Tag: #portugal

Lakes of Fire

July 13th, 2025

I have to admit that I don’t really love the town we are staying in- but I guess it was never about the town… it’s just a base. And there is beauty everywhere and I do really love the unique patterns mosaiced into the narrow streets’ cobbled pavements and city squares here in Ponta Delgada (CalçadaPortuguesa)… with every street a different pattern. So cool.

And even though there are some colourful houses,

… it does feel like a very black and white town, albeit with a lot of lovely bright flowers decorating the gardens and balcony’s.

A lot of the churches and buildings are traditional white with black volcanic basalt rock accents on the edges, which is very characteristic for Portugal… and certainly for the Azores… all very black and white.

We had a couple of rest days and found there was very little to do once we had walked around the town… and the weather wasn’t great. Wandered the botanical gardens which was lovely for me, including a couple of amazing Australian Moreton Bay Figs.

Climbed the town hall tower for a view over the town…

… checked out a few local churches…

… but there really wasn’t a lot to occupy our time. I booked a hiking tour which was disappointingly cancelled… and I think we could have cut this visit short.. or maybe visited another island in the group… but that’s all very well in hindsight.

We did have an amazing second day of touring around the island- this time the Wild West side. We stopped at an organic pineapple farm grown in greenhouses (not particularly interesting)… and drove through endless kilometres of huge hydrangea bushes lining the roads and hillsides, at times well above the height of the car… sometimes combined with lilies, agapanthus and azaleas. These stunning flowers flow like poetry between cliffs and clouds… painting the island in shades of blue, lilac, white and purple, creating magical scenery at every turn. A paradise in bloom. Simply mind bogglingly spectacular even if they arent in full bloom! I tried to video but we were driving too fast and it’s just a blur.

And then we arrive at the view that I had been wanting to see since I first saw pictures in social media years ago… the Vista do Rei viewpoint over Sete Cidades… probably the most photographed of the whole island group.

It looks like there are two lakes… one green and the other blue. But the lake is actually shaped like an eight and so it only seems like there is two lakes. The clearly visible difference in colour is caused by the strong growth of algae on one part of the lake which makes it look green. And then the masses of hydrangeas framing the view are just extraordinary. Have you ever seen a more spectacular view?

We were so blessed to have a beautiful day as the colour difference is apparently only obvious in the sunlight. We were booked for this tour a couple of days ago and postponed due to rain when it was likely there would have been no view at all.

This is also the start of the hike I had booked that goes along the crater rim, then down the slopes into the crater of the dormant volcano, ending in the town of Sete Cidades. This hike apparently gives great views of the interior of the crater, letting you experience the Sete Cidades in a deeper way than driving to the viewpoints… very disappointing but alas, it was not to be.

Not far away, we visited another stunning lake- the secluded and seemingly inaccessible Lagoa de Santiago, nestled inside its own volcanic crater… with its high banks, lush vegetation, and uniquely green waters, offering a grandeur like no other.

We passed some beautiful coastal vistas…

… and stopped at a popular volcanic beach…

… before heading to Caldeira do Velha- a natural paradise with thermal pools of differing temperatures (between 25-38°)… far more appealing than the Terra Nostra Park we visited a couple of days ago. On the slope of Volcano Água de Pau, which has been inactive since the 16th century, the volcano still emits intense internal energy that heats the waters of the thermal pools in this natural park.

Iron-rich waters, sulfur smell, huge tree ferns and other exotic vegetation and birdsong define this place, which was really beautiful and very inviting. The largest and deepest pool, even has a waterfall that adds an even wilder touch to the environment.

Our final stop for the day was to our guide’s favourite lake… and the highest on the island. Lagoa de Fogo is a beautiful crater lake translated meaning “lake of Fire” and is located in a strato-volcanic complex in the centre of the island. Looking up into the hills, we once again weren’t sure if there would be any view at all as this place, more than any other is often covered by clouds. And it didn’t look promising… but while the clouds did float in and out, we still managed to get a wonderful glimpse of this stunning lake.

And so, we say goodbye to our insanely green hydrangea paradise with its stunning lakes and volcanoes, and fly back to Lisbon late in the evening. We arrive back at the same lovely little boutique hotel we stayed at before flying to the Azores… to a bottle of champagne waiting in our room as they knew it was Anne’s birthday tomorrow. So we sat on our bed, ate in our room and drank champagne while watching Portuguese tv… the first time we had put it on since our arrival 6 weeks ago.

The next day we had planned to celebrate Anne’s birthday at a lovely little rustic restaurant I had found on social media… in the middle of nowhere, with a fantastic view over the Atlantic Ocean. We hopped in a Bolt and then spent several relaxing hours in a very bohemian place built around an old moinho (mill) with several terraces outside where you can enjoy the views in an extremely welcoming atmosphere… eating delicious food and drinking wine.

And so, after 7 weeks, it is time to head home to real life… and as much as I love to travel, that’s always a comforting thing. Of course, I’m already planning my next trip… a part of which scares me a little as it will test this ageing but capable body once again. But I was a little anxious about how I’d go on the Camino walking 300 kilometres and it turned out to be wonderful… so I have to believe the next adventure will be too. You only get one opportunity at life to take chances and have adventures, and to make all those wonderful memories. And I think if you do something scary today you get more inspired to try more things in life… but if you do nothing today, tomorrow will be exactly the same.

So my hope and prayer is that we all be ever more entangled… aware of the breadth of life… and amazed by the wonders… all around us. Love life! Embrace aging. It’s not age that is to be feared: it’s losing your appetite for wonder and joy. And we do live in such a wonderful world…

Here’s to the next journey, whatever it may be!
Hydrangea Heaven

July 8th, 2025

“I must have flowers, always, and always.” ~ Claude Monet

Of everywhere we planned to visit on this journey, this was the place I’d been waiting for… a dream come true. One of those places I’d seen pictures of in social media but thought I’d never see in real life. An exotic place… no one I know has been here… and I love the road a little less travelled. The Azores… a perfect way to end this wonderful adventure.

The Azores is a stunning off-the-beaten-path destination- sometimes dubbed “Iceland without the ice”. Now I haven’t actually been to Iceland (it is on the list though) so I can’t really comment, but I think maybe it is unlike anywhere else in the world. A collection of nine islands in the Mid-Atlantic Ocean, and we are staying on the largest island Sao Miguel. Its not a typical sun-and-sand vacation island like the Maldives… due to the climate (unlike Portugal proper that has around 300 sunny days a year, the Azores has more like 300 rainy days a year) and there are relatively few beaches anyway. But this insanely green island’s allure lies in its volcanic geography, with epic viewpoints, volcanic craters, lakes, natural thermal pools, meandering coastal roads, traditional fishing towns, whale watching, fresh seafood… and its lack of mass tourism. Sounds like paradise. And of course, there are hiking trails. Haven’t I done enough hiking, you ask? Never enough! And I’m definitely drawn to the wild spaces… so I think there will be hiking.

This unspoiled island is also filled with an extraordinary show of wild hydrangea blooms, adding to its already picturesque natural landscapes. And anyone who knows me knows that I am an Anthophile… a person who deeply loves flowers. Especially if there’s masses of them… and we were, in theory here for the peak season. These flowers are a very big part of my reason for choosing this place.

Not my photo- but shows the prolific hydrangea bloom at its peak on the island… and what I was expecting to see everywhere

So you can imagine my disappointment when I asked the tour guide about the hydrangeas as we began our day, and she said they weren’t really blooming because there had been no summer yet. As we had found throughout this trip, besides a few really hot days, the weather has been very cool (yep- that means we’ve had all the wrong clothes 🤷🏼‍♀️).

We hit the road towards the eastern half of the island and stopped at a beautiful organic tea plantation.

The Azores have the only tea plantations in Europe and I took a leisurely stroll through their fields and enjoyed their panoramic views and we had a cup of one of their teas. I also discovered that when our tour guide had said that the hydrangeas were not blooming… that was a very relative statement.

On my reckoning, they were everywhere… lining the roads and even used as hedging between properties and paddocks… just not in full bloom… and I was still pretty much in seventh heaven for much of the day.

We headed to Ribeira dos Caldeirões Natural Park… renowned for its gorgeous waterfall… and yes… it was surrounded by hydrangeas.

There was a model or influencer draped all over the rocks for a while and I am thankful for the new ‘clean-up’ function on my iPhone that can remove annoying people from my pictures. Technology is amazing!

I went for a quick wander among the stunningly beautiful lush vegetation in all shades of green… huge trees… all kinds of ferns including large tree ferns, and big bushes of hydrangeas… and endangered birds. It felt like a rainforest and I would have loved more time to wander more but there was so much to be packed into today that we had to move on.

There was also a beautiful garden with five 16th-century watermills and more waterfalls.

We headed towards the Furnas valley to experience its dramatic volcanic landscape and stopped at the stunning Miradouro Pico do Ferro for a panoramic view of the valley. The Furnas volcano is an active but dormant stratovolcano and encompasses a volcanic lake, Lagos das Furnas, surrounded by the steep peaks of the ancient mountains and its lush green rim. In fact the whole town is inside the volcano. Our guide was not sure if we would be able to see anything due to the iffy weather and while it certainly was not completely clear, we did have incredible views of the crater lake.

And then it was lunchtime and we enjoyed Furnas stew or Cozido, which is a traditional Azorean stew that has been cooked on the island for hundreds of years, in the volcanic soil of Furnas. The ingredients are placed in a pot and cooked underground using geothermal heat. The stew included all different meats and vegetables and was very tender and quite delicious.

As already mentioned, the village of Furnas is located within the caldera… and although the Furnas volcano last erupted in 1630, you can feel, see, and smell the geothermal activity all around you in the form of steaming fumaroles, thermal pools, and natural mineral springs around every corner.

And our next stop was to one of its thermal springs for which the town is well known. People come for thermal baths and to drink the many different kinds of mineral waters, each with different chemical compositions and tastes and a warm, iron rich stream runs through the town. Volcanic mud is also used for relaxing therapies but we had only time for a relaxing soak in the warm but kind of yucky-brown water of the gorgeous Terra Nostra Park.

As the center of São Miguel’s unique geothermal activity, we visited two active volcanic sites to see the fumarole fields, thermal and mineral waters, and boiling caldeiras in action.

It’s really kind of strange to see the water coming directly from the ground boiling so vigorously and apparently there have even been deaths from people falling into the water.

Our last stop was to vila Franca do Campo to see the little island paradise off its coast that it is well known for. You used to be able to go to the island, climb its hills and swim in its perfectly round shaped natural pool, but it is now a protected area due to its high levels of biodiversity. They still do little boat tours out there but you can’t get off the boat so I didn’t think that would really be worthwhile.

Photo care of Google- what the cute little island looks like from above.

Big but fantastic day with so many stops and oh, so much beauty… we came home and didn’t even venture out again for dinner.
“We, the bones that are here, for yours wait.”

July 6th, 2025

Much of a day on a bus and we are briefly back in Lisbon, staying in an area not far from Alfama where we were a few weeks back, but very different. We appreciate that there appears to be no stairs or hills although we haven’t ventured far. The one similarity is the beautiful azulejo tiles that once again surround us… and the loud music and noise that went well into the night.

I had heard about a stunning medieval city… which was also a UNESCO site, and a bit of a hidden treasure in the heart of the rural Alentejo region… so I thought it sounded like my kind of place. Hopped on a train and travelled through countryside very different from what we have experienced in the last few weeks. It is hot and dry and due to its position, this area is one of Portugal’s hottest places. The landscape is full of olive groves, wide-open plains, and traditional stone villages. Although there were still plenty of vineyards as the Alentejo region is famous for its rustic wineries and delicious wine.

I love the feeling of history that hangs over so many beautiful towns in Europe… we just don’t have that back home… and Évora is one of those places. It has over 2000 years of history that goes back as far as the Romans and includes Moorish and Portuguese heritage… and it is one of Portugal’s most beautifully preserved medieval towns. Inside the 14th-century walls it has all the quintessential beauty…

… narrow, winding lanes leading to striking monuments, including an elaborate medieval cathedral and cloisters… Roman ruins… whitewash houses… historic sights… the azulejo tiles and the balconies and a picturesque town square that was apparently once the site of some rather gruesome episodes courtesy of the Inquisition. And of course cobbles. And not just any cobbles. I once said, “the worse the cobbles, the better the town”… well these were real cobbly cobbles. No nicely cut squares or flat slate or marble… but all stones of very different shapes and sizes… very difficult to walk on. But what an enchanting place.

I came across the Roman temple of Diana by accident … you sort of can’t miss it right next to the cathedral, where I was headed. And I wandered over to the Jardim Diana just opposite with a great view out over the rooftops.

And then, the gothic cathedral that looks more like a fairytale castle, with its turrets and towers… and is the largest medieval cathedral in the country. It looked to me like it belonged in Sintra or somewhere like that… but there was no tourists. Seriously there were not many people in the town at all which makes me love it all the more… the rhythm is slow here… an oasis of calm without the tourist hoardes.

I climbed up the tower via a tiny narrow stone spiral staircase to the rooftop and seriously breathe-taking views over the countryside as far as you can see… vast plains and rolling hills with sparse white-washed houses and small farms, vineyards, olive trees, cork forests and cultivated land.

Back down the stairs to the lovely serene interior… home to beautiful art, cloisters and orange trees… and the church itself.

Very close by I wandered into the Palácio Duques de Cadaval with its stunning garden restaurant and art museum that happened to be exhibiting Australian indigenous art.

And then the igreja de São João Evangelista which stands out for the magnificent tile panels that cover the walls.

I wandered the patchwork of narrow cobblestoned streets in the ancient walled city… full of lovely old whitewashed houses with the Évora trademark yellow trim…

… to the main square Praça do Giraldo…

… and passed restaurants and local shops selling regional delicacies, handmade traditional pottery, local wines, and lots of local cork handicrafts.

Apparently the streets have some pretty outlandish names if I understood Portuguese, like the “Alley Of The Unshaven Man” and the “Street Of The Countess’s Tailor”.

Next stop, the Capela dos Ossos may be Évora’s most famous landmark and is a hauntingly beautiful and eerie site. Constructed in the 17th century by Franciscan monks, the chapel serves as a haunting reminder of the transient nature of human life.

Its walls are intricately adorned with the bones and skulls of approx 5000 souls artfully arranged by Franciscan monks to symbolize our mortality. A definite touch of the macabre.

Above the chapel’s entrance, an ominous inscription reads “Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,” which translates to “We, the bones that are here, for yours wait.”

It was getting late and I was very hot so I headed back up the hill to a little restaurant I had noticed earlier… off the street and very shady and sat relaxing with a glass of wine, food and a fan that constantly sprayed me with water. Just what I needed… until it was time to catch the train back.
The Camino always provides

June 18th, 2025

“Walking is a man’s best medicine”- Hippocrates (ancient Greek physician)

Day 6 and 7

And today I needed medicine. Yesterday afternoon I started with tummy cramps and the resulting many visits to the bathroom overnight does not bode well for a long walk… but we head off as usual… a little earlier actually as today is going to be hot.

We say good bye to our beautiful friends Constance and Matthew… though we have bumped into them so many times, this may be the last time as we are having a rest day once we reach Ponte de Lima whereas they will continue on their journey. It has been so lovely connecting with this couple over the last few days.

We pass a tiny church and then, leaving Balugães behind, walk through vineyards and lush green countryside.

Our destination today is Ponte de Lima… an ancient little town along the Lima river. It is a beautiful day on the Camino… peaceful and quiet… passing vineyards, orchards, pretty homes with beautiful gardens that are a riot of spring flowers…

… with the last of the springtime wisteria still blooming. The sun is shining and the birds are singing. Walking along a mixture of dirt tracks, cobbled paths and, occasionally, some paved roads, we really enjoy the morning although there is a little more climbing than in previous days and the sun is hot. I am using the walking sticks as it was a challenging route for much of the day.

We miss an arrow but very quickly realise when we come to a T with no arrow and I check my app which shows it was only a few metres back. Constantly looking for arrows to keep us in track.

More cornfields… always more cornfields… and grapevines. At one stage we pass a literal wall of jasmine that just keeps going and the beautiful fragrance lingers.

I notice monuments to those walking the Camino- from tile depictions to scallop shells hanging from a post above the roadway as a form of greeting to those who pass below it.

The powerful and protective symbol of the Ways to Compostela, the scallop shell has its beginning according to tradition in the sandy beaches we have already passed on our first few days walking. It represents pilgrimage, guidance, and spiritual transformation. It signifies the journey, with its lines converging towards Santiago de Compostela, and symbolizes the interconnectedness of pilgrims. Historically, it served as a practical tool for pilgrims to eat and drink, and has become a widely recognized emblem of the Camino, used on markers and worn by pilgrims. We have one hanging on our packs.

It is very quiet today and we don’t come across many pilgrims although as we rest beside a church an Australian passes and stops for a chat. Deb from Melbourne on her second Camino, walked 37 km yesterday. Wow! When I hear things like this it can make me feel a bit pathetic when I’m struggling to walk 18km. But comparison is the thief of joy and I have to be grateful that my body is allowing me to do this at all.

The rest of our walk took us through more lovely countryside and small villages where there were more shrines at frequent intervals along the way. Some are decorated with colourful ribbons, prayer cards, a pair of boots, signs, a small stuffed animal, shells, statues, flowers, photos, a rosary, bits of this and that.

At one point, walking over a pass between valleys, we came upon what can only be described as a Fairy Glen; on the lefthand side, the forest filled with wild calla lilies…

… on the righthand side the orange-yellow trumpets flowers you see in the picture below, faces turned down towards us. It was magical, and refreshing, and unphotographable.

Quiet paths, byways and cobbled tracks, peaceful landscapes, woodlands, vineyards and quaint Portuguese villages with rich histories and legends.

There were sections where trees provide some shade, but others where the sun was beating straight down on us and as the day went on and got hotter, it became more and more difficult. And we ran out of water. There had been no bathrooms, no shops, no cafes or bars at all today… and suddenly… like an oasis in the desert, there was an esky outside someone’s home with bottles of water and a donation tin.

We couldn’t have been more grateful and gulped that precious liquid before making our last push towards Ponte de Lima.

The Camino always provides.

At one point we were under a grapevine arbour walkway and of course, more cobblestones. And then… an ethereal entry to Ponte as elegantly arching sycamore trees made a stunning sun-dappled veil overhead like a shimmering illusion. To overheated exhausted pilgrims, it was so welcome. There was a huge market under the trees along the river and we walked through the middle, not even looking, just wanting to get to our hotel as quickly as possible.

We could see in the distance the famous Roman bridge from which the town gets its name.

The oldest village in Portugal, Ponte de Lima, turned out to be just lovely… after showers and rest. And we have a great view from our room.

Full of character and charm…

… the town sits on the slow-flowing Lima River, and has been the primary river crossing since the Romans constructed a bridge here in 1AD. The age of the town is reflected in a delightful assortment of medieval houses, pretty plazas and ancient religious buildings throughout the town… and it has stunning natural scenery, which all together creates a wonderful little town.

We make ourselves presentable and go out for a wine. We google restaurants nearby and read the reviews and decide on a little tapas place. When we put it into google maps, we realise we are already sitting in it having our wine.

So we stay for dinner and head home for bed. It is nearly sunset and we aren’t usually around at this time, so I leave Anne to go to bed and go out to watch the sunset- nothing spectacular but such a pretty place.

I also decide to get up soon after sunrise. I knew it would take a while for the suns rays to actually come over the town and hit the gorgeous old bridge- just beautiful.

We have a rest day today, planned months ago for practical reasons… but another little blessing of the Camino as today is forecast to be around 37° and I would hate to have been walking in that heat… yesterday at 34° was bad enough. We spend the day resting and doing chores- washing clothes✔️…bank ✔️… send parcel home to lighten my main pack✔️… chemist for more nurofen, chapstick and something for my hikers rash (yes it’s a real thing)✔️

And I do a little exploring through the town and visit some of the churches.

I’m actually disappointed to be leaving this town tomorrow. Preparations are being made everywhere for the Corpus Christi “party” that starts tomorrow night and goes into the next day. It’s actually hard to envisage this place in party mode as it is such a quiet town. But there are lights and sound systems being set up all over town and huge bars ready for copious amounts of drinks. They are testing one of the sound systems as I write. Apparently people come in from towns for miles. It’s a pity to miss it although we had plenty of music blasting in the middle of the night in Lisbon. What would have been a huge highlight would have been to see the streets of the historic center adorned with intricate floral carpets, created by residents using flowers, sawdust, and other materials. The carpets are made for the Corpus Christi procession, where the Blessed Sacrament is carried through the town.

I remember being in Guatemala for something similar and it was amazing.

Anyway, it is not possible at this stage and it’s a new adventure for us again tomorrow as we head into Spain.

Steps today- 30,328

Kilometres today- 20.39

Floors climbed- 14

Temperature- 34°

Some of the wildflowers today
Much of today actually really sucked

June 15th, 2025

Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R.Tolkien

Day 3

But we kind of were… lost, I mean. Or at least heading in the wrong direction without realising it. Much of today actually really sucked… although it started well

It was a bit of a cool blustery morning blowing off the Atlantic coast as we set off from our wonderful guest house and said goodbye to the beautiful Ana.

We start once again along the coastal route of the Senda Litoral and the long stretches of sandy beaches remind me in many ways of some of the beaches at home.

Our plan is to move inland at Vila do Conde and meet the Central Route of the Portuguese Camino, which we will continue on for a few days for a different sort of experience… but that comes later in the day. For now it is all gorgeous coastline.

The first stretch was lovely- a brand new boardwalk through an eco reserve where once again we were surrounded by wildflowers of many varieties… the sounds of nesting birds (I think under the boardwalk where we walked) and croaking frogs.

A few small areas of the boardwalks were covered in sand which wasn’t the easiest to walk on but thankfully those stretches were very short.

We passed a few pilgrims with the “Bom Caminho” regular greeting and plenty of local runners and dog walkers

Turning inland briefly there were cobbles, which are hard on the feet and legs but by now we should be pretty used to them after Lisbon, Sintra and Porto. And I do love cobblestones. Sadly my ankles don’t and where I thought my crappy knee would be the issue… or even my hips, it is the crappy ankles that are causing me grief. Oh well- it is what it is.

Before long we were crossing the bridge over the Rio Ave to Vila do Conde. This town is one of the oldest settlements in Portugal with evidence of human habitation as early as 100,000 years ago. Theres also a striking 17th century aqueduct…

… and a host of old churches and buldings from the 16th and 17th centuries and Ana had suggested we check out the old monastery with its great view over the town and river…

and Igreja de São João Batista which we did.

We wandered a little around the vibrant town…

From here we could have continued on the Coastal route but this is where we planned to turn off and continue on the Central route towards Rates where we were staying tonight.

I had a few concerns about finding our way to the central route today as I had read that the markers weren’t great and knowing me, we’d get lost. Directions are certainly not my strongest talent. But in hindsight, I wish I had followed my gut and Google maps as my Camino Ninja App doesn’t seem to switch between routes. Anyway, we ended up following the shells and walked and walked and nothing seemed to really change. By now I was expecting to be walking in the beautiful Portuguese countryside where wildflowers grew in the meadows, cala lilies flourished in big clumps under grape vines and every town or village seemed to have an ornately patterned chapel. This is what I had read about today’s journey but it just wasn’t happening. Eventually I checked google maps just to see where we were and realised we had been following the waymarkers for the Senda Littoral or coastal route where we were meant to have turned off. We are now an hour past the turn off and it’s no point going back so I just resort to google maps to find our way to Rates.

I am so angry with myself for not following my intuition and am in a VERY bad mood. Not only have we added several kilometres to an already long day but we have replaced the beautiful rural villages we were supposed to walk through with seemingly unending suburbs, industrial areas and fairly major roads with lots of traffic… with nowhere to stop, nowhere to sit, and nowhere to even walk at times as there were no paths or shoulders on the sides of the roads leaving us very vulnerable and nervous. It was actually dangerous at times. And then, just to top it all off, the rain set in! I actually wanted to scream or cry.

There was some rural areas

… and we did pass some pretty shrines…

… pretty gardens with stunning hydrangeas that are prolific here… even in colours I have never seen before.

But my eyes weren’t really seeing beauty at this stage and I stomped on… and on… and on. I think the relief of peeing in a cornfield might have been the highlight of the afternoon 😂🤷🏼‍♀️.

We continued for what seemed like forever and by the time we arrive I am stumbling like a drunk old woman I am so tired and in pain.

We were booked into Casa Anabela for the night which was right on the camino and we arrive shortly before 4. Such a relief to pull off the shoes after walking 23km and have a hot shower. We ask for restaurant recommendations and find there are only three restaurants in town… one is a bar that doesn’t look like it welcomes women. We take a little time to look around the village… it’s very small so we don’t need long to explore. The historical centre had an interesting collection of buildings including a Roman church…

…. and the 18th century chapel of senhor da Praca but it is very quiet although it looks like perhaps there are preparations happening for something. We don’t think much of it and continue on to find somewhere for dinner. A while later we are happy when the lovely Constance and Matthew whom we met yesterday, wander in and end up joining us for dinner. And there was a pretty sunset.

Lovely ending to a not so lovely day.

And the preparations for the thing that we noticed earlier… whatever it was went noisily into the night including very loud fireworks at midnight.

Steps today 33,172

Kilometres today 22.45

Floors climbed 8

Temperature 22°
Eyes half shut

June 12th, 2025

Our first impressions of Porto were not super positive. Dilapidated… ruined and abandoned buildings everywhere… graffiti…

… scaffolding, scaffolding, scaffolding… complete facades of building covered… and huge areas cordoned off… making it difficult to find your way around, even in the prime tourist areas.

There is construction/reconstruction all around and so many cranes across the skyline it’s crazy… I guess at least they’re trying to improve the current situation.

And as I walked the city… I started to see the beauty… and it was everywhere. Weirdly, there’s something about delapidated building that has always appealed to me in some way… so much character… decaying beauty. And really…isn’t graffiti just street art?

And I love the authentic touches of real life like washing hanging outside the windows.

Sometimes you just have to keep your eyes half shut!

Because in many ways, Porto is painted in magic. There’s something about it that feels like stepping into a postcard… narrow cobbled streets that whisper stories of the past…

… azulejo tiles turning every corner into art…

historic baroque churches to fuel my obsession…

… terracotta roofs…

… plentiful street art…

… and café/bar-dotted plazas everywhere leading the eyes down to the Duoro river and its landmark bridges and golden sunsets… the taste of port wine making everything better… full of life, history and art. There is always music coming from somewhere: talented street musicians play guitars or other instruments and sing…

… the countless churches bells are ringing, so the music is continuous, as if we were walking around in our own musical.

As we explored Porto we noticed the eye-catching azulejo tiles decorating everything from benches, street signs and fountains to the walls of train stations, houses, churches and cathedrals. These are my new obsession… I really love this very Portuguese decoration… so individual and unique… and so gorgeous. There are even azulejos adorning huge boulders and public art in Porto.

Pretty much our first stop after arriving and dropping off our bags to our lodgings, was the fortress like Porto Cathedral (Se de Porto)… one of the city’s oldest monuments.

We bought our pilgrims passport and our symbolic shell to attach to our backpacks, ready for our upcoming Camino and got our first stamp- yay!!

We walked the beautiful cloisters decorated with intricate azulejo tiles from the 17th and 18th century, which depict scenes from the Song of Songs about the mystical dialogue between God and the Virgin, and the cathedral’s patron saint as well as scenes from Portuguese history.

The azulejos are considered some of the finest examples of this traditional Portuguese art form and they contribute to the cathedral’s rich cultural heritage.

And, as I do as someone who is afraid of heights, I headed to the roof for stunning views. From there, the panorama on the historic center, the Douro River, the Dom Luis I Bridge and the municipality of Vila Nova de Gaia is quite simply breathtaking.

Our first evening we visited the Igreja dos Clerigos for an imersive light show inside the church… so my kind of thing and completely spectacular.

Porto is a small city with MANY churches and we visited several of them to feed my obsession… particularly my new azulejo obsession. The 15th century Igrega de Santa Clara is one of Porto’s hidden treasures. Nestled in its historic heart, the church appears modest from the outside, but when we stepped inside we were enveloped by lavish baroque woodwork adorned in gleaming gold leaf. Not at all my thing but still amazing.

Much more my thing was the absolutely stunning Capela das Almas or Chapel of Souls… with its soulful beauty and vibrant facade… a stunning testament to Portuguese artistry.

This remarkable chapel, adorned with more than 15,000 striking blue and white azuelo tiles… tells a story of devotion and beauty… its walls depicting scenes from the lives of various saints, including st Francis of assisi and St Catherine. Each tile is a brushstroke in a larger masterpiece, weaving a rich tapestry of history and faith.

On our first day in Porto we came across this stunning church with a grand tile panel on its side facade. What I didn’t realise was that it was two churches side by side separated by a narrow, 1-m-wide house in the middle… known as Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Carmelitas. Pretty as a postcard.

And then there was the church of Saint Ildefonso. The 18th century church facade is covered in nearly 11,000 azulejo tiles and is considered to be one of the most important examples of Baroque architecture in Portugal. The tiles were added to the church in 1932, courtesy of the Portuguese painter Jorge Colaço. The church is a UNESCO World Heritage site and on the day we saw it the colour of the sky mirrored the blue of the azulajos perfectly.

Porto has several of “one of the most beautiful…. in the world”… if that makes any sense. It is home to “one of the most beautiful railway stations in the world”… the historic San Bento railway has one of the most famous examples of the azulejo tiles, also painted by the artist Jorge Colaço. You enter the station and there is an extraordinary soaring atrium with 20,000 tiles adorning the walls depicting Portugals history and culture. Just stunning.

We booked to visit Livraria Lello: “one of the world’s most beautiful bookstores in the world”… and yes, you have to book and pay to visit this book store. But seriously- just wow! Its stunning neo-Gothic interiors have been said to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s descriptions of Hogwarts. Pretty on the outside…

… but that doesn’t give away what’s hidden inside!

The massive staircase is one of the highlights but so spectacular all around… except for the crowds which we pretty horrific.

And of course, “the most beautiful McDonalds in the world”- with stained glass windows and many chandeliers.

In the evening, we wandered the Ribeira district (downtown Porto) below the cathedral… which is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods along the banks of the Douro River.

I really loved this area, known for its colourful, ancient houses many of which have that dilapidated look to them which adds to their charm… and a jumble of narrow streets filled with lively street cafes and bars where you can wine and dine with a gorgeous view. I thought this area could be a bit of a tourist trap for dinner, so instead we crossed the river.

To do this we used the lower level of the iconic double decker metal arch Dom Luis bridge that spans the river offering stunning views of the river and city to Villanova de Gaia.

This level is for cars and pedestrians whereas the upper level is for the metro and pedestrians. The views from either the top or the bottom are incredible, and especially when the sun goes down, the city looks even more beautiful!

There is plenty of street art around Porto and Gaia- and I’m a huge fan. There are lots of quirky pieces in and around Ribeira district from decorated electrical boxes to a huge blue cat which peeps out from a wall… not the easiest to photograph as it’s the smallest street in Porto but anyway 🤷🏼‍♀️.

After we crossed the bridge, I went looking for the 3D Half rabbit by Bordolo II whose work we had already seen in Lisbon… made of recycled materials and looming over the corner in Gaia.

We shared a cheese platter and some wine as we watched the sunset … just perfect. There’s something magical about watching the sky turn shades of gold and orange and pink over the Duoro river. The city slows down, the lights start to twinkle, and just as the sun disappears… for a moment everything feels still- just pure magic. A front row seat for natures masterpiece. No camera can really capture it or any sunset for that matter. And I’m always the girl that gets excited for a sunset.

Or a sunrise. I decided to get up early as I had been rather lazy since our arrival with my early morning walks. I headed to the Miradouro do Morro da Sé, near the Porto Cathedral, as I had googled the best place to see the sunrise… terracotta rooftops, the sound of seagulls, historic churches and the morning golden light hitting the city just right- Porto at its finest… except it wasn’t. I didn’t realise until I was out and about that it was actually quite foggy and there really wasn’t any sunrise to be seen.

I started to walk home but saw the fog was lifting and went back. Nothing spectacular but still lovely.

We visited the World Heritage Monastery of Serra do Pilar, via the top level of the bridge… with even more spectacular views over the city. We were hoping to go inside to the round church and cloisters but discovered that it is closed indefinitely due to maintenance works… still worth the climb up for the view alone.

We had a couple of memorable meals at two wonderful restaurants (The Door and Babel) with creative and delicious food… and amazing staff.

I literally think I had the most delicious thing I’ve ever eaten… foie gras cutlets on thin apple slices with port wine and red fruit reduction, almonds, ginger and lime zest. Only a mouthful but I was in raptures. Seriously.

On Sunday night quite late I could hear a lot of noise and cheering… sounded like a football match and I thought it must have been the local football club or something- I even googled if there was a local match on and it said there was (Inter Miami vs FC Porto). But the cheering got louder and louder and then it seemed like all hell broke loose. People were cheering and yelling and cars were honking their horns and then messages came though on my family chat that Portugal had just won the Nations League (whatever that is), which is apparently big news for Portugal. It certainly got a little wild and reminded me of ten years ago when I was in Barcelona with Jadey and Barca won the Champions League and there was the hugest party and ticket tape parade for the players. Just being in the right place at the right time 🤷🏼‍♀️

And so tomorrow we leave Porto for the beginning of our big Camino adventure. I must admit I leave with some trepidation of what is to come but also a great excitement in my spirit. Let the journey begin with whatever it may bring.
Alas, there was port to be drunk

June 10th, 2025

I generally don’t love tours but figured that it was really the only way I could get to the Duoro valley, especially in the available time frame… so today was the day. And we’d been really looking forward to it.

The Douro Valley is one of the most stunning areas of natural beauty in the whole of Portugal and the breathtaking landscapes have earned it a UNESCO’s World Heritage listing. It runs from Porto all the way across to the border of Spain and is the oldest wine region in the world. The Valley has a spirit of its own and is renowned for its outstanding wine culture and wine tours, the Quintas and wineries. It’s also the origin of port wine and in order for a wine to be labeled a true “port,” its grapes can only come from the Douro region.

And I think that the Douro Valley could easily be called the Enchanted Valley, because of the beauty and magic of its landscapes and I clicked away, mostly unsuccessfully, as we drove as it was all so stunning. The hilly landscape is peppered with sleepy rustic wineries…

… small villages, century old family run vineyards with hand tended terraced hillsides…

… large Quintas and scenic miradours everywhere we looked… with the Duoro river snaking through it all.

We were given the opportunity to visit two emblematic places in the Duoro, learning about the wine production methods that make valley’s wines unique in the world… and of course enjoyed partaking in a little port tasting or two… or three. We took a guided tour of the first winemaking cooperative with an expert guide and learned about the rich history of the estate and the intricate processes that have been passed down through the generations.

As a bonus, it was full of cool art.

Afterwards we sat down for a traditional lunch where the wine flowed and our glasses were never empty… maybe because apparently the Portuguese drink more wine per capita than any other country.

Then back on the bus for a very funny almost dance party sing-a-long led by our fantastic guide Ricardo… all the way to our next stop where we boarded a small boat for a few moments of relaxation along the calm waters of the Duoro river.

We wound down and took in the stunning landscapes… Quintas perched on the verdant hillsides covered in their terraces, a constant breeze working its way between the hills, the occasional rural train chugging along the riverside tracks.

The boat trip was only an hour, but we would have been happy to stay there all day. But alas, there was port to be drunk, and more of the region to explore on our Douro Valley tour.

We then followed a part of the famous ‘Miradouro da Estrada Nacional 222’ road; known as one of the world’s best drives. We were driven up a very narrow winding road with steep dropoffs down to the river… to the very top where we stopped at a vineyard for one of our tastings…

… and to see their spectacular view of the river.

From there, the birthplace of port stretched out in front of us in every direction, and the Duoro River, which had been up close and personal just moments before, was now just a glistening ribbon snaking between the slopes.

A long but wonderful day with some lovely people from all over the world… a great and really fun guide who was knowledgeable and made a huge effort to make sure everyone had a great time… food to fill the bellies and more wine than was probably wise… and the stunning landscape in every shade of green you could imagine and more.
The Portuguese Sistine Chapel

June 9th, 2025

A few years ago I came across a photo of a small church in Portugal which I thought was perhaps the most beautiful church I had ever seen. Those who know me know that I can get a little obsessive about things and this became one of those obsessions (like the tiny chapel in Nazare but worse). And today I finally saw it and it was as beautiful as I imagined. But more on that a bit later.

We decided to catch the train to Aveiro as we’d heard it called the “Venice” of Portugal and Anne had never been to Venice. And while that name may be a bit of an exaggeration, Aveiro is a charming coastal city, on the shore of a lagoon with water in its soul. And the “Venice” thing comes from the fact that the town is renowned for its network of picturesque canals that you can navigate on traditional painted gondola-style boats known as moliceiros. These were originally made to harvest seaweed from the lagoon, that was then used as fertiliser in the local sandy soils.

The canals are what give Alveiro its character and so… when in Rome (or Venice… or Aveiro) you do what everyone does and we did a little relaxing moliceiros boat tour.

Each boat is uniquely decorated and the paintings on these boats depict traditional scenes around Aveiro and on the tour, in theory, you get a good summary of the city and its history etc etc… except we could not really understand a word our guide was saying… even though he was speaking English.

Oh well, it didn’t really matter and we enjoyed a leisurely 45 minutes gliding through the canals, watching the world go by… and observing the charming Art Noveau houses in pastel shades along the quaysides in the older part of the city. We strolled along the city’s main streets and admired their pretty pastel facades… curved lines, floral motifs, decorative ironwork and intricate details all from an era when beauty and craftsmanship shaped urban design.

Forgot to mention that the railway station that we arrived at was absolutely stunning with the typically Portuguese blue and white azulejos.

We wandered around through the colourful streets full of flowers…

… and stopped for lunch in a great little street restaurant and had some delectable mussels and cockles with wonderful homemade bread and wine.

And then to “the” church. It was pretty out of the way so as we’ve been a little lazy this trip with public transport, we decided to Bolt. It was actually by far the most expensive Bolt we’ve had on the trip (and we’ve used them ALOT) but I didn’t care. We arrived and I was immediately in awe.

Válega church is a true masterpiece of tile painting art and surely one of the most remarkable churches in Portugal!

It has also been known as the “Portuguese Sistine Chapel”… lol a bit like calling Aveiro the ”Venice of Portugal”… but I do get it. Seriously so beautiful with its facade, completely adorned with hand-painted tiles depicting biblical moments… and the entire interior of the Church is also painted, with the Ave Maria prayer being mainly represented. Looking up, it’s impossible not to be dazzled by the ceiling, made with wood from Brazil.

It also had the most beautiful and well kept cemetery I think I have ever seen. Every single grave had fresh flowers.

I actually felt quite overwhelmed and teary… I am a lover of beauty in its many forms and it can make me quite emotional. Feeling very blessed as we continue on our journey.
Pure magic- Part 2

June 7th, 2025

We wake and have a good nourishing breakfast before heading out to the UNESCO World Heritage Pena Palace that apparently inspired Disney’s fairy-tale castles… and is one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. We have tickets for this one so as not to wait in long queues as this is what the majority of people come to Sintra to see. There are huge crowds everywhere bustling for position to try to get the perfect picture… or two… or hundred 🙄.

The Palace is of course located high on a hill and stands out for its bold colours and whimsical shapes… an eclectic blend of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Islamic styles and from its location provides a wonderful lookout point.

The colourful eclectic terraces are a highlight of Sintra- all the dreamy pictures I had seen while researching this place, came to life right there on the terraces of Pena Palace.

The terraces uniqueness is due to the colourful and unusual palette mix of yellow, red, blue and white.

There were pretty yellow arches…

…exquisite onion domes and a plethora of interesting sculptures…

… a very crowded chapel with stunning details…

… plus gorgeous views of the valley and the Moorish castle. And did I mention crowds?

It was cold and windy being so high and so we continued on down and walked some of the stunning and huge palace grounds and then up again to Cruz Alta… from where Google had said you get a good view of the palace. Wrong! There are only glimpses through the trees…

…but there was a lovely view and a large cross marking the hill.

There is always more to see but limited time and limited leg power… yes I was really feeling it today after our big day yesterday. So instead of exploring the gardens further, we moved onto our final destination… the Castle of the Moors… and inevitably it is VERY high on a hill. Built in the 10th century by the Moors, this castle was once a strategic viewing point. We hiked up through stunning huge boulders and greenery

… to the fort walls and the views were just amazing.

I found a second wind to climb right to the top… which was at this stage, very difficult but worth the effort. Wow!

Stunning views of the valley, rolling hills and the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. And Pena Palace.

And then the climb down… kind of scary and very hard on the knees with so many stairs.

We make it back to the entrance and try to get a Bolt home but it seems impossible so we decide to walk down. I know I joke about everything being uphill both ways but for anyone with bad knees you will know that the downhill is actually much harder than the up… and the walk down is much more full on than we realised. I really struggle although we do walk through a stunning garden full of climbing roses and other blooms… and gorgeous views.

When we do finally reach Sintra town, Anne continues on to our B&B to pick up some medication and I find a find a lovely family run restaurant for a nice long lunch. We had passed and commented on this place yesterday and I realise that it is also on my list of recommendations- Tascantiga. I sit with a wonderful glass of wine and peruse the traditional tapas menu while I wait for Anne to return. We are hoping for a long late lunch as there is nothing else planned for this town… so I am disappointed when the owner tells me they close at 4… which is in about 40 minutes… and Anne isn’t back yet. When she does arrive we enjoy an excellent authentic meal of Portuguese tapas with a creative take and wine. Exactly what we needed… if a little rushed.

Sintra- a place full of history, beauty, mystery and pure magic. And of course any magical place has the danger of over tourism… which sadly really is an issue here with traffic jams everywhere and wall to wall people at any of the main tourist locations, which can be uncomfortable, frustrating and overwhelming. Despite this, it really is magical in many ways… a fairytale land perhaps more than anywhere I have been… nothing quite seems real and it’s definitely worth the negatives that inevitably come with visiting tourist destinations like this one.

And so we move on…
Pure magic- Part 1

June 7th, 2025

One of my goals when I left home was to write my blogs with fewer words as they take so much of my time. Well that’s been an ultimate fail! And I have a feeling this might be a long one- so… apologies in advance. 😂🤷🏼‍♀️

How many times can I say wow! Beautiful. Amazing. Spectacular. Stunning. Picturesque. Breathtaking. There’s not enough superlatives for this place. Sintra.

Less than an hour by train from the Lisbon, Sintra feels like another world… a magical fairytale world rich in history, filled with imposing, colourful castles, misty forests, charming cobblestone streets, centuries old monasteries and strange, historical mansions with exotic hidden gardens… all framed by mountains, where steep cliffs drop down to the Atlantic Ocean. Sintra truly is one of the most stunning places I’ve ever laid eyes on. A real-life fairytale.

We took a Bolt from Lisbon and arrived early enough for a full day of exploration. Dropped off our luggage at our beautiful rustic 19th century manor house B&B…

… and headed straight off as we had a big day planned. We walked to our first stop Quinta de Regalia and the first thing we notice is, just like Lisbon, everything is uphill. Both ways.

We go straight to the ticket office only to be informed that there are no tickets left for the next few hours so we purchase tickets for late in the afternoon and change our plan. You have to be flexible. We head to Palacio De Monserrate- an elegant and exceedingly stunning palace with a unique and whimsical mix of Gothic, Indian, and Moorish architecture, surrounded by exotic botanical gardens and set in lush, forested hills. It really did defy the imagination. OMG we loved this place and spent way longer here than we expected… wandering the serene lush garden where species from all over the world grow…

…filled with birdsong and the sound of water. I felt like they were playing one of those relaxation rainforest soundtracks except it was real.

There is a water lily filled pond…

… several springs and waterfalls…

… fountains and grottoes, and the most delightful chapel ruin that seriously felt like it was a fairy’s playground. It reminded me of a small version of Ta Prohm temple in Cambodia with the overgrown vines and tree roots taking hold of the foundations. I couldn’t believe how enchanting it was.

We were reluctant to leave the garden but did eventually make it to the palace … and were completely in awe. It’s hard to imagine that people actually owned this amazing place but it was the traditional summer resort of the Portuguese court… built from the ruins of a former palace.

The details were so extraordinary I have no words to explain… rose marble columns…

and patterned plaster… on all the walls.

Wandering around the many rooms, we ooo’d and aaah’d at the gorgeous intricate decorations adorned with gold…

… carved archways…

…marble relief and the most stunning ornate decorative ivory ‘lace’ arches.

The ceilings we all ornate and absolutely stunning.

Seriously there are no words. My kind of heaven…

… all combined with gorgeous panoramic views overlooking the Lawn and wider estate..

And just to make it even better I discovered an interesting fact- Monserrate Palace is completely self-sufficient and uses 100% renewable energy produced through wind power, hydropower, and solar power. I love it when heavily touristed places are doing their part to mitigate the footprint of all of those travelers!

But what really astonished me is that this place is frequently overlooked by visitors to Sintra in favor of some of the more renowned (but not nearly as captivating) attractions. Ironically, it’s one of the least visited palaces in Sintra!

As we dragged ourselves away, our plan was now to take a path through the beautiful forest between Monserrate and the Capuchos convent… a humble 16th century monastery nestled in the forest offering a serene contrast to Sintra’s grand palaces. I was looking toward to this but found out that a big storm a few months ago had closed both the track and the convent. So we headed into the historical town centre of Sintra.

The historic center is small but nice, with lots of restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops…

… street musicians, horse-drawn carriages… and crowds… and the National Palace in the center of the main square.

We wandered the narrow cobbled streets. It is bustling with tourists with many of the shops selling tourist crap but still charming.

Even the street signs are beautiful hand painted tiles.

A quick trip back to our B&B and we were off again, walking uphill back to the mysterious Quinta de Regalia where we had attempted to visit first thing this morning. This is a historic home dating back to 19th century, built in a fusion of architectural styles…

… and as soon as we stepped into this place it felt like entering a secret world… filled with interesting sculptures, stunning towers everywhere looking like something out of Romeo and Juliette or maybe Rapunzel…

… fountains, benches…

… grottos…

…lakes…

… paths that lead to nowhere… twisting tunnels.

Hidden doors, moss-covered walls and of course the famous mysterious (super crowded) initiation well- where every step down feels like unravelling a mystery.

It was quickly dark and wet and is a little unnerving to realise that these wells were never used for storing water.

Was it for secret rituals connected to tarot mysticism, Templar myths and Freemasonry? A passage to another realm? No one really knows but the magic here is undeniable as the winding Gothic spiral led us deep below to underground galleries and a beautiful enigmatic garden. Sintra is full of beauty… but this place? Its pure mystery and wonder.

The gardens were spectacular… like walking into the Fern Gully movie!

The sun was shining through the canopy and there was beautiful greenery all around us. Flowers were blooming…

… lily pads, moss covering all the rocks, and the sound of running water everywhere. A gorgeous chapel…

… and, as always, stunning views.

I’ve been watching the many influencers around Lisbon and Sintra and think I’ve become pretty good at capturing Annie looking gorgeous. I think she needs to get onto social media- don’t you think? 😂

We walk back to Sintra town to a little bar with a panoramic view over the National palace and stunning villas all around, and have a wine before finding a traditional restaurant where we could sit inside out of the cold (yes the weather is very different from the conditions we arrived in Lisbon to) and then back to our B&B and a long hot bath for me. My body is really feeling every year of my age with 22,485 steps today… on cobbles… all uphill. Definitely in need of a good nights sleep.