Tag: #andithinktomyselfwhatawonderfulworld

Too rich and famous

September 26th, 2023

Monaco oozes wealth, glamour, and glitz. It’s where you’ll see some of the most expensive cars in the world (we did), drink some of the most expensive coffee in the world (we didn’t) and see the biggest super yachts in Europe (we did). Monaco beams with sun-kissed Mediterranean weather, a celebrity status casino, resorts, groomed gardens and beautiful beaches. From shopping (or window shopping depending on your budget) in the streets of Monte Carlo, to attending iconic events like the Grand Prix, there’s perhaps no place like Monaco.

Monaco is not a part of France although you’d wonder why it has retained its sovereign status since 1861, when it is bordered by France on three sides and the Mediterranean on one. But it is a seperate country- my number 50… and hopefully many more to come as my goal is 70 by 70. So for this reason alone we had to visit! And we figured that even if you’re not a billionaire with a megayacht, it would still be a very interesting place.

It is the world second smallest country… covering a mere 485 acres, but it packs a lot in its small square mileage and truly feels like a place that isn’t even located on Earth. Monaco is the world’s richest country due to its lack of income tax and residency requirements… and also has the highest number of millionaires per capita in the world… which you can see just by looking around. It’s also has the worlds lowest poverty rate… is the most densely populated country in the world… and had the highest number of police officers per capital (The country is packed with fascinating statistics such as these!)

So… we started the day literally being jammed like sardines onto the train. I’m surprised Anne could even breathe (reaching, as she does, only to most people’s shoulders!). The trains around here (French Riviera) are really crap and I totally cannot understand why in such a crowded tourist area they don’t either put on more trains or add extra carriages as every train we have caught has been pretty much the same. Bad start to the day!

Monarco is one country that can apparently be explored on foot entirely in a day- so we thought we’d find out. Our plan was to head straight to ‘The Rock’ which is the oldest section of Montecarlo, arguably the most picturesque and it’s quite simply a maze of alleyways perched on a rocky promontory rising steeply from the sea on both sides. It is also home to the Prince’s Palace… and our Monaco trip wouldn’t be complete without seeing where the royalty lives… would it? The palace was built in the 12th century and is the home of the current prince of Monaco.

So we left home in time to get to the palace in time to see the changing of the guards… which we thought would be an entertaining sight. But neither of us seemed to be able to get any internet reception to find our way there (it was super confusing just getting out of the train station)… so we got lost and subsequently missed it. No trumpeting, drumming and marching for us today! 😩

It’s a steep climb up to the palace along the Rampe de la Major, but we were certainly rewarded with some of the most incredible views of the city… ummm… country and over the Mediterranean Sea from up high.

As we’d missed the Changing of the Guard, the palace was not really our thing…

… so we just wandered the pretty streets of the old town which are filled with cafes and restaurants… and about a thousand souvenir shops- it felt like a real tourist trap.

I had heard of a really cool museum here and we strolled around looking for it. Wandered into a really beautiful park… filled with sculptures

… Jardins de Sainte-Martin that offers some incredible views over Port de Fontvieill with those luxurious yachts that Montecarlo is famous for… that iconic view of Monaco.

We were tired and looked for a seat to rest and eat some lunch which we had bought with us (yes we’re on a budget)… but there were so many tourists that a seat was impossible and we settled for some hard concrete steps that were at least in the shade. Yes it is still unseasonably hot and I still have nothing to wear!

The park is also apparently opposite the Cathedrale de Monarco… a stunning white Roman-Byzantine style building that we wanted to see (we both love visiting the churches and cathedrals)…

… but I hadn’t done my research properly and was confused about where it was and we missed it. So far… not so good!

We did find the museum we had been looking for earlier- pretty hard to miss actually but then, so was the cathedral. The Temple of the Sea, or better known as The Oceanographic Museum, located on a rocky cliff is one of the oldest aquariums in the world. The museum sits 90m above sea level and took 11 years to construct just the foundations to keep it from toppling into the water.

It focuses on everything involving the ocean and marine science and there are 3 aquariums inside with over 6,000 marine creatures across 100 pools.

We decided to catch the bus down as we had already walked about 10kms… and as we knew that our itinerary wouldn’t be complete without visiting the famous Monte Carlo Casino, we hopped off there. Fun fact: locals aren’t allowed to gamble in the casino, it’s considered to be illegal! Instead, the casino is entirely for visitors to Monaco. The Monte Carlo Casino is said to be the most popular casino in the entire world. This is probably because it’s featured in quite a few of the James Bond films, among other pop culture phenomena.

The casino dates back to the 19th century and is absolutely breathtaking on the outside, as I’m sure it is on the inside… although we didn’t even attempt to go in.

There was a constant procession of ridiculous and expensive cars coming and going from the Hotel de Paris in front of the casino… Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Porches, Audis, BMWs, Maseratis, Aston Martins… you name it! Just a magnet for 6-digit priced vehicles. I couldn’t personally tell the difference (although Anne could) but even I could tell they were probable worth more than my house and I know nothing about cars.

We then walked down towards the harbour, via a beautiful cascade of buildings everywhere we looked…

…to gape in awe at the enormous yachts… one even had a helipad complete with helicopter on board.

More than just super yachts, the harbour itself is very beautiful and is one of the most famous harbours in the world.

We were tired, thirsty and hot and thought it was wine time. Found a lovely little restaurant overlooking the harbour but they wouldn’t let us in just for a drink. They suggested we try the yacht club (quite a walk back in the direction we had come) but when we got there we were told it is members only. Trudged back down to the next suggested place and once again it was for meals only. No one wanted to give these two grannies a drink! Too tired and fed up to keep trying we found an ice cream place that actually served wine and sat by the harbour to rest and replenish. Our plan was to stay for dinner but both of us were really over it and we decided to head back to Villefranche sur Mer.

So… with buildings each more stunning than the last… manicured gardens filled with public art projects… wide boulevards along a waterfront vista rivaling any in the world… palatial homes, expensive cars, yachts filling the harbor… this is pretty much anyone’s definition of paradise. But honestly… I absolutely did not like it. Is it ok to say that? Am I the only one (although Anne felt the same)? Everything I read talked about how amazing everything was… and I get it… because it is. But it also isn’t! It’s noisy, fast-paced… hectic. A bit like the Gold Coast on steroids meets Europe. But beyond that, there is just something that you feel at every moment here… this is a place in which money rules, and where only the wealthy truly matter. The opulence everywhere you looked felt kind of immoral if I can use that word… at the very least it messed with my head. There are different kinds of beauty I guess… and this just wasn’t my kind!
Why not?

September 24th, 2023

Since my son Chris thought all the places we were going were pretty boring 😂, he sent me a friends recommendation to visit Chamonix and go on the Aguille du midi. So we thought… why not? There was nothing like that planned in our itinerary and it was not too far away. Always looking for a new adventure and experiences. e booked a bus for the following morning and we were off.

Trying to capture the stunning beauty as the bus sped along was difficult and frustrating.

Sheer rockfaces , waterfalls, snow capped mountains with low lying cloud, cute little Swiss-looking villages and lush green green green meadows with clear blue skies. Considering the weather was looking iffy and had poured last night, once again we were blessed.

We arrived in Chamonix… a stunning mountain resort town nestled in a steep valley between mountains in the Alps of France. The scenery around this little alpine town is phenomenal with views of majestic snow capped peaks including Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak… awe-inspiring glaciers (The Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice) is the largest glacier in France, 7km long and 200m deep) and alpine meadows.

There’s no doubt that the biggest attraction in Chamonix is the mind-blowing nature around it but the town itself is also really gorgeous.

We enjoyed a little walk around Chamonix’s historic center… brimming with cute sidewalk cafes, restaurants, bakeries, artisanal food shops and stylish alpine hotels. Walk along the bustling pedestrian streets…

…visited a little church in an idyllic setting…

… and found the flower laden main square lined with quaint historical buildings with the Arve River running through its centre.

The river is fed by the glaciers of the Mont Blanc massif and you can hear it gushing as you wander the streets and even feel how cold it is when standing close by! So picturesque!

We then headed off to the Aiguille du Midi that had been recommended… the highest cable car in France! As we rose steeply into the mountain I was awestruck by the grandeur of the Alps.

The Aiguille du Midi leaves from the center of Chamonix. You start rising sharply up the mountain and feel like you’re suspended in air, about to skim the side of the mountain. The clouds drifted across a blue sky and cast shadows on the sparkling white snow. The granite Mont Blanc towered over the bustling village below, and as we reached the summit, it was as if we were viewing a dollhouse town, complete with a train set, from high above.

This cable car holds the world record for the highest vertical ascent! At the half-way point you’ll arrive at Plan de l’Aiguille, where we took a second lift to the top.

We travelled up to a staggering altitude of 3842m. It feels wildly unearthly for your body up there and bought back memories of treking in Peru at up to 5000m. It’s hard to breathe even with a little exertion.

Literally. Mont Blanc is the highest point in Europe at a staggering 4,807 meters (15,778 feet) tall. And this is the closest you can get to it without having to climb it! Aiguille du Midi means “needle of the Mid-day” and looks a bit like a needle pointing up to the sky.

The views are simply breathtaking. The illusive snow-capped peaks and jagged mountains are some of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen. Next minute… whiteout! Next minute… blue sky! The weather up here is extremely unpredictable.

Had we arrived a little earlier there’s the amazing opportunity to take the panoramic gondola that crosses from Aguille du Midi in France to the Pointe Helbronner in Italy. What an adventure that would have been… a gondola between countries… but sadly not to be (but probably good for my anxiety that can get a little out of control on these occasions). There was not enough time to get across and then back on the last of the day which leaves Italy at 2.30 🤷🏼‍♀️.

We did “Step Into the Void” a five-sided glass box at an altitude of 3,842 meters overlooking the mountain chasms. It felt a little like we were suspended in thin air over the Alps! Maybe not one for the faint-hearted (me), but I couldn’t miss the opportunity and the guaranteed awe-inspiring views.

We returned back to the beautiful square and found a restaurant… it was definitely wine time. We sat and had a few glasses, ate some delicious French onion soup and whiled away the time until our bus would leave just after 8pm to take us back home for our last night in Annecy. Big travel day again tomorrow with a huge change of scenery as we hear to the Côte d’Azur.
There’s just something about swans…

September 23rd, 2023

Another day another storybook town… and our journey to get there was just as lovely. While it included four trains and three changes… potentially a nightmare… it was relaxing (Swiss trains are the best) and the hours went very quickly travelling through stunning Swiss countryside with its castles and villages, bright green pastures, vineyards, lakes and mountain backdrops. It is difficult to take pictures out of the train windows but I couldn’t help but keep clicking away.

Overwhelmed again by the beauty of where we are now staying- Annecy… another one of the most beautiful towns in France and perhaps one of the most romantic spots on Earth, nestled in the heart of the towering French Alps just over 20 miles from Geneva. Annecy has breathtaking views with its mountain backdrop and a crystal-clear blue lake (apparently the cleanest in Europe) in the foreground… a vision of pure tranquillity.

Nicknamed the Venice of the Alps because of its beauty and canals that help to give it a Venice-like feel. It is a perfect blend of nature and medieval architecture.

The old town itself is also ridiculously beautiful…

… but it’s a very different type of beauty than in Colmar- not in your face but quieter… softer… more peaceful. No more half timbered buildings but very historic and once again, looks like it’s straight out of a storybook…

… divided by little canals and tranquil streams that flow from the intensely blue Lake…

…small bridges lined with blooming flowers…

… colourful homes…

… and tiny shops with wares spilling out into the picture-perfect streets. The city is full of historical and architectural treasures…

The old bridges…

… fortresses, historical religious buildings and churches (there are several), give the impression of going back in time.

Wandering the cobbled streets at all different times of the day, we were enchanted by the winding canals that Annecy is known for… lined with colourful houses and pretty flowers… and the smell of fresh-baked breads and croissants that wafted down the street.

The Pont de Amours is a symbolic place of Annecy… a small wooden bridge overhanging a canal and overlooking the lake, it is apparently the meeting point of lovers. Legend has it that people who kiss on this bridge stay together for life. But no kissing here sadly…

If you’ve seen one photo of Annecy, it’s probably of Palais de l’Isle: this tiny, 12th century storybook kind of castle is located on a tiny island in the middle of the Thiou River and is Annecy’s best-known building.

While the structure has served many purposes since it was built in the 12th century… a residence and a courthouse… it is perhaps most notorious for being a prison- that was its function during times as far apart as the 13th century and World War II, and at many points in between! Doesn’t sound quite as romantic as it looks! Now it’s a museum exhibiting Annecy’s heritage.

What would a fairy-tale town be without a castle? The magnificent Chateau d’Annecy dates back to the 12th century and overlooks the landscape from a hill. It once served as the home to the Counts of Geneva- today, it’s a museum and home to a panoramic view over the town.

Of course I walked the Old Town at sunrise…

… and it was picture perfect.

But it’s not all about the Old Town. Considered one of the most beautiful and purest lakes in Europe, Lake Annecy is the second largest lake in France… a true marvel of nature and the towns most famous landmark. Surrounded by the mountains, the landscape is simply breathtaking and it’s part of UNESCO World Heritage List since 2008. I walked here at sunrise…

… and the colour was just amazingly turquoise… you just think it isn’t real. I was mesmerised once again by the swans gliding along on the lake…

… there’s just something about swans (although I do remember my daughter jade being attacked by one when she was a child so she may not agree with me). But to me they somehow just symbolise peace and elegance and grace. Just perfect for this place.

I came back later in the day with Anne with a loose plan to do one of the lake cruises offered but decided instead to walk the path part of the way around the lake. It was so lovely… a beautiful sunny autumn day, clear turquoise water… pure tranquility.

On our last full day, I rose early as usual to go down to one of the regular market mornings when the streets and even the bridges throughout the Old Town swell with stalls hawking their wares…

…anything from fresh locally made nougat, sooooo many cheeses, fresh bread and pastries, seafood, fruit and vegetable, rotisserie cooked chicken and other meats… through to jewellery and clothing. I was captivated by the atmosphere.

There were things I didn’t understand and things I did but had never seen before. I wanted to buy it all… and would have if we had more time… but as it was, I left with a few pieces of fruit.

I did manage to find myself a chai latte… my first since leaving home… and as I ate the best almond croissant I had ever tasted for breakfast and wandered the bustling market in the beautiful old town, I felt the weight and blessing of my privilege. Sometimes it’s the little moments that have a huge impact.
Belle’s hometown

September 21st, 2023

It rained and thundered all night… and was still raining in the morning and was expected to continue until lunchtime. No sunrise walk for me, but more disappointing was that we had booked a Four Wonders of Alsace tour for today.

The Alsace wine route (Route du Vin Alsace) is a designated section of the Alsace region that passes through some of the best wine-producing towns in France. Famed for its scenic vineyards and medieval villages, it is wonderful mix of French and German culture and food, with its wine also characterised by French and a German influences. And those flower boxes I’m obsessed with… apparently each town seems to be in competition with each other to have the best flowers. Flowers are everywhere… spilling out of flower boxes, lining the streets and adorning doors and windows.

Since we have decided to forgo the stress of driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road, we took the opportunity of a small group tour to explore some of this area. We were picked up in a very comfortable Mercedes minivan and headed off with a handful of others to our first destination. The weather was misty but the rain seemed to have stopped.

When I arrived in Colmar I thought it would be hard to imagine a place more picture-perfect. But only minutes away, Eguisheim is a village that outdid itself in charm and beauty. It is said that it was the inspiration for Belles hometown in Beauty and the Beast- and it certainly felt like we had stepped into the middle of a fairy tale (I know I keep saying that).

Wherever I looked, I was spellbound!

We visited the church of the only Alsatian popes- Pope Leon IX (1049) who was committed to reforming the church and apparently instrumental in preventing the marriage of priests. Good job Leon 🙄. A beautiful chapel bursting with a diverse mix of contrasts and colours.

Our second stop… another storybook town to discover was the medieval town of Ribeauvillè. Surrounded by ancient walls, vineyards, mountains, and pretty streets, Ribeauville is such a picturesque town, the first thing you notice as you enter the gates is how vibrant and colourful everything is. Of course the area is known for their colourful half-timbered houses with flowers dripping from every windowsill, cobblestone streets, and charming alleyways.

What puts Ribeauville over the top is the castles perched up on the hill overlooking the town, which is just so stunning!

It is also the home of the story of the Pied Piper…

… and to several wonderful cheese shops , in one of which we had the opportunity to sample many of their delicious (cow and goat) cheeses which included tomato pesto, stinging nettles, truffle, nuts and other interesting ingredients.

Just a short drive from Ribeauville and we arrive at ithe enchanting town of Riquewihr. We took a stroll and admired once again the beauty of the half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets and fairytale setting.

Mostly every windowsill is covered with flowers and kooky adornments… and many of the houses are even more brightly coloured than the other towns we have visited.

We continue through the narrow cobblestone streets and came across the 13^th century Dolder tower. Standing tall, and of course festooned with flowers, the tower has been protecting its village for more than seven centuries!

We walk to the edge of the town and you can see the vineyards literally surround the town- so pretty.

Our guide then takes us up for a stunning view over the town and the surrounding countryside and vineyards.

Next stop was Kaysersberg… another one of the most beautiful villages in France.

Town view with the ornate sandstone Église Sainte-Croix 12th century church in the background

The town’s name means “emperor’s mountain” in German… and Kaysersberg actually belonged to Germany for 48 years–between the Franco-Prussian War and the First World War. And this Alsatian village was the birthplace of Nobel Peace Prize winner Albert Schweitzer. And also the brothers Grimm.

Home of the Bothers Grimm

This was also the town when Anthony Bourdain had his 5 star hotel (where he sadly took his life a few years ago) and 2 Michelin star restaurant.

Visited a church that had a gorgeous cross that I would have loved for my collection- although I don’t think it would have fit in my little granny flat. But I have been unable to find one to add to my wall at this stage.

We walked through town and came to a 16th-century bridge (Pont Fortifie), offering a stunning view of the Weiss River.

We walked through town and came to a 16th-century bridge (Pont Fortifie), offering a stunning view of the Weiss River.

In the distance, we could catch a glimpse of the Château de Kaysersberg, a castle in ruins.

Our last stop for the day was to a local wine cave to taste some of the local wines from Cremánt to Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. A long but awesome day so we decided to stay in our apartment for the evening and eat a lovely fresh baguette with some of the delicious cheese we bought in Ribeauville.
These are the hands…

September 17th, 2023

We woke to a cool and misty morning… no sunrise for me on my morning walk today… and certainly no view up to the Dracenfels.

Today we head to Bad Ems… the town where the wedding will be held. On the way, the amazing Klaus (a true gentleman) took us to Sayn Castle to see a delightful butterfly garden. We walked in the midst of a tropical flora of palm trees, banana trees and blooming orchids with hundreds of beautiful exotic butterflies flying around us.

Bridges led over densely overgrown pools where turtles and koi romp.

Stunning colourful tropical birds…

… and quail (with tiny babies)…

… scurried through the palm and fern fronds and we even discovered a large iguana.

And it was like a dream when one of the big blue morpho’s landed on me.

The spectacular spa town of Bad Ems on the River Lahn, surrounded on all sides by the Nassau Nature Park, is Germany’s answer to Nice… where grand spa buildings and perfectly manicured gardens line the banks of the River.

It is apparently the place to go for modern medical marvels, natural remedies and Asian healing methods… as well as relaxation. And weddings!

Bad Ems, sometimes called “The Imperial Spa” was one of Germany’s most famous bathing resorts in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Kings, tsars, emperors, politicians, musicians and writers flocked here to enjoy this elegant town with its curative mineral and thermal springs. Boasting no fewer than 15 mineral springs, which are still used to treat respiratory diseases, the gastrointestinal tract, allergies and cardiovascular disorders and for improving blood circulation.

Had a little window of opportunity before a pre wedding ‘BBQ’ planned for tonight, and had noticed a couple of small lookouts on the ridge behind our hotel. So, of course I had to climb it… and it was well worth the effort to enjoy the magnificent panarama down to the river and over the town.

Had a quick walk around the town before heading back to our grand and elegant hotel to prepare for the evenings festivities.

We sat outdoors at a stunningly decorated long table for the most sumptuous feast. It may have been called a BBQ but unlike any BBQ I have ever attended (and certainly not your typical Aussie barby)… and with a generous side of cocktails and Riesling.

Woke up early and went for my usual sunrise walk… but once again, no sunrise to be seen as the area was enveloped in mist…

…always a good omen for the coming day. We all breakfasted together and then while Ina prepared for her coming nuptials we decided it was the perfect time for another walk around town (to walk off some of what we had eaten last night and what we knew was coming later in the day)…

… and to visit the spa for a relaxing hour or two.

And finally it was time for the wedding… the reason we found ourselves in Germany when the trip was originally planned for France.

From the beginning it was perfection! The small outdoor area where the ceremony was to be held looked so beautiful with a white carpet sprinkled with rose petals and showcasing spectacular floral decorations.

My precious friend Anne… looking stunning… walked her kilted son ‘down the aisle’ led by a piper.

Beautiful Ina and Klaus followed and the ceremony began… and tears flowed. Every detail was thoughtful and heart warming… from the mixing of sands from several important places in their journey together to the tying of hands or ‘hand fasting’ as it is known. Handfasting is a celtic ritual in which the hands are tied together to symbolize the union of two faithful souls. This cord is strong enough to hold them together during times of struggle yet flexible enough to allow for individuality and personal growth. As their hands were bound together, so shall their lives be bound as one. I loved the symbolism and the words of the poem read by the celebrant…

“These are the hands of your best friend, young and strong and full of love for you, that are holding yours on your wedding day, as you promise to love each other today, tomorrow and forever.

These are the hands that will work alongside yours, as you build your future together.

These are the hands that will passionately love you and cherish you through the years and with the slightest touch, will comfort you like no other.

These are the hands that will hold you when fear or grief fills your mind.

These are the hands that will countless times wipe the tears from your eyes, tears of sorrow and tears of joy.

These are the hands that will give you strength when you need it, support and encouragement to pursue your dreams, and comfort you through difficult times.

And lastly, these are the hands that even when wrinkled and aged, will still be reaching for yours, still giving you the same unspoken tenderness with just a touch.”

Very touching and romantic… as were their individual vows. My tears (and others) flowed… and stupidly I hadn’t thought to bring tissues 🤷🏼‍♀️.

We had drinks on a gorgeous leafy garden terrace with a stunning view over the old historical part of Bad Ems and the Lahn River… listening to tunes by an acoustic pop duo Neuton.

There was a little dancing…

Here Tim and Ina cut the cake…

… which we enjoyed, among many other delicious goodies while they disappeared to have photos taken. While we were sitting and enjoying the ambience Anne realised the zip on her beautiful dress had split (too much delicious food even for someone who usually doesn’t eat much) and so we dashed back to our room for her to make a quick costume change 😂.

Eventually we all made our way to the magnificent Renaissance Marmorsaal or ‘Marble Hall’ with its wall paintings, chandeliers and columns made of Lahn valley marble… absolutely spectacular!

for another sumptuous six course meal…

… and two wonderful heartfelt speeches by Klaus and beautiful Anne. So heartwarming to see how these families envelopes this couple with love. And very special to be included in this wonderful event.

And then it was time for dancing and cocktails… and more dancing…

… but not for long for these sixty something years olds. After a long but wonderful day, a soft bed definitely beckoned and we were both quickly in the land of nod.
The King of the castle

September 10th, 2023

So I feel like literally EVERYONE has been in Europe this past summer. Every time I open up my newsfeed, it is full of amazing pictures of people I know enjoying some stunning location. And I’ve been soooo envious… but I knew my time was coming. So here we are- six lovely weeks in Europe with my precious friend Anne.

While I have heard that Munich is a fabulous city, my choice will generally be to quickly move out of the major cities to the smaller towns. I’m sure if we’d stayed the night and walked the old town it would have been a blast, but straight from the airport we boarded the train and headed for the fabled ‘Romantic Road’… only a couple of hours’ train ride from Munich.

Packed with turreted fairy-tale castle studded valleys, built by mad kings, along with grand palaces, historic cities and medieval walled towns where flowers spill from balconies of timbered homes, rolling vineyards basking in the sun and lake studded countryside sparkling against towering mountains… the Romantic Road really lives up to its name.

After about 38 hours travel, we arrived in our first destination… exhausted but ready to explore. Our first couple of days are in the gorgeous setting of Füssen- a picture perfect 700-year-old medieval town nestled amongst a cluster of majestic mountain peaks and an idyllic lake landscape… with a sparkling turquoise river that runs through its centre. It could never fail to captivate anyone.

The first stop on any trip will always be exciting and from the moment I stepped onto its cobblestoned streets, I loved it. The quaint centre of this 700-year-old town is truly a delight to stroll through. It has centuries-old streets and buildings and walking around, we stumbled upon baroque churches, gothic houses, a medieval town wall, and even a castle right in the middle of town.

The facades of the buildings along the streets and lining the river banks are coloured in all sorts of wonderful pastel shades, making it a dream to photograph.

And of course there are cobble-stoned alleyways. And flowers everywhere. And I love cobblestones and flowers!

Unbelievably, this little town has not one castle, but two. Perhaps the singular showstopper of the whole Romantic Road is Neuschwanstein, a dramatic castle with towering turrets floating against an equally stunning landscape of craggy mountains and piercingly blue lake. The ‘mad’ King Ludwig II’s reign was defined by a love of art history and architecture, the latter of which included the construction of several great fairytale castles, including this one that was so fantastical that Disney modelled Cinderella’s castle after it. This earned him the nickname Märchenkönig, or the fairytale king. These construction projects cost vast amounts of money; money that King Ludwig did not have. The borrowing caused bankruptcy and the eventual removal of Ludwig from his monarch’s perch.

Ludwig was an intriguing and tragic person… certainly eccentric, reclusive and emotional, and increasingly out of touch with the political realities of his diminishing kingdom. He was just 18 when he became king of Bavaria in 1864, utterly disinterested in politics and rather than live with the frustrations of a modern constitution and a feisty parliament reining him in, he spent his years living in a dream… lost in Romantic literature and operas… hanging out with the composer Wagner, with who he was obsessed… (or perhaps in love), as only a gay young king could… even financing his whole life and career.

Loved by his people, but hated by his ministers, his heritage is more about culture than of great victories in battle. He was declared insane in 1886 and deposed. Neuschwanstein would also be his last place of residence before he was taken to Berg Palace on the banks of Lake Starnberg. On June 19, 1886 he mysteriously died in the lake. To this day the circumstances surrounding his death are unknown. Was it an accident while Ludwig was trying to escape, was it suicide or even murder by his political opponents? And sadly, the construction work was not completed until after his death.

I wanted to see this beautiful castle at sunset, so hopped on the bus to the nearest village to catch the shuttle up to the castle… only to find that they had stopped for the day and we’d have to walk 40 minutes up the steep, rocky goat track to see it. Exhausted, having had basically no sleep for two days, this was not ideal, especially since the last bus back to Füssen was not too far away. So I pretty much had to run up and back (my poor body) if I wanted to to see it. And I did… and it was worth it.

Hohenschwangau castle- Neushwanstein’s less famous cousin

Afterwards we went to a lovely little character filled old wine bar that we had noticed earlier while wandering, where we enjoyed a delicious antipasto and a glass of wine and then headed to bed.

After a well-deserved great nights sleep I was awake early and decided to go for a sunrise walk along the river. Simply stunning as the sun rose above the mountains and turned the mist to gold.

We then headed off to the Tegelberg cable car for another stunning view of the ‘mad’ king’s castles.

At the top we were greeted with panoramic views over the stunning Bavarian landscape… which was also a very popular spot for paragliding (not on my plan this time).

Our plan was to walk down but after looking us up and down, we were strongly advised not to attempt it. Not completely sure if this was an ageist judgement or the fact that we were not wearing actual hiking boots and had no hiking poles but we decided to listen to the advice and cable car’d down again. At the bottom we discovered the next bus was not for two hours so we joined a lovely young American couple and wandered through the stunning green countryside…

… to the nearby Alpsee where we walked around the crystal clear blue lake…

… (which took much longer than we anticipated) for more stunning panoramic views of the castles.

If we had swimmers, it would have been very tempting to jump into the freezing water but didn’t think anyone would appreciate two naked sixty-something years olds disturbing their serene lakeside relaxation.

Just loving all the traditional Bavarian homes and hotels with window boxes full of cascading displays of colourful flowers.

Decided to visit Lechfall on my way home… a man-made waterfall not too far from our apartment. I walked along the turquoise river Lech to reach the falls and somehow managed to get lost… and again on my way home 🤷🏼‍♀️. The gorge and falls were beautiful and well worth the short walk with a wonderful panorama view of the colourful waters of the Lech River seemingly held up as a lake just upstream of it.

We had somehow managed to skip lunch so with all the walking today (17kms for me) we were starving and headed out early for some delicious traditional German food before an early night. A new destination beckons tomorrow. Stay tuned…
The coolest temple that no one’s ever heard of

April 9th, 2023

Again I headed off bright and early as being a weekend, I had read that the crowds are even worse than usual. So I made my way to Arashiyama and arrived by about 7am. It was actually lovely to head out of the city to a more rural setting to get some fresh air. And it certainly was fresh… about 4° and I was relieved to have my teddy jacket with me which up until now, I had wondered why I even packed.

I headed over the Togetsukyo Bridge…

and up the Main Street which a couple of weeks ago would have been surrounded by a pretty impressive number of cherry tree in full blossom.

The mountains behind the bridge are dyed in shades of pink when the Sakura bloom… but you guesses it… pretty much no blossoms. And no people. There was barely a soul to be seen and nothing was open.

I had been hoping to have some breakfast somewhere but as has generally been the case, that seems impossible in Japan as cafes and bakeries don’t open until around 10. So I passed the Kimono forest- an art installation of 600 clear cylinders with Kyo-yuzen kimono designs around one of Arashiyama’s railway stations…

… and then headed straight up to the famed Arashiyama bamboo grove.

Arashiyami Bamboo Grove is a beautiful place full of tall bamboo trees. If you’ve seen a photo of Kyoto, there is a big chance that you’ve seen the Arashiyami Bamboo Grove.

But I have no idea what all the hype is about. It was a lot smaller than I would have thought… in fact I’m sure I’ve seen more impressive groves elsewhere. But it was still lovely… paths lined with endless rows of towering bamboo… other-worldly, serene and dreamlike… with the sound of the rustling bamboo (which btw apparently the Japanese actually have a word for that- how poetic) but there were already quite a few people here trying to capture the feeling of standing in the midst of this sprawling bamboo grove and I could imagine what it would be like once the tourists start pouring in. No tranquility then, that’s for sure.

I had planned to take a ride on the very popular retro Sagano Romantic Train, which offers picturesque views and runs along the majestic Hozu river, passes through a veritable tunnel of Sakura for 7.3kms from Saga to Kameoka station.

Image from google- thus is what it was supposed to be like

Except obviously there was now no point. And then there would have been a river boat down the Hozu River to Arashiyama… all surrounded by cherry blossoms. But not this time!

So I took a taxi down to the Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple that I had heard about and knew I would love… with it’s collection of 1200 unique and whimsical statues called rakan… the followers of Buddha…

… created by everyday people who made a pilgrimage to to learn carving under the guidance of the Buddhist monk Kocho Nishimura. He urged them to bring forth the unique, personal figures that were hiding in the stone. And so they did!

Each one is completely unique and many have humorous or whimsical expressions… some in prayer, some cute, scary, serene, laughing, bizarre.

What a wonderful eclectic mix… and all covered with moss and lichen… like some weird fluffy green hair covering their faces.

I spent ages amongst the sculptures and kept noticing new things. No one may have heard of it as this place is definitely off the tourist path… a rarely visited and interesting place that rewarded my adventurous spirit. It was so peaceful… and I made so many new friends 😂

I then walked through the lovely back streets of Arashiyama to Gio-ji Temple and Moss Gardens- and everyone knows how much I love moss.

A mossy carpet coloured in different emerald shades almost completely covers all ground surfaces under canopies of shady trees, while a small number of stone footpaths help to immerse you in the tranquil setting. And virtually not a soul in sight once again.

And another bamboo grove.

So when I walked a bit further down the road and turned the corner, I was totally shocked at the hordes of people that had packed the bamboo grove and the main street since I left for my few peaceful hours on my own. What a transformation!

I was told to expect it to be busy… but this was next level! Buses packed the car park and it was difficult to walk down the main street now. I would hate to have been one of those people trying to get a photo amongst the bamboo.

I stopped by a cute cafe- the eX cafe that I had read a recommendation for- with no idea of the menu.

Of course there was a queue but I didn’t care as long as I could sit down. Eventually I was called to a seat and handed a menu. It was all very unusual and not what I was hoping for but I saw the girls on the next table with something that looked cool… so I ordered that. Japanese sweet odango (which is a kind of rice dumplingy thingy on skewers that I had to brown on a little traditional charcoal burner and then dip in black honey and red bean sauce). It was ok but more about the experience… and to rest.

Back to Kyoto now to see the Fushimi Inari Shrine… a definite top drawer here that does not include cherry blossoms. This place is massive.

There are 30,000 red torii gates or shrines that span four kilometres up a mountain. These gates symbolise the separation between the secular and sacred world … and seem to go on forever… leaving plenty of space to thin out the crowds. And there were crowds…

… bottlenecked at the base of the shrine. But I had heard that there would be so just continued up the trail… up and up and up. I think everyone had the same idea because the crowds didn’t thin out nearly as quickly as I expected.

Apparently most visitors only hike ¼ of the way, so if you climb just a little further the people start to dwindle away… and eventually it did happen. There were still plenty of people but not the crowds at the bottom.

There are plenty of amazing photo opportunities a bit further up… and a lovely view over Kyoto.

Did I make it to the top? I would usually pride myself on getting to the top no matter what, but just couldn’t do it. I probably got three quarters of the way and knew that what goes up must come down. With my knees and hips at the moment, it was going to be hard enough getting down from where I was.

More subway time and then a walk to a little temple I had seen pictures of Yasaka Koshindo- often referred to as ‘Koshin.’ Colourful, eye-catching “Monkeys” adorn the temple.

Visitors write a wish, the date and their name on the monkeys of their favourite colour. That, combined with letting go of one desire, is said to make the wish come true. The monkey is considered a godly messenger. Whatever… but I love colour and thought this temple was very cool.

I had walked past it several times without even realizing it as I had been there in the early morning and late night when it was closed. The area was now teeming with people- very different to when I had been to the area before… and I couldn’t wait to get out of there…

… although I did see a couple of beautiful Japanese girls posing for some photos in stunning kimonos.

I was tired, struggling to walk and craving wine. I hadn’t had one since I arrived…everywhere has beer but it’s not my thing. So I hobbled back to Pontocho and found a little bar. The bars and restaurants on the right side of the alley offer seasonal outdoor patio or window seating with a view of the Kamogawa River and I was lucky enough to be given a window seat right next to a river and the setting was beautiful. And so was the wine.

The bar was in one of these traditional Japanese buildings on the river.

End of day 4- and today I walked 25kms. Tomorrow is pretty much a rest day as I head back to Tokyo.
Philosophy and Blossoms

April 9th, 2023

I wake around 5 as I know this is the best time to escape the crowds in this very busy tourist haven. It is raining, as I knew it would be. I had been watching the weather for the last week and the forecast kept getting worse- 50mm rain expected today. But what do you do… that’s just part of travel. The most beautiful place I believe I have ever been to (Plitvice National Park in Croatia) I spent 6 hours walking in pouring rain in a partly flooded and closed national park. You just do it anyway! And today I was headed for the famed “Philosopher’s Path” and of anywhere in Kyoto I had been looking forward to this. I had purchased a Seed poncho specifically for today… so rain or no rain, here I come.

Firstly I wandered the streets around the Kiomizudera area for some of Kyoto’s most picturesque scenery at Ichinezaka, Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka.

These sloping streets are lined with historic Japanese style buildings that typify Kyoto. Traditional buildings (private homes and shops selling souvenirs and various Japanese products to sweet shops and restaurants) line the narrow streets. Of course nothing is open and there are barely any people around… except a couple having wedding photos taken (that poor wedding dress)…

… no one else is silly enough to wander the streets in this pouring rain at 5.30am. But it is perfect for me… without the crowds, here I can immerse myself in the atmosphere of Kyoto, with Hokan-ji’s three-tiered pagoda overlooking the perfect scene- just as I would a have imagined in my dreams.

Except that I wouldn’t have been wet… as I have come to the conclusion that my new poncho is totally not waterproof! Shame Seed! I am already soaking wet and there is a long day ahead.

I continue my wandering to Gion Shirakawa- perhaps Kyoto’s most beautiful street.

Shirakawa district is found along the small Shirakawa Canal, crossed by picturesque bridges and lined with weeping willows and cherry trees.

The majestic willow trees are indeed a sight, their long strings of leaves danced and swayed in the breeze as they dripped with droplets of rain. The pale pink of cherry blossoms and the green willows form a delightful contrast. An old, small and very quaint stone and wood bridge crosses the canal towards some homes and is the perfect spot to take pictures.

I had briefly passed here yesterday afternoon and there were throngs of people vying for a spot to take a photo, many donned in beautiful kimonos. Now there is no one- not even one person to ask to take a photo 😢. It provides the perfect setting for nostalgia with its dark wood houses, overhanging branches and a softly babbling brook. Picture perfect!

Next… the Philosophers Path… although I made a short pit stop to buy myself a very needed umbrella. This intimate two kilometre path gets its name from the prominent Japanese philosopher Nishanda Kitaro who is reported to have said that the path was a good place for meditation. The Sakura blooming along the canal which cover the path like a canopy and the fallen petals underfoot make this the most popular spot in all of Kyoto during the Sakura season… maybe all of Japan.

As I meandered the Philosophers Path, I certainly contemplated what the hell I was doing on a tiny back path in the outskirts of Kyoto in the pouring rain? Beauty was all I could come up with. I am a lover of beauty. When I chase blossoms it’s about beauty. When I chase waterfalls it’s about beauty. What a beautiful world we are blessed to live in…

I want to experience as much of it as is possible in my one life. And open others eyes to the possibilities. Even when things don’t necessarily go the way we envision them… like walking in the rain… and not having the blossoms I had hoped for to bathe the path and canal in cascades of pink. But it is simply stunning anyway…

… and there are a few late blooming varieties around to brighten up the very grey day.

I absolutely loved strolling this path… it was just so pretty… captivating… and I soaked up the meditative ambience. The rain was persistent and heavy and the path was beginning to flood in parts… and little gushing waterfalls were forming and cascading down the hills into the canal… but still I walked. The sound of the water was all around me… which I loved. The advantage of the weather (and being early once again) was that there were no huge flocks of crowds and I virtually had the path to myself.

I stop for brunch when I am finished this part of my wandering… I have already walked well over 10 kilometres and need breakfast. And a break from the rain. I have a seasonal crepe breakfast with cherries, sakura ice cream and chocolate and it is delicious. And a hot chocolate as now that I have stopped walking and am quite wet, I am cold. Actually shivering. I need to get walking again to warm up and there is still plenty planned for my day.

I wander back through the sprawling grounds of Nanzen-ji Temple To the hidden gem of Tenju-au-Zen temple, a sub-temple nestled within the complex and boasting a beautiful Japanese garden. Tucked away from the crowds, there are two distinct gardens to explore, with the first being a karesansui dry garden and the second featuring a narrow wooden bridge leading to a bamboo grove and a large koi-filled pond.

Another shrine…the Heian Shrine is next on the agenda and it’s definitely not to visit the shrine. I’m actually not that into the temples and shrines although I love their cultural importance… but you actually can’t avoid them even if you wanted to… with over 2000 just in Kyoto. They are pretty much on every corner and street. But many of them have the most spectacular gardens… particularly during cherry blossom season. And of course, this is what I love.

Now to some extent I am no longer chasing the blossoms… I have had to accept that I am too late generally for the extravagant shows of blossoms that would have enveloped Kyoto a couple of weeks ago. But Heian shrine features a large number of late blooming pink weeping cherry trees throughout its gardens. And they were stunning!

I then walked to the tongue-twisting Konkaikomyoji Temple, known as Kurodani for short. This is a sprawling temple complex with a variety of impressive buildings all at different elevations. And cherry trees… past their bloom. And beautiful misty views.

In the middle of Kyoto. With seasonal beauty. It’s the one place I have managed to get to that gives views over Kyoto. Even if it is not clear.

It is still raining… and there’s still no one much around. I was planning on visiting another temple close by that had great views… but I got lost (yes again) and was so tired I ended up eventually finding a taxi and came home for a short break to rest my weary body before dinner.

I head to Pontocho… quite early to try to beat the crowds that make it almost impossible to get into any restaurant. There are always queues… and I don’t have the energy to stand for an hour in a queue. This time of the day is my favourite time here… just after dusk, before the bulk of people arrive for dinner and the light is just so beautiful. Golden hour.

Pontocho is a very popular, tiny alley with an extensive restaurant selection, just near my hotel… and I love it! The buildings along the alley tried to retain their historical character and there is a delightful moody ambience… you feel as you are again transported to another time. When I come out after dinner, the rain has finally stopped. Yay!

My last stop for the night was Kodaiji Temple for the Night Illumination- apparently the best overall night-time illumination in Kyoto thanks to its range: a high-tech projection mapping show, illuminated buildings…

majestical bamboo pathway…

… cherry trees…

… and illuminated garden. Plus an envelope-pushing art exhibit inside– one you’d never expect at a temple.

As I am just up the road, I decide to head back to the Kiomizudera area that I loved so much this morning, to see it in a different light…

… and then head home to my capsule to sleep. This body is tired- 21 kilometres today. But worth every one.
Blossoms

April 8th, 2023

If yesterday was all about chasing blossoms, this morning I finally caught some! Things are looking up.

I couldn’t face getting up at 5 am after my big day yesterday especially to see blossoms that no longer exist. I was definitely feeling that half empty glass. So I started wandering around 7.30 thinking I would get some breakfast somewhere before heading to my morning destination Shinjuku Gyoen. I decide to walk ( as I do) thinking it might loosen up my aching body… and in keeping with my day yesterday… I get lost… (as I do)… which in my own defence, is very easy to do in Tokyo without Wi-Fi and google maps. So… as it turned out, no breakfast, adding several extra kilometres to the morning and late to the garden. As a result, I am on a bit of a tight schedule now, with my sleep-in, needing to check out of my hotel at 11.00 and my booking on the bullet train to Kyoto. But I really think that an hour in the garden will be enough. How wrong I was.

As a former samurai family-owned-garden-turned-imperial-park, Shinjuku Gyoen is a massive space in the inner city where you can take a breather from Tokyo’s hustle and bustle.

I knew this beautiful park featured over a thousand sakura trees, but imagined they would be like the rest I had seen… well passed their best. Happily, I was wrong! As soon as I entered the garden I could see blossoms! Beautiful, fresh blooms.

There are so many varieties of cherry blossom trees and the sakura in Shinjuku bloom at different times for prolonged enjoyment throughout the season- and there were many in full bloom. Big beautiful fresh blossoms and lots of them. Perfect to satisfy my Sakura-longing eyes.

Not an ethereal pink sea of them but certainly more than I was expecting this morning. Be still my beating heart.

The main Shinjuku cherry blossom route winds leisurely through the grounds of this national garden, with sakura trees along the path. It leads up to open areas with plenty of space where you can relax in the sun admiring the cherry blossoms overhead… if only I had time. I didn’t want to leave but had to get back to my hotel…but will be back for the night illumination after my visit to Kyoto.

My trip on the Shinkansen was just what I needed. These trains are amazing- they look and move like a bullet reaching speeds of 320 km and had me in Kyoto within about two smooth and comfortable hours… gave me time to relax and blog and look out the window at the beauty of the mountainous regional landscape and small traditional Japanese villages… and I wished it were longer.

I arrived in Kyoto… and wow… so many tourists (don’t like so many tourists… even if I am one 😂). It reminded me of Santorini walking down the main street shoulder to shoulder with hordes of people… the perils of over-tourism! And the lines for a taxi felt nearly as long as my airport immigration wait. Eventually I arrived at my hotel… a new experience for me as I had decided “when in Rome”, to stay in a capsule hotel. And it’s actually very cosy and comfy.

As always I was keen to explore my local area. Sometimes the best way to explore a city is to just dive in head-first; no plan, no itinerary, just feet on the pavement, eyes wide and propelled by an unquenchable curiosity and wanderlust. I wandered through the atmospheric mazes of old-style Japanese buildings with their myriad of lanterns, whilst the day turned to evening… the lanterns giving it a magical atmosphere.

I had chosen to stay in Gion, with its shrines, temples and beautiful streets… one of those places where you can immerse yourself in the charming historic atmosphere of traditional Kyoto. Sounded amazing and was… and parts of it, once you venture a little outside the main tourist streets, were like stepping back in time… and it’s easy to get a sense of serenity and authenticity. Give me cobbled streets and picturesque machiya in Kyoto over the modern bright lights of Tokyo any day.

The Gion district was once the largest pleasure district in Kyoto and is known for geisha culture, even today… and you can spot a geisha or geiko as they are known in Kyoto, although it can be difficult to get more then a fleeting glance of these icons (I saw three at different times as I wandered the streets here).

I wander through streets that follow small canals, crossed by picturesque bridges…

…and lined by ancient, majestic weeping willow trees sagging under the weight of their own leaves and weeping cherry blossom trees (the first of this type I had seen)…

…and dotted with fancy traditional restaurants.

This is Kyoto at its picturesque best. On both sides of the main canal, the cobbled streets with their traditional wooden houses and tea houses seem to transport me into the past.

Historic and modern stores on sit side by side and sell everything from hankerchiefs decorated with cherry blossom motifs to pink and white coloured rice cakes and sweets, all trying to capture the beauty of the Sakura season.

Even the post office is adorable.

Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine is one of the neighbourhood’s most iconic destinations.

Standing proudly in its lantern lined glory, it is a popular cherry blossom location (a couple of weeks ago). I have a wander through it’s grounds filled with street food vendors and realise I am hungry… but also realise I have left my purse on my bed back at the hotel. So I rush back to pick it up before heading to Kyoto’s only castle- Nijo…

…that is holding A digital light art exhibition “Naked Flowers” that lights up the entire castle and garden complex.

There is also amazing display of illuminated Sakura.

Time for bed…exhausted again although only walked 18kms today (compared to 30 yesterday) and another early start planned for tomorrow.
Fantastical Worlds

April 7th, 2023

So I visited these two places yesterday amidst the blossom chasing, but thought they deserved their own blog… because they were both spectacular!

In the afternoon after my walk along the Sumidagawa River, I braved the subway again to see a random exhibition that I had seen on social media… which sounded right down my alley- the Art Aquarium Museum.

This is a modern art space set up on the upper floor of a swanky department store in Ginza that combines light, sound, and fragrance with traditional Japanese culture and artifacts to recall the appreciation of goldfish. Sounds random I know but it was AMAZING!

Here you can find thousands of goldfish (some very rare and unusual breeds that you don’t usually see)…

… swimming in glass vessels of different shapes and sizes and they are illuminated with moving projections and multicolored lights. Each room has a different theme of Japanese culture like origami, lanterns, floral arrangements, bamboo, the red lights district of the Edo period- that plunge visitors into fantastical worlds.

This special spring exhibition of course had the theme of the Sakura including the scent of cherry blossoms. Everything was magical- the goldfish, the sounds, the lights, the atmosphere…living works of art.

Next stop was TeamLab Planets that I have literally wanted to see for years… I had even contemplated flying to Tokyo just to see it. If the thought of going barefooted while climbing waterfalls, being surrounded by floating orchids, chasing Japanese koi carp that turn into flowers when trying to catch them, or even wandering through sparkling crystals in a distant galaxy sound like your sort of thing, then TeamLab is for you. And it certainly is for me!

TeamLab Planets is a museum in Tokyo, full of immersive art installations inviting visitors to explore a world of art through sight, touch, and sound.

Made by teamLab, there are seven sensory-filled artworks that lead you into a sensory- based artistic world accented with lights, water, and sound… closing the gap between art and viewer.

Toshiyuki Inoko created the teamLab project in 2001 in Tokyo. Inoko is a Japanese physicist and mathematician who decided to create a scientists and artists collective to explore the relationship between science, technology, art, and nature. His team comprises more than 500 professionals, including architects, programmers, mathematicians, engineers, physicists, biologists, and artists. Their mission: free the art from its physical realm and transcend borders thanks to digital technology. Go Toshiyuki!

So cool! I loved it so much! It’s all about the experience, getting to walk on water, different textures, and shapes.. and of course colour and light.