After visiting the somehow fairy tale-like scenery of the medieval towns in Transylvania, we arrive in a Bucharest… a big unpolished modern grimy city… which is not generally my thing and seems a little bleak at first. So I immediately slip out alone as most of the others are going to the Romanian Palace of Parliament building for a tour. It is apparently the world’s largest civilian building with an administrative function… the world’s most expensive administrative building and the world’s heaviest building… none of which impress me or makes me want to see it. But each to their own. 

I am headed to the cobbled Old Town that I know will be much more my scene… where you can escape the gloomy grey communist atmosphere… the part of town where the streets are filled with history and beautiful architecture. The Old Town is the historic center of Bucharest and was once the court of Vlad the Impaler (yes- him again 🤷🏼‍♀️). It is also a popular tourist destination, as it is filled with restaurants, bars, cafes, and shops. 

I happen across the glass roofed Macca Vilacrosse Passage, filled with cozy cafes, restaurants, and shisha smoking places. I stop at a gorgeous cafe and sit in a turquoise velvet chair and have a drink, just soaking up the bohemian vibe… my kind of place. Pity about everyone smoking… one of the definite downsides to this part of Europe. 

I then rejoin the rest of the group for an organised city tour with a local guide, which started with shots of palinka (for those who can stomach it- not me 😂).

He then led us on a captivating walk through the old town… full of surprises… sharing the fascinating history of Bucharest from its early days to more recent events that have shaped the city caught between the influences of the West and the East. 

You cannot really talk about Bucharest apart from its rich and complicated history. The city was subject to devastating happenings throughout the years… in addition to several earthquakes, a fire started in one of the churches in Bucharest in 1847 and around 2,000 buildings caught fire leading to a third of the city being destroyed. The communist period and Ceauşescu regime also took its toll as it sought to erase all traces of the city’s history in the early 1980s, deciding that a fifth of Bucharest city was to be torn down to make way for Unirii Boulevard and the presidential palace. They demolished big parts of the old city center, including many priceless architectural buildings, among them, various churches (although seven churches were actually moved to keep the peace… the church of St. John is now tucked away in-between two big apartment buildings).

What you can see and visit as today’s historic center of Bucharest is apparently only about 20% of what it used to be. 

But while there are plenty of Brutalist grey square communist era buildings, these do not define the character of old town Bucharest… it is a city of contrasts and is known as the Paris of the east due to its architectural style and strong French influence and in parts of the old town you really do feel you could be walking in Paris… just a little bit different… a little more rough. 

We stop by the beautiful Stavropoleos church- beautifully artistic and perfect for finding a little tranquillity away from the chaos of the city… admiring the typical orthodox iconography covering the walls of the church and the cloister with its beautifully decorated arches. Very peaceful. 

Always a sucker for an umbrella street…

We finished in Revolution Square where there are still bullet holes in the walls of the buildings which act as a reminder of how far Bucharest has come in recent years.

While classical music is not really my thing, we have the opportunity for an evening of music with the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra, at the stunning Romanian Atheneum…

… the ornate domed circular concert hall with its massive marble columns, spiral staircases, amazing intricate ceiling, mosaics and decorative sculptures… and beautiful frescos.  Conducted by the brilliant Gabriel Bebeselea with the internationally famous pianist Bruce Liu gracing the stage as the soloist. Certainly not my usual night out but the venue was amazing and I actually particularly enjoyed the pianist (although two hours sitting in a fold down, dicky seat with no back was a bit much).

Next morning before we head off again, I go out Orthodox Church hunting. I just love these churches with their deep spiritual beauty, high ceilings, chandeliers and decorative borders, ornate gold alters and crosses and painted iconography covering the walls. I think I will do a little blog just on the stunning churches of Bucharest as I enjoyed them so much.

I didn’t realise that Saturday mornings is when they have their services… and so enjoy beautiful chanting at several I visit while I am mesmerised by the stunning iconography. 

I wander through Cismigiu Gardens… a beautiful atmospheric spot…

… before heading back to the hotel to move on again. Country number 55 coming up. 

So, in the end, I’ve decided that I really like Bucharest despite its gritty exterior… even because of it. The people have a lot of heart and passion and you can feel the cities modern, progressive vibe mixed with its incredible history and it’s all part of its charm. The city overflows with character with its continuous clash of architectural styles and combination of cobbled streets, quirky statues…

… Orthodox churches, Art Nouveau palazzos, Communist megalomania and Parisian feel. The communist era buildings were a reminder to me of how lucky we are living in Australia, so far removed from war, revolution or dictatorship.