Provence is beguilingly romantic for some reason. Everything is sun-kissed. It is so beautiful that artists like Renoir, Chagall, Cezanne and Picasso flocked there to paint its landscapes. They adored the sun-drenched light, which Matisse described as ‘soft and tender, despite its brilliance.’ Think lavender-infused chocolates, rose ice cream, crisp wines, mouthwatering-cheese, and the kind of olives Anne could eat all day (not me), basking under the warm Provence sun. The name of Provence has magic in its very syllables. And here we are!

Provence casts its spell on you long before you even set foot on its soil and planning a trip through this countryside is no easy task. It is awash with idyllic charm… everything from the architecture to the landscape is captivating… dotted amongst the undulating landscape there are so many tiny and ancient stone towns, sitting on hills with stunning views of the surrounding countryside… and many still have castles and towers. How can we possibly see them all? Each town, I have no doubt has something special… which ones do I choose and how do we see more than one in a day when we are not driving. At least using the railways to some extent gives me no choice but to slow down so as not to lose the relaxation and slow pace of life that Provence offers.

There is no better way to enjoy the myriad of wonders of the region than leisurely dalliances amongst the hill towns, quiet days exploring villages and evenings enjoying the good food and wine Provence is so well famed for. It is always tempting to linger… but my FOMO kicks in and my constant search for another perfect village… another perfect picture keeps me moving. Rejuvenating yet adventurous is my hope… but I know my gauge is not like everyone else’s.

We have chosen to stay in Aix-en-Provence for the week… not ideally where I would have liked, but without a car, we needed to be somewhere central to be able to get around. But more on this place later.

So… randomly a couple of years ago I had the Tour de France on the TV and I noticed them cycling through a stunning town. I had never seen pictures of this place before… so I did a little research and came up with the town of Sisteron… a sublime medieval village known as the pearl of Haute Provence! Draped chaotically between two steep cliffs along the banks of the Durance River, this place looked awesome and so I decided to visit. Anne chose to stay home again for a more restful day than I would offer and to explore Aix a little more, so I hopped on the train (which amazingly was direct)… passed beautiful Provençal scenery filled with the vineyards it is so famous for…

… to spend the day in this village.

The historic centre of Sisteron is quite big but very picturesque with a warren of streets and alleys scattered with beautiful old houses, arched passageways…

… stairways…

… a stunning Clock Tower with its wrought-iron campanile…

… little squares decorated with charming fountains and andrônes (covered passages that thread their way under the houses).

And lots of flowers, which I had really missed in the south of France. I had been taken by surprise at the cold temperature when I arrived as it’s been so hot everywhere else… maybe that is why the flowers were so prolific here… as they like the cooler weather.

… but whatever the reason, I soaked them up. There are also quite a few cafés, restaurants, and boutiques- although being a Sunday, it was very quiet and everything was closed bedsides a couple of restaurants.

I visited the Romanesque Notre-Dame-des-Pommiers cathedral, which we usually do everywhere we go… and it was rather austere and unembellished compared to most we have seen although it is one of the largest in Provence.

But this is not a touristy town… there is not the attention to detail that there might be in the more touristic places. Most of the buildings seem unpainted- and there is none of the colour of many of the towns we have been in… but it feels totally authentic and I love being away from the tourists crowds. This is perhaps the first place like this on our trip.

The allure of the citadel of course drew me in… or should I say up! Gloriously perched on a rock… built in the 11th century and remodelled in the 13th, 16th and 19th centuries… it dominates the town, with its bastions deployed both in the north and south. Henry IV liked to say it was “the most powerful stronghold of his kingdom”.

In the mid nineteenth century, a magnificent underground staircase connecting the fortress to the city was carved into the rock. Amazing!

So striking is the view once at the top that nobody could be disappointed with 150kms of the French countryside unfolding from one end of the skyline to the other…

… and an extraordinary view of the maze of stairs, vaulted streets and old red tiled roofs of the village below all the way to the houses on the riverbank.

Between heaven and rock, Our Lady of the Castle chapel bathes you in the light of seven stained glass windows… with varied roles through history from its original purpose as a chapel to a dungeon and a prison before being nearly destroyed by the allied bombing in 1944 (I really find it hard to imagine this place being bombed… any place for that matter but a small town in Provence… I just can’t get my head around it). Today it hosts some prestigious exhibits and holds a bookshop. Once a year a mass is celebrated in memory of war victims. Beautiful!

There was even an outdoor theatre here which every summer, hosts a prestigious cultural event: the “Nights of the Citadel”, the first and oldest festival in Provence. Music, theater, and dance take place and enchant the old walls… which I imagine would be quite spectacular!

Apparently by nightfall, the citadel enchants with its illuminations and has twice been awarded 1st National Prize in a lighting Competition – Prix des Rubans du Patrimoine. Would love to have seen this beautiful town all lit up… maybe another time 🤷🏼‍♀️

After coming back down to earth from the citadelle, I ate some lunch at a little restaurant overlooking the river…

… and then walked over the bridge to get a view from the other side… where you can see the Citadelle right at the top.

I decided to walk down to the little church I had noticed while looking at the spectacular view from the top… only when I arrived I realised St-Dominique cloister (15th century) was a ruin with no access inside…

… but apparently classified as a historical monument and hosts cultural events. Such a beautiful peaceful atmosphere filled with birdsong, butterflies and wildflowers.

Loved this place… a little off the beaten track… with its heritage, its beauty, its spectacular views and colourful flowers and it’s extraordinary sunshine and light.