“If I’m an advocate for anything, it’s to move. As far as you can, as much as you can. Across the ocean, or simply across the river. Walk in someone else’s shoes or at least eat their food.” Anthony Bourdain 

Day 19

When we leave this morning, we think it is a misty morning… maybe heat haze… but quickly realise the air is thick with smoke.

From the beginning, today is a hard day… compared to yesterday which was so beautiful it kept me distracted from my body. Not so much today. And many of our hottest days have at least started off cool, but today was warm from the outset. But we thank God for the shade this morning as we walk along the river, as I know that later there will be none. 

A few people have asked me if the Camino is hard… or how hard… and similar questions. And I would say definitely yes! It is hard. It is extremely tiring. It is hot… then a cold wind blows and it might even rain. The days can be very long… although we discussed at length before we left what we thought we would be capable of… not that I think you really know before you do it. You get cramps… you sleep in uncomfortable beds with bad pillows… or you don’t sleep because you are in pain or because there is a festival on with music playing until 4am etc etc etc. 

I have some issues with my body that were always potentially going to make my life difficult… arthritic hyper-mobile hips that sometimes move out of place (but they’ve pretty much behaved themselves)… a badly arthritic knee that has caused me a lot of trouble for years (but has also been very well behaved)… my (probably arthritic) ankles, which are not usually an issue, have been my biggest problem. One foot has been at times very painful (Dr Google says likely stress fractures from all the walking on hard surfaces). I can suffer at times with pretty full on swelling in my legs and feet and I had hikers rash (exercise induced vasculitis) that feels like my legs are burning. So reality is that for me… and most WOACAS… some degree of pain is your constant companion.

The first week was particularly hard… I really struggled at times… while at this stage Anne was travelling well, even saying she felt she could do more than our 15-20km a day that we had planned. I, on the other hand would limp in with barely the energy to shower and put clothes on again. I would even feel really cold and get the shakes when we finally stopped for the day… apparently a combination of dehydration, muscle fatigue and “after drop”. But the second week I really noticed I began to feel stronger… I could walk longer with no pain… and still feel good at the end of the day. Or maybe just cope with the pain better. I also realised that it did help to take medication… which was kind of difficult for someone who is  very anti Big Pharma and never takes anything. Third week feeling pretty good although the ankles are always painfull… you just learn how best to cope. Anne developed blisters, which is extremely common on the Camiño and it’s probably the main thing that makes people’s lives hell while they walk. It means she’s in constant pain even on shorter days… so blessed that we are generally not doing days nearly as long as most people on the Camiño.

But the thing is, when I started the Camino, I didn’t think it would be easy. And it’s hopefully not the focus of your attention… almost not important. They say that nothing good comes easy… and there are so many positives to outweigh the negatives… the awakening nature… the sound of the wind and the ocean… the birds or the soothing sound of flowing streams… wonderful conversations and connections, a cold glass of wine after a days walk… the strength and self-belief I have found in my body despite its issues of aging – these are the important things. So the Camino is not a walk in the park, but despite all its difficulties, it is still a most uplifting and worthwhile experience. Life-changing for some. 

We pass through a few small villages…

… with pretty houses and gardens

… through wine growing country with vineyards galore then uphill and through a eucalyptus forest… I am surprised how often we have seen both gum tree forests and eucalypts… so reminiscent of home.

There are a few opportunities to stop at cafe/restaurants and we stop briefly to have an ice cream before continuing on. There is a lot of road walking today which has never been my favourite but at least there is not a lot of traffic.

We pass a couple of small churches and go into a very busy service. It is hot and there is nowhere to sit and the singing is so off that we don’t stay. Later there is a small chapel that would normally give us a stamp in our credentials but it is Sunday and it’s closed. We may not get one at all today and we’re supposed to get two a day. Maybe later 🤷🏼‍♀️

Eventually we reach the estuary of the Rio de Arousa and follow along the coastline…

… before crossing a pedestrian bridge into the town of Vilanova de Arousa itself.

We find our accomodation… an apartment in a lovely stone building in the “old town” area and are thrilled when we find we can enter immediately rather than wait for the proposed 4.00pm check in. Our bags have not arrived so we rest a while hoping they will come soon but eventually give up and go out without a shower or change of clothes or shoes. 

We wander the pretty old town filled with churches, stone buildings and houses covered with flowers…

… and discover a gorgeous little vine covered courtyard restaurant off the street and eat some delicious food and drink the local Alberino wine that we love… and almost feel human again.

We like it so much we make a booking to come back tonight. When we get back to the apartment our bags have been delivered… always top marks to Top Santiago! 

We rest, shower and change and eventually head back out to see a little more of the town and have dinner.

Another big day tomorrow- we’re really on countdown now… our second last day coming up.

Steps today- 27,224

Kilometres today- 18.97

Flights climbed- 6

Temperature- 30°