The moment my legs begin to move, my thoughts begin to flow.” ~ Henry David Thoreau
Day 20
It is our second last day today and the last of the Variante Espiritual. Leaving Vilanova de Arousa was definitely a change because it was by boat.
The route that the boat follows is called the Translatio and to understand its significance, you first must understand the significance of this portion of the Camino Portuguese, known as the spiritual variant. After Christ was killed, the apostle James travelled to the Iberian peninsula to try to convert the muslim Moors to Christianity. He wasn’t terribly successful and he converted only a few people, yet when he returned to Jerusalem with two of his disciples, he was tortured and killed. James disciples then returned his body to Spain in AD44. When the boat carrying the remains reached the coast of north western Spain, it travelled up the Ulla river, and the body was taken ashore near the current city of Padron. The body was then transferred to a wagon and taken to the place where the city of Santiago de Compostela now is located. It was buried and centuries later, a cathedral was built on the site of the grave.
Apparently there are 17 stone crosses along the river banks indicating the route.
The captain pointed out some of them as well as other points of interest like the Torres do Oeste watchtower ruins which are the only remains of a 12th century castle…
… and the mussel farms which are big business in the area.
The scenery is beautiful and very peaceful and the boat journey had an almost meditative effect on me.
And with my cross obsession, it definitely can be described as a highlight of the Portuguese route. I also met my hero of the day… the gorgeous Gigi Tree. Gigi is 71 and is doing the Camino on a little scooter… not only ‘doing the Camino’… it is her 60th Camino and the tenth time on the Spiritual Variant… her favourite route. We bonded over coloured hair and I just loved her vitality and passion. She has her own YouTube channel The Perpetual Pilgrim and is also an author and musician. What an inspiration.
Reaching our final destination of Pontecesures, just south of Padron, we’d covered a total of 27km in less than 90 minutes. If only every day was this easy! We walked over an old bridge… into Padron…
… the town known for the traditional dish called Padron Peppers… simply peppers that have been fried in olive oil until their skin blisters and then seasoned with salt… which is literally in every menu that we see (although it is seasonal)… walking along a wide, sycamore tree-lined avenue with the Igrexa de Santiago Apostolo de Padron at one end. The church is another which is dedicated to St James. When his body was brought back to Spain by boat it was moored to a Roman altar stone called a pedron which, not only gave Padron its name, but is now located under the main altar of the church.
Just across the Santiago bridge from the church is a 16th century fountain. At the top is a carving of Queen Lupa being baptised by St James, while underneath you can see the boat transporting his body.
We then walked up to the Convento del Carme which used to belong to the barefoot Carmelites. It was not open but had a spectacular view over Padron.
Up some steep steps (125 in total) is the Santiaguiño do Monte where St James would preach from the rocks.
There’s a statue of St James here as well as a chapel and fountain that I used to refill my waterbottle. In the 16th century pilgrims would climb the rocks on their knees praying on each of the steps so I can’t really grumble about simply walking up them with my pack on my back… except it was hot!
We decided we may as well have lunch before setting off on our walk as we never know what facilities are available as we walk into each day. So we head back to the lovely shaded tree lined avenue we had walked down earlier and had some very average food before setting off.
It is a short walking day again today and we are thankful because we don’t actually begin walking until 1pm and it is 33° and still rising. And it was tough… with lots of walking near to the busy main road and very little shade. There were some pretty parts as the path goes through small country lanes and stone villages.
But mostly it was just hot and horrible. Drinking water was running out when we came upon a water source that have often been a welcome relief as we journey… whether to fill our bottles or to splash our faces and bodies with cool water.
There has likely been hundreds of these that we have passed in the last few weeks… some are clearly springs that have been used by locals and pilgrims for hundreds of years… and I wonder how many others have given thanks for the gift of fresh cool water over the centuries.
As we are getting closer we sit on a rock in the shade and I put the details for our nightly accomodation into Maps. This is when I realise that our booked accommodation, though it says it’s in Cruces, is actually an hour away by car and not where we thought it was at all. There is no way this can work so I quickly get back onto Bookings.com to find an alternative. The amazing advantages of modern technology.
We arrive and find a beautiful church right next door to our hotel…
But more exciting is the discovery that there is a pool… which for an over heated and over tired pilgrim is like heaven on earth. Except I don’t have my togs with me as our main packs have been sent ahead to Santiago. Too bad and I head down anyway and swim in my tank top and undies. It was simply wonderfully refreshing and revitalising.
Tomorrow is the big day… our arrival into Santiago de Compostela and I know I will have very mixed feelings when we get there. And I know I will be hot and exhausted- 19km to walk and another 34° day coming up.
Steps today- 19,287
Kilometres today- 13.09
Flights climbed- 20
Temperature- 34°
And I think to myself what a wonderful world 