The colours of our world have changed from the dry browness of Cappadocia to the lush greenness of the Black Sea region… one of the more untouched parts of Turkey. I knew that our magical few days in Cappadocia would be a hard act to follow… that comparison is the thief of joy… but I had a bad attitude when we arrived and felt that there was little to redeem the city of Trabzon except that it is supposedly the gateway to a beautiful region. Realistically, when people come to Trabzon, it is not to see Trabzon. 

A city tour has been arranged with our guide who is googly eyed, and has nicotine-stained mis-shaped teeth. We don’t know where to look… and to make it worse, I am left uninspired, if not completely bored.

I was happy to head back to our hotel… except that the hotel that our private tour organizer had placed us in was on the outskirts of town, with nothing in the vicinity including restaurants. Not happy Jan (I know Jade, I sound like a brat!)

At least it could only improve from here… and it did. We woke to a stunning blue sky and headed off with our new gorgeous guide Kaan to the ancient 4th century Sumela Monastery… which seems to be glued on the side of a sheer mountain cliff face nearly 4000 feet above the lush green forest (yes, you have to walk all the way up on hundreds of rather slippery steps). A magnificent sight. 

This Orthodox monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary has a long history and has undergone many changes.

Today, it’s a museum… and we explored its ancient chapels, chambers and kitchens… and it’s most prominent structure, the Rock Church that features biblical frescoes of Christ and the Virgin Mary (many defaced by stupid tourists).

Crazy to think about how building this amazing structure on a cliff was even possible all those years ago. 

We took a leisurely stroll back down the mountain… breathing in the fresh forest air… following the course of the river flowing down through the forest… gurgling over rocks and glittering from the spray of several small waterfalls fed by an abundance of rainfall… as this area is the wettest in all of turkey with rainfall 9 out of 12 months of the year. But thankfully not today!

After a delicious meal at a local fish farm, we headed to the Karaca Cave. This unique masterpiece of nature was meticulously crafted over millions of years but only discovered in 1960 and opened to the public in 1996. Taking a step into the cave you feel like you’ve journeyed to the centre of the earth…

… greeted by many travertines, stalactites, stalagmites, columns, dripstone pools, curtain drop stones and cave flowers (whatever they are)…

… all natural works of art that continue to evolve in different sizes, shapes, and colours… that transport you to a magical world. Standing mesmerized and awestruck, we are reminded yet again of our insignificance in the face of nature. 

On our way back to the hotel we stop for a quick look around the city centre and our disappointment in where our hotel is located is confirmed. Why are we not staying in the city centre which is bustling with people, restaurants and cafes? We stop for tea and baklava (the best yet) and wish we could swap hotels. 

The following day we head off to the romantic Lake Uzungol… sadly expecting some of that rain that the area is renowned for… leaving early, hoping to get a few hours before it sets in. The picturesque village of Uzungol is a stunning destination known for its cool, clean air, lush green landscapes (due to the heavy rainfall)…

…and calm, reflective waters…

… lying serenely in a valley surrounded by majestic mountains…

… a landscape that is said to resemble Switzerland, with its rolling hills, charming wooden Swiss-style chalets, waterfalls, and fat cows that greet you on your way to the shallow lake surrounded by woods. Except that the valley is dominated by the two minarets of the mosque standing on the edge of the lake. Definitely not Switzerland! 

We strolled the lake taking in the tranquility before having tea and baklava at one of the many mountainside restaurants with the perfect vantage point to take in the epic beauty of the lake and its surrounding mountains from above.

And as carnival-style attractions and staged photos seem to be a popular thing to do in Uzungöl and surrounds, we figure “when in Rome”…

We continue driving to higher and higher altitudes towards the Seven Lakes… through the mountains covered by forests with rushing rivers and streams, cascading waterfalls… and apparently bears.

It now feels like Canada instead of Switzerland except… for the little roadside stalls selling handmade shawls and honey. The winding road provides stunning views of the valley although the rain has started and temperature has dropped substantially.

As we climb higher, treeless alpine pastures now surround us, replacing the pine and cypress forests… and it feels like we have arrived in Scotland (once again, except for the mosques).

And the fog has descended with the rain and looks like it’s not leaving in a hurry.

We arrive at the first lake… and no lake! At least not that we can see. A complete whiteout.

Disappointing but at this stage there is no point continuing, so we head back towards Trabzon for our final night and say goodbye to our lovely guide Kaan.

A new adventure awaits tomorrow… what we have talked about for years and what every other part of our Turkey trip has been planned around… and I am excited!