I visited Istanbul years ago and remember it to be a magical city where east meets west… vibrant, exotic, friendly, cheap, full of historical sights, museums, and so many cafes, restaurants and cats. Thousands of cats, apparently owned by no-one, looked after by everyone. It is still all of those things… except cheap!

It’s a fascinating metropolis that bewitches travellers with its stylish streets… unique blend of cultures, history and modernity… celebrated for its rich tapestry of art, vibrant music scene, and breath taking views from every angle. It’s a city that awakens all your senses. 

We wandered for several hours on our first day… jet-lagged and uninspired…

… although we did make it to the Basilica Cistern. We descended below the streets of Sultanahmet into a majestic underground reservoir which dates back to the 6th century. Also called the Sunken Palace, it is the largest cistern from Istanbul’s Byzantine era still standing. Its symmetry and sheer grandeur of conception were quite breathtaking! 

Afterwards, we settled in for lunch in an obvious tourist trap. As seasoned travellers we should have known better (but jet lag) and had an awful bland meal at an exorbitant price and then made the wise decision to head back to our hotel (via that ridiculously steep hill again) to rest.

Headed out again later with more of a spring in our step… had a delicious dinner virtually at the foot of the iconic Galata tower… and later wandered the crowded and vibrant cobbled streets and pretty narrow lanes before heading back for the night. 

I woke early and wandered in the glow of the morning light to watch the sunrise over the Bosphorus before heading out again with the boys.

Our plan for the day was to investigate Balat, the centre of modern bohemia in Istanbul… and as I had seen lots of pictures on Pinterest, I was looking forward to this one. While the neighborhood was historically considered the Jewish Quarter, it’s actually a mosaic of Jewish, Christian, Orthodox, and Muslim communities that co-exist peacefully today. 

After some confusion with transport options, we made it and I was immediately mesmerised. Steep slanted cobblestone streets were surrounded with vibrant facades, so many funky cafes, restaurants, and design shops.

This old district filled with beautiful colored wooden houses and cafes… instant feel-good vibes for a colour obsessed old hippy like me! 

This techno-colored cafe drew a big crowd with its rainbow staircase and so many patterns, bits and bobs along the outside of the cafe, and yet somehow it is all effortlessly pulled together. My kind of place! 

Walked up to the Kariye Mosque/Khora church. Originally built as the Church of the Holy Savior during the Byzantine era and converted to a mosque during the Ottoman rule of Istanbul, Khora Church is now a museum with gorgeous colourful, well-preserved frescoes and mosaics.

Back to Galata for another afternoon nap before once again wandering down the narrow cobbled streets cascading down to the vibrant and cool neighbourhood of Karakoy. The neighbourhood is OLD but ALIVE. Age-old Byzantine and Ottoman buildings are now home to trendy cafes, boutique shops, and art galleries, while others still house old-school bakeries, corner shops or apartments.

The street art and unpretentious vibes give Karaköy a distinct artistic and bohemian atmosphere. I loved the random whimsical umbrellas over our little cocktail bar…

… and our little Italian dinner spot with the incredible view of one of the many local mosques (complete with very loud call to prayer). 

Eighteen kilometres walked today… and an early start tomorrow as we head off on the next (and perhaps most exciting) adventure…

Watch this space!