I remember years ago reading the books Left Behind- the entertaining series about the rapture and end of the world loosely based on the book of Revelation which was written by the apostle John while living in exile on the island of Patmos. 

So, Patmos, is sometimes called the Isle of St John or the Island of Revelation… and is a significant pilgrimage site. It is targeted by thousands of Christians who visit to see many of its churches and hermitages, but above all, to see the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian and the Holy Cave of the Apocalypse.

So, soon after arrival we decided to take the local bus up to Chora to explore the fortress like monastery dedicated to the saint, and the whitewashed houses on the streets below it. Only when we got to the monastery, it wasn’t open. We decided to wander anyway… and it was just the weirdest thing. There was not a soul around in the whole town… and it felt like literally every other person except us had been raptured and we’d been left behind. 

The island of Patmos looks like a picture-perfect postcard of an idyllic Greek island- especially in the beautiful town of Chora which has the second most expensive real estate in Greece… and I can understand why. White washed houses and narrow cobbled streets fill this town set high above sea level overlooking an impressive sprawl of bays. It has it all! Wow!

Just strolling along the car-free maze of tiny alleyways…

… through vaulted archways… filled with Byzantine mysticism… covered passageways with gorgeous little nooks and details…

… cute and interesting shops…

… and past dazzlingly white and mostly immaculately maintained impressive houses with colourful shutters, makes you feel like you could be in the 16th or 17th century- which is when many of them were built. Small, charming and peaceful… where a rare mystical silence presides… especially because there was no people anywhere. This is in some ways a great bonus for me as usually I am waiting for ages trying to take photos with minimal or no people in them. But it just felt really strange.

We actually got lost in the cobbled streets but soon enough stumbled on the most charming but completely deserted little square, most likely a little bubble of busyness in open times. Cute traditional tavernas, colourful cocktail bars and a handful of elegant restaurants and boutiques comprise the social scene of the tiny town… when there are people there. 

But we wandered the stunning and very chic town in spooky silence.

On the edge of town we walked to the three ancient restored windmills (I have a bit of a thing about windmills).

We did manage to make it back when everything was open and surprisingly the town was still almost deserted… despite the few tour groups at the monastery. 

Perched right at the top of town, where it’s been since the 11th century, Chora’s crowning glory… the Byzantine castle and monastery dedicated to St. John, is still the home of monks today. 

Within the monastery, the various chapels and monastic cells reveal the deep, religious significance of Patmos.

There’s also a museum with rare Byzantine icons and historical artefacts (several of which I would have been very happy to find a place for in my home).

There are tall church bells, domed corridors and pebbled courtyards.

But the most lasting memory will probably still be the panoramic view from every vantage point. 

Located pretty close to the monastery and considered one of the most sacred places in the Christian world is the Cave of the Apocalypse where St John is said to have heard the voice of God, had prophetic visions of the Apocalypse and written the Book of Revelations. Inside the narrow cave, there is a magnificent rock with a triple crack on the solid rock, thought to be made by God when he spoke to Saint John.

We are staying in Skala and, even though the setting is not as unique as Chora’s, we found it to be a lively seaside village with lots of tavernas, cafes and boutiques in its squares and streets… and full of life all hours of the day.

And I finally got to eat the grilled octopus I had been hanging out for.

Our boutique hotel apartment… the Patmos Eye… is stunning! It simply did its magic and we always ended up glued to the verandah, amazed by the amazing view.  

We decide to do a boat cruise to a group of neighbouring islands we heard about in Leros but were unable to visit. The Greek Islands have all been kissed by Mother Nature… but what a sensational day…  a feast for the eyes… sun-drenched and plentiful.  These Islands are heavenly… full of unspoiled beaches, rocky islets, turquoise-coloured beaches, outstanding crystal clear water and traditional Greek villages. The highlight could have been the crystalline beach of Tiganakia… where the colour of the water rivals the Maldives.

Or was it Makronisi with beautiful rock formations and caves where the water literally seemed to be luminous. I desperately wanted a waterproof camera to capture the amazing colour.

But I think my favourite was the “white” island Aspronisi. It rises from the sea as a high white bare rock with some low shrubs and a breathtaking and unspoiled beach of white rocks…

… with hundreds of stone towers made by previous visitors, surrounded by turquoise waters.

These places are all like the backdrops from my dreams and although I’m not usually much of a swimmer, I couldn’t keep out of the water.

Everywhere was amazing including our lunch spot on Arki island where we ate in one of the lovely rustic traditional tavernas on the beach, and savoured some delicious tender goat for lunch. Sensational memorable and long day.

Everywhere we go or look there are cute little churches and miniature chapels… on rocks, in the mountains… by the sea… everywhere! It is claimed that for the size of the island, there are more churches here than anywhere else in the world. And I’d believe it!

We had a few stressful and tense moments driving a hire car to be able to get to some of the more inaccessible sights. Poor Johnny (as Chrissy or I won’t drive)… with us getting lost and pretty stuck in tiny streets with no room to manoeuvre… or needing to reverse on a cliffs edge. At one stage we nearly drove down some stairs that we didn’t realise were there. That’s why I will never drive in Europe!  Well done Johnny! 

We decide to go to the recommended ‘best beach on Patmos’, Psili Amos. To many, this small paradise remains elusive as the only way reach it is by private boat or trekking… and we chose the latter. 

On the way we briefly stopped at the rustic Petra beach, with the sound of goat bells tinkling on the hills opposite… to see the stone of Kalikatsou… a big rock connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land.

We then head out on a very rocky but well-trotted donkey track, over the cliff top hills… with extraordinarily barren but beautiful terrain…

… via a few stunning azure blue bays…

… to the picturesque cove of Psili Amos…

… with calm clear water, pure golden sand (unusual for a Greek island) and sweeping dunes, with many tamarisk trees providing shade. The lone taverna is the only sign of civilisation.   

The goat stew had been recommended (we had noticed the goats all around the surrounding mountains as we walked) however, there was none left. But the food was amazingly well cooked with fresh ingredients. Very traditional. And the drinks were cold. 

Despite being the busiest beach we visited, its unique character and tranquility persist, somehow avoiding the beachside hustle and bustle. The epitome of a rustic Greek island experience.

Patmos was a true “revelation”… not what we expected at all. We came thinking we’d find a small rustic island, but instead its found a stunning spiritually mystic island with a Cycladic chic sophisticated air.