Today was perhaps not our best day… or at least not the first half. I had planned to visit the Tile Museum (I know it sounds super boring, but there nothing boring about the Azulejo tiles of Portugal) but turns out it’s closed on Mondays. So we decide to head to a small town about one and a half hours from Lisbon. I book our bus tickets, google where the bus leaves from and we begin our walk there picking up a little breakfast pastel de nata on the way. Of course no walk is easy in Lisbon and we have our now expected cardio session on the hills and stairs of Lisbon. When we finally get to our destination, we find it is not where we need to be and is in fact a long way from it. We decide to call a Bolt (Uber) as it is the only way we could possibly make our bus on time, only it literally gets cancelled on us about 15 times. Frustrated, I quickly go back online and cancel our tickets, booking a later bus and eventually a driver arrives and gets us to the other side of the city. So much wasted time which means that we are only going to arrive at our destination after 2pm which gives a very small exploration window. Oh well- that’s how it goes sometimes.
Nazare is known worldwide for its record-breaking monster waves ridden by professional surfers (sadly not to be seen at this time of year) and holds the record for the largest wave ever surfed in the world- over 80feet.
Not my picture- it’s from Google as there were no waves today
This little beach town remains a quintessential fishing village and as we wandered along the beach I noticed one of the many remnants of its fishing days… a series of colourful fishing boats that take pride of place on the sand by the promenade. Each has a distinctive paint job, but all bear the name “Nazaré”. Cute.
We eventually hopped on the funicular that since the late 19th century has connected the lower town (in the centre by the beach) with the clifftop SítioDistrict. As we ascended, we enjoyed stunning panoramic views of the Atlantic and the town below.
Almost immediately after exiting the funicular, we arrived at Mirador del Suberco which offers more sweeping views of the terracotta roofs of the city and coastline below.
There was a nice looking restaurant/bar that seemed perfect for a little wine but we thought that with so little time, it wasn’t our priority. At least not yet. A few vendors hawked their tourist nicnacs, drinks and snacks and we passed a cute little shop with surfing memorabilia and art and craft.
And then on the edge of the mirador we saw the chapel of Our Lady of Nazare (also known as the Chapel of the Miracles Memory) which is actually what had brought me here.
I had seen some pictures of the tiny chapel and I’d been obsessed with it ever since. I’m sure many people would think I am crazy to spend all day to get to a little chapel that literally takes two minutes to visit but that’s the travel crazy in me 🤷🏼♀️.
This tiny chapel is packed with history and religious significance with an intriguing legend about the Virgin Mary saving a nobleman from a fatal fall. It is also stunning! The interior azulejo tiles had me awestruck and stepping inside truly felt like being hugged by history.
The 14th century Sanctuary of Our Lady of Nazare was our next stop… a typical Portuguese church…
… with a beautiful wooden ceiling and extraordinary decorations…
also housing a statue of Mary breastfeeding baby Jesus. This wooden statue is traditionally from the 1st century and is believed to have been carved by St. Joseph and painted by St. Luke. It also had extraordinary azulejo tile work like the tiny chapel visited earlier.
There was more to see but time was already moving on so we decided to stop by the restaurant seen earlier for a drink and a nibble… no such luck as it was just closing. So we headed back down the funicular and found a little bar on the beach where we could soak up the laid-back, beachy energy and have a wine and cheese platter before our bus journey home.
I always love Europe… the history, culture, Medieval castles, charming cobblestone villages, amazing churches, captivating cities, idyllic scenery and golden beaches, fantastic food and plentiful wine. But I’ve never been to Portugal… until now. And I’m thrilled … and looking forward to the whitewashed walls, narrow laneways and seemingly endless blue skies of summertime Portugal… one of the sunniest countries in Europe, with over 3000 hours of sunshine per year on average. Sounds like heaven!
We’re starting in Lisbon- one of the world’s most scenic capital. I have heard so many good things about this place and I love it at first sight. Seven iconic hills overlook its postcard-perfect panorama of cobbled alleyways, stunning red roof vistas, white-domed cathedrals and grand civic squares- a captivating scene built over centuries. And it’s not just a city… it’s a feeling. It’s the sound of the trams rattling through the narrow streets…
… that first bite of a warm pastel de nata (Portuguese custard tart to you)… the golden light reflecting off the Tagus River…
…the charm of old buildings and their stunning azuelo tiles with endless stories to tell… be still my beating heart.
But I’m not entirely sure if that beating heart is my excitement… or all those bloody hills… and stairs. They really are no joke and make a 10-minute walk in Google maps feel like you’re trekking Mt Everest. It’s a long way to the top and I’m feeling every step! Especially dragging our bags in the heat on arrival as our Bolt (Uber) couldn’t drive into the area we are staying as the streets are too narrow and there are too many stairs. But I guess it is good training for our upcoming Camino hike and I know that the best way to really get to know any city is to walk it… its quiet side streets and cute corridors…
… and to the many spectacular miradouros (viewpoints to you). And Oh my goodness, the views everywhere make it all worthwhile… terracotta roofs, many churches and cathedrals, all the way to the Tagus River.
Sunrises. Sunsets.
And I’ve always been a sucker for a beautiful view. Especially with a glass of wine in hand.
We are staying in Alfama- one of the oldest and cutest parts of the city, which really is maze-like… with lots of pedestrian stairways and steep, narrow cobblestone alleyways, tons of small neighbourhood cafes…
… and lovely restaurants, grocery stores, and whitewashed houses decorated with the most gorgeous tiles, wrought-iron balconies and laundry strung from the windows and window sills dripping with bright flowers.
How could we not fall in love with it and its village atmosphere and local vibes without the tourist gloss. And luckily, Google Maps has it pretty much all figured out as directions have never really been my forte! Thank God for that technology that is now so easily accessible.
From the moment we were dropped off by our Bolt, it was obvious something was going on in the the narrow alleyways we were dragging our suitcases through. I eventually googled to find that for the entire month of June, Lisbon celebrates its biggest festival in honour of the city’s patron saint, Saint Anthony (also somehow known as the Lisbon Sardine Festival- not exactly sure what the relationship between the two is. Maybe Saint Anthony liked sardines 😂🤷🏼♀️). At the heart of the celebrations, Alfama’s narrow streets are the centre of the festivities… filled with colour… balconies, doorways and winding alleyways are brightened with paper garlands, lanterns and multicoloured flags. And at night the narrow streets fill with people celebrating together… drinking, dancing, music everywhere… lively street parties and the unmistakable scent of grilled sardines. Stalls pop up on street corners, serving beer, shots of ginjinha (local cherry liqueur) in chocolate cups, soft drinks, and plenty of home-cooked snacks. There are parades and apparently each year, even a big group wedding.
We walked up the many stairs to the Miradouro de Santa Luzia- one of the many viewpoints in this hilly city. Found a lovely little cafe overlooking the view and relaxed over a glass of ‘green’ wine and some regional cheese. We then wandered around the miradouro… flanked by the Church of Santa Luzia whose walls have two beautiful azulejo panels painted on them.
Pink and red roses and bougainvillea cover the entire terrace… just stunning.
And then we were off exploring the streets of Alfama before finding a tiny local restaurant, sat in tiny stools balancing on the cobbles and ate some basic but very tasty local seafood before heading off to bed
And did I mention street parties earlier? The LOUD music was still going when I woke just after 2am (thanks jet lag) and finally stopped soon after 4… I was still awake btw.
Day 2 we head to Lisbons most popular attraction… the Castelo de Sao Jorje which sits on the highest hill in Lisbon… above the beautiful Alfama district with one of the most beautiful views in Lisbon from the terrace. Only walls and courtyards remain today and we climbed up and down all the ramparts and admired the many gorgeous but very noisy peacocks.
We wander Downtown and see the main square Rossio, and took our time to appreciate the ambiance, the architecture, the beautiful Portuguese cobblestone work and the stunning jacaranda trees that frame the most iconic buildings, so reminiscent of home in the springtime.
We couldn’t miss the stunning and unique architecture of the Santa Justa lift… one of the truly unique tourist attractions of Lisbon- apparently it has an amazing view from the top, but as gorgeous views are a dime a dozen in Lisbon we couldn’t see the point of paying for one.
We continued down the bustling Rua Augusta to the gates of the city… the stunning Arch of Rua Augusta that was built to commemorate Lisbon’s triumph over the 1755 earthquake.
Through the arches is the Praca do Comercio… Lisbon’s most beautiful square and was once the site of Lisbon’s Royal Palace. Rebuilt after the earthquake, today, three sides of the square are surrounded by earthquake-resistant buildings. They are yellow and white and flaunt the most beautiful arches.
We strolled Chiado’s staircases and alleyways that showcase the quintessential charm of Lisbon.
Nestled in the historic district, it is known for its quaint houses with colourful tiled facades adorned with blooming flowers…
… and vibrant street art…
… and a tranquility away from the bustling more touristy city hotspots. More sweeping views of the city, including the iconic rooftops and the mesmerising Tagus River. The atmosphere was alive with the sounds of locals and the faint strumming of traditional fado music in nearby cafes, providing a taste of Portuguese culture. We tried to stop for lunch in a little restaurant that looked cute and authentic but they had even shut off their waiting list.
We climbed the steep cobblestone streets of bohemian Bairro Alto to visit the lavish Sao Roque Church and take in more stunning Lisbon views.
Have I mentioned the stairs of Lisbon? It is seriously like a never ending staircase. Just when you think you have finally arrived at the top, you turn the corner and there are more stairs as far as you can see. Today we did 19,678 steps and it feels like every one of those was an actual stair!
Apparently after sundown, a diverse crowd fill the hip, quirky bars in this area, while the evocative sound of Fado music is heard from traditional restaurants and we thought we may come back after our Food and Wine tour that we had booked (didn’t happen). But it’s still in the plan before we leave.
We meet back at the jacaranda square for our Lisbon foodie tour of the vibrant neighbourhoods of Baixa and Chaido where we explored family run eateries, historic cafes, and specialty shops that have helped to shape the cities culinary identity… gaining a deeper understanding of the city’s culinary traditions, history and the stories of the people who keep these traditions alive.
We strolled through the lively streets and paused at no-frills local spots and bustling bars for more food and drink that we could possibly finish… red wine, green wine, port wine, beer, local cheese and barbecued chorizo, salt cod rice, bifana and more that I can’t even remember. We finished with a shot of ginjinha, the city’s beloved sour cherry liqueur…
… on the street before stumbling home for a very early night of well earned and much needed sleep.
And I think to myself what a wonderful world 