossible by many, who said this part of Tasmania was far too wild with enormous mountains, deep valleys, and seemingly impenetrable forest standing in the way.
During the journey, our guide told us some of the incredibly challenging stories of the railway… of triumph and tragedy and the resilient people who lived and worked along its length. Stories of the men who laboured to build the line… breaking through the rock by hand and through the cold damp wilderness forest too thick to swing and axe, in one of the wettest places on earth. And stories of those who kept the trains running… to the families and children that made a life in the forest…. and the two visionary Irishmen whose fierce rivalry and undaunted ambition, that combined with innovative engineering designs, brought the railway to life.
The railway is now one of the most popular tourist attractions in Tasmania and 3 of the 5 original locomotives used on this fascinating 1897-built railway are still in operation.
We stopped at Lower Landing on the edge of the King River, and Dubbil Barril where you could watch the locomotive being turned by hand before the return to Strahan. Here we also did another unbelievable forest walk to see the incredible wilderness Huon pine, giant tree ferns and other native forest species… before heading back to Strahan. Another wonderful experience and would thoroughly recommend.
From the train we head straight to Cradle Mountain where Jo is leaving us to join her family in Launceston. But just before she does, we have our first ‘close’ encounter with a wombat. So cute. They have teddy bear faces.
We then completed the delightful Enchanted Forest Walk which was recommended by my brother who was here not so long ago.
It meanders through clumps of buttongrass and bearded trees, magical, mossy old-growth rainforest… where a cascading creek gurgles gently between the undergrowth…
… and a bright green layer of spongey moss blankets the forest floor…
… complete with wombat burrows, amazing dripping lichen and fungi.
It’s a short walk but there is perhaps no more perfect name imaginable for this place. Beaneath a light dusting of glimmering raindrops, this forest boardwalk was like stepping into a fairyland.
It is difficult to keep trying to find greater and greater superlatives to describe the beauty of what we have seen and felt. But this one was very special… And we breathe it in (although there is still no sign of the elusive platypus which inhabits the inky pools amongst the forests).
The beautiful walk finishes with a view over Pencil Pine cascades where the creek falls about 10m over a wide ledge into a deep pool.
We finish the day at our cute little wilderness cabin at “Lemonthyme Wilderness Retreat” where we have a delicious dinner and feed the pademelons before retiring for the night. Two big walks coming up tomorrow.
We were in the little village of Strahan on the wild West Coast to experience nature at its most raw. Set on the edge of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, Strahan is the gateway to Franklin-Gordon Rivers National Park and today we were booked for a day of relaxed adventure on the Spirit of the Wild… a 6 hour cruise on Macquarie Harbour, through Hells Gates and headed for the deep dark waters of the Gordon River giving us the opportunity to experience the dramatic and untamed landscapes up close whilst learning of its history.
The harbour cruise is unlike anything you’ve experienced anywhere else in the world. Mirror-flat water reflecting the vast Tasmanian wilderness, misty mountain peaks, densely forested riverbanks and ancient Huon Pines holding back the lush, green rainforest, tannin-stained rivers and the brutal convict history of tiny Sarah Island.
The weather was not what we wanted and there were certainly no blue skies but in some ways it perhaps just added more atmosphere with low cloud and mist sitting over the forest as we made our way down the river through the serene wilderness beauty. This beauty is one that you definitely can’t capture with pictures. It’s more about the pristine silence (even the boat travels in ‘whisper’ mode) and knowing you are travelling through untouched wilderness with global significance. You can feel the cultural and spiritual significance. Though freezing in the front of the boat, I was in awe as I soaked it in. It felt like I was in a sacred place.
As we cruised along the river, all i could think about was how good it would be to get off the boat and have a look around. Heritage Landing was an opportunity to do just that. Our boat moored at a landing and we went on guided tour around a boardwalk loop through the forest. It was a great chance to see and smell the forest up close once again, including the magnificent Huon pines, and I can’t get enough of it. It really feels like some kind of prehistoric ’land before time’ movie set.
Huon pines-,these are endemic to Tasmania and grow to be over 3000 years old making them some of the oldest living organisms on earth. They grow at only 1 millimetre a year.
We then head to Sarah Island to learn the fascinating history of the convict and pioneer days and admittedly, i wasn’t all that fussed about the idea of convict history tour. But, the stop here and the stories of life on the island and how it ended up being a major ship building site was actually awesome- our guides was amazing and really brought the history to life.
After returning to Strahan, the girls return to our little BnB to warm by the fire while I decide to walk to Hogarth Falls. It is a pretty waterfall, cascading down the sheer, mossy rock face to the log strewn, tanin-stained waters below. A lovely short walk to the waterfall, the tree-fern lined walking track meanders adjacent to Botanical creek beneath stands of towering eucalyptus and through verdant temperate rainforest. It is apparently home to a number of platypus that frolick in the mornings or at dusk… but sadly, despite constant looking, I still haven’t managed to spot one.
Omg- what can I say. Maybe my favourite day so far- and that’s a big statement. But I’ve always loved the forest… and waterfalls… and moss. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
We leave Hobart- our earliest start so far as Mt Wellington was off the itinerary. More driving through impossibly scenic countryside including some snow kissed mountaintops. Wish my eyes could take photos as it’s often impossible to stop when you want to and very difficult to capture what you see while moving.
We head to Mt Field National Park to do our first waterfall walk. And I’m excited.
From the minute we enter the forest, we are ‘frothing’ (as my son Alex would say… meaning frothing at the mouth due to excitement)… the gnarled, fairy-tale mountain forest… the classic, soothing sound of gentle water… beautiful ferns including huge tree ferns, fungi and trees lining the path… the towering Swamp Gums, the world’s tallest flowering plant (just one of the many cool flora and fauna in Tassie!), glittering tannin-stained waters bubbling by your feet, the dripping mosses and lichens of every shade of green under the sun- and moss! Everywhere! I am obsessed with moss… it makes everything feel so alive with the intensity of its green green colour.
Forget Tasmania, it would have to be one of the world’s best short walks. And I haven’t even mentioned the actual falls yet!
Russell Falls… cascading down the rugged mountainside in three tiers and laced with swaying rainforest ferns, this curtain of shimmering water is a photographer’s dream. The symmetry, scale and sheer presence and beauty of this waterfall will stay with you forever. We are overcome with the beauty of creation and drink in the atmospheric scenery.
Next we walk up the many stairs to get to the top of the falls… that looks like just an innocent little stream which you wouldn’t expect to have such a giant and powerful drop at the end. It just does not make sense to me how it can produce enough water for how amazing those falls are, but I guess that is one of nature’s (Gods) little curiosities!
We then continued up many more stairs, and along the path to the gorgeous, tiered cascade waterfall Horseshoe falls. While the actual falls is not as spectacular as Russell Falls, the serenity and aesthetics of its tranquil surrounds with the vibrant green mossy rocks in the foreground make it perhaps even more beautiful.
As we had had an early start without breakfast, we call into the Waterfall cafe hoping to fill our empty tummies but find that the kitchen is not open yet… and we don’t have time to wait. So carrot cake it is and at least the girls can get their coffee fix (and chai for me) and then we are on our way again heading towards the wild west coast.
We pass through Derwent Bridge and as we were ahead of schedule, decide to make an unplanned stop at the Wall in the Wilderness which I had heard fantastic reviews on. It is Australia’s most ambitious art project undertaken in recent years, by creator/designer, Greg Duncan… a fascinating, one of a kind masterpiece, the Wall is an astonishingly realistic hand carved 100 metre stretch of wooden, mostly Huon pine panels. They depict the history of the Central Highlands of Tasmania as far back to when the area was inhabited by the indigenous people and forward through to the stories of pioneers and modern day hydro workers. The detail of each piece of wood that has been so lovingly crafted into a story in a way which brings incredible emotion into the art and to those who view it. It actually made me teary and was a truly fascinating experience, I was only frustrated that no cameras are allowed inside so photos are all from google.
Photo of Greg Walsh working on his labour of love. Staff there said it was like watching the grass grow 😂
We thought we might finally get some food here… but no such luck as the cafe has not reopened since covid. There was however a selection of lovely Tasmanian wines to enjoy by the toasty warm fire. We weren’t even allowed to take pictures by the fire.
Our next stop is to Nelson Falls, Just out of Queenstown. From the beginning the walk is picturesque, with deep green ferns and ancient trees… with lush, dense rainforest which is typical of region but quite different from the earlier falls we had visited earlier in the day. There is also more moss to feed my obsession. The walk to the waterfall has brilliant ‘education signs’, that challenge you to go back in time, and imagine what the area would have looked like hundreds of thousands of years ago… and explain how the habitat has evolved, and how some of the plants unique to this part of Tasmania are in fact ancient species that have managed to survive due to the cool, temperate climate that the Nelson Valley rainforests require.
Little pink robin
After a very windy drive through the mountains, we eventually arrive in Strahan, having basically not eaten all day. It is nearly dinner time and we are all starving, so I call the restaurant where I had booked us months ago on several recommendations, to see if we can bring our booking forward, only to find that they are closed and have been for a while. Apparently there are huge hospitality staffing issues in the area and very little is open. We find the local pub which has a queue and no available tables and start to think that we may be going to bed hungry… but they do eventually get us a table. We enjoy our meals immensely and head home for an early night. It’s been our biggest driving day, covering a lot of ground and tomorrow is another big day. Still so much to look forward to!
Today was an easy day and maybe the only one of the whole trip with no time pressure. Mt Wellington is impossible to ignore, rising high above Hobart with its alpine cap, fluted columns and lush, rainforest-clad slopes. Originally I had planned to go to Up the mountain for sunrise to see the jaw-dropping view from the summit, with the whole of Hobart and the Derwent River spread out below. However, with the rain, we figured it was not worth it as the view would likely have been shrouded in cloud (and have since discovered that the road is closed with ice and snow so won’t be able to see it before we leave. Disappointing… but that’s travel.
This is what we missed 🤷🏼♀️
So, we started the day with a walk in the rain to breakfast at Daci & Daci which had been recommended to me… an opulent destination for all- things-sweet, an artisanal patisserie and an absolutely delicious start to the day. Yum!
Then it was off to browse the colourful bustling Salamanca Market. Basically the whole trip had revolved around being in Hobart on Saturday so we could be here. I love a good market and wasn’t disappointed. With over 300 stalls- bargains and buskers, everything from fresh produce to hot food, Tassie wines and spirits, designer clothes and artisan handicrafts… it’s one of the biggest drawcards in Hobart. More than a few purchases were made although mostly delectable food bought direct from the producers to add to a planned dinner platter in a couple of days (no room in our little bags to actually take much home to Brisbane). We couldn’t resist a mouth watering salted crème brûlée pavlova even though we were definitely not hungry. That’s what holidays are for right?
Then walked a few of those calories off with a leisurely wander on the fringes of Hobart’s center, in Battery point… the city’s oldest and one of its prettiest suburbs. Originally the location of Hobart’s defensive garrison and home to hundreds of sailors and soldiers, these days, the defences are long gone, but the gorgeous Victorian and Georgian style houses constructed for the officers still remain. With a palpable sense of colonial history, the narrow streetscape is lined with boutiques, high-end hotels, grand mansions, cute cafés and cuter cottages… weatherboard or sandstone, beautified by house-proud owners with green thumbs. I think Karen wants to sell up and move here… or at least get a home with a bigger garden!
We found the most delightful formal English style walled park in our wanderings. St David’s park was the site of the first cemetery in Tasmania and a memorial wall which is made up of many of the original headstones from the park still remains including many headstones for children from those days when children’s life expectancy was not very high. Huge stately old trees and spectacular blossoms, magnolias, camellias, azaleas (purple ones which we had never seen and teeny tiny deep pink ones also), rhododendrons fill the park… we keep saying that throughout Tassie the blooms really do seem to be in steroids.
Had lunch at The Whaler in the heart of the market in Salamanca Place as I had been hanging out to try a lobster roll since before we left Brisbane. Once again… delicious with a local Tassie chardy (gin for the girls).
We then headed to the New Sydney Hotel… a laid-back watering hole in Hobart’s CBD, with a roaring fire, welcoming atmosphere and an Irish music jam session that had been recommended. We all love Irish music and it’s hard to find in Brisbane. It was soooo good… so many talented musicians enjoying themselves and everyone else in the bar having a wonderful time as well. Apparently irrespective of ability or repertoire every player/singer gets a free drink. I doubt you could have a more fun Irish experience outside of Ireland than this. If I lived locally I think I would be here very regularly.
Lovely sign means one hundred thousand welcomes
Walked home through the university rose garden and couldn’t resist more photos. Everyone’s probably sick of our flower photos but the blooms are seriously so amazing. Never seen a blossom tree so big and fully laden.
We had a comparatively quiet day today with one of our foursome still not well. Had a bit of a sleep-in and then headed off away from the Tasman Peninsula towards the big smoke- Hobart.
Once again passed beautiful panoramic scenery as we drove- it seems that everywhere in Tasmania has it in some variation.
Stopped on the way at the tessellated pavement at Eaglehawk Neck- a natural wonder that looks man-made and has to be seen to be believed. An inter-tidal rock platform where an unusual form of geological circumstances has resulted in a rare landform… much too complicated for me to understand or explain but it has something to do with salt crystals. Anyway, low tide exposes the geometric lines and angles of this bizarre rock formation- and it’s pretty cool. I would have loved to be here for sunrise or sunset as photos I have seen look stunning and is a photographers paradise. We have been so blessed with the weather so far but we knew it couldn’t last and the rain started to fall.
We continued on to Hobart and the girls dropped me off at Brooke St Wharf to go to MONA (Museum of Old and New Art)- something that I had been looking forward to but was of no interest to the others. A partly subterranean, privately owned museum that has been bankrolled by an eccentric local gambler: What’s not to love? Sounds intriguing at the very least… time to get weird and embrace the eccentric (poo machine anyone? Or how about the remains of a suicide bomber cast in chocolate. 😆)!
Accessed by a quirky ferry from Hobart and located within a winery, the eccentric, thought-provoking, envelope-pushing Museum of Old and New Art has some of the most outrageous, bizarre, interesting, artistically challenging, confronting and very adult art in Australia (works that please, confound and confront). But pushing the boundaries and poking a tongue out at the conventional art establishment is something creator David Walsh does not shy away from.
Once I arrived at MONA’s jetty, and climbed the 99 steps to the entrance, I resisted the temptation to enter straight away and instead spent time exploring the huge grounds with their quirky and magnificent sculptures, creative landscaping and architectural hardscaping… all with a spectacular view over the river to Mt Wellington.
The architecture and design of this massive building and precinct is mind-boggling and unconventional as it is predominantly underground. MONA is built into the landscape, tunneling down through the Triassic sandstone to create three subterranean levels. It is an artwork in itself so even if you’re not into art it is worth visiting for the architecture alone. It really is amazing!
MONA is set out as a maze of rooms, corridors, tunnels and open spaces. Unlike traditional museums there are no brightly lit rooms with art hanging on stark white walls; instead, there is interesting lighting that creates atmosphere. There are also no artwork labels as all info is provided by the museum’s phone app called The O.
This unique and provocative art collection definitely leaves an impression as you explore the three floors of subterranean architecture, art pieces and exhibits and is as much a sensory and interactive experience as it is a visual one. It is sure to shock, intrigue and even offend- and it is meant to. Its worth thinking about this quote by Cesar Cruz- “Art should comfort the disturbed, and disturb the comfortable”
I loved the Ladies Lounge. This is a women’s only space, without signage or fanfare on the exterior, but identifiable by expansive green velvet drapes and a female attendant ‘manning’ the entry. What you find inside apparently constantly changes. There was a male musician playing the saxophone… blind-folded- interesting touch.
There is a wall dedicated to vagina in MONA. The wall showcases sculptures of different shapes and sizes of vagina with an important message of inclusivity and diversity. I actually love this.
Loved a lot of pieces. Disliked or was kind of offended by a few. Indifferent to some. Some were funny. And many just downright weird! But generally loved the experience which finished after sitting outdoors in a hot pink bean bag sipping local bubbles and listening to some awesome and unusual live music
Inside the head
The girls were also enjoying a wine or two, keeping out of the rain back home at our beautiful new BnB- a cottage in the grounds of a stately Victorian hilltop villa set in majestic period gardens- The Carinda Collection.
What an epic morning. It will be impossible to find the words to describe the amazingness we experienced. But God is good. In so many ways! I had been following the weather for the last 10 days and it was always going to rain. But we woke to a beautiful day with perfect conditions for our Pennicott Wilderness boat cruise- the sun was shining, there was virtually no wind and minimal swell.
Sunrise view from our BnB
We started our day with a visit to Remarkable Cave. This geological oddity is aptly named- it really is remarkable! A sea cave that is actually more of a tunnel. In fact, it’s really two tunnels through the sea cliffs that join together. We visited at low tide for the best views and took the stairs down to see where the waves come through the cave.
Sculpting Tasmania. Can to see the shape of Tasmania silhouetted at the end of the tunnel?
We listened to the energy of the sea as it continues to sculpt the cave… the rumble of the ocean surf outside… the rush of water being sucked through the tunnels and being slapped against the cave walls. We could feel and smell the cool, damp, salt-laden air rushing in through the cave tunnels. Magnificent and an amazing way to start the day.
While there we checked out the Maingon Bay Lookout with great views of the sea cliffs, where apparently you can often see surfers in the waves far below you. Wild!
Then we joined our unforgettable three hour Wilderness boat tour along the spectacular coastline between Port Arthur and Eaglehawk Neck through potentially one of the roughest bodies of water in the world.
Our captain Kane was interesting, informative and amusing giving commentary as we gazed in awe at the stunning coastal seascapes. Donned in our bright red ankle length raincoats…
… we set out with a group of three boats and travelled beneath the highest vertical sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere at Cape Pillar…
… explored off-shore islands…
… spectacular archways…
Tasman Arch that we walked to yesterday as seen from the sea
… deep sea caves and fluted rock formations and platforms…
getting up close to the most iconic of which are the candlestick and totem pole at Cape Huay.
We even saw the waterfall we had walked to yesterday at Waterfall Bay from below.
Incredible photo opportunities were everywhere but the pictures could never show the breath-taking wild magnificence of that rugged coastline. We were constantly enthralled at the beauty, power and might of the southern ocean.
But if that wasn’t enough, we were also blessed to see migrating humpback whales including a calf, a large pod of dolphins that just decided to hang out with the boat for a while, rare sea birds like the Wilson Storm Petrel and the albatross wheeling on the wind (did you know that they can fly for five years without ever touching land- amazing!) and lots of playful seals. The water was the most amazing deep turquoise colour and so crystal clear that you could see below the surface.
Could be a seagull- but actually a rare large amazing albatross
What an unbelievably memorable experience. So blessed!
I almost feel like I should do the second half of our day in a separate blog, as very soon our euphoria from the amazing morning left us as we visited Port Arthur. It’s hard to comprehend how a place of such beauty could have been the scene of our worst ever non-wartime massacre in recent times and Australia’s harshest and most brutal penal settlement. Only the worst of the worst were sent to Port Arthur, and while the conditions were unthinkable you can’t help but admire the stunning harbour, lush green lawns and intricate Georgian architecture throughout the sprawling grounds. It’s a fascinating, well-preserved site exploring the early convict history of Australia but we felt a real heaviness in our spirits and with one of our party unwell, were actually quite happy to leave.
And I think to myself what a wonderful world 