I’m in heaven. But I thought I was in heaven last week. And then, the week before. So I’m wondering if there’s different parts of heaven. Is there a Turkish part? And a Greek part? And do you have to choose… or is it just allocated depending on how good you’ve been (I think that’s my catholic upbringing coming out). I hope I don’t have to choose because… how could you choose? Everywhere is amazing! 

Anyway- this part of heaven is called Leros and it has cool pristine water, lots of colourful fishing boats, blue blue skies that go on forever without a cloud and the cutest little rustic bars and restaurants you’ve ever seen.

This adventure began with a ferry from Bodrum to Kos where we had a few hours to kill before the onward ferry… so ate a pretty bad breakfast in another tourist trap… and had a little wander. 

And then on to Leros via Kalymnos. The ferry stops at various islands along the way, much like a municipal bus service… and we will be using it again when we move on. It’s a lovely way to travel… if you could only skip the inefficient Greek immigration part. 

There are a number of Greek Islands that you probably find on every top 10 list… Santorini, Mykonos… Milos… maybe Paros… but I think Leros island, which is quite remote, is never one of them! It hasn’t the landscape of Santorini or the nightlife of Mykonos, or the beaches of Zante or Kefalonia. But I think all the Greek Islands have been kissed by Mother Nature and Leros is a hidden gem that has an unexpected and authentic character and beauty… and chilled atmosphere that made me fall in love with it instantly. It truly exceeded all my expectations!

We are staying in Panteli village… a pretty seaside fishing village with that quiet, picturesque charm that has sadly disappeared from many Greek island resorts. There are boutique hotels and quaint beachfront tavernas lining the small pebbly beach… that are still bustling with people compared to most places we have been. 

Surrounded by green trees and steep mountains and overlooked by the ancient Panagia Castle…

… and the six iconic restored windmills of Leros…

… this beach is just gorgeous. Swimming with the fish in the crystal clear shallow waters was just magical and we spent much of our time just hanging out here. 

We watched the goings on at the tiny fishing harbor at the end of the beach and saw the fishermen tend to their nets and tiny colourful fishing boats. 

And of course I rise early to see the sunrise and embrace the ephemeral beauty of changing light and moments in time.

We wander Agia Marina, the heart of the island- through the narrow picturesque alleyways filled with history, graceful old mansions with stone or wooden balconies decked with brightly colored flowers, whitewashed stone walls, colourful seaside cafes and houses lined up along the waterfront.

This is where we visited the recommended Mylos… the most famous restaurant on Leros Island, where the setting is as sensational as the food… located right by the sea in the center of the island overlooking an old historic windmill which seems to hover over the water right outside its window. Everything was superb. 

I think it would be impossible to eat badly on Leros, and the food was often exceptional – prawn and pumpkin risotto at Pirofani Tavern… the Kataifi cheese or swordfish at Psaropoula where tables are wedged into the pebbled shoreline… or the aubergine and shiitake ravioli with sea-bass and baklava with a twist at Mylos. There is even a delicious bakery/ice creamery right next door to our hotel where we have eaten delicious pastries and traditional cakes like patsavouropita (a syrupy filo and yoghurt cake) for breakfast along with the occasional ice cream. And literally every single bite has been fantastic! 

With all that delicious food, we need to do some walking so we went up to the Castle of Panagia… a medieval fortress above Panteli that offers stunning views of the island and the Aegean Sea.

The castle was apparently built for the people who found refuge in the event of raids by pirates or thieves and dates back to the Byzantine era and was later fortified by the Knights of St. John and was used as a military observation post. We explored the well-preserved walls, chapels, and the panoramic views from the top.

While on top of the hill we also visit the six famous, restored windmills that date back to the 17th-19th centuries.

I really wanted to visit Harris bar that I had read about… one of the six restored  windmills converted into a cocktail bar with tiered terraces overlooking the Aegean and a perfect place for a sunset cocktail… but sadly, it was already closed for the season. We went up to have a look anyway and the view was absolutely mesmerizing; I was amazed by the beauty of Leros as we looked at the island from this hill.

Lime beach bar in Merikia beach had also been recommended so we taxied to its remote location and found a gorgeous very rustic private beach bar… pretty much the antithesis of the luxury resorts and nightlife we have been experiencing in Bodrum. There is no luxury here… but I prefer rustic character anyway. Loved this place with its cool music, great cocktails, basic but delicious food and chilled out vibes! 

We visit the tiny church of Agios Isadoros… a super cute little chapel on a small islet joined to the main island by a causeway. Very picturesque!

And we wander the local village…

So hard to leave this place and that sensation of having sidestepped real life. But another island beckons and we are off once again…