“Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time.” – Steven Wright 

Day 21

We did it! Not that I ever really doubted we would but certainly at times I wondered why we were. 

We started early… well before sunrise, for the first time. There’s an urgency this morning that has not been there before. The alarm is set for 6.00 am, no coffee, no breakfast… just a realisation that today is the day! 20ish kms to Santiago and the end of this adventure. 

It’s not black outside but the streetlights are still on and it’s chilly- something I did not expect. Part of the reason we have decided to leave so early is because yesterdays heat is expected to continue today and we want to get as much of the walk completed before it’s too hot. Apparently the whole of Europe is in the middle of a heat wave. But it certainly doesn’t feel like it as I leave in just a little tank and shorts. 

There is a little mist over the landscape as we leave Cruces and we travel through little hamlets full of stone houses with pretty courtyards, past the very familiar cornfields, vineyards and small market gardens, fruit laden lemon trees and water sources.

There are churches… although they are sadly, rarely open.

And of course the ever present wildflowers.

There is some climbing, but also some beautiful forested areas that I enjoy so much.

Twice today in these beautiful peaceful woods, we suddenly hear music in the distance and eventually pass buskers playing for the pilgrims as they make their way towards Santiago. A little Camino blessing for our last day.

We pass businesses that produce the hórreos and stone crosses that are so much a part of the Galician countryside… and cats… one of which Anne thinks is a goat 😂. And we haven’t even had wine. 

I am annoyed at our lack of focus as early on we twice miss our turns and end up adding kilometres onto an already long day. And after yesterday’s brutal walk we certainly don’t want extra kilometres… as we were expecting more of the same… hot and horrible. But our prayers to keep us cool were certainly answered and at times I even pulled out a scarf that yesterday I was using to try and shade myself… but today I wrap it around my shoulders for warmth. It is a blessing… the top temperature today ends up being 24° instead of 34°. And today is also mostly a beautiful walk… perhaps because we know it is our last… at least for this time. And every time I passed by a noticeable feature, I couldn’t help wondering whether this would be the last shrine, hórreo or stone cross on this Camino. 

The waymarkers that used to be only every few kilometres or so are now coming thick and fast as we are on the final day. But whereas, at the start of the Camino, we can’t wait to knock off some mileage… fast forward to now, I wish the pilgrimage would maybe be just a little bit longer. But it is still exciting to watch to numbers go down into single digits. 

Eventually we do see Santiago in the distance although it still takes quite a while to reach it… and it comes with all the trappings a city brings, noise, cars and thousands of people. It’s a bit of a shock to the senses but we are full of excitement as we enter the old town which means we are very close.

My tears begin when we turn into one of the narrow cobbled roads and we can see the cathedral spires.

We Facetime our friend Sue who has closely followed our journey, and she walks in with us. And then we see some of our friends we have made along the way, waiting to welcome us with hugs and congratulations. We did it! We are here! 

And I am laughing and crying as are people all around us at reaching their goal at last. The energy here in the square is undeniable and everyone is so happy. I sink to the floor and lay for a while with my head on my pack and just look up at the cathedral. 

Even though I have seen plenty of pictures of the cathedral, it still did not prepare me for the majesty and stunning detail of this place. It may not be extraordinarily tall or big by modern standards… but in my mind and I think for most pilgrims, this cathedral is just about the most magnificent structure on earth… epitomizing all the pain and joy of our pilgrimage. 

We soak up the atmosphere and breathe in the joy of everyone around me. Three weeks of walking in all kinds of conditions has brought us here. Feeling jubilant and pretty damn proud of ourselves…  tempered by the sadness that’s it’s over. 

Steps today- 37,026

Kilometres today- 24.9

Flights climbed- 9

Temperature- 24°