“Walk your own path and let go of the path others have chosen for you. Love more. Forgive more. Embrace more. Live more intensely”- Pope Francis. 

Day 14

I feel really conflicted about today… definite highs and definite lows. 

We left early- our earliest yet. The early morning sunlight over the countryside is spectacular and it has rained overnight and everything is fresh.

We are definitely rural today, although still close to the coast, and I love it. Very quickly we are out among the vineyards and market gardens with fruit laden lemon trees…

… and the wildflowers are blazing their glory along our paths.

The countryside is dotted with pretty farmhouses and there are at times, beautiful views of the Vigo estuary. 

But as we walk, we can hear blasting in the background (not sure exactly what it is but we have heard it on several other days)… and it makes me think of people in war zones where that blasting would be the sound of bombs dropping. And I think of something I read the other day and it devastates me… 

“A Lament for the Weight of Reckless Power. 

When bombs drop it is not the powerful who run. It is not their children we see dust-covered, wandering streets with no names, searching for a home that no longer stands.”

I feel the weight of this… an ache of grief… the world feels a little untethered at the moment and while I have been trying to disconnect from all these things while we walk, it is virtually impossible with the current world environment. I am so aware of my privilege that allows me this time and opportunity when others live in war torn lands. 

Anyway… enough of that… back on track… back to our Camino 

When we began our journey two weeks ago, I was afraid of today. It was planned to be our biggest walk day- around 23km… and I really wasn’t sure if I would cope, considering my body’s issues. Within the first few days, I was even more doubtful after really struggling on much shorter distances. But I feel so much stronger now after 2 weeks of walking. I think of the book The Salt Path that I am reading at the moment and think of how Moth walked himself to health in some ways… and I feel like that is me… my body getting healthier and stronger day by day. 

But our day begins almost immediately with steep hills… up and down… which continues on and off all day. And just to make them even more difficult than yesterday, some of them are gravel, with loose stones… so easy to take a tumble… so very taxing on the body. And Anne struggles with the hills and is also struggling generally with achy legs and really sore feet including blisters… which makes the big day ahead really challenging. 

But it is so beautiful… the sun is shining and the birds are singing and we pass through such varied terrain. We walk across an ancient Roman bridge…

… along narrow lanes, dirt roads, stony paths, paved roads, ancient pathways, the leafy forest floor… and areas with boulders and tree roots to navigate…

… through farms and people’s backyards…

… and stunning forests where nature and stillness surround us (at times… more on that later).

The moment I step into the forest I feel my stress levels drop and all my senses are awakened… the light is soft and filtered through the trees and we inhale the scent of the forest… I don’t know what it is but it is wonderful.

There is birdsong and the sound of the gently flowing stream that accompanies us much of the afternoon.

And little waterfalls.

And flowers… always flowers… and I am forever inspired by the untamed beauty of wildflowers… growing wherever the winds of life take them. 

There are more and more little shrines along the way…

… and pilgrims have turned the waymarkers into a place to leave your stones. It is a Camino tradition that pilgrims pick up a pebble at home (or somewhere along the way), which they take with them on the Camino.  The pebble symbolizes the pilgrim’s burdens, sorrows, fears, wishes, even a loved one, and somewhere during the Camino, they put down the pebble, and with it, all that it symbolizes.  I love this idea and we have laid down several already.

So… what’s not to love, you ask? Why am I conflicted about such a wonderful day?

The hoards have made me seriously stressed. Our journey has been so peaceful most of the time up to this stage. But this morning there are SO many people on the trail- perhaps leaving early was not wise, although it’s because we have a big day ahead that it seemed a good idea. I knew this section became busy but I didn’t realise how busy or how it would destroy my feeling of peace. At times, there are people right behind me and I feel pushed to go faster and when the terrain is difficult it would be easy to fall. And there are people in front of us that restrict movement and slow us down. You can’t just go at your own pace anymore… and I find it all incredibly stressful. 

And Anne and I have often walked in silence… lost in contemplation of life and the beauty of the planet and appreciation for where we are. But the crowds are noisy, constantly chattering and laughing… and I know that is their right… and they’re having a great time (and that is good), but I wonder what their motivations for being here on a pilgrimage are. Not that it matters… but it kind of does. And I feel like a cranky old person when we stop in to visit a beautiful simple little chapel and the people standing at the door are making so much noise… and it feels like they are somehow trampling on holy ground… with no respect. And all day this “noise” has messed with my head. I’m not sure if that makes sense but it was very real for me.

We come across a big school group of teenagers doing the Camino as an excursion- 5 days… 100 km… 150 kids. We spend some time walking and talking with a couple of the teachers- my heroes of the day. What an amazing memory as a school camp… I think it’s fantastic… for them. Perhaps not so much for others on the trail. So many people. Too many people. 

Thankfully we stop for lunch at a kind of pub/cafe… well off the track and eat a HUGE sandwich…

… and we seem to lose the crowd… they have moved ahead of us and left peace and quiet once again in their wake. I am so relieved… and we breathe in the stillness. The forest is so alive.

Nothing clears the mind like being close to nature… always a source of delight for me. The afternoon is wonderful and mostly peaceful, but physically challenging. 

We finally arrive in Pontevedra old town at our apartment for the next two nights… as we have a perfectly timed rest day tomorrow.

The city is gorgeous… the interlocking lanes and plazas of the compact Old Town are closed to cars and are abuzz with shops, boutiques markets, cafes and tapas bars and beautiful churches, chapels and convents.

The squares are full of locals and pilgrims… chatting and eating and kids playing with the pigeons … it’s a really cool vibe.

After a shower and rest we head out for a little exploration, wine and a wonderful dinner at a Michelin suggested restaurant just around the corner. The most delicious octopus I’ve ever eaten… pretty sure we will return tomorrow night.

Day 15

We have a good lie-in today as it is a well earned rest day. So amazing to not have to rush around and knowing today we don’t have to walk. Once again we were hoping to have a massage somewhere (third time lucky) but it seems it’s not destined to happen- everywhere is booked out. Anne finds a cute Frida inspired cafe where we have brunch.

Our apartment actually has a washing machine, which we were thrilled about. And before we left last night, we started a wash. When we returned home, it was still running, and was making a lot of noise. After about four hours, we realized that it would keep running forever if we didn’t turn it off. We couldn’t drain or spin the washing machine, and it still looked dirty. So, we took everything out one by one, wringing it as much as we could, and put them in a bag to take to a laundromat to start over. Trying to figure out what was what while everything was in Spanish was a bit tricky. We didn’t realize until a local told us after our items were washed and in the dryer that these were the machines reserved for pet laundry. In hindsight the little pictures of dog bones and fish skeletons could have been a giveaway but not to our tired non- Spanish speaking minds.

With chores done, Anne decides to stay home for the rest of the day to rest her sore feet. I will do a little more exploration.

I wander the streets and try to visit some of the churches and convents…

… but nothing is open, except the sanctuary of the Virgin de la Peregrina (the virgin of the pilgrims) which is the centrepiece of this section of the city.

 The Church of Peregrina is a very distinctive rounded church, located on the Praza da Ferrería in the centre of town. Built in the 18th century, it is Portuguese looking in its style. The church is dedicated to the Pilgrim Virgin who is said to watch over those walking the Camino Portuguése. I climb of course to see the dome up closer.

And then it’s back to the square for Anne to see the church… to have a drink and to revisit the wonderful restaurant from last night before and early night. The sky is looking a little ominous and hopefully doesn’t bring rain while we walk tomorrow.

Rest day over, we set off again tomorrow but have several short days coming up as we head out on a new path.

Steps today (day 14)- 36,527

Kilometres today- 25.03

Flights climbed- 35

Temperature- 24°